Donate a buck or two if I helped you out, cashapp $thesetangledroots. Thank you :) Just a lady trying to make her mark on the world, by swinging a hammer and turning wrenches. Hopeful to inspire other women to become interested in the trades as well.
Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed listening to you explain this. I am planning on trying this on a 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass and a 2002 Chevy Cavalier. I do wonder how this will work on clear coat though. I am assuming your car had clearcoat. I know clearcoat can begin to get weaker over time. I wonder if several coats of this would actually be needed to get through a harder clear coat? If it works well, I am going to try it on my mom's 1992 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. So many projects but this looks like a helpful product.
hello i have 93 ES turns over dose not start then sometimes starts runs for 20 seconds then the mfi relays clicks and as soon as it does it shuts off. then no start ..leave it for awhile starts up again then does exact same thing. gonna try looking at the ecu here
What a pain...but been there. Ive been melti-fixin plastic parts for decades. Just a shame you arent nearby, im not even sure how many sets of pop-up assemblies, and those headlight trim pieces Ive collected, but its a quite a few LOL. Tip for doing that-"V" out the crack a bit, then try and melt the original piece back together along the crack first, before adding additional filler.👍👍
That all depends on your experience level and what tools you have and if you're doing it solo or not. Sorry I can't answer that one for you. The knocking can be a number of things. You have to determine where is coming from first, top end? Who knows it could be lifter tick, a bent valve, bottom end or could be a rod, maybe your bearings are gone.
Just being overly cautious. I'm sure the old spring was fine, but if I'm dropping $700 dollars on a new pump with bullet gears, why not pick up a new twin turbo spring that cost a few dollars. And replace it while the pump is already out. I just wanted to get everything done at once, then not worry about it for hopefully decades.
@@poweredbyestrogen1166 Makes sense,i'm in big trouble for the same reason,i can't find even a used 91 oil pump,i know i can use the billet from a new 93 pump plus my original spring,but my case also is all damaged and i can't even rebuild it😩I'm stuck with an open engine
I have a feeling your MAF sensor missing is your problem. get rid of that air intake, put the stock unit back in place. those hot air rams don't make more power.
It's not a hot air ram system, those are different. I have a maf-t. But I have already tested with a stock mas and there was no change. I have bigger injectors in the car. So I need to have some sort of fuel management system in, to adjust for the bigger injectors. I need to look at my fuel trims to see what is going on. I need data
Faulty MAP/MAF Sensors: These sensors calculate the engine’s air intake, affecting fuel injection. Incorrect data can lead to a rich mixture. Faulty O2 Sensor: The oxygen sensor monitors exhaust gases and helps adjust the fuel mixture. A malfunctioning O2 sensor can cause richness. Faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor: Incorrect temperature readings may lead to a rich condition. Stuck Open EGR Valve: The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve recirculates exhaust gases. If stuck open, it affects the air/fuel ratio. Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator: An issue with the fuel pressure regulator can cause excessive fuel delivery. Leaking Fuel Injectors
Thank you for the input, My maf so far isn't the issue. I have swapped in a stock maf and logged the car with no changes. O2 is new I replaced it when I rebuilt the engine, I have one stock o2 up stream and a 02 wideband running on the same "bank" further down the front of the downpipe. I have tested the stock o2, it is within spec's and working, the wideband is the same. I can't test it on a ohm of course because it is a wideband and my ohm meter doesn't have a oscilloscope. I wish I had one of those 10k fluke meters. Coolant temp sensor was replaced during rebuild as well, but I tested it and it's passed within specs. The car doesn't have EGR. I have a fuel labs aftermarket adjustable in line regulator with gauge. I can monitor the pressure via the gauge. Fuel pressure is steady and within specs. Took off the vac line and no fuel drips out even after being off for five mins. And no smell of fuel. No fuel leaks, gasket and diaphragm is not ripped. Fuel injectors all gave the same reading on my ohm meter, they are all pulsing, turned each on off manually to monitor change on my logger. They were flow tested and cleaned before I installed them. This is why I'm scratching my head, because I'm like wtf is it, lol. I did a few boost leak test and found a couple small leaks, fixed those but still no real change. I need to get my hands on a better logger that can show me more information that is going on. I need to see live fuel trims. and a oscilloscope would be nice too.
