I had Russians last year they can be a very good bee line, honestly I like most any of the cold weather bee lines so far. Thanks for sharing out time with us, Blessed Days...
There was suppose to be chapters on this video so you can skip around. Is anyone seeing chapters? Also the bee sting is at about the 8:30 mark. Lol no biggy, just I did finally get stung. And theres a summary about the 11:30 mark
Good video. The USDA did a study on laying workers and found they could be successfully requeened with queen cells about 60% of the time. I haven't tried it yet, but filed it away as something to try. www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publication/?seqNo115=186563
I haven't had success requeening. But if it does take, do you know if the drone cells continue to develop in the worker comb? Does it destroy it? Some folks say if a queen takes, the nest will remove all that drone brood
If your into drone comb, I always use 2 for each 10 frame deep. But the reason I use it is mainly as a mite magnet. Otherwise just use drawn comb. Your queen will start laying like she just started a new nest immediately.
I did this in this year but right before the flow started i combined both brood boxes and placed my honey supers on top. I harvested 545 lbs of honey from 6 colonies. This method increased the number of bees which increased the amount of honey i got.
My struggle is that manipulations only work in that fine window when bees are expanding. Pre spring and in the flower shortage. I can only plan for the next one and wait. Might be next year when the opportunity arrives.😢
There is still her pheromones going up there, but they are not as strong now. Remember that Queen Mandibular Pheromones are transferred with the bees antennae. And normally the nurse bees are all around the queen. So when they are in the same box as the queen, the pheromones are that much stronger. Then the same interaction happens to the Queen. Since she is always completely surrounded by nurse bees and open brood, once all that moves 2 chambers up, it just really weakened the amount of pheromone shes use to having. Like smelling bacon cooking when you first wake up, then when you walk in the kitchen! 😁😁😁
@strutt01 yeah wasps and hornets are crazy! But I looked at it more and think you're actually right. The black on its butt matches more with the European hornet.
What is going to produce more moisture inside of a hive? A: Clustered bees with capped over honey B: Clustered bees with open frames of nectar(nectar being comprised of 75% moisture) Now that you know the real culprit of high levels of moisture inside of a hive. Now you can deal with it appropriately.
Location is everything. I tried some insulated and one non insulated last year and they all survived and did fine. The insulated ones used less honey for the most part. I would think in arid areas keeping the moisture in could be beneficial but we are very humid here. I’ll probably insulate some again and continue comparing out of curiosity. Our Broodminder sensors show they maintain the humidity at a rather steady level if it’s hot or cold or anywhere in between.
@BrianCooper901 * Some say they get less fly time, so slower growing. Due to not sensing the sun as quickly. I have some wrapped year round with 2" insulation... nothing jumps out at me as life changing😢
I tried this for the first time this year. Problem I had was that the bees started back-filling the top brood box with honey, so after 21 days, I had a Langstroth brood box weighing 30Kg at chest height. Nearly killed me. And my spinner won't take the large brood frames, so I'm stuck with all that honey on brood frames. I'm holding it over for winter feed.
60-70 lbs. of honey is pretty good for a 10 frame deep in 21 days. I tend to see the boxes underneath fill up after they fill that top box. Hope the next box is more full. It will be easier to pull.
Since theres alot of nectar in that upper chamber, I would set up a robbing station and get it back into your hives right away. 70 lbs. of nectar and honey you don't want to ferment. And you retain your useful honey production. It might take them a few days to get it back into the hive, But it's probably the easiest foraging they have right now.
00:03:09 switch to large cell in fall for fat body winter bees? Small cell spring to fall for healthier bees? 😂 00:15:35 sound was covered upby the xxxxx😂
I did the Demarre on my hives and had great results. Matter of fact I pulled 545 lbs this year. The Demarre split increased the amount of bees in the hive resulting in more foragers
I made a couple newer updated videos on it recently. One for swarm control and the other for hive strength. It's helped me in keeping bees in every way. I love it. The bee keepers back then were a lot sharper than the folks we have running things today.
