Excellent tutorial. I'm surprised at how few views this has had. You are perfectly correct: we take years to finally change the blade in our workshop tools, and then discover that it only takes a couple of minutes to have a new cutting device that is quieter, cuts cleanly, and makes less mess. Thanks for sharing. Oh, I'm definitely ready to change the blade on my table saw.
@whomadethatsaltysoup 😁 Hi, yes I'm afraid none of my videos ever get many views regardless of how hard I try. Obviously the youtube algorithm doesn't like my content much (because it's not a funny cat video) 😆. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
Great video Frank, Thank You. Extremely well described and covered all articles of the Disklok. Popped down my local Halfords yesterday and picked up a gold edition. With payday10 discount code, got it for £135 click & collect 😎 Makes perfect sense owning one of the UK's most stolen cars (Fiesta) Thanks again Frank 👍 cracking job.
@toppertopp 😁 Nice one Chris. You won't be disappointed. It will be a big deterrent to the low life's that want to take your car. You quickly get in the habit of fitting it when you leave the car 😁. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
@lynneparsad8490 🤣🤣 Taking a scalpel to a set of nostrils just felt "wrong"... but It had to be done 😆. Sid is a great apprentice, more tests are on the way 😁👍xx
Very interesting video Frank, looking forward to the follow up and results. It would be interesting to see the readings if he had a puff of your vape. 🙂 Keep em coming.
@SteveMonk1956 🤔 Oh my god... I didn't even think about my vape. Just finished the follow up video so will need to do the vape as a stand alone experiment.... don't think I will like the results though 🤔. Thanks for watching Steve 😁👍
Hi Frank, It is silly idea to get that dust device meter in your lungs it will be hard to swallow, take it with a glass of water🤣🤣Poor Sid at lest hes ok now now you cleared his stuffy nose and cleared his throat from the neck up, he can breath now Dr Frank🤣🤣 It does make you wonder how much goes in to our lungs with out a dust mask, great idea using Sid he has done his job well. Good experiment mate, as always a great video, catch you soon Take care😎👍👍
@shaun30-3-mg9zs 😆 Thanks Shaun. 😆 Think it would take more than a glass of water to swallow that, and the worry is how you would gain access to plug it in 😵. Young Sid is doing some more experiments already. He is a good worker, but I think he is just on a smoke break 🤣🤣. Thanks for watching mate, catch you soon 😁👍
It looks like the egyptian mumification team will be calling on your services. 😂 An ambitious and useful project for all of us working in small garages. I wish you well.
@paulcooper9187 😃 Thanks Paul, there is a follow up video on its way (hope to edit it tomorrow). That will be worth a watch... a bit of an eye opener 😲. Thanks for watching Paul 😁👍
Hi Frank, nice video. A few suggestions if I may. 1. When drawing the shape, use the "Offset" feature around the original shape in the CNC software (looks like you use Vcarve) to give you a perfect copy any size you want around the original. 2. Use Cast Acrylic, it has a high melting point and less likely to be an issue. 3. Instead of using 2 pieces of acrylic for one tree (inner and outer), use one piece, cut the smaller tree out of the bigger one. 2 sided tape the now hollow tree template on the work piece and router out the inside, then jump over and route out the outside without removing the template. Finally, they make CNC bits specially designed for Acrylic to help decrease the overheating problem. Personally, I don't use acrylic for templates any more, too expensive and problematic. I went over to MDF. Much cheaper, just as effective as a template and much easier to make. Thanks for listening
@wilsmith2907 😁 Hi Wil. Thanks very much for your comments. I have learned quite a lot in the last year regarding things like offset etc (mainly from using Lightburn for my laser. I think I would probebly approach this project a bit differently now. This was all done for a subscriber who supplied the acrylic, so I was limited by his requirements. I think MDF is the way forward because it's cheaper and easier to work with. But it was a fun project and I did learn quite a bit 😃. Thanks again Wil for watching 😁👍
@ericthompson3729 😁 Great security Eric 👍. The Faraday bags are good, but I have seen some reports that keys have still been scanned while in a bag 🤔. I can only assume there are different quality bags. But any measures that slow the thieves down or make it difficult for them has got to be a good thing 😁. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
I got a small Disklok for my car, and even though the lock sits loosely on the wheel (as designed), you can still reach behind the grab the steering wheel spokes and turn the wheel. The challenge for thieves is that they will have a 10 lb Disklok hindering their efforts to drive, and the bar will hit the windshield and the interior bits of the car, including your legs. I have seen a video where two guys test it out and the person in the passenger seat grabs the Disklok lock bar to hold it steady while the driver turns the steering wheel spokes. This sort of makes the 'free spinning' security feature useless, or maybe worse than useless. So, here's my question and I'm wondering if you can shed some light on this - is it better to install the Disklok so that it spins freely (as the manufacturer claims is a security feature, that can be defeated as above) - or just wedge a microfiber towel inside so that it won't spin as freely, making it significantly harder for the 2nd thief to hold onto the lock bar because there will be a LOT more friction as the driver turns the steering wheel underneath the Disklok?
