"It doesn't matter what you take pictures with, the main thing is that you take pictures".
apertureonepointfour - the new address for analog, hybrid and digital photography - created by a collector who photographs more than he collects - or vice versa? On this channel I will introduce you to cameras, lenses, films and everything related to photography.
I have been involved in photography for over 42 years (as of 2024). I did my first apprenticeship as a photo cinema retail salesman in 1988 in the Bonn photo store "Foto Brell", but did not work in this profession after my apprenticeship.
If you have any questions about the content of the videos, if you disagree with something or if a mistake has crept in, please feel free to contact me. Thank you!
Please also visit my website www.apertureonepointfour.com / Instagram @apertureonepointfour
"Egal womit du fotografierst - Hauptsache du fotografierst". apertureonepointfour- die neue Adresse für analoge, hybride und digitale Fotografie
Good video but language is odd “I always exposed color negative film one step higher”. Why not just say I over expose by plus 1 or rated at iso 100 instead of box rating at 200. I notice that about today’s film shooter when they refer to aperture’s larger number they meant stopped down then miss term term smaller opening.
This is lens from 1989?? :O I am looking for buying some telephoto lens and this came accross to me, but I am affraid about its release date/age. Is it worth it? No stabilization.
Yes, I would buy it again. If you can find it for 200-300 euros in good condition, then buy it. As I said in the video, I don't use the AF/M switch because it is a known weak point and if it is defective, switching is not possible or only possible again after repair - and repair is usually almost impossible due to a lack of spare parts. Greetings Stefan
I inherited a 2903 from a friend and was going to toss it because of this issue. I have two other tripods, so who cares. But after seeing your video, I decided to have a go at it (I really hate throwing away something that can be easily fixed). Oddly, when starting to punch the pin out (maybe displaced 1/8"), I noticed the clamp would now hold the leg. So I thought perhaps the pin was made of aluminum and was bent. Alas, that was not it. The pin is metal and was straight. Perhaps it had to do with displacing the location of the knurls on the pin. At any rate, when completing the disassembly, I saw the clamping pad (two parts) had come apart. The little pins on the green grip surface were broken. No matter. The trick, as shown in this video and comments from others below, is to close the gap between the clamp lever and this clamping pad. OR, make the clamp pad a little thicker. So far I have only done it to one leg, but it seems to work. I cut two small rectangles of rather thin double sided tape and applied them between the black pad body and the green grip surface, ultimately making the clamp pad assembly a little bit thicker. I figure placing the tape between the two parts as opposed to the outside of the pad prevents premature wear of the tape by the clamp lever on one side or of the sliding of the leg on the other. So far so good. On to the next leg.
Small clarification. I just fixed a 2nd leg and found a small twist in the description above. It makes no difference, but just so people aren't confused when disassembling, the grip pad on this leg was white. Oddly it seemed to be made of a softer and more grippy material than found on the 1st leg. Anyways, the sandwiched double sided tape fix worked again.
I have a question, when you reveal the film, do you did something special? I mean, do you reveals the films as a 400 ISO or 800 ISO? Thank you so much ^^
Thank you for your question. I generally expose color negative films on the shadows, but slide films on the highlights, as slide films are actually intended for projection. With cameras that don't allow exposure compensation, like this Olympus, I always expose color negative films one stop more. So an ISO 800 film to ISO 400 or an ISO 400 film to ISO 200. The film is developed normally, however, and no correction may take place during development ("push" or "pull"). Greetings Stefan
Applaud the honesty! I still think that a real voice and the natural mistakes are way better than AI Voices. But hopefully soon in future, when you gain enough confidence, you can eventually use your real voice
Hi, I only have a Sigma Art 1.4 40mm with Sony E mount. Unfortunately I only have a few lenses that I can use on the LA-FE2 and a fast focal length is unfortunately not included.
The Tamron SP lenses are all quite good optical quality and were bargains when new. This 28-80 zoom is excellent, however the 35-80mm zoom it replaced was even better. In fact, it was as good as the competing Nikkor at the time. The 35-80 was offered for less than two years. It was replaced by an inferior lens because the market demanded the wide zoom reach to 28mm, so all makers were making this change at the time.
Many thanks for your comment. I really liked Tamron lenses back in the analog days. I will definitely buy the Tamron SP 2.8-3.8 35-80mm, model 55B, at some point if I find a good offer and then present it here.
