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I’ve done it dozens of times, usually on the dirt bikes, and I’ve heard most of the humor, but the way she delivered the “pothole” joke was pretty damn good 👍
Good for the price. No complaints, had it for a long time now, cut a lot of metal with it and haven't had any issues. Haven't even changed the blade yet.
@@backcountrybeagles it is there spacer. But I am pretty sure it has more stick out on the stands. But you do have me really curious. I will have to find out tomorrow for sure
@backcountrybeagles i need a new box, or at least to rebuild mine because the seals are bad. When you put pressure on the steering it pees out fluid all over the place. I have thought about getting a psc box and pump but i just don't have $1000 to spend on it. I am thinking maybe a redhead box but i have heard good and bad things about them. I wish they would stand behind their products more than a one year conditional warranty. Honestly if you do ram assist, there is no point in having that brace on your box, it would just be added weight at that point. But maybe it would help stiffen the unibody rails... or maybe it would just get in the way. Lol
@@ProjectXJI think it would be useful still, I have hydro assist on my XJ. And I can still hear the frame pop once in a while while turning off-road, granted I still need to do the front frame stiffeners.
@jordantrujillo293 i would bet there is something loose somewhere if you are hearing popping noises. Check your track bar bracket on the frame side. That is the most common thing. The bushings in the track bar are a good place to look and also make sure your pitman arm is on tight. I actually had an aftermarket pitman arm start popping and it stopped when i put on a new one. I welded my trackbar bracket to the frame so i wouldn't have to worry about it coming loose or breaking another bolt.
Something to think about, I like to double nut my bolts when I run steering heims. I noticed your big stack of washers on your pitman I thought I'd mention that when I have room for it I like to double nut my bolts especially something I drive on the road.
haha you have a good eye.... those washers are just there because I dont have the correct length bolt yet, not a bad idea about double nutting these bolts. Were always fighting nuts coming loose on our steering, That would probably help.
@backcountrybeagles my nut is always coming loose too. It doesn't help that the box is always leaking fluid on it, lubing it up. I think i should put a little loctite on it and see how it does.
@@backcountrybeagles I don't know if you're gonna see this or not but I saw your response here so I thought I'd ask. I'm curious about your front driveshaft fitting have you tried that yet or thought about that? I just installed a new front shaft in my cherokee after doing a bunch of work and I lost a little down travel on the driver's side well actually a good bit almost 4 inches. I am running an atlas 4 speed but the front flange on the atlas is actually slightly lower than stock and my angle at ride heights is very good and not steep it's just the last bit of down travel that's the problem. Also since my axles are built to spec from ECGS my pinion angle in relation to caster is very good. The 1350 CV/double cardon just doesn't have quite enough angle so I'll have to run a shorter limit strap on the driver side or maybe find a higher angle shaft but this shaft already has a good amount of angle. I'm just curious if you might run into the same issue and I thought I would bring it up too so you can look into it if you don't have driveshafts yet.
I ran into the same problem with my iron man brace. I have a weld on piece running the inside of the frame on each side. I also have a slightly larger psc steering box. So it was a bit of an ordeal lol I'm also running a front bumper that I've had for I think close to 10 years now it's an arb from a range Rover that I cut down and modified it looks pretty cool actually it fits well and this past refresh I completely tore the jeep down to a bare body and wanted to redo everything and I was looking at new bumpers I like the ones with full protection like an arb and I just couldn't find anything I liked other than the Cherokee arb or there's a couple others but my friend was saying my unique bumper is sorta part of my cherokees identity so i decided to keep it and fix it up a bit and redo the mounts. My front end is stupid strong with all the bracing and stiffeners I do a lot of recovery work and I wanted to make sure I could do some heavy winching I've had a couple times where I've been a little leery under heavy loads. I also set up a rear winch too I haven't gotten to use yet but I'm excited to try it. I can think of a few times a rear winch would have been really handy for an anchor point or recovery. I had one really sketchy recovery in the snow it was actually just a normal car they slid off a bridge and I was having a hell of a time finding traction to winch them up it took like 6 hours. After that specific recovery I decided a rear winch was definitely going to happen you get way more control.
I didn't know the PSC box was alittle bigger...I've been lookin at them, thinking about getting one, but if it's alittle bigger then no way it will fit now. I'd agree I like the full protection, especially for just driving on the road where we are with all the deer and elk running around. I like those ARBs bumpers on the cheros. Everyone now adays seem to go with a flush mounted or stubby bumper....hmmm a rear winch does sound pretty nice...maybe I'll have to put that on the list.
I'll have to get back to you about the unibody height. These coilovers are setup for 5" of up travel though. With bumps I'm probably going to be around 4.5"...I'm a strong believer in down travel, should have 9" down.
