@@scottdc2105 yes 21 foot lbs is where it’s at, as long as it’s the plenum bolts and not the intake manifold bolts. The torque specs on The manifold are way higher than 21 foot pounds . Tighten them hand tight with a ratchet don’t go crazy , then follow the torque specs. Make sure that you use a cross cross pattern when tightening them . You will be ok .

@@905speedgta the specs i got after asking you tells me 105 to 115 in/lbs and from haynes 10 to 12 ft/lbs. after that i planned on 115 in/lbs, where did you get your specs, i came across a wide range of specs, its hard to get a straight answer on the net.

@@905speedgta yes i see 21 ft/lbs on the tighttorque websight but the majority values are in inch lbs such as 84 to 105 in/lbs, considering the threads are into aluminum much softer than cast iron i want to be very careful , i know there are two steel studs and only 2 bolts into aluminum they must be of uniform torque.21 ft/lbs is 252 in/lbs, twice of the average ive seen.

@@scottdc2105 I keep written / typed record of all of my jobs, as time goes on I scan them and uploaded the information to my storage online. The specs I gave you were the specs I used to complete the job. My engine was a 3.3L V6 and I had an aluminum plenum and aluminum intake manifold. With steel bolts securing them

@@scottdc2105 I just went on that site too, and I’m seeing the 21 foot lbs. the site data matches my data.

@@SFBenjaminK your welcome. It’s nice to hear these cars are still around . I’m finally beginning to see what people who are older than me used to say back I. The day about cars. They would say “ 10-15 years from now, these cars won’t exist on the road, everything you know and are familiar with now will change or be no longer” as a kid, you really don’t think about it, but as I got older, man were those guys right lol. So, I like to hear and see these cars from the past still going, makes me feel like a kid again lol

@@XDMIIIIIIIII yeah I do, I was surprised it was so low to the ground . This was a very long time ago. I got this car from an old lady who bought it new, she told be everything about the car. It was all original and not lowered or hacked in anyway when I got the car

In the video I showed two ways to do this job. You’re right, I didn’t show the part of the wiper trap removal, a key step in top removal process. I remember this job, I was so young, and that van was a headache every time something had to be done in the back of the motor or on the serpentine belt system.

@@dariankintz2889 that’s ok, nobody has to be a professional, in fact, there are professionals out there that don’t know what they are doing. Your best bet in todays time 2024 is to look on amazon/ EBay. There are some places that will sell you a kit with literally EVERYTHING you need just like I did here. Keep in mind, and this goes for anyone reading this and everyone doing a job like this on an older car. 1) if you can get the a/c system to work, by the U.V “ ultraviolet dye” it’s a 5oz injection can that generally comes in a kit. The kit includes a UV flashlight, and yellow tinted sunglasses. Inject 2-3 shots of that dye into your AC system and use the AC for a day or so. Then, in the evening pop your hood and go and check for leaks. Run the light over your entire AC system and look for the glowing dye on the compressor, hoses etc. it’s best to do this to know where all of your leaks are coming from, this way, you can be sure that your repair was a good one, and you replaced everything to ensure you did a proper repair . Remember this, most A/C leaks come from the shearer valves on the high and mostly the low side. I can’t tell you how many cars Ive just replaced the fill port valves and it solved the problem .

@@Lego70001 that’s all I ever wanted my videos to do is help people. I still have so many videos never published, and in March 2024 I made a very detailed video on replacing parts on my 2021 Nissan maxima. It’s hard to edit and upload these days, I barely have enough time for my projects, but I’m looking to get back on RU-vid making videos, I always loved helping people save money and showing people that no matter who you are “ work in a office, never touched tools younger,older, “everyone can repair their own stuff with the right directions

@@KZ3W that’s an Interesting approach, in short, yes you could, but it would be a big mess. Those injectors come out at a high PSI for those cups. I like your thinking, that’s problem solving by actually visualizing the operation of a component in a system working. Although a good idea, it’s a messy one and I don’t suggest you do it, although you could do it, I don’t recommend it. What is your issue?. If you just want to check for operation, go to autozone or your local franchise auto parts store and rent a NOID LIGHT KIT. You will be able to see if the injector is pulsing. If they are not pulsing, check your fuses, check your fuel pump. Let me know what you find

@@905speedgta .... Hey 905 ,, Thanks for the reply ,, and the added info on NOID light kit . I think I'm gonna go the route of rebuilding the fuel rail ( as per your directions , 👍 ) ,,, but I did pick up new injectors off of Rock Auto . Again , Thanks for all the info , and this "aged" video .

Forgot to add ,,,, I'm doing this rebuild , and maintenance on this old '99 van ,,, because the transmission was rebuilt about 5 years ago , and the vans body ( very minor rust spots ) is still pretty good .

@@KZ3W Rock auto is the best. In today’s time ( I’m saying this in 2024) you can’t go into the auto parts stores anymore to buy anything. Nearly everything is overpriced. And the mom and pop parts stores are gone in my location. No weekly credit, no “ can you do $50 instead of 65?”. The very last mom and pop is a junkyard I go to still to this day since 2005. And he told me recently he’s gearing up to retire. Oh, the good old days are almost gone, and everything and ever deal is online now