😁 Hi Gns, yes I've seen the same video where they drive the vehicle with the disklok in place by reaching around the back. And I did try it on my car when I got it. It is ridiculously difficult because of the location of the other controls... but it is possible. The microfiber cloth would be a good option as it would increase the friction and make it even more difficult. But that will add time to fitting it when you leave the car. Because we are all humans and become complacent, we would soon stop doing that because it takes too long. A better solution would be to get or make some kind of rubberised steering wheel cover that stretches over the wheel (like the cover in my recent follow up video). This would not only protect the wheel, it would also stop the disklok rotation 😃. And would only take seconds to fit 🤔 (sounds like I need to make one and copyright it 😆😆). You could make one out of a bike tyre innertube or something.. Ultimately, if they want to steal the car they will find a way. But this lock acts a big deterrent and would cause too many obstacles for a potential thief. Thanks very much for your comment and thanks for watching 😁👍
@@frankslittleworkshop Hey, thanks for the reply. I actually managed to find a cloth that is the right size and fiber texture (rough texture, it's meant for cleaning the glass), folded it lengthwise twice and wedged it inside the Disklok, where it doesn't move (although I will consider taping it to ensure it really doesn't move) and is always there whether I install or remove the Disklok! Then I close the Disklok all the way to the innermost slot, for maximum bar length and contact with the cloth inside. I tested it out by moving my seat all the way back and down as much as possible, and the steering wheel fully extended and all the way up. In this position, the bar clears the center console but invariably hits your thighs or the driver's door when you try to make right turns. Left turns cause the bar to hit the windshield almost immediately. I even angled the bar to point at 5 o'clock and that causes it to hit your thighs / driver's door sooner than if I had the bar pointing at 3 o'clock. Also, the added friction from the cloth makes it very, very challenging for a second person to hold the Disklok stationary while someone else tries to turn the steering wheel spokes, and it's impossible to remove said cloth with the installed Disklok! I timed how long it takes me to retrieve the Disklok from the trunk (in a zippered shopping bag) and install it - one minute and 10 seconds, which is more than acceptable for protecting my car and presenting a strong visual deterrent. One more question if I may - the free spinning nature of the Disklok was meant to prevent "forcing the built-in steering lock through leverage". What does that mean, exactly? The thief could use the bar on a lock like the Club or Stoplock as a lever to break the built-in steering lock? My confusion over this is if the thief already gained access to your car and started it, wouldn't that disengage the built-in steering lock anyway? Or do they mean that a thief can start a car without actually tricking that security system into retracting the built-in steering lock? I'm confused haha.
@gns942 😁 Hi Gns, obviously if they have gained access to your car via scanning a proximity key, which opens the doors and allows you to crank and start your car, then the steering lock will release. However, if your car is a more conventional car with just a remote to open the door, you would still need the key in the lock to release the steering lock.. this is when they need to leaver to brake it. That's when it's beneficial to have the free wheeling disklok. I hope that explains why . Thanks again for your comments 😁👍
@@frankslittleworkshop Hi Frank, I think I understand now. It is possible to hotwire a car and bypass the ignition switch. The car starts up but the built-in steering lock is not released because the key was not physically inserted and turned. Then the thief yanks on the Club or Stoplock and breaks the pin off, and they can saw the steering wheel, remove the steering lock and drive away. If only these thieves could put their genius to making money using legal methods, they would be rich and not have to worry about the law. Thank you for the explanation!
