@@desertspeed2934 you must be somewhere that an inspection is done because I have to have a plate on my 4 wheeler but you can't drive those on a roadway, aside from jumping trail to trail!
Thanks for showing it can be done without a $400 changer. I can change tubes fine but want to go with Mousses...but the cost of entry is just too high with the changers.
Man we've been trying to figure out why headlight bulb won't turn on with the tusk lighting kit. Everything works, blinkers, horn, tailight, but not the low or high headlight. Can you shed some insight. Its been installed on a 2012 wr450f yamaha dirtbike. Thanks any feedback appreciated.
The three wires on the control switch do NOT go to the three spades on the headlight. The black wire goes to the + terminal of the battery (or the red wire on the front brake switch). The white wire goes to the low beam (top) headlight spade. The blue wire goes to the high beam (left) headlight spade. Lastly you need to get a spare wire and a spade terminal female connector and connect the last spade on the headlight to the - terminal on the battery or the chassis for ground.
Yes. The two wire kill switch is connect-to-kill. So the green and black+white key wires connect in parallel to the factory kill switch wires, then you can use the black and red key wires however you want. Most people power a battery headlight or a street legal kit with it. Ideally it replaces the on/off toggle that comes with most street legal kits.
Just a quick question what color wires was it on the wiring harness that u tapped into with the multi-meter for the key switch was it the red n black wire
@@desertspeed2934 if you get 5 mins look at my vids happy to make another for you mate but I’ve wired the indicators to fuse to flasher unit to switch gear and obviously battery but the switch gear has wires in the plug for head light which the loom I’ve made doesn’t and also the loom doesn’t have anything for the rear light either
@@desertspeed2934 thank god lol you don’t understand how lucky I feel talking to you lol, would you at all be able/ willing if you can spare some of your time and knowledge helping me wire in a front and rear light both being 2 element bulbs, and 2x brake light switches, I’ve currently got about 80% through doing a on road rm85 03 but would like to be able to right it at night I have a look that runs indicators and had a switch gear so that’s on and working next I need to wire the lights up so they work and then into the switch gear, I’d also like to add a key somewhere like you did mate
i have one of these but my fuel line is short. i installed the pump the way it came out of the stock one. is it supposed to be facing a different way with the new tank?
You dd help thank you Tomas Fresno ca getting ready for ride didn’t realize needed to worm up first and yes a little oil spit ur t air cleaner only started up so over full you early help thanks I know quite a bit about these XR’s that’s just one thing that slipped my knowledge bank
@@desertspeed2934 thanks! I may be buying one of these next week lol any recommendations on what to look out for? Supposedly It’s been sitting 10+yrs Thanks by the way!
Buying a black Fender is the best solution. That or avoid LED lights. Halogens throw a longer beam that your eyes adjust easier to anyway. Pay the $ for a high output stator and quality rectifier. Other ways to wire it too. Keep up and I'll share then of you're Interested.
@@desertspeed2934 I've got some buell headlights on it. Upgraded 250w stator as well. Sorry for all the questions but would an early model crf450r black fender be a direct fit?
Hey desert speed, im 15 and just bought a street legal plated/titled everything 2000 xr650r. Hotcams stage 1, oversize radiators, more goodies to list, holes drilled in the swingarm and the clutch bushing or bearing whatever went out on the 2000 650rs is updated with the newer revised model. Is there any other reliability mods I could do to the bike to prepare it for longerish trips on the highway? I have it running 14/45 which is pretty tall as it will hardly do a 2nd gear power wheelie. (partly due to the crap throttle response from the stock carb)
No hot cams. There are clearance and reliability issues. Been there done that. Take the stock cam, remove the anti-kick and auto decompress and weld the two oil holes under them shut. Then take and drill some oil holes with a 1/8 or 3/16 bit Into the clutch hub assembly. Generally copy the pattern of the existing oil holes all around being careful to stagger them so the hub doesn't break. Buy the right foot peg reinforcement from precision concepts. Oversized tank is a plus. 3.2 to 4 gal. Avoid drilling into structural components like swingarms. Get 20% stiffer springs for your clutch, or 10% with added 1/16" spring shims. Remove the thermostat from the hose housing. Run your valves at 0.005" and 0.006". 68 pilot jet at 5/8 turn should loose the bog. Ditch the recovery bottle and use evans powersport coolant. Other than that make sure your maintenance is kept up and your wheels are centered on plane.
@@desertspeed2934 God bless man. I have the stock cam, the previous owner swapped to the hotcams because the auto decomp system was acting up. Didn't know you could remove it from the stock cam as I don't want it anyway and can start the bike easily using the manual decomp. I thought the stage 1 hotcams used the same valve clearance specs as the stock? Is the material on the hotcams just not up to par?
I have my key wir d to the kill switch also it’s a 4 wire key 2 wires separate a connection while the other 2 make a connection hen key is turned the other 2 wires are connected to the on off but I’m having trouble with hi beam, had turn signal and horn working but not anymore twilight listened plate light and low beam headlight work along with brakes
I am about to embark into something similar and your tutorial is mind blowing. Will you be able to answer me if I need some inputs along the way, which I think I will? I am mechanically inclined but not gifted like you are. I've enjoyed every second of your explanation. That video is dummy proof. with much love and appreciation from Haiti 🇭🇹.
I've got an xr 650r with tusk dual sport kit I got the battery charging and the brake light switches and turn signals working just wandering where to power my baja designs squadron ac headlight? It has two wires only on back of it and the control switch for the dual sport like yours has the three blue the white and black wandering how to get the headlight wired up where I can switch the headlight on? Do I just do what you did even tho headlight only has two wires In it? with one wire coming from front brake switch for power then the i guess blue wire from control headlight switch? Would that work? Any help appreciated thanks great video!
Red front brake stitch wire --> black control switch wire. Then blue/white control switch wires tied together --> red headlight wire. Then black headlight wire to ground. If it's the AC headlight you need to tap both wires into the same two (probably yellow) wires that come from the bike and plug into your rectifier to change the battery. Then the headlight will come on when the bike is running. If you want to do that same thing but through the switch you'll need to tap into one of the yellow bike wires --> black control switch wire, then tie the blue/white control switch wires together and --> one headlight wire, other headlight wire --> the remaining yellow bike wire at the uptrend side of the rectifier.
@@desertspeed2934 Thank you!! I really appreciate the reply back man!!!! Makes sense only part I'm wandering you said uptrend side of the rectifier meaning on the other side coming out of the rectifier like the dc side after power goes thru rectifier side wire? Or just other yellow wire going into the rectifier? Thanks again man couldnt figure it out you really know your electrical!! 👍😎
@@desertspeed2934 :). I'm just being a d!ck. It just looked like she purposely wanted to loiter in the general direction the camera was pointed. No harm meant.
Ok so you set cam in lobes down cam gear markings level with head and correct and chain on,and piston is at top dead centre how do you know its on the compression stroke? or does it not matter? also notice you donot have your cam tensioner in yet will it push timing out when installed and puts pressure on the cam chain? cheers