This combine method makes sense and I'll try it. Also I did pick up on The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly theme, and possible the Banana Spits theme. -Darren
Clearly A. Clearly B. And you left out a bunch of answers: D) reduce propolized lid lockdown, E) offer spacing so wind can get under the telescoping lid & blow it off, F) confuse beekeepers with things like which side is up, where's the notch, where did I put it...??!, G) give termites & rot one more place to work, H) a spot to put a feeding jar with minimized robbing opportunities (hey, got one good point at least). And I'll support C begrudgingly, as a space for bees to build even more burr comb because over the top of every frame below isn't enough? In case you didn't guess, I don't like telescoping covers. I actually have my own version of a top entrance, but that's another discussion.
I like your answer. Youve had the same experience I've had. Lol. I won't use them in the summer time. But in the winter I use them to direct moisture to the front wall of the hive. Other than that though, I don't use them often.
It reminds me of if they came out for a vaccine tracheal mites. Like, sure? But the problem is not huge at the moment. Greenlight Biosciences are coming out with a Varroa and Tropi vaccine. That peaks my interest. I am a vaccine moderate, someone in the center.
@@strutt01Same on Tropi. Two things to keep in mind its looking like Varroa resistance like uncapping and sometimes pulling brood out are the same mechanisms Apis Cerana has to Tropi. Most of the European Honeybee colonies are in Asian countries with Tropi, and beekeepuing continues with decent survival rates. Also, if you speak to beekeepers in Northern china Tropi is only an issue in the summer but formic does the trick.
@@jf7654 I think the combination of Tropi and Cerana is why China sells all manipulated honey. Like between having Cerana being a low honey producing bee, then constantly having to split hives because of Tropi. China simply cannot make any serious amounts of honey. They literally have to mix what little honey they have with sugar honey. But thats pure speculation. It makes the most sense to me.
So do you want to time it so that the main nectar flow hits right about the same time most of the brood in the top box has hatched and are of prime foraging age? The main flow here where I'm at in NC is also tulip poplar and ours starts April 20, along with blackberry, so I'm trying to formulate a mental plan of when I'd time it.
Yes try to. I always try for 30 days, that way the upper brood chamber has emerged and there's probably a few frames emerged from the new brood chamber. You'll probably be right in the middle of the flow when the highest bee numbers are there.
It's just the feeder I use. It's the old school hive top Dadant alot of people don't like because it will drown alot of bees if you don't address it's issue. I made 3 videos about it. 1 for drowning mod 2 for trickle feed mod 3 using as an open feeder And if your into quilt boxes, it's good for that too. ru-vid.com/group/PLYxaWs6s7c_Ax0Y2VfGBl1MtwgqFA27hy&si=ngvrdF2GvtUVuSyJ
Is there a way to encourage smaller cells? I have heard smaller cells=smaller bees=stunted or unhealthy. Older comb is like re-waxed by them therefore smaller cells? Can that be Detrimental at all? Nice to see you have nice bees! Great videos man! Great looking hound, too~!
Thank You Gary, I appreciate that. With small cell , they use to make plastic foundation. But I think the market dropped off for it. And yes the older brood comb gets the more cacoons it has in it and the smaller the cells get. The smaller the bees get the smaller the cells they build. They still make wax foundation but I'm more apt to just let the bees make their own since they are already smaller in size. Healthwise I think the number of bees offset the size of the bee. Killer bees are like super soldiers, they are still apis malifera, they are small cell size and they need nothing from us to live. And I have very few issues with my bees. The main issue would just be queens getting old or failing somehow.
@@strutt01 right on thanks man. I have only just started keeping bees and theres a lot to learn. I am using wax/wire foundation this year hoping to quit doing that next year.
Keep those hives level from left to right, wire the frames well and you'll really appreciate them. I'd tilt your hives forward too so the bees can remove debris easier. I'm not certain but I think the bees draw the comb faster without foundation anyways.
How cold is tooo cold? Man I really like your demonstrations they are super simple. I am starting to get this demaree method thanks to you! Hello from Oregon.
Oregon and Washington state reminds me of that old t.v. show Big Ben!!! We use to love that!!! 😁😁😁 And Thanks for the compliments, I really hope this helps. With colder temperatures I would try to play it safe on my first few Demarees and that way you'll start to notice. 1. Hive strength 2. If you get chilled brood 3. Are drones present yet? That could be a good way to time your first Demarees. And if the hive would abandon their Queen, you'll have alot of cells to make a new one. And I promise if your first few Demarees are successful, you'll start to swear by them.