@Bikerboy2023Today 😁 Hi Tony, I don't think you honestly "notice" the difference because it's the very very fine particles that the HEPA filter deals with. These are the particles that do the damage "because" you don't notice them. So you have to rely on just knowing the filter is doing its thing. Watch my video on the air quality meter, it may explain it in a bit more detail 😁. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Cutting vinyl with a laser is super dangerous. It will gives off cyanide gas which will destroy your lungs and rust out your equipment. There are a few companies that sell non-PVC vinyl, but most are made of PVC and that's a huge NO-NO on a laser.
@@Yell0wCAb_vict0ria 😁hi Victoria. You will need to measure the steering wheel as shown in the video to see if it is compatible 😁. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
Bonjours j'ai un problème avec mon scunfun s9 j'ai mis un rail linéaire et depuis quand je grave j'ai plus l'ai detail ça fait tout rempli pouvez vous me dire d ou cela vien je suis en france
@sandrinemuguet8733 🤔 Hi Sandrine, it's difficult to tell without seeing your problem. But I suspect it is more of a software issue than a hardware issue ?. Just converting to a liner rail should not create a difference between a "fill" or a "line" engraving 🤔. However, just to be sure, it may be necessary to re-install your laser as a new laser (I can only assume you are using lightburn software). And insure your work area is set correctly. Alternatively, it may be caused by some additional loading (drag) on the rail ?. Check it all moves freely (you may need to remove the drive belts for this). If it is not moving freely then the steppers may be missing steps or juddering which could give the impression of a "fill" engrave. I hope this gives you some ideas. Thanks for watching 🇫🇷 🇬🇧👍
Here is some realistic, honest woodworking. Addressing the real problems that inevitably occur on the way in any project. Because part of the fun of woodworking is just that: problem solving. I love that this is repurposing wood. A simple project, simple presentation of it, with a beautiful result.
@patricksavard1751 😃 Thank you very much Patrick. That is so true. Solving problems or finding solutions is the fun part. The reward is the final result and seeing the smile on the face of it's new owner 😁. Thank you so much for watching 😁👍
The kit I ordered came with some kind of black plastic "deflector" that i think is supposed to sit over the board. I can't seem to get it to fit though. Is it not required...?!
@views4070 😆😆 Excellent 😁. I don't think I even got a deflector in my kit 🤔. It must have been a later addition. Glad you got it sorted. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
I think your clock showed a lot more skill than the jigsaw, not to mention the sheer volume of work. Sometimes I think shows don't use woodworkers to judge woodwork..
@davesales3177 😁 Hi Dave. No, none of the judges were woodworkers. It's the same judges that rate the Victoria sponges and scones. I think they must have assumed it was just a kit that I assembled. I did have a little QR code that I wanted to put next to it so they could see the making process... but that was against the rules ☹️. But I enjoyed the build so it's all good.. and its still working a treat all these years later 👍. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Nice one Frank, got my eyes on a second hand s10 with a pump, but if that doesn't work out I'll be getting one, might have a job cutting out 500 leather things! ATB, Cliff
@CliffsShed 😃 Good luck Cliff. An S10 with air assist should be a great tool. I've never cut leather before... I imagine it's going to get a bit smokie 😆. Don't forget your extractor. Let me know how you get on 😁. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@lynneparsad8490 ☺️ Thanks sis 😁, well happy with them. Hopefully it will save me ruining my steering wheel coz I'm so clumsy 😆😆. Thanks for watching Sis xx😁👍
Hi Frank, good idea a bag to put your Disklok in and it does not roll around in the boot also a nice pair of knickers to put on the steering wheel, in all good birthday present. Are you back on Thursday night for Shed Space if you are i'll catch you there. Great video Take care mate
@shaun30-3-mg9zs 😆😆 Its the knickers that make it all worth it 😆😆. Hope to make it back to Shed Space this week if I can, so I'll catch you there mate 😁. Thanks for watching mate 👍
@ceciliachakamba7378 😁 Hi Cecilia, if you have only just got it, don't mess around with it, just send it straight back if it is faulty. It should be good to go straight out of the box. If there is a quality issue with your one, they are obliged to replace it or refund your initial outlay. Let me know how you get on. Thanks for watching Cecilia 😁👍
@carpandrei7493 😆😆 It must be true... I even have a T shirt that confirms it. If I had my way, it would be passed as a law that you must have more clamps than you can store 😆😆. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
😁 Thanks Shaun. You can never have enough... but I'm running out of space to put them. For some reason keeping them in the dining room was not a very popular idea 🤔 I don't know why 😂😂. Thanks for watching mate 👍
I bought quite a few of these a couple of years ago. Put them in my shed next to my Irwin ones and they went rusty. Irwins are fine. Get what you pay for.
