Hello there, I'm a history graduate, museum professional and historical fencer from Austria. I produce content on historical fencing (HEMA), antique swords, sources, and other adjacent areas of historical interest. - Peter
I use handshake grip on both. While I do like swords such as the British 1796 Pattern Cavalry Saber, and US Model 1860 Heavy Cavalry Saber, I prefer late 19th century military sabers with either straight blades or very slightly curved. The German/Prussian M1889 Cavalry Saber and US Model 1833 Dragoons Saber are my two favorites. I also really like the early 20th century military swords like the British & Australian 1908/1912 Pattern Sabers, Austrian 1904 Saber, and US M1913 "Patton" Saber. I like how thick and rigid the blades are, and the overall weight of the sword. Even tho only the top 9 or 10 inches or so are sharp, it's heavy and rigid enough to really hurt quite a bit if you strike someone with the blade. I also really like the big half cup hilt hand protection on the early 20th century swords. It really does an exceptionally great job covering the hand and wrist. And as a hand sniper, I'm constantly conscious of protecting my own sword hand as well as I can.
Sometimes sparring with foams without protective gear is safer than full-speed steel sparring with your entire protective gear on. And it is by far more "martial".
Hello! Could You please make a video about the austro-hungarian sword knots, and bayonet knots of the first world war? What different branches, the austrians, and the hungarians used for the different ranks, and how they are supposed to be fixed onto the swords and bayonets? Nice content, as allways. Greetings, and grüss Gott aus Ungarn!
Leon Paul epee blade is kind of an oddball and not the norm in fencing. Personally I never liked Leon Paul's epee blades because the folded steel design is way too flicky and it vibrates a lot when it was beaten by another blade. Most standard epee blades from the big fencing brands like Uhlmann, Allstar and PBT have more substance cross sectionally, and feel more solid in the hand. The blade profile of the feather smallsword in the video looks essentially the same as the those standard epee blades, just without the wire slot at the forte.
I love the video! However I never made the guard to work - it just takes too much time to adopt it, and before I get there it's already too late. Especially when the beginning of the disengage for cut 5 looks the same as the disengage for cut 3, against which it is supposed to defend. Am I doing it too slow?
No, these are valid points. Mechanically, I understand the half-circle as a beginning cut 3 albeit as a defensive action against the same. It's not my (or anyone's I've seen) go-to parry and I'd much slip my leg while parrying to an outside half hanger ar retreat altogether. However, if they disengange from an inside engagement and try hitting your wrist, it really may be a good option to have up your sleeve as it is arguably the quickest way to defend against that specific disengage-cut 3 to your arm while staying in measure and setting you up for a riposte (e.g. low carte thrust). Long story short: I almost never use it in sparring either.
@@historyandsabre Thanks a lot for the answer! Tbh I didn't expect it after such a long time after the video has been posted. So, it's not only me then xD
Hot doggety. Straight out of Prisoner Of Zenda. The bodacious 'stache. And the black attire. Huzzah to the hussars. Doubtless many others have already uttered or written those words.
I am curious why the hand isn't used compared to something like dussacks where the hand is always in play, or at the ready across one's chest, palm open
I like the 17th century one best. Graceful curve and not too thick of a blade. The 18th century one is too thick for my taste, probably due to it being a cavalry sabre. And the 19th century one is so straight I'd hardly call it a sabre, but still a lovely piece
I have a question about the first Sabre; it appears to have a little tab that acts as a thumb guard. Why is that? Wouldn’t it be harder to hit compared to your fingers?
The 19th century variant hand guard with the blade from the second one would be cool. I don't care for the look of the knucklebow on number 1 and number 2 but that's entirely aesthetic.
Depends on what the person is using but if the assumed standard baseline is a nimbler fencing sabre then yes. Your arm will tire way faster, and you'd have to go about attacking in a different way. The 1796 LC or an 1811 Blücher has a more forward point of balance and is slightly heavier so you'll have to be even more careful not to overcommit on your cuts. One reason is that it takes longer to get back to a safe guard due to higher inertia. You'd have to play it extra defensively against a quicker weapon in my view. If your timing is good your cut will hit with more force than a light fencing sabre. You might be able to expoit this.
It's a beautiful & quite refined design. It's just a pity that it's a non functional sword. I cant lie I've always had a love/hate relationship with such pieces. (Probably b/c they are the ancestor of modern wall hanger/SLO lolol)
Sure but in contrast to modern wallhangers these could still be functional pieces as they were made traditionally with a temper and proper hardening. It's a dress piece, yes, but it has got all the properties of a sword.
