Question for @TheMonty1994, i have looked into the coolant recommend according to the manual, it says it has to be high quality ethylene glycol, which would be Silkolene Mag Cool, instead of the one you used in this video which is based on propylene glycol. Although the one you use is stronger it is prone to be more aggressive and could wear rubber faster.
@@TheMonty1994 Sure i got that from the video, and im sure it works fine. Its just isn't what the manual says it should use and the dealership dont read the small letters in the manual.
Wake up, it’s the empty container to put the old coolant into. Come on dude, wtf ! 😂😂 I’ve got five bikes, most of them classics, they use mineral oil.
@@TheMonty1994 I wish. I posted this question in another vlog: one guy said poke a stick, a belt , etc thru the spokes of the rear wheel, step on either side of the belt or stick,while bike on center stand, then lift the rear.
I glued the ignition timing retarder weights so they'd keep stuck in the low rev postion. Got my C50 way past the 40km/h mark easypeasy. Next step would be a 70cc kit ...
Fine looking bike. Takes away slightly from enjoyment riding bike when there is a issue, even if minor. Could I ask, is this slight oil leak from a weep hole? Interesting clip, could hear your disappointment when you slipped new o ring and wasnt tight fit as you would expect. The joys getting down and dirty with your bike.
I’m not sure where the leak was from, but I would guess it’s from the weep hole. It now leaks less than it did, but can still leave an oily mark on a rag if you have a wipe around near the filter. It’s not a big issue, if you use the bike as a daily commuter you may not even notice, as many don’t, but if you’re OCD like me and wash the bike after every few rides it’s a bit frustrating. Modern bikes just shouldn’t have this issue.
@@TheMonty1994 looks in show room condition. Like the tailtidy and exhaust you have fitted. The weep hole is doing it's intended job, telling you there is a issue with the seal. Not good to read that still weeping even after you carrier out the repairs.
Useless video. For starters he's doing it from the wrong side, engine should be warm? Exhaust will be hot!! Easier from left hand side. Then the oil. What SAE? Honda say 20/50, what is Halfords motorcycle oil? Honda say different grade in winter/colder climates. If you are going to make these videos then don't leave half the important stiff out, okay...?
Hello, is it possible to do a video for basic maintenance, like where to put oil, in which parts I mean like from gas line or how to say in English or what is good to check? I am newbie and got this bike for a year, would be good to learn more things and your video is amazing. thank you in advance
Thank you for sharing. I watched the full video and seems it is not necessary to drain the coolant...it seems can remove the full set (your showing in the thumbnail of this video) without removing the tubes or the rubber pipe or the hose then replace the o-ring. How do you think? Appreciate the feedback. Thank you in advance.
Someone else has mentioned doing it that way. I was concerned about air being caught in the system and then having to drain and refill anyway, but if others say it’s been done successfully, there’s no reason for me to doubt them. It would certainly make the process easier.
Thank you for watching the video. I'm having the same symptoms, so I'd like to follow along to solve it. If it doesn't work after replacing the o-ring, I wonder if I should replace the water pump. I am curious about the results after replacing the water pump in winter??
Ahh, sorry mate, got ya. Works as overflow when fluid expands when engine is hot. If it’s a large amount it may have air in the system, especially if you’ve had coolant changed. Keep your eye on the coolant level sight and top up if necessary.
also have the same problem, when I start driving, antifreeze leaks through the hose near the footboard, give me some advice, how did you solve this problem?
My Good Friend Adrian Lawton in Stroud Gloucestershire owned a Talbot Express 2.5 Diesel Minibus and it Gave Adrian Shit loads of Trouble Breaking Down All the Time when he Worked for Cotswold Experience. I Remember Adrian Told Me he Brought a Talbot Express 1.0 Petrol Unleaded S.W.B Panel Van for Spares / Bits N Pieces To Take off All the Good Parts go on his Talbot Express Minibus. I’ve Been in Adrian Lawton’s Talbot Express Minibus loads of Times from Stroud Bus Station to Nails-worth Bus Station to walk to Ruskin Mill Further Education College in Mill Bottom Old Bristol Rd
I’ve Always Wanted To Own All of These Talbot Express / Fiat Ducato / Citroen C25 Vans In Mk1 & Mk2 because i ❤ Them to Death. All the Petrol Unleaded & Diesel’s / Turbo Diesel’s I’ve Always wanted to own. Then The Fiat Ducato / Peugeot Boxer / Citroen Relay Vans 2nd & 3rd Generation I’ve Also Wanted To Own As Well in Petrol Unleaded & Turbo Diesel HDI’s.
