Proper way to remove lug nuts is break lug nut or that center lock on the ground and to re torque when tire barely meets the ground. Don't use that cheap clamp on brake pedal especially on that expensive and potentially damage your seat material.
Yo, it's nothing to clean off and replace anti-seize. Yeah there's dry lubricants in there but there's wet lubricants in there too that cook off during use. Now what's left degrades faster under further heat cycles.
Short Race Ramps, the product # please? stack of four (4) objects ??? to the right of the jack stands, brand name, part # of spreader? I don't want to have to re-watch the video again...not quite ready to do a wheel swap yet.....as mentioned below, inspiring video. 😁
I have been terrified to try this wheel change, but feel, now that I have watched the video, I can do it. I also need to rewatch this video a few more times. Thanks so much!!!
Thank you for sharing such a thorough attention to detail. I just picked up my first GT3 RS and was looking for help on changing these wheels. Thank you
In 1969 I bought an XKE with wire wheels and knock off hubs and a big lead hammer. Never felt comfortable. The next owner said, "Why are the spinners so beat to hell?"
Why Porsche just didn't use the CL Cup car setup on their road cars where you can use a normal impact is beyond me. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VpngNCMYC6U.html
Hi Jeff, I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit. The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00). Now the real question. If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer. The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here (1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer. (2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front. Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Deb
At 12:55. you do realize that is a ratcheting torque wrench and there is no need to remove the centerlock socket and torque wrench to move it and then reinstall it where needed.
Is it really necessary to switch back to the breaker bar to loosen the torque after you torque it the first time? I know Obsessed Garaged just loosened the nut with the torque wrench part still attached, he just didn't put any pressure on the torque wrench part. I just did it that way as well and it worked fine. That way you don't have to switch back and forth between the TQ wrench and breaker bar.
Is there a link to the inspection document you are paging through? The one with the green checks and the red "x" in it? Please post a link if you don't mind. Great video.
Great video! Jeff, how long are the breaker bar and toque wrench handle? It seemed like you were able to exert the force needed for 600 NM without too much difficulty? How would it compare to the force required for a regular car with a 12" lug nut wrench for 110 ft-lbs?
The five big studs (called "nipples" in the video, which is good, too) engage holes in the back of the wheel, taking all of the torque the same way that conventional studs work with a conventional wheel.
made it look easy...thanks...nice tip on rear wheel brakes....I heard front wheel can be done with one front wheel on the ground, so clamp on brake not needed...