Bis Februar 2017 hat man vom Großlabor CEWE für dieses und das 126er Format sogar noch rein optische Abzüge bekommen, also ganz was Feines. Ich schätze mal, dass die das entweder in Handarbeit gemacht haben (die Abzüge hatten hinten keinen Aufdruck und waren wirklich gut) oder für diese selten angefrageten Formate noch eine alte Maschine betrieben haben weil sich die Umrüstung auf eine digitale Abzugsmaschine nicht gelohnt hat. Leider wurde der Service im März `17 eingestellt, mangelnde Nachfrage war die offizielle Angabe, was sein kann, vlt ist ihnen aber auch einfach die Maschine kaputt gegangen. Übrigens, Pixelnet mach das Format noch, die Abzüge sind zwar nicht toll aber in Ordnung. Foto Labor Service Görner in Dresden auch, ebenfalls das Frankenlabor in Erlangen, Foto Sofort Tetzel in München und Foto Leutner in Wien. Alle nehmen auch alte Filme, sofern es sich um C-41 handelt. E-6 und SW machen Görner und Leutner auch, ungeachtet des Alters. Görner nimmt ALLE Entwicklungsprozesse, auch die alten Agfa, Orwo und Kodak Vorschriften. Das nur zur Info, ist vlt etwas komfortabler als das Ganze nach England zu senden.
Tolle Kamera, hab die auch, als Super mit 3 Wechselobjektiven, Blitz und Winder, bin aber mittlerweile auf eine Minolta 110 Zoom SLR umgestiegen. Gerade mit Diafilm eine geniale Sache! Nur Diarahmen für das kleine Format sind extrem schwer zu bekommen...
Tolle Kamera, hab die auch, 2016 für kleines Geld gekauft, erst letzte Woche wieder einen Film (genau den gleichen Porst wie aus dem Video, hab da mal eine größere Menge davon gekauft vor einigen Jahren, der geht noch gut!) zum entwickeln abgegeben. Macht Spaß das Ding! Und wenn man auf einen positiven Fortschritt von Ferrania hoffen kann, dann gibt es vlt. irgendwann auch wieder 126er Film, denn die entsprechenden Maschinen haben die noch, vermutlich als einzige Firma.
I hope I can find this lens somewhere for not to expensive so I can also use it on my Canon eos 70D because I think it's also a pretty good lens on aps-c cameras. But I guess a pretty similar but slightly upgraded version of this lens would have been interesting. A slightly better, faster, more accurate and more silent autofocus with maybe even a basic image stabilisation would be appreciated and I would like a little higher aperture with the same image quality. If a lens like that would have existed and would have been the same in the rest of the design I would definitely have bought it for a few hundred euros new or also second hand
Unfortunately, what you want comes at a price. You probably know the lens, Canon EF 4.5 - 5.6/70 to 300 mm L USM IS seems to me to be what you described. This 70 to 300 mm L is a fantastic lens.
For the eos 1n, when using with a Super Takumar m42 lens and a m42-EOS adapter with no AF chip the film won't advance. Do you know if this is related to the adapter or how it can be resolved?
Hmm, strange. The Canon EOS 1 series also transports films without a lens attached. I have just checked this with my EOS 1 models. An adapter without a chip is as if I were shooting without a lens, at least the camera thinks the same in both cases. So I don't think this is due to the adapter. Does anyone else have an idea? Or am I wrong?
Yes, this is a fantastic lens. Unfortunately, I don't own it and therefore can't test it. I would gladly buy it if the autofocus would work. Maybe someone can say something about it. Greetings Stefan
Yes, at least with my Canon EOS 600 and a lens adapter from a photo buddy, the acoustic and optical signal (green LED lights up) works when the subject is in focus.
Tested the Monsteradapter (newest firmware V2 was installed by me) with the Sony a7R V and the Nikon 135mm F2 DC (in perfect condition) and it hunts like crazy (when DC is set to 0, so the sharpest setting). No matter what focus field I've set and it happens in both AF-S and AF-C. It doesn't even nail the focus once, not even stopped down. Rarely you can see a green focus box somewhere for a millisecond, but it's unusable and continues hunting. It's like the focus is jumping over the target because the focus motor is just too fast and rough. If I prefocus perfectly manually, not even then it will nail the focus. It starts hunting like crazy. I would therefore say, at this time the LA-FE2 with firmware V2 is incompatible to the Sony a7R V and at least the Nikon 135mm F2 DC screwdriver lens, even if the website says the opposite. This should also apply to all camera models from the a7R V generation, so all models that uses AI processors for autofocus.
