How much money have you spent on all this equipment, i have 3 signals in my room and im about $300 into just these 3. So i can only imagine all yours are 1000s of $.
Hey Nick, I’ve been watching on and off for a good decade now, and I have been meaning to ask.. What happened to the old videos of the collection prior to the great teardown? I remember watching them all since the beginning and could never remember the channel name until i recently rediscovered the great teardown.
All the old videos are lost to history. Unfortunately, since I would have liked to have them for archival purposes. The tear down was moving to my own place where I have been now 10 years.
Thank you! Yep, I'm still around. Not as active in collecting as I was, but still enjoy what I have. I'll keep your question noted and include it in an answer video in the near future.
In the past I have used 60 watt fan bulbs in my incandescent lights but have been slowly upgrading to LED filament bulbs. The only incandescent signal in my collection with the original service bulbs is the GE four way. The bulbs are original to that light’s last service set and are all 69 watt traffic grade.
2:41 you need one of those illuminated LEFT signs to stick above that light (im assuming its doing the flash red to mimic the Michigan style left turn lights)
Yes it is. I am from the south eastern Michigan area north east of Detroit. I wanted both old and new flashing sequences in my display. At some point I plan to build a LEFT case sign so that it’s more to scale with an 8 inch light
They didnt exist in Michigan if at all. Prior to right turn doghouses, Michigan used single section right turn green arrows that came on when the cross road left was active, then went dark at the start of phase thru green
The zip ties hold the cabling up, not the signals. I have tried a few ways over the years. One way is with two washers and a threaded eye bolt between them. The washers are predrilled with a hole just large enough for a cable to enter the light. One washer on the inside and one on the outside. The eyebolt hangs off a J hook. Another option I have used is with pipe hardware. A 1.5” floor flange mounts to the wood beam, then I use two “1.5 x close” pipe nipples between a T fitting to feed wire. The second pipe nipple enters into the light and held in with a lock nut. For the four way lights I have hung a half inch diameter metal rod between two joists and suspend them from that. The four ways are pretty heavy so this is the safest hanging method in my opinion.
@@NickBasilico Thanks! I have two signals now, an 8 and 12” poly, trying to hang in my basement on the wood beams of the ceiling, wondering if the load would be too much
You shouldnt have any issue hanging a poly light from the beams. If you have a standard signal hanger you can just use a bicycle hook screwed into the joist. Otherwise I’d recommend the plumbing method with the T fitting for wire entrance and use wood screws to mount the flange.
The Algorithm decided I should watch this. You're such a nerd. I love you so much. I have zero interest in this. But I'm subscribing because of how much you are interested in it. I could listen to you talk about these lights all day. =respectful nod, brother=
Great, detailed spotlight on a "common" signal head - they all have stories to tell. That one surely didn't see too much time in the elements! Maybe I should do something similar with my lights. I sure don't know as much about which companies did the castings. I also don't have the good sportscaster voice you have, LOL!
Thank you Francis! I am actually not 100% sure if this one seen street service. If it did it would have not been for very long. My grandfather who got it for me as a kid, bought it from an acquaintance of his who worked for either Detroit or MDOT and had it in his garage. My grandfather passed in 2002 and I never asked him more about the prior owner. That info, is sadly lost to history. As for the casting suppliers, there were at least a few out there. Eagle used some supplier called "Alumac" during the Eaglelux era, Quad City Die around the flatback era. HBA and Kennedy Die Castings in the later Mark IV, Siemens years. I do know they still outsource their molding/casting, but bring in house the actual assembling of signals for orders. HBA also did other brands. My TCT is badged with an HBA logo in the doors. I know LFE used HBA too. Sometimes you can find unique information off oddball stamps on the castings that give a bit more insight into the signal history, which I find fascinating. As for my voice... I guess it's not bad for just impromptu narration, so please excuse the extra "um's" and "yeah's" ... LOL
@@NickBasilico I can't get enough of the info, man! I may just go inspect my signals for the foundry stamps and get back to you...I know I have a few parts stamped with a capital "J", and that might indicate the Jonson (sic) foundry..?
@@franciskhoury4288 That's definitely a possibility! I'm sure there were many small 'mom and pop' foundries and molders out there that did contract work for the big signal companies. Some manufacturers did insource some of their actual casting, I assume because they're smaller companies. Others in-source only some product (like poly lights in house, aluminum lights outsource) I personally never heard of Jonson, but it wouldn't surprised me that "J" is some type of supplier identifier. Uncovering some of this info and piecing together the puzzle is half the fun of the hobby for me.
