It’s a ratchet, make use of it 👍 The ratchet function will keep you from unnecessarily removing and repositioning the socket. Also, at certain intervals you have to dismantle and clean the center locks-there is a very thin washer that at first you might think is not there- Follow the detailed instructions on which parts get or do not get the Optimol and how much to apply. Don’t use any other “grease”. Wheels off the ground only as you did-many people are tempted to “crack them loose” on the ground. Porsche is very specific about this. Once you get used to the system, with discipline, it’s a sort of ritual. And you want to trust yourself to do it correctly, your life depends on it👍
I really appreciate men like you taking the time out to throw some free knowledge at us guys that dream of owning a car like this one day. Hell, I'd pay just to meet you and shake your hand. When I was stationed in Iraq these are the type of videos I will watch to remind me of home and the good people I serve and protected. Now as an over the road truck driver I only dream that one day a car like this will pass me by so I can roll my window down to hear it. cheers brother!!
Thanks Jeff. I getting a 2015 GT3 in about 60 days and this video was an excellent find on my quest to absorb as much information on the car!! Kudos to you for taking the time and sharing...
I have been terrified to try this wheel change, but feel, now that I have watched the video, I can do it. I also need to rewatch this video a few more times. Thanks so much!!!
Thank you for sharing such a thorough attention to detail. I just picked up my first GT3 RS and was looking for help on changing these wheels. Thank you
Is there a link to the inspection document you are paging through? The one with the green checks and the red "x" in it? Please post a link if you don't mind. Great video.
made it look easy...thanks...nice tip on rear wheel brakes....I heard front wheel can be done with one front wheel on the ground, so clamp on brake not needed...
Beautiful car and great video. I was puzzled how to do this on my 911 Turbo S. Now I ordered the parts listed so I can follow the instructions. Thanks a lot
Thanks for the detailed video instructions. After viewing this I've decided not to get a GT Porsche with these wheels. It seems so much work to change a wheel.
Great video! Jeff, how long are the breaker bar and toque wrench handle? It seemed like you were able to exert the force needed for 600 NM without too much difficulty? How would it compare to the force required for a regular car with a 12" lug nut wrench for 110 ft-lbs?
Why are you not using the ratchet of your torque wrench? You made 8 manual movements on one wheel and at the end finally used the ratchet for a single movement.
Thank you for posting this. While I do not have anything with center lock, it has always intrigued me to see the procedure performed. Do you know if these are similar to Cup Car mechanisms? Pneumatic guns make quick work of it, so maybe they are just not concerned with small galling or wear if parts are just replaced at the end of every race. For now though, I think I'll remain glad I have standard lug nuts and studs to work with.
Is a link to the centerlock wheel sheets that you leaf though in your video available somewhere? Thanks for the heads up for that centering pin recommendation since I have those PCCB discs on my car. Now to get another torque wrench...will have them all then.
That's a big torque wrench with a ratchet head. Then why you have to keep removing the socket and re-position the socket every quarter turn instead of letting the ratchet head do its job. I would have thought your way defeats the purpose of using a ratchet torque wrench and have more chances of marring the cosmetics because you have to keep repositioning the socket as you tighten it to spec.
The Precision Instruments (PREC4D600F) is actually BOTH a breaker bar and a torque wrench. It has two handles that are interchangeable. One is just a breaker bar and the other is the torque wrench. They both attach to the same head which is just a ratchet head. So he's using the breaker bar to break the nut loose and the torque bar to tighten them. Though why he isn't using the ratchet function is also beyond me. Edit: He also put this in writing in the video at 3:26
Is it really necessary to switch back to the breaker bar to loosen the torque after you torque it the first time? I know Obsessed Garaged just loosened the nut with the torque wrench part still attached, he just didn't put any pressure on the torque wrench part. I just did it that way as well and it worked fine. That way you don't have to switch back and forth between the TQ wrench and breaker bar.
omg that's crazy, 1inch breaker bar & 1 inch torque bar , special wheels , special socket to remove the center nut , then you have to inspect the nut , nipples , hub surface & wheel seat :O
Hi Jeff, great thread and share. Can you send/post or share the "mdrums" CL document that you are referencing in the video? I am unable to source it from Rennlist, but still working on it. Thank you ahead of time!
Great explanation , is it possible you can send me the document of rennlist, or give me guidance where i can find it ? Hardcore 2015 911 gts driver from the netherlands, highly appreciated, cheers Rob
Yo, it's nothing to clean off and replace anti-seize. Yeah there's dry lubricants in there but there's wet lubricants in there too that cook off during use. Now what's left degrades faster under further heat cycles.
At 12:55. you do realize that is a ratcheting torque wrench and there is no need to remove the centerlock socket and torque wrench to move it and then reinstall it where needed.
That's definitely something you'd need to practice many times to get quick at it. If I was switching wheels/tires for track days, I'd have to show up a few hours early just to make sure I have time haha
No you don't. This tool doesn't shouldn't "work" on his car. Loosen lugs on the ground. Jack up the front, then rear, swap all four corners, snug the lug back up, drop the car, torque. Should take 15 minutes tops. This wanker is embarrassing.
Can you explain why you do not loosen the bolt when the car/tire is on the ground, jack it up, swap the wheels, tighten it lightly, drop the car back down, and then torque it (how I have done it for 30 years ....). I have never jacked up the entire car, but rather swap one wheel at the time (unless it's in a garage).
You can loosen / break the bolt free while on the ground. You can certainly do one corner at a time as well, however, YOU MUST torque these while in the air, then back off and re torque. I agree with 5 lugs it was always snug up then torque on the ground. Not with these. Snug and torque while suspended.
Would slightly loosening the center lock with the vehicle on the ground make it a bit easier, Rather than holding the brake pedal with the vehicle in the air?
after torquing to 450ft lbs, why loosen then tighten back to 450ft lbs? to spread the grease around better? Also what is the weight difference on your OZ wheels vs the stock 14 gt3 wheels? they look great
The five big studs (called "nipples" in the video, which is good, too) engage holes in the back of the wheel, taking all of the torque the same way that conventional studs work with a conventional wheel.
Why can't do initial loosen and final tighten with the car on the ground (like normal wheels)? seems silly to have to block the brake pedal with a spreader thing. Excuse my ignorance.
Never loosen or tighten with wheels on the ground. Porsche is very specific about this. Also never allow a shop to do so if you’re not doing it yourself-
Hi Jeff, I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit. The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00). Now the real question. If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer. The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here (1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer. (2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front. Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Deb
