Other than the loader not having a dedicated strap, I’m all ears to learn why you feel this way….

A Kubota dealer will be able to get these for you.

I do not have a quick hitch. I don't remember how much I had to cut off, but it was more than I thought. It ended up being a really short PTO shaft even with little tolerance to slide it on.

@sweatequitylife if you get a chance will you measure how much you have left on each end? I ended up cutting 9 inches off mine and it broke first time using it. I think I cut too much to where there wasn't enough overlap.

@@bluelinewhitetails6205 I measured the tractor side of my PTO shaft (front 1/2) from tip of connector to end of shaft = 15.25 inches. Al ot of variables to consider here, please only use my measurements for reference. Thanks,

That’s great!

Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!

Thank You....It really did work very well for such a simple design. My neighbor is still using it. I thought about doing something like you suggested, but there is no real way to make a universal design with all the variances of plows and ATVs. The other factor is if the blade trips it could whip the handle back at you. Thanks for watching!

They are called "Quick Fist" clamps. I ordered them from Amazon. Many different kinds, just search ATV tool mounts. The magnets are from Harbor Freight. I used a wood spacer also.

I’m not sure. I would guess you should be fine.

Hi Michael, I would recommend attaching BH to tractor and measuring the distance between ground and bottom of outrigger arms folded up (this will be the pivot point). Then you will have to find castor wheels that will work with no less than 3” of wood to get you to that height you want. I would say 2” of clearance will be fine. You can always shim up from there if needed.

Hi Dave, my BH77 is on my new LX3520 -- the pivot pin that hooks into the subframe on the tractor is 16 inches at center. How much clearance should I build the dolly to -- within say 2 inches so dolly height is at 14 inches...just curious as to what you would do

Sorry I've looked for the papers and cannot find them. I did all this when I ordered the tractor and the dealer was able to order the additional parts. I was told that the BH77s come with both sets of levers and did not need to order those. I would recommend stopping by your dealer and they should be able to hook you up with part numbers and pricing pretty quickly. Thanks

I do not. May I ask why do you ask?

@@sweatequitylife There’s just so much wiring on tractors these days it makes me nervous about having an electrical issue. I haven’t washed my tractor yet, just use the leaf blower but I disconnect the battery when I wash the side x side

I do not have spacers. I chose the larger tire size which increased the width similar to using spacers.

Thanks! I’m glad the video was helpful.

I bought them on MYTEE Products and are Peerless QuikBinder Plus. Thanks for watching

Thanks Gregory....I've learned recently that the manual states not to use the 3 point or rear remotes when the BH is attached. Please check with your dealer before considering this approach. I am not an expert on hydraulics and don't know why Kubota is stating this.

Thanks Larry…I always use float when plowing snow. I personally don’t use rear ballast and found that it makes steering easier. Rear tires are loaded though.

@@sweatequitylife Thank you for the quick reply. I have the LX2610 and have used the BH77 backhoe as ballast. LA535 loader with B2673 plow. For me, float wasn’t working well as the blade was causing too much friction and was impossible to steer without taking out of float and manually working blade. I’ll try loading tires and removing backhoe. Pros/Cons to loading tires? What is your “loading” suggestion? Does your plow leave scrape marks in your drive that eventually wash away with rain?

@@user-fp2bz9us7d The BH is adding roughly over 1,000 pounds of rear ballast and when blade is on the ground, especially in float, there is no front ballast, weight of FEL is supported by the ground. Your tractor is back heavy and the friction of the blade causing the FEL to "dig in" lifting front tires. Loading tires does not add rear ballast for when you are doing "lifting" FEL work, but it does add weight and stability on the rear tires. The tractor's center of gravity is lowered and weighs more providing more traction. This is helpful because the compact tractors will lose traction before power. I had the dealer add Rim Guard when I purchased tractor. No scrape marks for me. I have a UHMW cutting blade that just glides across the pavement or concrete smoothly.

@@sweatequitylife Thanks much! I appreciate the quick advice and will follow your suggestions before the snow falls next winter

Nissan Titan 1/2 ton

@@sweatequitylife thanks just bought same model and wondered if my 150 would pull it on a good trailer

Hi Daniel, honestly don't know for certain, but they are smaller and must be 1/4. These were installed by dealer and to be honest, I don't like the way they are tucked back in there. Pain in the a** to connect and disconnect.