Wonderful video! Enjoyed it very much. Pentax cameras were awesome when I was a young teenager. You would see them everywhere.. But, When the medium format Pentax 645 came out it wad s game changer. I love this camera dearly. Thank you for this wonderful video. It was very detailed and learned a thing or two which I didn't know as well. God Bless, you.. Roger
@@apertureonepointfour He means he doesn't really like the voice being used, it sounds to fake. I understand what he means but it's not really that big of a deal.
Nur 2 Likes und noch kein Kommentar?! Schräg. Aber ich kann das so nachfühlen, wie gemein Algorithmen sein können. Ich fand das Video jedenfalls sehr informativ und hilfreich. Ich schleiche nun schon seit gut 4 Jahren um die Intrepid Kameras herum und kann mich immer noch nicht durchringen, ob das mein Einstieg ins Großformat werden soll...
In teh Contax RTS - Quick User Setup Guide I read that "Before film loading, turn the shutter control dial off the 'AUTO' setting.". What does it mean? Do I have to place the "A" (aperture) or in manual mode on the shutter speed index?
When I load 35mm film, I always proceed as follows - even with the Contax RTS: if possible, select the fastest shutter speed, such as 1/1000, 1/2000 or whatever the camera offers, select the smallest aperture and release with these settings, cock the shutter, release and so on until the frame counter is at 0 or 1.
Vielleicht hätte ich sagen sollen "für die analoge Fotografie gerechnete Objektive", so wie ich diese Beschreibung in diversen Fotozeitschriften gelesen habe. Aber ich denke, jeder weiß, was mit dem Begriff "analoges Objektiv" gemeint ist. Grüße Stefan
Can you simply leave the lens securely screwed into the adapter, loosen the set screws and then rotate the lens to the desired position, then tighten the three set screws?
@@apertureonepointfour What is the make/model of the adapter? I have one that I'm unable to remove the set screws. Thanks. I see you show 2 different brands ( Fotga/K&F). Which do you recommend for the procedure?
It seems to me it is better to loosen one screw out of three, turn the lens to the correct position and fix it. By unscrewing the three screws, you can shift the optical axis of the lens.
Ja, Schnittbildentfernungsmesser können gut verwendet werden, wennsie Objekte teilen können, z.b den Mast eines Schiffes. Wenn die geteilte Linie zur Deckung gebracht wird, dann ist das Bild scharf gestellt. Ähnlich wie beim Mischbild-Entfernungsmesser müssen beim Schnittbild-Entfernungsmesserzwei eingespiegelte Teilbilder im Okular übereinander gebracht werden, um bei korrekter Entfernungsmessung ein Vollbild zu erhalten. Bei diesem System kann auf teildurchlässige Spiegel verzichtet werden. Auch hier kann das optische Messfenster im Sucher eingespiegelt sein. Mischbildentfernungsmesser,: Über ein System von z. T. teildurchlässigen Spiegeln, bei dem ein zusätzliches Prisma drehbar angeordnet ist, werden zwei identische Bildausschnitte des Aufnahmeobjekts optisch zur Deckung gebracht. Häufig sind diese direkt in den Sucher eingespiegelt. Oder anders gesagt: Beim Mischbildentfernungsmesser muss ein neben dem Sucherbild eingespiegeltes Messbild des Objekts/Motivs zur Deckung gebracht werden. Teile der Antworten habe ich einfach mal aus Wikipedia kopiert, dort ist es recht gut erklärt. Grüße Stefan
Unfortunately, I was unable to determine this with the lens tested here. I was already using firmware 2.0. I also did not get satisfactory results with other tested lenses and another adapter. You can see this in the first update video. I hope for further firmware updates, but that's what the Monster adapter is known for.
Hi ! I'm looking for an adaptater for my Nikon Z8 since sooo long ! Thanks for your video ! May you share the direct link to the adapter. I have clicked on your link but didn't find the good one. Thanks, have a great week end !
Hello, thank you for your comment. The seller is from Germany, his name on eBay is fotohansi0172. At the moment he seems to have sold all these adapters, maybe you could write to him. Have a nice week too, Stefan
Hi, I just wanted to use the video to show you how this works. It's true, normally my videos always have sample images, but unfortunately not this one. Maybe I'll do that in the future. Best regards, Stefan
Thank you very much! This is the review that I was waiting for. Too bad the 80-200 f/2.8 is not supported because is one of my favorite lens. I can imagine the Sigma 28mm f/1.8 will not work, right? I guess I have to wait until more firmare updates come.
