Hey, I'm Devin and this is a channel about a '92 Honda Civic. Driving, building, and DIY on one of the most loved, hated, and modified chassis of all time, the EG. Built right here in my garage and driven hard, this car gets put through the ringer on the street, track and even the dyno.
We walk through the build process, common and not-so-common mods, technical how to's, successes and failures, setup testing, and the real reason behind it all....driving.
The car has been with me nearly a decade and it's been through many fun iterations along the way. But as any car nerd enthusiast knows, you get to a point where you realize...the deeper you go, the less you know. So we're just getting started.
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@cliffmorrison1130 similar to the front. And pretty sure it had half the miles on it because I had the rear pinion seal replaced under warranty a few years ago, which requires a fluid change.
Former 2000 Civic Si owner, bought when new. Love the high revving nature of an NA engine, but lets be real, this is not the type of track made for the Z06. A 7:13 Nurburgring time puts the C7 Z06 with some serious company.
I own a c5z. But i remember my first time being in new rsx type s ( back circa 2002) with H/I/E. And damn still one of the best sounding 4 bangers out there!! Nice driving.
Hey man, I absolutely love your build. I would really like to know what AWD system you're using as I have a similar final build planned myself! I want to use the drivetrain from a 2nd gen CR-V I bought as a donor car, but it's only part-time AWD (FWD until the front slips, and then the rear kicks in) and I don't know how good that system would be on track. How are you finding the grip? Is AWD worth the extra weight? Thankyou so much!
Appreciate the love man. Message me on IG @kawdzilla and we can chat more. As far as the grip, it’s surprisingly seamless, you really don’t feel the awd “kick in” but you can 100% tell it’s awd as there’s no wheel spin and almost no power out understeer like fwd. Def worth the extra weight imo, car is 2311 lbs. Using wago parts so I can’t speak to CRV setup effectiveness on track.
@@phantasy2075 that’s old man speed. Excellent driver and a really cool guy. I was having trouble getting rid of him so I deployed my windshield molding countermeasures.
I have 2020 with them frozen. I did not go hard enough for the "pop," but they are slightly different. Thanks for the video, and if anyone knows more about the 2020, please let us know!
FYI the heaviest part of the wheel is not always the valve stem. I have my own tire machine and balancer. I spin the wheel without the tire and mark the heavy spot, sometimes its over 90 degrees from the stem and sometimes its right on it. I always match the heavy spot to the light spot and the wheels take very little weight and drive perfect at every speed.
@@kawdzilla No sir...the actual ignition switch at the bottom of the steering lock assy. The lock assy is discontinued in the US, you can get em from Japan, probly, on ebay... but the OEM switch portion from an EK bolts up and worked. It's alot easier, and you keep your matching key to doors.
@@boostismagic oh yes, I'm tracking. That's a good option. My door lock cylinders are getting replaced soon anyway since they're basically unusable, so matching wasn't a concern for me at least.
@@kawdzilla 👍 Gotta get creative on these parts now..also just fitted a heater valve from an Odyssey. same valve as ours, but ave to re-use Civic bracket and the little throw lever that the cable attaches to. The OEM one is cheaper than the aftermarket which most have bad reviews. Race car may not need heater either, 😅
Go to headlight revolution. com and order the csp mini led bulbs. They fit perfectly in stock headlight assembly and the dust covers go back on. Adjustment still works properly and no cutting needed. That was stupid!
Top strip just pulls out. Side pieces, pull from the inside edge and squeeze outwards and pull away from the glass, then up. If you're not trying to save them, just yank em out, the clips will probably break anyway if they're old and brittle.
Gears are long as hell on that crv trans for the track lol but what’s your awd setup ? Stock element driveshaft ? Stock crv diff ? And who’s trailing arms and diff mount did you get, I’m about to swap my dc2
They are indeed. At least it’s got an LSD. Wagon parts all around. VC rebuilt by Trustfab, stock diff, custom rear driveshaft, modified stock front shaft, both completely redone with 1310 u-joints. S1 Alpha arms, FCS diff mount, insane shaft swap axles all around.
your driving was so satisfying i didnt even noticed how long i was watching for. usually have trouble watching entire riding povs, but not this time :) beautiful driving and the car sounds so good
10.3 AFR on a all motor car is pretty crazy, I think there's a lot of power being left on the table with that motor. All of my friends with k swaps (including myself) are at anywhere between 12.3-13:1 on WOT
100% needs a tune at WOT, feels a bit boggy when it's that rich. Type S basemap certainly isn't accounting for the side dump exhaust. Idles perfectly at 14.7 though...small wins.
@@kawdzilla hey man, youre at the track get seat time and learning the car. Thats all the matters. Even with that tune thats on there right now the thing would never blow up anyways, those motors are solid. Id ask the tuner to leave it a little rich (maybe 12.5) on wot to keep cooler cylinder temps, since on the track the car experiences high load for 20 minutes nonstop at times.
Hey that was me in the red 9th gen accord at the 7:00 mark You're pretty dang fast! Hope to see you at future events. I can't wait to get back out there on a hotter day and dry track.
Awesome driving, great content. Awd is the way to go, leaves a way for the inivitable power adder to put down the power. Smart man. Subbing for more. 👍 👍
CRV transmission woes...the JDM 5.062 FD is actually the shortest final drive of any Honda trans that I know of. It's the gear ratio spread that's the problem.
Hate you burst your bubble.....but that 220 HP doesn't need the awd system....I'd bet money car would be faster with a k20 type r transmission with a 5.1 final drive vs the awd
I'd like to add that it MAY be faster in the dry with fewer drivetrain losses and less weight, but OP said it was unimaginably better in the wet being AWD. To be fairer to your argument, it'd be the best it could be in the dry if he put the engine and transaxle behind himself and made a de-dion axle for the rear, and that's both whether he paired that setup with AWD or left it RWD only. I still think AWD will be superior in the wet either way, but at the very least a transverse MR setup with de-dion axle would be faster than your FWD proposal.
