I think i was better off before i watched this rambling dark shaky mess. If this is a how to video. The only thing i learned how to do was breathe through my mouth and be ambiguouslly European... Whatever a code plug it's a big deal...
Hi stray benzes I got some good news. I wrote you some months ago about a mercedes 380 sec with a surging high idle,squats between drive modes...well the cause was a sensor n°0055457324,that manages the idle based on the temperature I guess but nobody really talks about his importance,I thought my car was fried. I went back with my old icv by tuning it because the new one was unstable. Now with a lower idle the gearbox works 10 times better
Hey buddy, good job! Many thanks for your videos regarding steering and suspension. One question - did you adapted the puller for the ball joint to press it into the steering knuckle? I mean in 15:35 - the chamfer there. BR from Germany, K.
My name is Dren. I have a 1975 Mercedes 450sel, and its currently not running well, I checked the spark plug cables and everything, there was a cable that was cut, I changed it and it worked okay for 2mins, then I shut it down and came back after 10 and it still does the same problem although the cable is fine.
Hmm. For an engine to run it needs fuel, ignition, and air. You seem focused on something electrical. If that is the case I would take a look what the cable you are referring to is connected to and if that is an ignition related part. Do you have a spark at the spark plugs? Test it with a removed plug that is touching the metal part of the engine and have someone crank the engine. Do not hold it as this can give you a severe electrical shock. There should be a strong spark visible at the spark plug. If it does have a spark focus on fuel delivery next. This model should have the K Jetronic fuel injection system. Trouble with this one is that the distributor is made from cast iron and that makes it prone to corrosion over time and this can cause it to not deliver enough or no fuel. Jump the fuel pump relay and turn the ignition on. Crack open a fuel delivery line at the distirbutor and push down on the mass flow plate. Fuel should flow freely. Be super careful as fuel is super flammable. Do this outside so you don't set your house on fire. Good luck!
That sounds like it is not getting enough fuel. Pierre Hedari made a great video going over the K Jetronic fuel system and shows how to adjust it: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D_G5qLK5qlXc&ved=2ahUKEwip1cOwqIOHAxXMj4kEHWOsDRkQtwJ6BAgSEAI&usg=AOvVaw0kggdi09hcqctmXR58HFVL
Fuse no. 3 keeps blowing all the time. I get no interior lights. where should I look to find the shortage ? Also. in the footwell in the passenger side. there was a conector that was heavily corroded. ¿can this be the problem?, idk how to reconnect the cables. ¿how can I know which I have to connect to each one ? Its a 1986 300e w124. Thanks!
Fuse 3 handles the parking/tail light on the right, inside illumination, the headlamp washing control elements, the warning buzzer, and the instrument cluster lights. So here go through one item at a time to see if there is an issue. I would start with the tail lights. The connector in the footwell may or may not have anything to do with it. What is the wire color and what is it connected to? Corrosion on wires can cause all sorts of other issues too.
@@straybenzes can I send you some pictures of the wires? The wires go up through the pilar passenger side I think. The wires are brown, green and yellow. Also, I had the headlamp washing pump disconnected because a I had a leak, can this be the issue? Thanks for the answer!
@@DarKXeroX13 Here is the wiring diagram for your car. procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-mercedes-w124-etm/Page 130/3 shows the instrument panel circuit. This will help you in eliminating the parts that could be the problem and the wiring colors are mentioned on it. You may want to invest in a power probe www.amazon.com/TopDiag-Automotive-Multimeter-Oscilloscope-Motorcycle-dp-B0BZ4HR34M/dp/B0BZ4HR34M/ref=dp_ob_title_def Hoping this will help you get started.
@@straybenzes I am very sad, my dear friend, and lately I have been unable to sleep because I have the same problem and I do not know how to switch between untying and tying. I ask you to quickly make a video so that we can learn from you and solve the problem Please help me, my dear friend
@@kalfoogaltmimi5043 I need to see if and how much footage I have of this work. I cannot promise that I will have anything and It may take a little while before I have another on coming in for this repair.
hello. is it normal that it always starts in second gear? and if i kick down pedal then first gear is shifted. c124.300ce 92 years 4gears automatic gearbox.gears shift very smoothly,but always starts on second gear
Has your car ever started on in 1st gear? If it has always don this I would say look at the the Governor Pressure Boost Valalve. If it is toward the driver side then it was build to always start in 2nd. If you have it toward the passenger side then you will start out in 1st. This will take removing the main transmission valve block which you may not feel comfortable doing. But this should do the trick.