Sounds like it is missing on a cylinder like a bad injector. Would explain lean and dieing condition. Easy test is start it cold and spray brake cleaner on each exhaust header pipe. It will instantly evaporate on a running cylinder but will stay wet on a dead one
Thanks for the suggestions. No miss fire, tho checked. Ptu is working, all coils are firing, new plugs, and injectors were tested as well. I had them flow checked and cleaned and turned off each one by one to see what was going on. It's strange because it was running the same when I had my 650cc in their as well and a backup ecu. It has me seriously scratching my head. Oh since I zero out the maft across tue board my air fuel ratio is around 12.5 now. It's rich and not perfect stoichiometric but at least it's not running super lean. I had a 20:1 air fuel ratio readings before. I'll hook up my data logger tomorrow to triple check and see what it shows. Hopefully, it has some new data to show. Oh also I have aggressive regrind cams, and adjusted cam gears and head work done. So the idle is going to be loopy.
@poweredbyestrogen1166 I feel your frustration, I have been there many times. Hard to help without being hands on. I had tested injectors I put in mine and one of them wouldn't fire after being installed. I have also seen Crack in wire harness not allow one to fire. Switching gears have you done a compression check on all cylinders? I put cams in my car and some how the lifter on cylinder 4 didn't seat all the way and held the valve slightly open and it caused a crappy idle and wouldn't hardly take throttle. I would at least recheck that all 6 are firing with brake cleaner trick to eliminate that. If they are then it could be temp sensor or cam or crank sensor or even physical timing that is off
Have you tried switching the coolant temp sensor. Can be having issues if its not switching from cold to warm map. Fuel filter and pump strainer can cause similar problem if dirty.
Just tested them to make sure they are good. Fuel filter is an new aftermarket fuel labs cartridge. This seems more of a fuel trim issue. Can't get readings off of my 02. Have to see what type of is. The amperage signal coming off of it may be too small and fast for my old logger to pick up. I don't have an Oscioscope.
. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge near the rail? I highly recomend getting one and watching it. Saved me hours, one of my fav mods. You mentioned a boomslang, do you have chrome? You should see what temp it dies at. I think you're right about the fuel trims. As far as the strainer and filter go--- they can slowly suck sediment onto them until they suffocate. My bet is still on coolant temp sensor though
@justinfabricius1597 yes I have a aftermarket in line fuel pressure regulator. Don't have chrome yet. Wish I did but I don't have chrome money lol. I'll run some test this week to see if it constantly shuts off at around the same temp.
about to go at this tmr with the solid tensioner. got my friend to help me take off everything to this point but neither of have done timing and his car is way different. fingers crossed.
Take your time and go slow. When you think you are done, double check everything again, just to make triple sure, before you start the car. You got this bro! :)
@@poweredbyestrogen1166so i got it tightened everywhere twice but ran into some stuff that made me redo it twice.. anyhow i had a question: my 3sx solid tensioner doesnt seem to go as far out as urs does. i spin the bolt until the belt is similar to RVNGE’s example video but my bolt itself doesnt travel very far out until it reaches that point. should i be worried?
@@WinnyPooh Are you also using a solid idler? It is best to pair the solid tensioner with a solid idler as well. I did not use the stock idler that has the two holes in it, that you have to hold at a certain angle while setting the tensioner.
@@poweredbyestrogen1166 i did not know of the solid idlers existence til now haha. so technically it should be okay as long as i set the holes to the right spot? and down the line just remember to buy a solid one when i go back in for my oil pump and kevlar belt?