😁 Hi Si. I had the same with a couple of my workzone ones. I left them in the garden... in the rain. They went really rusty. But I stripped them down and cleaned them up and now they are back in the comfort of the workshop and still work well 😁. Thanks for watching Si 😁 👍
@@frankslittleworkshop The Lidl ones were in a shed where i keep all my Bosch Pro tools. The rust on them was pretty bad and it had actually eaten through the metal and left holes in them. But like i said, the Irwin ones were still as the day i bought them. If where i was keeping them was the problem then everything else would be rusty too. I've stopped buying stuff from Lidl. I even had an SDS from there a while back and it rattled itself to death within a week of just drilling holes. Some people maybe get lucky with Parkside stuff but i'll never bother again.
@SiAnon 😃 Its true, you do get what you pay for. These are budget clamps so you can't expect them to be made with the same grade of material as the more expensive ones. It just means you need to take more care when maintaining them. As I mentioned in the video I have had a lot of these clamps for years and years and they all still work really well. I must admit that they are never stationary for long enough to go rusty as I use them on a daily basis and always clean them after use. I have never invested in the Parkside power tools but have had multiple Workzone ones from Aldi. Again they have all served me well but now I'm on the Stanley V20 battery platform so my old workzone ones have been retired 😆😆. So yes, you get what you pay for, but if that's all you can afford then you have to look after them to make them last 😁👍
I got some from Lidl a few years ago in 300mm, 150mm, and a couple of 915mm (actual measured capacity almost 925mm). Colour and design the same as your Powerfix but mine are marked Parkside. Very happy, nothing wrong with build quality, used in both clamp and spreader configurations. F clamps deliver more pressure but I think that's true of quick clamps in general, not just Lidl's, and usually plenty for their purpose.
😁 Thanks Khakoo. I forgot to show the long parkside one I have (900mm+). I only managed to get hold of one, but it is surprisingly good and i often reach for it rather than my Bessie paralell clamps. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
How many mate 😂😂 brilliant 😃! Much better review than mine 🙌😉 , I also didn’t mention the spreader , I get distracted 😂, great testing set up👌cheers Rob
😂 Thanks Rob. It's your fault I went and got them after watching your review 😆😆. Because I obviously didn't have enough in the first place. Thanks for watching mate 👍
😁 Thanks Quest. I looked yesterday in my local store and they still had a couple of sets left. It was all I could do to stop myself buying them 😆😆. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
Blimey mate, fascinating. I’d never have thought it would last that long! I’d send the link of this video to Starbond, I’m sure they’d appreciate it 😀👍
@Hand-i-Craft 😁 Thanks Leo. I didn't even think of that. But I've just taken your advice and sent them a link 😁 (im never going to be a millionaire am I 😆😆). Thanks for watching mate. Hope your well 😁👍
Just layed a porcelain patio & me being me chipped a corner off one of the tiles so I done exactly the same. Unless you know you won't ever see it. I did wonder how long it would last with the wonderful uk weather but now I know it should be OK. Cheers 😂
@GrumpysWorkshop4 😁 I'm surprised my slab has survived a few frosts without any problems so far 🤞. I would imagine porcelain would be an even better bond if it was a clean break as it is a much finer grain than my slab 😁. Hope your well Dave. Thanks for watching mate 😁👍
😁 Thanks Colin. It's funny because I don't even notice it anymore. I see it every day and just assume it's fixed forever 😁. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks for watching 😁 👍
@@kova_zg Hi Tomislav, the video was more to show the process of cutting and transferring the vinyl. So people could use this method to make designs for any surface. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hi Frank , How are you ? can you help me, I have a sculpfun s9 . My job is Vinyl sticker cutting . not a reflective .only vinyl sticker. can you tell me how much setting for this speed and power in Lightburn ?