Awesome Video! I still collect NEMA TS1/2 signal controllers. I now own a refurbished Naztec Trafficware 900 controller. I am looking into obtaining a NTCIP interface to communicate with other brand of controllers.
Fascinated with traffic lights since I was young. Are there any new traffic light style in 2023? Do you have a traffic light with a cutaway visors on red & green, and tunnel visor on yellow?
This is so awesome! I love your collection. I'm currently growing mine! I have one signal currently and I go to pick up another one in two weeks. My new one I am going to pick up is an LED eagle doghouse signal and I got it for such great pricing. Was it hard to do this setup? How long did it take you?
This is the result of over 20 years of work. Right place at the right time, networking with collectors, manufacturers and contractors. I enjoy the engineering aspect and integrating video detection and other technology into the display.
I think that it would be much safer for pedestrians if the crosswalk signal was separate from the traffic light. All the traffic lights should turn to red, then the crosswalk signal goes green. and then the traffic signal resume as normal.
I was wondering where I might be able to get my hands on an output back panel for the load switches. I’m currently in the process of building another cabinet for my setup and I haven’t had much luck. Thanks!
This video is dated now. I have since moved the four ways. Also this is running off an Intelight controller not the EPAC. But to lag the arrow in an EPAC go to Unit Data, Alternate Sequences and put in the adjacent phase pair you want to reverse (ex 01-02 will run phase 2 first then phase 1). Then you need to select that alternate sequence to run. Go back to unit data and go to “Startup and Misc” find alternate sequence and input the Alt Seq number you phase paired. Then cycle controller power to activate it.
Hi Nick, it's been a while! Still got the Intelight controller? I'm looking for one for a project I'm working on. All I see on EBay are X-1's, would rather have at least an X-2.
Hey Willie. It has been a while, hope you have been well! The X2 is still running in my cabinet on a custom phase structure. At this time it’s not for sale. The X2s don’t show up as often but they do show up. I actually saw X3s at one point. This one came from someone I knew at Intelight.
@@NickBasilico hey Nick, I haven't seen a functional Blade to date. There was one at our Minnesota user group but I wasn't present. Yeah I saw some X2 and X3 on eBay but they wanted a fortune and they were untested. I did manage to get a working M60, brand new McCain controller both quite cheap. Just got an Econolite ASC/3 but looking for a Cobalt. They come up from time to time but again not cheap.
@@willieoutlaw4957 I'd consider a Blade if there was ever a surplus unit available. I know they're so new, there probably only enough out there for orders. Cobalts are cool too. I got to play with one a while back. I like their interface better than the X2, nicer GUI. X2 is slow and the interface is not much different than an Android phone, which make it a little difficult to program from the front panel. I use the remote interface much more. But I do like the X2's great flexibility for customization with 40 phases to work with. I would consider a Cobalt if it could do the custom phase structure I have - 4 phases actuated and 2 phases pretimed running isolated, simultaneously from one cabinet.
Hi Nick, I had just bought the same button you have but I have no idea how to connect it, I don't have a box like you but I just want it to work like a button it (comes on when pushed and off when let go) I also need it for only 2 wires but there's three terminals, if you don't know that's fine, have a great new year. -Hunter Fox
Hi Hunter - is it an electronic button like the Polara, or a mechanical one like the Pelco? I assume it is electronic and you want the two-tone (press and release tones) beeps and LED blink. The button will operate on 12 to 24 volts AC or DC. In many cabinets 12 volts AC is supplied to the ped buttons and an isolator protects the cabinet logic circuits from cabinet damage caused by the buttons being hit or similar. In my cabinet, there is little risk and the buttons are wired directly to the 24 volt DC ped logic inputs for the respective walk phases
I have a British siemans raghead (helios) lantern. It's featured in my lights out video. The lantern in my case is fitted with pedestrian hoods as the traffic version would make it front heavy. I've also mounted the upper bracket to act as a counter balance, and the lower bracket stored in the base I have tapes, pedestrian hoods, arrow and crossing masks and the longer traffic hoods. This way I can recreate any of the main versions you see in the UK.
I assume you mean why did some get retrofitted with Dialight LED modules? These nature of these signals with exposed circuit boards meant they had to be 100% sealed against water intrusion. Over time, with poor installation, and with more crude quality in the later units made with Chinese parts, water eventually would get in and wreak havoc on the boards. The later units had less conformal coating on the boards which did not help moisture. When Q-Free bought Intelight they did not desire to continue production on these.
