Thank you for this video, very useful tips and ideas; mine looks exactly the same, but it reads in the sticker 7000 pounds, I supposed to have bought the M7K which they say it has "upgrades" but it looks exactly the same, I wonder if this company which has their products so over-fucking-priced is not taking me for a ride? - I only have the columns straight with handle and wheels installed, everything out of the pallet, have not decided position just yet, my garage space is 20x20 but it still needs to be cleared of boxes and clutter so I can work around. Got 2 cars to work on, one mini van 2015 Chrysler Town and Country and one 2000 Toyota Tacoma Truck, the mini van barely fits in the garage as it is 16 feet long! the problem is all the garage perimeter near walls have shelves and all around it I am already using 2 feet from the wall, in the center where the left column looking at the street from inside will go I have a clear space to mount that column, I checked the slab for rebars there and cant detect any, house is 1974 built, no idea about the PSI or how deep the slab is where the columns go but the slab does not have any cracks on it. I dont know how wide I should go onbliusly want to make it so when the van is lifted its side does not touch the Chamberlain Garage Opener unit right in the center of the garage, from the floor to ceiling I have 8 feet 7 inches, I think I may mount the columns centered 9 feet from the edge of the garage door closed, I have to have some space as the garage door into the house is on the left of the room looking the street from inside. It would be interesting to have the details for the concrete pad in case I need to do it, If I would have to do it I will do it myself, I got a mud mixer and would rent the concrete saw at home depot to make the cuts, I am praying I don't have to as I need to work on the van as soon as I could as me and my daughter we have no cars since the van been engine hydro locked since last summer, I only mobile by using my company truck but it is very limited; if I have to wait another month for concrete curing that would be a bummer but if it is needed rather wait whatever time than be crushed by the car! The van is right under 6 feet wide at its wide points from doors to door on center, so yes it is a big fucker for the space I have which it is not the worst I have seen either but will be a little tight. I got the ergo chair open box at $469.00 out the door, not sure how good will it be until getting it, then make a decision if keeping it, it supposed to be sell new on sale but Bend Pack did not wanted to assume any wrong doing so waiting for it to ship; got it paid last week and they still have not showed confirmation of shipment. Also got a 14 feet hose from them that paid $177.00 did not want to take chances with an Apache hose or what not but all these accessories and the lift itself, even at the home depot "special price" $3629.00 out the door, all is CRAZY expensive and they claim prices will keep climbing, so still got some decisions to make here, how is your lift holding up after all this time?
Looks nice, have you had any issues with the anchors? You took them off the bolt and hammered them in. That defeats their purpose. You are only getting the length of the anchor itself and not using any rest of the concrete. if the anchors are only 3 inches long, that's all your getting out of the concrete since they are not deep in it. They are made so you hammer the bolt in with the anchor, that pushes it as far into the concrete it can go. Then when you tighten it, you have concrete above it. As it is with them being hammered flush, there is nothing above it for it to push against and grab except for an inch or two near the surface. Just keep and eye on those.
I install AMD parts and other companies parts and have never had to do this much work. Never had to slot door Hinges. I have rebuilt over 700 cars. Did you replace the rockers on this car. It looks good either way. Good job and God bless you
I am having the same problems with my '68. There is no adjustability in the assembly so slotting the hinges is the only option. Looks like a Detroit Speed crossmember under the package tray. Same as what I have done if so.
Hi Dillan, thank you for the video. I have a question, is there supposed to be a small seep hole in case of moisture of any type collects in the drop offs....so it doesn't collect and cause any rusting over time. Thank you
Hello there! So as far as I know, 1969 Camaros did not have a drain port in the lower part of the drop off panel. Though I do know what you're talking about and have seen them on a 1970 Camaro usually filled in with a small circular rubber plug. I have seen people cut a hole there for draining purposes, as well as getting lost objects but from factory I don't think this year had them. Though strange enough, a 1969 Chevelle did have the little ports. So not sure why a 1969 Camaro didn't get those especially since they are so prone to hold water there. I will try and post an update video soon on the vehicle, just been super busy with life as of lately! Thanks for reaching out!
I will be needing quarter panels for my 69. Who do you recommend? I'm not big and fabrication body works so I would like to find something that will fit good. Any suggestions?
Good info. A few years ago I actually emailed one of the major importers of Reproduction panels and asked if the steel was phosphated (like GM panels were originally) and if the primer was actually an electro deposition primer ( which GM used). (E-coating, or electro-deposition coating, is a process by which a metallic part is immersed into a paint/water bath with electrically charged particles, where the electricity is then utilized in the deposition of the paint onto the part. E-coating works with magnesium, aluminum, zinc, brass, steel, or any material that conducts electricity.) A few days later I received a reply stating that the steel was not phosphated and the coating applied to the panels was a transport primer/coating and not EDP. Since that time manufacturers procedures and materials may have changed. By the looks of the rear panel in this video, the information I received seems correct, which is confirmed by the slight surface rust you encountered under the coating on the panel. Did you nuetralize or phosphate convert the rust before priming? I know SPI doesn't like or promote or recommend metal conditioner, although their epoxy is a very good product. I have some new aftermarket panels to install shortly, and I will remove the transport primer (EDP) but I will prime the bare steel with a mild etch primer followed by a 2K urethane hi build primer.
