AJ Aircraft brings you superior radio controlled aircraft with ultra-light but ultra-strong airframes made with the latest building technologies and designs. We went the extra mile to include features and hardware that decrease your build time and increase your flying time. In addition, AJ Aircraft brings you top quality customer support that you can rely on.
it bothers me there is only 1 bolt... there should be 2 bolts per wing or some other secondary retention.... my son lost his 60" EF Extra a week ago because the SINGLE Wing Bolt came out!! Yes... he snugs the wing bolts every time he puts in a fresh battery to fly!
17:00 I have called it "Ground Idle" and "Flight Idle"... the flight idle is enough extra rpm above ground idle that the motor doesn't die in a tail slide... and also the flight idle switch triggers my flight timer.... IMHO
I have a DuBro balancer but my shaft is 3mm diameter and uses a spring and fuel hose to hold it in place. This setup does not work for large props. Your shaft on the balancer and cones look larger then mine and you do not use a spring or fuel hose to secure it. Is yours shaft and cones an upgrade or different name brand??
Great tips. I do everything you say... but I use a plastic straw OVER the fuel line. They say it is the same plastic as the tank. I get the straw from McDonalds. So far so good. Using the VITON as a clamp works incredibly well!
I got an engine that I bet you would definitely struggle with… I have tried your method,, I’ve tried my method,, I’ve tried Gods method,, and it’s just not working… DLE222 The best I ever got to run, both needles out about 5 1/2 turns!!! And that was questionable… Even tore down the engine put brand new or MJ machine works rings in it and rebuilt the carburetors thinking that was the problem, to no avail still doing the same thing… At one and a half and two on both needles, it won’t even start… Brand new fuel lines clean tank installation… Just not working don’t get it… ever heard of that problem?
Anyone have any insight on an DLE30 that dies around 45%? It pretty hot where I live and after warming the engine up for about 5 minutes when I throttle up it just dies. It’s very abrupt and I’m not noticing any coughing or sputtering.
A quick question, if I may. I was dismayed to lose the canopy recently for my 3DHS AJ Slick 51. It's been my favourite aircraft since I bought it. I've just taken delivery of the latest airframe and am ready to start assembling. I'd like to reuse as much of the power pack as possible. It's a Hacker A30-12XL, Castle Phoenix Lite 75 ESC, Castle 10A BEC and Hitec 5085MG servos all round. I've been flying on 4S and it's been flawless in my old one. Is this pack going to do equally well in the new airframe? I appreciate that I'll have to enlarge the servo pockets, but otherwise should be a simple enough transplant. I very rarely used the old one to extremes, but rather used it as a sport flyer.
Ok I am impressed with this airframe. You have taken the things I’ve disliked about EF 48”/52” airframes out of the picture with this awesome airframe. Thank you for not using quick wing release setup IMO it is not worth the weight penalty for a plane this size. And thank you for going back to micro servos. Instead of that weird servo size that EF 52” airframe uses.
Very awesome airframes and I'm very interested in the new version. I have had four Slicks 2 were 51" only have the wings now lol but believe it or not I made a slope wing/plank glider out a set haven't sloped it but I have thrown it and it flies... I had the original 3dhs An Slick 540 and honestly no other Slick I've flown has flown as good. They are awesome planes that do crazy ish! I hope to own this version soon is the black and red in stock? Thanks, you sir Rock! Always love watching you fly!
Would love to see more smaller sizes like this. I love the look of the z200 and the new extra but the club I fly at is electric only because of noise so they are just too big for me
Thank you for doing this video an explaining everything through step by step it helps us that are starting into larger planes that use large props , happy flying
I love that you are going to be putting more videos out. I have owned your 3dhs aj slick as well as a few other EF 52in planes and am very interested in this airframe. Also interested to see what you have coming up in the 100-120cc size I'll be in the market for a new airframe in that class
Hey Scott. I just got my first aj plane. The new 93 inch 230z. The structure is different from the the older one in this video but my question is when you check the center of gravity is it still done without canopy?
Excellent video and great explanation of how to thue the engine and not have to worry about weather conditions to much. Seen foljs adjust each day the come to the field.
Thanks for the info! Forgive me if this has already been said. But the float needle/pump needle arm bend is really important. It determines how much fuel is given to the carb. Just has this issue on a ngh 9cc finally after a ton cursing finally got it set with the right bend on the pump arm
At1:00 in using a soldering iron to cut out the servo bay leaves loose covering edges that pull away and eventually lift up! much better to use a knife and leave folded edges Inward and iron them in so you have a cleaner look& will not fail.. .
Jeez it's not that critical! You're setting it up like it's a cyclic servo on an eCCPM heli! The throttle response/sensitivity isn't linear in a gas engine like it is on an electric motor. The RPM is way more sensitive at low throttle than it is at high! Yes you can dial that out in your throttle curve but not all radios have an adjustable throttle curve, my DX7 for example, plus you'll lose resolution doing it that way unless you have very expensive TX and throttle servos! What I do is set my throttle arm at 70-80 degrees to the push rod at idle, that way, the push rods travel ramps up towards full throttle and half stick is around 1/3 throttle on the carb. You then get a nice controllable low end (where you spend most of your time), and quick response when you need to punch it. You'll have probably noticed you don't gain much rpm from half throttle to full but you gain almost full range from idle to half stick/throttle.
If your engine is dying going from full throttle to idle, you're probably too rich on the high. If the opposite happens and it takes a while for the idle to settle down after full throttle, you're probably too lean on the high. If you can't get a low idle without stalling you're probably too lean on the low, it'll also die or hesitate when going to full throttle quickly. If the idle slowly gets lower, engine remains cool and sounds rough, inconsistent and 'four strokey' at low throttle just off idle, you're probably too rich on the low. Don't be afraid to move the needles in 1/4 - 1/2 turns for a better contrast of what each needle does to the tune, just don't run it for long with needles drastically out of range. Sometimes you need to find where lean and rich are so you can narrow down the sweet spot for the needle settings.
I have a 25cc gas engine I want to put on a Slick airframe. My intent is XA and 3D flight. What size airframe would you recommend, and what brands are out there besides AJ, Phoenix, PilotRC, and Extreme Flight? I feel like a 67"-70" airframe would be perfect, but I don't want to get something that will fall apart.
So how do you tune a Dual carb Engine I have a DA-200 and cannot make it run properly , I don't know how to tell.if it's the front or rear carb thay needs adjustment
Waited as long as I could for a 105 inch laser 230, ended up going with an Extreme Flight. Are there planes on order? If so any idea of when they might arrive?