How do you even order a traffic signal from a manufacture lol? I have an 8" Econolite that I got from eBay but I want to buy another one that's new but I don't know how to go about that
You can inquire via email or call them up. Most large manufacturers run sales through a distributor network and they may or may not deal with private citizens. They are used to large orders, and don't always want to do a small order. And if they do, they want the buyer to be serious in the sale. They're not "ebay", and manufacturer pricing on equipment is typically much higher than what you see on ebay or otherwise. It also takes time to get orders made up - case in point my Dialight head was a prototype signal so I inquired about it when I saw the bulletin they were being developed. I had several phone calls with Dialight sales during that time, as well as my local Dialight distributor whom I paid directly. And it took about a year and a half to actually receive it. It was an expensive head, compared to a standard LED signal head, but I ordered exactly what I wanted in terms of color, lens arrangement, visor type, etc... One manufacturer you may want to consider is Traffic Parts in Texas (google them), which runs Chapel Hill Manufacturing. They have done direct sales before. Call them up and see what they can do for you. They should be much quicker in getting you something then a prototype. But expect the price to be relatively high - 300-500 for a new 3-section head.
@@deborahamantea5557 Many years of collecting, a few came from out of state contractors and passed through collector hands, some came from people who've worked at MDOT, one I bought brand new from the factory, and also working directly with a small town.
Yep I am still around. Life (and 2 kids) has pulled me away from the hobby a bit, but I tinker from time to time. My 3 year old son, really enjoys the signals so they're on whenever he's in the basement.
In-Cycle Flashing Red on the EPAC is one with a non-standard overlap outputting to a phase channel. From main menu go to Time base data then Special Function Mapping. Scroll down until you see the line: AS8-15=OLI-P FL R PHS and put a 1 in ANY of the rows to the right. This field establishes Alternate Sequence 8 as the included phases that will run with overlap I, AS9 with overlap J etc, etc. There are 4 hardware overlaps in most NEMA machines A B C and D. So to use Overlap I you need to output through a phase channel. From the main menu go to Unit Data Overlap Standard and scroll to Overlap I and put a 1 and overlap phase and overlap channel for the phase you want to output a flashing red. The machine may warn you that you are modifying a channel and to allow it and move forward. When using overlap I, go to unit data alternate sequences and in alternate sequence 8 put in the phases where you want the flashing red active. Typically its the adjacent phase so if Overlap I was channeled to phase 1 output then modify AS 8 from 00-00 to 02-02. This will flash the red on phase 1 when phase 2 starts and continue flashing until the end of phase 2. To run the standard Michigan flashing red sequence in the EPAC you must use an alternate sequence to reverse phase pairs, making phase 2 run before phase 1. Use alternate sequence 1 for this and put in 01-02. Then to manually use an alternate sequence go back to unit data and go to start up and misc and in the alternate sequence row put in “1”, and recycle power to the machine. Now it should function like a Michigan sequence with the through lights turning green first with a flashing red left. And the ending with the green arrow. This is how all EPACs in Michigan ran flashing red lefts. EPIC controllers, on the other hand, which used to be the MDOT standard controller used open ended timer intervals that could be set to output a flashing signal on any interval.
Speaking of the countdown, I've seen some crosswalk light countdown that uses proper 9, 7, and 6, and most of these crosswalk light countdown uses like q (9), 7, and b (6), and I don't know why they do that to use these numbers that way.
I am aware of a few. One of which is the last signal I hope to acquire - a Sargent Sowell four way in East Tawas. It was installed for an elementary school back in the early 1960s and when the school closed around 1990 the signal was put on permanent flash. I first saw it in person in 1993 and it was in flash. I have seen in many years and have talked to the city about it but as of a few years ago they were not interested in taking it down any time soon
Nice Collection! My collection is currently running off of an EPAC300 and I’m trying to set mine up for the flashing yellow arrow as well. I was wondering what I would have to do in order to set it up. Thanks.
Firstly you will need an EPAC with software revision 3.33E or newer to run Flashing Yellow Arrows. Check the software revision near the top of the main menu If the software checks out, from the main menu go to Unit Data, Overlap Standard and confirm the Overlap you want to use has NO Overlap Phases or Channels assigned to it. Entries here should be zero for the selected overlap otherwise FYA is inhibited Return to Unit Data sub menu and go to Overlap Special. For FYA operation “-G/Y” is your protected green arrow phase (lets say phase 1) and “+GRN” is defined as your permissive overlap phase (the phase green when you want a flashing yellow arrow display - lets say phase 2) No other parameters need adjustment here. Timing of the green arrow is done in Phase Data. Hope this helps…
I do remember those two lantern types you have in the background, in the middle. It was 1973 in El Paso TX, many crashes with those as the lights could hardly be seen in particular moments of the day and depending on your position in relation to the lantern.