Makes me wonder if it’s not the O ring’s fault if the new one is just as loose. Maybe the machining on the water pump is slightly out of tolerance and needs to be replaced?
I know people that have now swapped the water pump twice and the problem still remains. Mines better than it was and now only weeps slightly, so I’m going to live with it.
Nice one mate...and you are correct it may be simple for most but not everyone has years of experience. Good on you. Thanks for the video enjoy the rides...
Yes, it still leaks, but is now very minor, it doesn’t even form a drip. I was going to replace the water pump, but I now know of people that have changed the water pump twice and it still leaks, so I think I’m just going to live with it.
Other than adding a couple of drops of oil under the small screw in the eyelet, not really. If you want less of a pogo effect, you can upgrade with some CG125 shocks, or something aftermarket of a similar length. Personally I think the bouncy squeak is all part of the fun ! 😂
Great video ? Are you stupid or something ? Bull shit bla bla bla video, it s a useless nonsense. Firat of all, if you do a video about oil change, you show which one of the two nuts is the oil drain nut, this is the most important part of the job. Nobody gives a shit about what was your first bike and when you did shit last christmas. Absolutely crap video.
1st of all you start every oil change by checking the oil and leaving the plug/dipstick out so when you pull the drain plug out you have air going in for a nice straight flow.
If you want it really low, the best thing is to use solid bar instead of the spring, so it’s a hard tail. Not very comfortable, but you can get a few mm of clearance without the worry of it rubbing.
Thanks for this video finally got the things apart 21mm spanner on mine.. do you know if dampers are ment to have any resistance? mine I can move up and down like a slide with no resistance
Can you do a video about the battery? Right now I’m trying to find my old battery but thinking my family lost it😵💫 it had the black negative wire on it so now I gotta look for one 😵💫
Try to put air in the tire today but air is escaping from somewhere (still don’t know yet) your vid made is easier to take it off no doubt about that thank you👍🏻I’ll start working on it tomorrow morning✨
Oil o'ring.... probably pinched on initial assembly... (I'm at 15secs into video - I'll watch rest now) at 6:15 or so I can see the o'ring looks chaffed nearest your left hand.
Thanks for the vid! Did this today and actually did without draining the coolant, just removed the pump and replaced the o ring with some silicone gasket maker for high temps as well.
@@TheMonty1994 Kept the drain bolt on and only unscrewed the bolts holding it into the engine case. Did the replacement while holding the water pump with hoses attached next to the bike. Hopefully I was able to describe what I did. Unfortunately I found the drop of oil there again after riding about 100 miles. :(. It's a significantly smaller drop, however. Not sure what the next step will be.
@@TheMonty1994 Please keep us updated with a video or pinned comment! It would be much appreciated. It's such a shame Honda hasn't acknowledged this. I guess it's not common enough but it's certainly common enough for us to be able to find various amounts of people with the same issue.
@@TheMonty1994 I changed the entire waterpump at 3500 miles, changed the O ring and still added the gasket maker. I'm at 5100 miles and no leaks. Fingers crossed the problem is solved.
Thank you for the detailed video , crawled under the bike to find this unfortunate drip at the lowest point of the pump. You zeroed this in for me and ill be looking to see if a new o ring may fix this later on. Love the bike tons kinda heart breaking. Check the oil everytime seems not to be a lot as its barley noticable on loss of oil.
I have to say…….the leak still remains, which is very disappointing. I’m going to leave it for this summer, but during winter maintenance I will change the pump, as I’m not happy having an oil leak on my otherwise perfect bike, no matter how minor the leak. Some people have had success with a new O ring, some not. Unfortunately for me, I’m in the latter group.
@@TheMonty1994 Hey. Im sorry to see that your bike is still leaking oil. I have a 2018 CBR650F and I have the same issue. The guys at Honda are going to try an O ring swap and see if it resolves the issue, if not it'll be a new water pump but after reading the owners manual it seems that Honda may cover it under manufacturer default but you'll need to go via your Honda dealer. Good luck fella!
@@TheMonty1994 Still experiencing the same problem on a 2022 MY CBR650R. Apparently it's a design flaw that's never been resolved. I've read stories of guys on their third water pump still experiencing the same issue. Oh well.
@@halcyon_studio yep, me too. Although I think it’s luck of the draw. Mine has all but stopped. I get a thin film of oil on the filter occasionally between washes, but it doesn’t form a drip any longer.