I changed the air conditioner radiator, the compressor, and the pressure sensor installed in the tank, and cleaned the entire cooling cycle. It worked for ten minutes, then after that, the belt drive cycle became faster than the compressor clutch cycle. I began to suspect the condenser because it gets dirty during the rotation of the compressor. How do I check it?
Did you also clean the expansion valve or did you replace it? If you left that in place, did you flush the hoses going both ways, incessantly? If you did not than I highly recommend you do this. Change out the dryer and do not forget to put an ounce of compressor lubricant in it before closing the system up and putting a good vacuum on it for at least 30min.
@@straybenzes No, I did not clean the expansion valve or disassemble it, nor did I clean the inside of the refrigerator, but I did clean the hoses as well as the condenser and compressor. But I do not know how to remove the expansion valve in order to clean or replace it If I clean the expansion valve, will it work well or do I have to replace it? Please advise, thank you
On my w126 both headrests dont work, when I press the regulator button I hear a click and nothing else, there is no mechanism moving sound, any ideas what might that be?
Take the back seat cover off the seat so that you can actually see if the mechanism is moving. They are super quiet and if the plastic clips are busted the head rests will not move.
@@straybenzes for some time actually but now it doesn't want to start... I filled R300 gas but the fuel pump is spraying fuel non stop to the injectors which are wetting the plugs. I checked around and saw it's bridged and before I start it I would unplug it and turn on the ignition then for a couple seconds connect it for alittle bit for fuel to spray and it started but it's over fueling like really really bad, you can smell it in the smoke. So currently now if I had to start it , it won't start and I have been trying everything
@@divaanisrael3258 That sounds like the air mass flow meter plate is not adjusted correctly. There should be less than a mm air gap between that flap and the main mass flow meter body with the enginee off.
Hi, Ralph! You are the best! Do You have any of idea (I’m sure You have) how to fix headlining trim between C pillars? The mounts possession on the trim make difficulties. Greetings from Hungary!
My aux fan works fine when I turn on the AC (had a problem with the 0.2 resistor but I just skipped it so the fan works full speed when on AC). But it never seems to work for the engine! I leave in Crete Greece (40°+ at summer) and the car overheats at idle but not when I have the AC on. That leads me to believe that it's the fan. It never comes on if I don't turn the AC on, no matter low hot the engine gets. I've changed the coolant sensor (blue)... Any idea? Thank you very very much for the help!!!
@@straybenzes Yes, yes it did, in several occasions, I later found out that it was probably because I was running lean (had to adjust the EHA and change the O2 sensor due to lack of power and that also solved my overheating issues), now it only goes above 100° for a brief moment only the first time it heats up, and then drops and stays between the limits. That said, in every occasion where the car got hotter that 105° for several reasons each time, the aux fan never came on! I also did a "hack" with an 1.8k resistor at the coolant temp sensor, that's supposed to get the fun started at 95°, again didn't work.... 🤔. (W124 200E 89') Thank you so much for replying!!! And thank you for you videos!!!
@@straybenzes Not sure what you mean. You mean to trick the car thinking that it's getting hot and see if the fan starts? Like unscrew the sensor and put it at direct fire for example, good idea! Forgot to say that if I unplug the coolant temperature sensor (blue one) the fan kicks on immediately at high speed...
@@emmanuelkarantemoires2161 That temp switch closes as it gets hot. Strange that the fan comes on once you remove a wire. Other than that jumpering the switch is a good way how to confirm which and where a device is not working properly. Good luck!
Hi Ralph. the engine does not start if you do not press the 5:07 gas pedal.until it warms up to working temperature, it does not work at idle speed. 3.0l 132kw where is the problem?