@backcountrybeagles i have about 5" of lift and run 35's on my jeep. When i replaced my rocker panels i measured just over 24" of ground clearance! I gained 3" over my previous setup. I was pretty happy. I bet your's is significantly higher with the lift and 40's.
From what I heard, they are only closed to motorized vehicles because of overuse. They are still accessible to non motorized vehicles… and hiking,biking,horses. Ect., it is good land stewardship to close some of the far too many overused trails. So yes you can still see these places. You just have to work to get back to these areas now. This is of course my opinion and I am of course wrong. But that is okay. If you are part of the wheeling community you will say no trash ever. No over use. That every wheeler is also an angle and never leaves a trace. That’s awesome and we appreciate that. But not everyone appreciates the black tire tracks across the rocks. Or the leaked fluids….. Like I said. My opinion and I am of course wrong. Glad we got that out of the way. And….. go…
Land belongs to the people not BLM. Non elected government officials do not have these broad sweeping powers to make laws. People are proving that now to the ATF, look it up.
I'm still hoping to be up there for a winter shake down run for my build almost everything you've done so far I'm doing to mine 😂besides I'm running coil springs in front Ford 05 dana 60 5.38's no locker yet I'm running a 1989 GMC 14 bolt with disk brakes, no locker yet 4 link and coil spring conversion in the rear, your build motivates me! To get on it but welding in a shop that is a 13'x20' pole and tarp special in 106° isn't fun but summer is my build time but money is tight cause of building my shop, but hey ill geter done now watching you pushes me to get on my game and come play on the western slope
Sounds like a sweet build you got there! (Better axles than me for sure lol) Really would have loved to go 05+/14B but the price of these 03 axles were too good! Heat this time of year is absolutely insane...l guess at least you got a tarp over you so you're not baking in the sun! Hope to see you out on the trails!
This is cool ive been really curious to see this video. If you still have your carpet out you should remove the insulation off the carpet and add closed cell foam to the floor or even backside of the carpet. I know ive already mentioned this but that original insulation never dries if it gets wet unless its removed from the car. I did dynamat then closed cell foam on top for a waterproof setup in mine that way it can be dried. Im not sure i would run only carpet without insulation because of the heat and sound and such because i like a cozy interior. Search for closed cell foam sound deadening or insulation it doesn't really matter what you use it just has to be closed cell foam amazon has options. I used something called noico green.
Thanks for the pointers, I'm one for a nice cozy interior as well...at least in this Jeep. I probably will be ripping out all that old insulation and throwing some closed cell foam in there. I'd like to keep the noise and heat down as much as possible.
I’m no engineer but I would for sure say it makes it stronger, having the 2x6 biting to the 3/16 rather than the thin sheet metal. It does make the install easier though. Without the angle iron you would probably be there for quite awhile trying to line up that 2x6 perfectly… I don’t think it would go well.
@backcountrybeagles i am a civil engineer with a mechanical minor but i haven't really analyzed it. It would depend on how the stresses are oriented, because steel is strongest in tension. It could be really strong having a long thin area in tension, vs a large area in compression. For me it didn't really matter because i put 4 braces on easch side made from 3/16" rectangular tube. I know a lot of people run this style slider with no supports but i was not comfortable with that with how i use my jeep and wanting it to last no matter what i throw at it.
Pretty awesome video man.I've been following the built since the beginning i can tell you that I've used your xj as an inspiration to do some stuffs to my xj.
Im considering the same swap but wondering about overall width. Can you tell me the measurment of the total width of the axle? From lockout to lockout?
I installed OX lockers in the front and rear of my 99 xj along with chrome Molly axles and simply love them, I’ve got 4.88 gears as well and it is amazing off-road.
When you press the bearing on the pinion gear you can take an old bearing and pull the cage and rollers off, open up the inside a little like a setup bearing to use as a press spacer then flip the pinion upside down on the press and press the pinion down into the bearing.
85amp 5/32 6010 is softer then a 7018, so welding the tubes to the case with 6010 is better... 7018 cracks off the case tho does hold some fusion keeping something on it. those tubes are centrifugal cast roller forged carbon steel so they do pop like cast iron but can be cut in half and welded with 6010 or 7018 "120-140amp". Lincoln 7018 NASCAR rods have an upper range of 84'000psi so they work for welding the axle shaft as well... SMAW NASCAR rods? I used a bunch of boxes of Russian 3/16 7018 rods, measured them at about 38'000psi, they seal gas lines really good.
@@backcountrybeagles Air Liquid 5/32 6010, sticks freezes fills blow outs digs in deep turned up high... runs at 75amp up to 180amp using the old AC boxes. at 65amp it can be used to weld 16 gauge mufflers, 5/32 is a nice rod that can fill large voids free hand in any assessable position, just brush the dust off and it cuts thru 30 year old frame rust. drill bits and other machining tools also cut thru 6010 easier then some case harden-able cast iron.