@@sweatequitylife Wow, Kubota must have different Rear remotes for the ROPS and Cab units. The LX2610 Cab has the ISO, Universal, 1/2" Female connectors, and they are mounted high on the rear just below the swing out rear window. Thanks for the info. Dan

Hello! I cannot find the paper work. I ordered everything when I purchased the tractor. Your dealer will be able to pull up the BH77 parts list diagram and identify everything you will need. It's my understanding that the BH77s are shipped with both curved and straight levers, so you may not need to order those. Sorry I could not help more. Any other questions, please feel free to ask.

Hey Daniel, I do not have spacers, but I do have the oversized tires that add width and height. You should be fine.

@@sweatequitylife OK, so you have added width too then. Those tire look great when viewing from the rear while tilling. Thanks Dave. Dan

Thanks Nick! Hopefully this will help you...Important note - my 2610 has the oversized tires and which increase the height of mounts. Bottom of pins on mine are 16" from floor. I would specifically measure your backhoe at the base of the stabilizers (this is your pivot point) to the floor and subtract 2" and make that the height of dolly. Will have to consider board thickness, stacking and wheel height to achieve the desired height. I went with HD wheels that are rubber and filled with foam because of a lip at base of garage doors. They are more forgiving with little obstacles. Wheel height is 9.5" and ordered from Amazon. The tractor end is 2 stacked - 2X6s 38" long. The bucket end is 2 stacked - 2X6s 22.5" long. The V is 2X4s spaced so that the backhoe base of boom will sit in between when lowered and attached to the bottom side of 2X6s. Overall, I wouldn't change anything with this particular dolly. It is solid and has worked great and makes hook up much easier. I would consider making another one that is a 2 piece (separate dollies for base and boom/bucket). The only reason for it would be that it may fit in my garage space better with the boom angled at 90 degrees. Let me know if you need anymore info. Thanks for watching!

@@sweatequitylife Thanks for the help…I have the oversized tire setup as well since I will never add a belly mower. I feel the oversized tires fit the tractor size better. I understand what u mean about trying to make a 2 piece setup to save in room. I have the cab version so my backhoe assembly is about 10” longer because of separate seat. I’ll try to figure something out with turning backhoe to a 90°. Thank u, I’ll keep u posted. Nick from PA as well!!!

@@Mtntopwoodshop Definitely agree with your tire comment. My only concern with the 2 piece dolly and the 90 degree angle is tipping stability. Yes, you are not far from me. I saw your Instagram posts and you do awesome work! I thought to myself, "this guy doesn't need me" LOL

18 ft

Thanks Daniel....The rack is 88" length x 43" deep x 92" high. Go as big as you can for the space you want to put it. I was limited by a set of stairs and a fireplace protrusion.

​​​@@sweatequitylife Hi Dave. I have located a 10' high x 10' wide rack system I believe it is between 42" - 48" deep. Getting it with 3 shelves and wire decking for all 3 shelves. Hey, where did you get the magnetic rake holders. They are cool... Never mind, I found that post. 😆 🤣 Thank you for posting... You lit the fire to get me going, which is much appreciated. Dan😊

@@danielrapoza8468 hi Daniel! You will love 10’ wide racks. Can never go big enough. The tool clamps are called quick fist clamps and ordered them from Amazon. Magnets are from Harbor Freight and used blocks of wood for spacers. Appreciate you always commenting.

@@sweatequitylife 825 for the Complete setup. I feel it is a fair price.

Thanks....Trailer came with bare treated wood. I used Behr semi-transparent waterproofing stain & sealer from Home Depot. The color is called Slate and if I remember correctly, I had them add more black dye to it. 2 coats and still looks good 2 years later.

Sealing and waterproofing, treated wood is a waste of time and money. If you want to stain the wood, do that.

Doesn't look like they will fit with heat shields just looking at it. Since you have the brackets and will be getting the heat shields, let us know. I am assuming the heat shield is most important on the exhaust side to deflect the exhaust away from hoses?

@@sweatequitylife my exhaust exits on the right side of the tractor so I could probably left the left tie down on. I'll have to see what the heat shield looks like and com3 up with a plan.

Thanks, Glad it was helpful!