@@poweredbyestrogen1166 2) and also i should just turn the idler to the right position, but not move it over and tension it right? just use the solid tensioner’s bolt to move it over similar to how yours is until the tension is correct?
Go slow and recheck ALL the way through the process. I triple check when doing my timing belt. And then triple check again after it is done, before I start the car.
Thank you for sharing. You helped solve my problem. It turns out just the screw on the ignition switch sensor was loose as you stated, I tightened back on and it solve the problem.
Always love the small changes between generations that you dont know exist until you buy a part from a different year. I put a new reman power steering pump on my 99 and everything fit but the pressure sensor was a different size. So i had to buy a new pressure switch to make it work. Not sure why they had to change that after 8 years
Dang sorry to hear all this. I love these cars but once you move away from oem design you can run into alot of problems. My project was completely custom so I ran into things like this all the time. Only took me over a year lol. I hope it gets better soon
Thanks for the video I just bought some of this Citristrip today and was wondering how it would do on my vehicle I like the fact it isn't toxic like some of the others and alot cheaper than the newer Aircraft gel.
I put a SC on my 3000 and used a intake spacer to gain some clearance. I did a leak test and it leaked like crazy between the upper and lower. Found out the spacer was melting and gapping. I had an aluminum one made. Thanks for the video 😀
Thanks! I am looking at a 91 Stealth. Owner says it doesn't even click when turned over, and clutch pedal is on floor. He is asking $1,000 OBO. Black with black leather interior in great shape, scratches and dings normal for age. Any advice, or ideas?? Looking for a car for my 16 yr. old
Thanks for your honest review. I've used 2K SprayMax for a few projects and was happy with the results. But I was wondering if the Kustom Canz was better. I think I'll stick with what I know. I've had a few projects where all I had to do was use a heavy cut buffing compound followed by a finish cut compound on the SprayMax. GLASS finish, even with 5 coats. No sanding involved. Looked like a jewel when done. Extremely happy with the results!
SprayMax 2k clear is the best clear out there. No contest. Lots of people agree and say they were unhappy with Kustom Canz 2k clear. However, their (Kustom Canz's) huge assortment of custom colors and finishes are incredible! Most are best sprayed over a solid black base. And you'll likely need more cans than one, of course depending on the size of your project. For an old Schwinn StingRay bicycle I painted, it took one 13.5oz can of their black base, 2 of their 13.5 oz metal flake, and 1 can of SprayMax clear. Kustom Canz does not sell SprayMax. They only have their 2k and their less expensive 1k clear. 2k refers to a clear paint consisting of 2 parts, a clear and a hardener. You need to insert a little plastic thing that they provide into the base of the 2k can, then bang it on a table or floor in order to break the seal and allow the 2 chemicals to mix. Note that once the seal is broken you have only about 24-48 hours to use the can. After that the 2-part clear will harden inside the can.
I've now used both spraymax and kustom canz clear coat recently, and honestly I could not tell the difference so I'm guessing things have changed since because they're both identical. probably same shit inside the cans made in the same place, no major orange peel on either and both buffed with a couple passes easy. I'd recommend whatever one you can get your hands on first, I think too many people jump on th spraymax bandwagon saying it's the best when it's the same as others imo.
@@danielkerr4100 - I guess you could be right. Maybe it was my fault the one time that I used Kustom Canz that it didn't come out too well. It was a long time ago. I don't recall the details. But then I do remember reading some negative comparative reviews on the KC vs SM. But who knows how honest reviews are. Anyone, including those with an agenda or financial stake in the company, could write one.
Tony's patterns are way worth every cent and nice job, I used clear tape for a long time before switching to masking tape....I switched because the clear tape gunked up my punches and they became near useless.
Thats the same thing that happened to my punches. I have found cheap dollar store masking tape to work the best. The most expensive stuff doesn't hold as well to the leather.