Ja, hier in Deutschland wird die Abkürzung anders verwendet... AFD stands for Arc Form Drive. Some early Canon EF lenses use an arc form drive for focusing. This is a conventional small motor unit, shaped to fit inside the curved barrel of a lens. A tiny micro motor has replaced the AFD in some later lenses.
Thanks for the Video, I'm not sure I would have thought to have taped the inside the Headstock Tube, instead of the actual Headstock Rod. (Save the fact that, that never seemed to work, or in fact work TO WELL!) anyhow I didn't have any Packing / Gaffers Tape on me so I used some Cotton (Woven), Gauze Tape, this held up till it eventually didn't. But unlike OP I suspect my rig is heavier what with the Gimbal Head / 5D Mk II, and the Tamron 150-600 G2 I'm at least 6kg if not a few grams more. So I will just have to see how that goes. Nothing's more permanent than a temporary solution, as they say. Any way as to the Legs? Yeah not so much! Not sure if OP had the idea or not, but removing the Lynchpin(s) that hold the Leg Clamps is a totally uncomplicated affair, with the use of a Punch, or just a plain old Swiss Army Knife, and a pair of Pliers. Once removed there you will find the Shoe Pad by which OP wanted to apply more Pressure to by inserting those dangerous pointy, and sharp wires. When all ya had to do was to put a bit of the same Gauze Tape (For me it was 3 layers that seemed to do it), and then close up shop the Pins on my Tripod just about went back in with normal Finger pressure, I might have used a broader tool (i.e. The Pliers), to fit the last 3mm in, and the legs are quite stable again. And the best part, your NOT F'ing up the clamps (i.e. the Green Bits), by doing that.) Going OT: The 29xx being Made in Western Germany, should be a clue as W. Germany kinda fell into history in 1989/90 so The Tripods in question are getting on around 30 years now. The fact they are still able to hold up that long is in, and of itself a testament to German Quality. At least when that was still a thing. Chances are if Cullmann are indeed still 'round, their stuff is likely pouring out of some Factory in China. Along with some others I could mention, like Carrera (Slot Cars), or Märklin (Model Trains). Needless to say the stuff of today, has nothing on the 'Vintage' (Homemade) stuff. /rant.
Thank you for the reply and the new ideas for repairing the tripod. The company Cullmann still exists, but I am sure that what you write is true and that the products can no longer compete with the quality products of the past, which, as you rightly write, came from West Germany. I wish you continued success and most of all fun with your photography!
@lchijoe2112 @apertureonepointfour Hi both, I found this video and your comments and wondered if either of you could help! I have borrowed a Cullmann 2904 from my Dad. It was missing the quick release and also one of the green leg clamps has snapped. I have sourced a 2903 which I can use for parts, but I’m struggling to remove the green leg clamps. Could either of you help? Thank you!
@@tommyvan Sure, the trick is to open the clamp, to take the pressure off. Then use a aue / punch / small screwdriver (about the same size as the Pin), and using that tool to press the Pin out the other end. Just enough as to be able to grab the end of said Pin with the Pliers. Like I said it was, at least on my copy an uncomplicated affair. Not sure if this could be done under tension. In the case of the broken Clamp. I'd say you have nothing to loose by forcefully unlocking it. I'm guessing that might be your trouble. There has to be something left to pry under it to open / unlock it. It's not like your going to break it more.
@@Ichijoe2112 that’s brilliant - thank you so much! I have sorted it now! The pin was very tight, but I expect that’s what 40-odd years of being left in place after West-German engineering will do! 😂
@@tommyvan Well if the Clamp is closed it's going to be tight, by design, and probably not great idea to force it. For that idea I work, the clamp(s) should be released (e.g. in the open position) to make the pin more agreeable to be pressed out. But, I probably can't stress the Pliers enough as the trick is to expose enough of the Pin, to get enough purchase on the Pin to. give it a gentle dental style yank. Also for the same reason, when you get back to the reassembly the clamp also has to be open to align the holes.
The light meter requires a 1.35V mercury battery type PX625, which has not been allowed to be produced or imported in Europe and North America for several years. If you search the Internet, you are sure to find a source of these batteries from Russia. WARNING! Import is prohibited by law and can be punished... If you don't want to act illegally, set the light meter to a voltage of 1.5 volts and use standard silver oxide SR44 or alkaline batteries. There are also zinc-air batteries, which also deliver almost 1.35 (1.4), but lose energy continuously after activation and are used up after approx. 6 months even when not in use.
I have already bought this camera model repaired in this way. Alternatively, you can also use a winder to push the fastener of the holder into the correct position.
