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Established in 2001, Universal Air Suspension is a Custom Air Suspension manufacture in Socal. Focused on manufacturing the best aftermarket suspension. Our Patented Aerosport slip-over bags and custom vehicle application. Come to us for the lowest drop, highest lift, and the best ride quality on the market! We make standard vehicle kits for most of your Mopars, Infiniti, Lexus, Toyota, Chevy, Chrysler, Dodge, etc. We can custom make most applications that we don't already have the listing for.
We are also warehouse master distributors for the rest of your air suspension components. Accuair, Viair, Slam Specialties, Specialty Seamless Tanks, Hoosier Tanks, Airlift Performance, Asco, ODE, AVS, Alkon, Camozzi, SMC, Dakota Digital, Continental, and Firestone.
Hi . Thank you for putting out this video! (I am also a newbie). I would like to install a VIAIR pump in a 5th wheel trailer. My rig has 2 12V batteries connected in parallel and, of course, no ignition switch. I plan to mount the pump close to my batteries and I'm entertaining the thought of connecting it directly to the batteries - of course using the fuse and Relay as indicated by the wiring diagram. Because there is no ignition circuit, I don't know how to go about connecting the on/off switch. Can you suggest a safe way to connect the switch? Thanks!
I've been looking at air systems like this all day and yours seems to be amazing. I'm a wheelchair user (motorcycle vs bambi 20+ years ago) and being able to drop the height of a vehicle to get in, then air up for going down the road or off road is something I hope to have set up in the next year or two. Your mods aren't just practical for normal users, they're enabling for the handicap-crew too!
This video was a life saver. I'm a novice electrician at best so when I forgot to document the wiring before I disconnected it to clean it up. Thanks! 👏🏻🙏🏻🍻
Im still confused about the power wire guage.. do we need separate fuse holders if we're running an amplifier? From the battery to the trunk should there be separate power wires with separate fuses for compressor and amplifier? Also im running single pump what gauge wire do i need if my cars 22ft (classic car) and what size fuse?
Yes you would want to fuse the compressors separately. Depending on which compressor your running (they have different amp draws), wire type (aluminum vs copper), quality of wire etc would all effect the "proper" size. Personally I would run an 8 awg wire.
Thank you guys for posting this informative video, the installer is very professional and thorough in his explanation. It’s very rare to find a company who sells and installs, give away trade secrets so other shop can do it as well. You can really tell they take immense pride in what they sell and want to make sure it’s done right. The second I can afford this setup, this is the person, shop and company I want my hard earned money spent with. Thank you.
Our goal is to help eliminate the bad reputation of air suspension. Assuming its at least a decent quality product, problems are typically from a poor installation.
It appears closer in the video than it actually is. After a strenuous uphill ride, there was no noticeable heat in the bag. We would be worried if it was near a catalytic converter or headers.
We agree. We do have an air suspension conversion kit if your maverick was AWD. We haven't had a RWD come though to build up the brackets. www.universalair.com/shop/ford-maverick-2021-2024-awd-solution-series-4438?search=maverick&order=name+asc#attr=2817
Just connect the output of the pressure switch to both relays for the turn on. Jump from one to the other or two wires off the same prong on the pressure switch.
Problem with the ac compressors is refrigerant has oil to lubricant the compressor. If you try to use it for air it will require good maintenance so it doesn't blow up. It will pump the oil out of the compressor and have to be replenished. Will also need to remove the oil or it will be exhausted from your valves
if your adding a second compressor to an existing system, you can either bump up your wiring to a larger gauge and run both compressors off the solenoid (like shown in the video). Another option is to just run another wire back and individually relay them. If you have an Airlift 3P/H system they do run a negative trigger for the second compressor which you can wire up to another relay (instead of grounding other post, it would go to positive since the controller provides the ground). To be honest, I would just pickup the harness that airlift made as its prewired and setup for the negative trigger. They stage the compressors turning them on one at a time to limit the amperage spike of both turning on at the same time. www.universalair.com/shop/al-27703-airlift-3h-3p-2nd-compressor-harness-791?search=2nd+compressor&order=name+asc#attr=
Watch out ofr that style of fuse. The larger glass fuses like those frequently have a bad solder join to one of the caps and will look fine, but only pass a small amount of voltage. Strongly suggest using blade fuses, mini blade fuses or a quality breaker.