If it is an engine with the KE Jetronic then I would say it can be the idle mix being off. Could be the a vac leak too though. Then again it could be anything from the main fuel pressure being off to a plugged up sintered filter element in the fuel distributor. When did this problem start? Or better, how did it start?
Thank you for sharing this video! At 3:05 where can we order the replacement plug/probe? Does anyone have a part number for it? I have a 2005 Mercedes C240 and tried replacing my car's outside temperature sensor. The new sensor worked for about 2 days, but now it's always showing a temperature of 180°F, even though the actual outside temperature is only between 80-90°F. Tried ordering another sensor in case the replacement one was faulty but the temperature is still stuck at 180°F.
By the way, the sonsor you need is this one: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0075421318.htm?pn=007-542-13-18-MBZ&bc=c&q=outside%20temperature%20sensor Unfortunately, the early 2000s Benzes has terrible electrical gremlins in the controls and wiring. I vividly remember a hair raising ride in a C class on the Turnpike with the power cycling through the various components and going on and off including the windshield wipers and main lights. This could be your issue here as well. Sorry!
Why didn't you just replace the bearings, now that you had it all taken apart? That is a cheap part. A completely sealed bearing - and it would be as good as new
Yeah, I could have. Fan and shroud were corroded badly. The other thing I have bumped into is getting the sealed bearings is not as easy as one would think. Oh, of course you can get really cheap ones - problem is that there is a reason why they are so cheap. Tolerances are inconsistent and I have found the service life to be questionable at best. OEM type bearings are expensive.
@@straybenzes I imagine it is a standard part. An SKF Ball Bearing is good and inexpensive. Such parts do not have to be OEM, and most likely they are sourced from companies like SKF or similar. I doubt Mercedes makes their own bearings
@@viggosimonsen You are correct. SKF and FAG used to be the OEM bearing mfg for MB. You are ok if you can get real SKF or FAG bearings. Most of the stuff you get online are unfortunately knock offs and those are not worth installing.
I believe this may be the issue im having in my 2015 Mercedes Benz i have replaced the pump n filter and still getting those problems so i think that may be it. I get the part today
My driver's window doesnt reach the top, it leaves like 5 mm gap between the doors and the window which is really uncomfortable cause wind blows into the cabin. Any ideas what might be the culprit in my case?
That is most likely the so called regulator. The last few gear teeth give in and the gear motor gear has nothing to grab and therefore the window will not go up all the way. The window guides can also cause this when the alignment is off, but that is pretty rare.
Hey Ralph I just got a new compressor for my 1987 300d. It came with a new dryer. I just replaced my dryer last year with a maple dryer. The dryer that came with compressor has no name on it. Which would you use.
Over the years I have had pretty good luck with no name dryers. Important step is to flush the complete system really well, blowing out the flushing fluid, and then making sure you have the correct amount of the corrcct compressor oil in your compressor and perhaps 1/2 ounce in the dryer before you put vacuum on the system. Good luck.
Certamente.TO A grande maioria dos problemas com o controlo de velocidade de cruzeiro resulta de uma falha no amplificador do controlo de velocidade de cruzeiro. Está situado debaixo do tablier do lado do condutor. Tenha cuidado, pois o controlo de velocidade de cruzeiro é específico do modelo. Fiz um clip para
@@straybenzes I got it running again. Put in my old fuel pump relay and it started working again. Good thing I kept the old one. If I let the engine warm up I can see some smoke come up from the back of the engine, probably from some sort of oil leak. It doesn't smell like engine oil. What could it be? How do I check it?
@@ChopsticksDIYGarden Yeah, think twice before throwing out old relays. OEM ones are getting harder and harder to find. The smoke situation is best addressed by closely observing the running engine and tracing where it is coming from.; Most of the time leaks have been there a while and therefor there may be a lot of old crusty messes building up over time. Sometimes there is no way around thoroughly cleaning that area with degreaser to you can start tracing the leak's origin better. Six cylinder engines of that era do tend to leak oil towards the back where the engine compartment firewall is. Could be a valve cover gasket but very often it is the head gasket.
Did you use the lemforder big nut/clips the ones that go in the hole in the frame ? I hear they’re an absolute nightmare because they have a high chance of snapping and spinning in the hole and then youre in an abaolute world of pain after.