From Bendpack themselves, they said they were no longer adding the covers as there was too much variance from the weld tabs from factory on the posts/ where the lock levers sit. From what people were saying is that they were rubbing on the locks potentially getting them stuck etc. I’ve had mine off since the making of this video and no issues thus far, maybe running into them a few times when moving by the lift.
Nice work, thanks for the upload! Were there any issues with your fender to door gaps? Do you have original fenders? I have repop front fenders and there is a huge gap between the rear of the front fenders and the doors on the front.
Which epoxy floor? If we are talking about my garage floor, I sprayed the vehicle outside. If we are talking about the trunk floor/floor pan, I didn't care about getting overspray on it because I knew I'd go back and re sand all of the gray epoxy and go over it with black. I have been very busy with work lately, but I will post a major update video soon. I'll just say the car looks very different from this video haha.
Hey buddy. Just a quick question. At full lift what is the height of the cylinder sticking out of the loft posts? Trying to make sure itll fit my garage before i order
I’m 6’4” and I’m glad to finally see a review of a tall person sitting underneath one at full height, I was concerned I’d be bending my neck the entire time!
I went to my local Hydraulic store and gave them my measurements and they had all the adapters and swivels needed! Just make sure to get the correct measurement of how much extra length is needed along with how you're going to attach them and they should be able to provide the rest!
I bought it two years ago and the anchors they sent me were NOT weg it. It was unbranded chinese shit. Even the bolts didn't have markings. I paid good money to get real weg its and 10.8 bolts at the hardware store. The weg its were clearly more secure (they did not slip upwards when tightening). Get rid of the garage door openers and install jackshaft opener if you have low ceiling.
@@DillanFisher Good job on the restore. Just finished a 64 GTO drop frame off for my Dad, and acquired a 69 Z28 manual car from a great friend who passed away. I found your channel when I got the Z28.
@@ikcus That's awesome! That will be a really cool project! What are your plans with the car? I'm sorry to hear about your friend, but I'm sure you will make him super happy knowing you're getting to enjoy the car he loved. Good luck in your endeavors and I'd love to hear about the progress on it!
@@DillanFisher My Z28 is primer red. I will keep it primer red as this Z28 was called the primer red Z back in the late 80's and early 90's. It was my best friends daily. His daughter that put me in touch with this car has the counterpart. An all original 69 DZ from her father that has been kept in a garage since 1982. Black on back, 302ci, manual trans M22, and all original, except the tunnel ram, cam and two 550cfm Holley's. The cleanest 69 DZ I have ever seen. Original carpet, headliner, door panels, a very rare piece. My goal with the primer red Z is to get it back on the road, with a solid roller cam, 4 speed, and some 4:11s. I want to drive it as my best friend did as his daily. Down the road, it will be mini tubed with a big block and a manual. I just got done with a pretty car restoration for my father. I want to drive this one and not worry about the looks until I am aged.
@@ikcus That's actually super sweet, sounds like a great platform to just be a driver! I feel the same with this Camaro, just want to drive it and not have to worry. I know I tend to go super in-depth into certain little things but its all to make sure when I drive it daily there is no issues and can enjoy every minute of it worry free!
I think I’m going to leave mine with 3 coats of satin black epoxy, that way I can touch it up down the road if needed, not sure how raptor liner works or If you can remove it if needed, also if a rock chips it and allows water in will it hide rust forming ? All question I would have.
Those are some of my biggest concerns aswell. Raptor liner gets super hard, its pretty much a bed liner. I thought it might help make the underside look very uniform and ease my nerves about rock chips but you bring up some good points, Ill have to do some more research before applying! Thank you guys for the input!
on my 69 camaro i did the raptor heat and sound coating on the bottom of the car, i also did the entire inside including the roof and inside the doors. this made the car very quite to drive. well worth the money.
Hey Dillan I have a MaxJax installed in my garage like yours and have found out the hard way that those round puck feet are very dangerous! They will slip on undercoated and smooth surfaces easily! I bought the U shaped truck version from MaxJak, these are much more stable and slip resistant.
personally, i not that impressed with amd parts beings that they charge a premium for parts that wont even bolt on a car and they dont care about us as consumers i tried to contact them but no response
Yeah sadly theyre so hyped up but their quality is lacking on certain panels, some panels fit super well, where as others dont even get close to lining up. The best thing going for AMD right now is how available their parts are, theyre pretty easy to get and usually in stock but at a cost for sure.