Is using a jumper cables(4-6ga) physically bolted to the battery posts safe enough to run a Napa dual pump air compressor(90A) about 15-20ft away? Fused, of course.
Sorry for the delay. 90 amps, 20 feet away is a big ask. If that's the running current, I would absolutely not run that. Startup current is substantially higher. Online calculator says for 90 amps you should be running 1 awg for copper and 2/0 for aluminum for a 5% voltage drop. If its been hooked up that way, use the multimeter to measure how much voltage you have at the compressors while they are running. I would suspect that wire will be getting hot, or their amperage rating might be inflated.
This is how i have my system wired with the solenoid and when I turn my battery on my compressors go on with nothing else on. Meaning ignition is off so the ecu is not on. Even if I turn ignition on the compressors still run and the ecu turns on. Do you think it is a bad solenoid? I have a 2nd solenoid and it did the same thing. I am going to test ground and the solenoid. I am running accuair.
What do you mean by ignition when talking about the pressure switch. Can it be any 12v power. Like could I just splice into my power wire from my wire that goes into my amp
I would suggest away from tapping into the stereo system. It will tend to induce noise when the solenoid/relay is turned on/off. My go-to source for an ignition is the 12 volt power plug, aka Cig lighter. Typically they will be an ignition source (switched)
We avoid the products made out of Asia. The tubing we use is made in either USA, or Australia. Its more flexible and easier to run though the vehicles.
assuming your not running a huge stereo system it shouldn't be a problem. Best thing is to just check your voltage at the compressors with them running.
this might be silly but would it be possible to run the wire going up to the ignition off the pressure switch to an 12v on/off wire that turns on/off my subwoofer amp? it'd make this install the tiniest bit easier since everything would be in my trunk
The proper way to do hardlines is to flare them with AN, SAE, or JIC fittings. (AN Most popular). Make sure that the fittings/line your using doesn't rust. I would suggest Aluminum, stainless or brass. Not steel.
I put rubber fuel hose over all my plastic air lines will save you a ton of problems and I don’t use quick connects I use the Ferrell type and the quick connect type were used for quick repair on high way not a permanent fix but will get you home to change out and the shop uses the ferrule type .
Adding protection to the line isn't a bad idea. Typically its not necessary except if you have to run the line though high heat areas or across sharp edges. Compression fittings (Ferrule) are a permanent type of fitting, however, they are prone to improper installation (typically overtightening them), but when used properly they do seal very good. Personally I prefer a good high quality PTC fitting where servicing is easier and can re-use without cutting the hose and replacing the ferrule.
Universal; after watching your excellent videos I noticed on the Air Lift Performance brand, that the packaged wiring harness didn’t actually have any grounding specific wires to mount on my car’s frame. Do you think there Any concerns with this brand’s method of wiring and longevity for the compressor? I personally want rip into the harness and adjust to your vid.
They run the ground up to the battery which will be a good spot. I personally think it’s a little light on the gauge, but it should be sufficient as it’s decent wire. Biggest thing is if your running two compressors, pickup the 2nd compressor harness.
Currently we have newer Chevy 2500/3500, 1500, 64/65 Lincoln continental and Toyota hiace in production. We will be working on ram 2500 and 3500 for the next model releases. After that it’s the ford products. If you have any model requests please let us know.
Can I connect my ground wires to the battery if I am using battery only, no car,... externally mounted battery. And the compressors are the only thing connected to battery.
Yes, but make sure your not going to get low voltage as your battery dies. You want to keep it at least 12 volts with the pumps on. The more the better. Compressors will run hotter, and fill slower with lower voltage
@@UniversalAir Thanks for your reply! I have one more question: What is the best way to test the battery with multimeter...When the compressors are running or when they are off?
Best after the tank as water will always condense when it hits the tank. Drain it regularly to prevent buildup. If you get a lot of water out, do it more often. Only a little less is fine. All depends on the humidity in the air.