I have not had any issues with any new sheet metal nut clips. I have had plenty of trouble with getting old ones stuck as the rusty clips come off. Pray penetrant oil, heat, extra long but small vice grips will let you get the bolt out. Otherwise you will need to use a flame wrench to cut it out which to me is the absolute last resort.
Recien en noviembre compre un MB w124 300e año 88 el cual tenia problema de consumo de gasolina,perdida de fuerza y enchumbaba las bujias,cambie esa cajita y arreglado el problema
Hi straybenzes,i have my 380 with surging idle only in park or n,once i put her in drive it become stable. Furthermore,changing from park to drive the car "squats" a bit,and needs more time to really engage drive mode or reverse. What should i check?
Btw I changed everything related to the idle,from the module to a brand new icv. Checked vacuum leaks,timing. I think she needs a good calibration of the k jet,because it also smells a lot. Now she idles to like 900/1000 but only in park it's like a mustang.
There is a lot going on here. Putting it into drive puts load on the engine and the idle control lets more air into the throttle which in turn opens the air flow meter and the engine gets more fuel that way. This could be a few things. It could be the air flow metering plate adjustment. Pierre Hedari made a great video about the older K Jetronic and how to diagnose it. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D_G5qLK5qlXc&ved=2ahUKEwjVjNSVtauGAxU8lIkEHaj7DQMQtwJ6BAgQEAI&usg=AOvVaw0kggdi09hcqctmXR58HFVL The rear "squat" is a frequent occurrencece and some of it you can improve with replacing all the rubber components of the rear suspecion. That is a job and a half though. The lagging in the gear engagement is typically clogged shift block passages and the two little screens in it. See how much junk you have in the tranny oil pan. If you see a lot of black flakes then that stuff can over time plug up the passages and screens. That also means the friction surfaces may be worn. That can be fixed by replacing those parts but it is expensive and shops who work on these trannys are not easy to find anymore. Good luck!
Pourquoi certains yeux de l’araignée travaillent et d’autres pas avec nous trouver deux yeux du distributeur sortent avec de l’essence faible et le moteur vibre deux en cours d’exécution Quelles sont les raisons si la noblesse a changé à l’intérieur du distributeur ainsi que l’oeil mesuré distribué sur 6
Je démonterais le distributeur de carburant et le reconstruirais. Il doit y avoir une quantité égale de carburant sortant de chaque orifice d'injection.
VE A PROBLEM 0001407160 THERMA VALVE BROKE THE PLASTIC PART CANT FIND ONE DOSENT SEEM TO AFFECT THE RUNNING ANY EXPLANTION THANKS ALSO MY IDLE IS D7ONG FINE THANKS TO YOU
IHAVE A PROBLEM 0001407160 THERMA VALVE BROKE THE PLASTIC PART CANT FIND ONE DOSENT SEEM TO AFFECT THE RUNNING ANY EXPLANTION THANKS ALSO MY IDLE IS D7ONG FINE THANKS TO YOU
Hey, Ralph! Another great video, as always. 👌🏻 I sometimes have the opposite - low, lumpy idle. What’s your take on that? 🤷🏻♂️ (1991 W201 M103, 140K mi, new plugs, wires, dizzy cap & rotor, etc. Overall, in excellent mechanical condition otherwise.)
@@straybenzes The adjustment through the top of the air filter housing? I’ve adjusted that myself in the past and, to be honest, it didn’t go so well. 😔 I guess my “adjustments” were a little too aggressive?
@@ronsuriano The symptoms described go with adjusting the screw too far to the right and left. You will need to make smaller adjustments and take a drive to see if it gets better. A CO2 exhaust analyzer would of course make that simpler and more accurate, but that tool is usually not in reach of a DYIer.
I recommend when one has a high-idle situation that the first thing done is a smoke test. Usually the high idle (up to 1,500-2,000 RPM) situation is caused these days most commonly by a vacuum leak, due to old rubber in the intake system.
Not a bad idea at all although only really badly worn throttle shafts or like you mentioned, intake rubber parts will cause idle that is difficult to control.