Great video but... the chances of those 3rd party rear filters really being HEPA grade are slim to sod all. It's probably still worth doing just to make cleaning out the rear filters easier.
😁 Hi Peter, it really doesn't matter while your actually building it (apart from you will get wet). But it will need time to dry before you get the windows and doors on. Obviously it's never good to leave standing water anyware on wood but a shower or two should be OK. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@frankslittleworkshop perfect mate I am just pricing it up now and it's working out if I get a company to build it nearly 3k for just a double door 18x 10 garage no windows etc like one of those council 1s. It's literally just for me to store stuff in do you think it would be allot cheaper to build it myself
@@peterjohnson7148 🤔 building it myself worked out about half the price of a ready made one. But the ones I looked at were all a bit rubbish and wouldn't have lasted long. The best thing about making it yourself is that you can customise it to suit how you are going to use it. I would build my own again any day 😁. Hope that helps Peter 😁👍
@frankslittleworkshop cheers mate now I need to figure out the materials needed that's the last question I promise haha how do I figure out how much I need
@peterjohnson7148 Hi Peter. The only way you would know exactly what you need is if you have a full set of drawings and a cut list. I didn't have either of these as there was a lot of "make it up as you go" during this project. Your best bet is to brake it in to stages and figure out what you need for each stage. For example, I did The concreat base / the shed floor / the walls / the roof / the felt and cladding / the doors then finally the treatment (painting). Also don't forget to factor in the electrics and lighting if you want them. If you brake it in to sections like that then it is a bit easier to figure out how much each stage costs so you can budget accordingly. Also, don't be afraid to use reclaimed or used materials. These may be cheaper or even free. But may take some more effort to use them (the doors on my shed for example... we're old decking... and totally free). I hope that helps Peter. 😁👍
I have just bought one of these trimmers, and I used it for the first time. The problem is that the auto line advance doesn't advance much , only about 2/3 of the distance to the trimmer blade. I checked the spool, no tangles, and the motor makes that click on startup like yours but the line feed is not working properly. I'm about to take it back tk the shop. Any ideas why it's not working properly?
😁 Hi Stan. I must say that I haven't had any issues with my auto feed on my one, and im now on my second line re-fill. I can only assume that either the line is wound too tight or the advance mechanism is stuck 🤔. So its probebly worth taking it apart again just to check it's all free. Also check the line is wound in the correct direction. And finally ensure the spool is sitting correctly when you re-assemble. If all of that is correct and it is still faulty I would return it back to the store and you should get a refund or an exchange. Good luck Stan. Let me know how you get on 😁 thanks for watching 😁👍
😃 It "was" an amazing structure. It's a shame it had to go. But just couldn't risk letting the little blighters sting everyone. As you say " clever little engineers" 😁. Thanks for watching James 😁👍
@@FixitFingers 😁 Thanks James. "Organic" is a skill that I have developed recently 🤔. It appears to be directly proportional to the degradation of my visual capabilities 😆😆. Or to put it another way... I'm a blind old git now days so everything is a bit wobbly 😆😆😆. Thanks for watching mate. Hope your doing well 😁👍
Thanks mate, very useful... but just a question... does this mean that on any other saw of the same, you get either one of the locking mechanism only or are there different kind of locking systems other than these two? thanks!
😁 Hi Darren.these are to only two types i have at the moment. But the previous one I had used an Allen bolt to fit the blade (it was a pain). So there are different types. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
