So that water can drain out when it rains. Truck bed rust/rot in this area is very common as trucks age because water pools up. A rubber grommet cap can be put in the whole if you want it to be sealed but removable.
I know this video is old but im having the same issue with the oil build up under my oil filter housing. We just took the cooler and the filter housing off, inspected them and found nothing out of the ordinary, i even put gasket maker on the cooler when we put it back in place.... and now were still having a bad oil leak
Have you found out the leak I’m having the same problem replaced the whole oil filter housing and there is still oil leak dripping down onto the filter can’t find the damm leak.
@victordelgado1453 dude yes I did! It was actually the timing chain housing gasket. Oil was leaking out the bottom and it was running down the back of my engine and pooling up on either side of the block. I hope this saves you from pulling your engine like i did!
1:22 - is this just a pull/wiggle apart connection & the typical fix? I have a 2015 v60 r design, and the dealer is quoting astronomical prices $1300 to replace, but you make this look easy
Yes, this was a very easy fix for us! I can't remember if that connection is just pull-apart, as there might be some locking tabs, but overall this is a easy fix. Overall cost/price will depend if you buy OEM or aftermarket part. $1,300 seems way too high of a quote.
Looks like I have to replace the EVAP LDP on a 2012 S60 T6 AWD. Have a couple of questions. I'm assuming it is similar to the T5 but I was wondering if the AWD makes it any more challenging given possibly less space to remove and reconnect. Also at 1:24 in your video you are squeezing the tube (I presume to take out the end) ... how easy difficult was it to reach and remove and reconnect ( I know you disclaimer indicate EASY but just had to ask before I even attempt it myself ... dealer wants $1200 to replace which I thin is nuts).. were you able to do it with both hands or just one hand due to lack of space. Appreciate your thoughts/recommendations .... thanks.
It's a pretty straight forward repair and fairly low-risk if you make a mistake, you'll know if the connection isn't correct as you'll continue to get an EVAP engine light error. This is 100x easier and safer than doing jobs such as timing belt or brake job with no experience, where if you mess up, you can kill someone or ruin your car. You can probably use two hands, I only had one hand because I was trying to film it at the same time. If I wasn't filming, I probably could have replaced the part in 5 minutes. $1,200 to repair sounds way to high in my opinion... Consider even if you bought OEM part for ~$250, an average shop might charge $200/hr, so that would put you at ~$500 for the repair.
if you take care of those old trucks from the begining, they can go ungodly amounts of miles & years.reletively trouble free.my 90 is still going strong as the day it was built.but i took good care of it to.burns a 1/3 of a quart of oil between 4k change intervals.at over 200k+ miles.the stock water pump lasted 174k.starter around 185k.back when ford give a crap about quality & value.instead of cheapness & GREED.mines the 4.0 though.
Moving the expansin tank over could have saved the cramped work area and view from the camera may not have been obstructed as much. Way to much movement to continuing watching.
With a lift, big aggressive tires and the proper offset of wheels, looks great. Without all that it looks... weird. A gladiator sport on a 2-3" lift with 35s or 37s looks like how the truck was meant to be. But stock height with the stock 31" all seasons... Uh, no.
In the video, I noticed you swapped out the C-clip for a snap ring to hold the piston in place. The original c-clip is impossible for me to install. Where did you find a snap ring that would fit and what size was it? I have bought 2 sets of snap rings -- the 1" is too big to fit into the cylinder.
Hi! The new snap ring came with the rebuild kit. Not sure about the size… would have to go measure it. You could also use a micrometer to pull exact measurements off your c-clip, then search online for one that fits those specs, or just get the kit that includes it. Sorry we don’t have more info!
Thanks! It’s so water can drain when it rains or when you wash the bed out. A common cause of rusted out beds on trucks like this is when water pools up in the corners with no where to go, or when water gets trapped under the plastic bedliner (which is why we removed it and used a rubberized coating instead!) also need to put a plastic plug/cap in the new hole though, so when transporting sand or rocks, they don’t fall out. Just remove the cap when water needs to drain.
good video, i'm always on the hunt for trucks like this to fix up and resell, problem is people still want $2000 for how it was at the start of the video lol
Many 10's of hours of work went into fixing the truck up overall, but luckily all it needed to get it started was fixing evap leaks, a thorough tune-up, and a new battery!
@@kevinlewis9151 Not personal at all! It's funny, because you are right - the video does make it look that way. We'll do a better job at filming more thoroughly to show the full process next time. Working on a '66 Mustang right now, the video should be good!
