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Whether you're after a basic cruising Dacron or a performance racing membrane, our sails are trusted by cruisers and racers alike from around the globe. Starting with exceptional sail design, our process delivers sails with world class performance, shape-holding and durability. Nothing leaves our facilities without passing the Precision Sails Standard For Quality.
I rig my preventer from the boom end and go forward to the bow cleat, across the bow to the opposite cleat and down to the stern cleat. So the preventer line is on the opposite side to the boom I have seen several tutorials where they go from boom to bow cleat and down the same side to the stern cleat Is there any pro or con to either setup Thanks
My sail company correspondence Appreciate the note What pisses me off is the lack of attention to detail and both sails being incorrect despite all my efforts to confirm you had what you needed. As far as I’m concerned your pre production and production is a shit show with zero oversight. I earn my living running large construction and ballistic hardening jobs. I wouldn’t last if I did my work like precision. Look what yall did to me. Zach told the design/loft guys starboard for the sunscreen per his email I previously supplied. I also supplied 3photos of the slides with a tape measure showing mm and inches in the photo . You still provided the wrong size. Next thing that is seriously disappointing are the sail bags. They are just sized big enough to place a perfectly folded sail inside . I don’t know too many sailors with a loft available to fold em up the way they arrived. the sail bags should be at least 3 times the size supplied so one can stuff a sail into. The old sails had big sail bags I could go on…. I don’t like the culture that allows both items in an order to be wrong. Ds On Apr 7, 2024, at 11:38 AM, Jeremy Reaume <jeremyreaume@precisionsailloft.com> wrote: Hey David, I wanted to follow up after our phone call yesterday like I said I would. I see that Tony has a remake for the headsail under way and I will be sitting down with him first thing Monday morning to checkout the issue with the mainsail slides as well. I completely understand your frustration with the two issues, and my apologies for the stress this has caused. One of us will reach out to you so that you are fully aware of what we are doing to make this right. Safe Sailing, Jeremy Reaume Office: 1-888-958-5638 ext 113 Click here to schedule a meeting (precisionsailloft.zohobookings.com/#/customer/jeremy-reaume)
All laminate sails are susceptible to delaminating, the quality of the lamination process has improved through the years but flogging and chaffing are keys causes to delamination. Sailors need to make an educated decision between the better sail shape retention of laminates vs the robustness of Dacron.
@@PrecisionSailLoftVictoria in my case, dacron is out of question. Its more about is Tyra Ply worth higher cost vs Carbon sport, in terms of durability.
If you're measuring on grass, stake a long screwdriver in the cringle where you have the end of the tape measure to let you pull the sail and stretch it a bit.
Interesting concept and I find myself needing this exact solution now. I live in Spain and for practical purposes, I would do this myself. Could you please let us know more about the webbing belt to go parallel to the foot of the mainsail in order to re-inforce it????? what type of material is it? where can we buy it? Many thanks indeed. good video!
Between both options. What would you say is more dangerous. If you catch a big storm (like a hurricane maybe) is better to be in the middle of the ocean and let the boat drift or in a coastal situation where you probably feel safer but the wind can push you and smash the boat against rocks. Probably a silly question but I have been thinking for a while.
Thanks for your question. The best case is to avoid hurricane force winds if possible. My opinion... I prefer a coastal situation where you can get the boat ready by reducing windage (remove sails, bimini, dodger, paddle boards etc) This is often hard to do while sailing.
Good Morning, It's class size but the class calls for: (a) The ply fibres shall consist of polyester. (b) Stiffening shall consist of: (1) Cornerboards of plastic or aluminium (2) Battens of wood, plastic or GRP. (c) Sail reinforcement shall consist of polyester.
Good Morning, the sail is built to class size, however the class calls for: G.3.2 MATERIALS (a) The ply fibres shall consist of polyester. (b) Stiffening shall consist of: (1) Cornerboards of plastic or aluminium (2) Battens of wood, plastic or GRP. (c) Sail reinforcement shall consist of polyester.
How much does a sail like thus go for . I have a hunter 3r Nad am looking to swap out my mainsail and furler sail as well looking for prices? Please advise
Thank you for your question. Yes, you can set up a storm jib on an inner stay and leave it up. You would want to include UV Protection on the sail to protect it from sun damage.
Thanks I have one on a Hunter 27 and had no clue how to use it. It sure is pretty so now I know how to get it out. Now I just have to figure out how to use a spinnaker 😂😊
Not any rush for this, but I would like for my Triradial Battenless in Mast Furling Mainsail, For Offshore use, to have - to help mentally picture it - 3.5 Reefs. So that after the second reef is furled, and with foresail furled, so no Cloth at bow or stern, there is 1.5 left to heave to with, and if conditions-deteriorate further the next reef leaves 0.5 exposed right at the Mast, with all driving forces close to vertical over the CoG / Keel. I’ve had Heave To Broken too many times due to SeeSaw motion from forward and aft Cloth to have anything other than that any longer tbh. I’m thinking Challenge 9.11 type Sailcloth would be up to the job ? Once the Boat Construction is underway, I’ll be in touch with Precision Sails. You impressed me with the information you provided me with, Concerning Battenless in Mast Furling Mains, tbh. Keep up the Great Work. Bob. 👍🏴⛵️
Before I watch, I predict they offer no information on how to are decisions about reef points. Aside from call us so we get you on the line with a SALESPERSON, which by definition makes this nothing but an AD, which RU-vid puts an AD in before and after. This makes the title CLICKBAIT. Whoever is in charge of this channel needs to be replaced. Let me watch the video now and see if I’m correct. EDIT: I’m pleased to say that I was INCORRECT. Well done, much better video than some of the recent posts.
Odd attitude frankly. Suspicious even. I emailed them with a provisional enquiry concerning something a bit different and special, specifically an important non standard Mainsail I need for my next Sailboat, which isn’t even on the Construction schedule heat, and I needed to know in Advance whether what I needed - a Battenless Triradial in Mast Furling Main, could be Built for me, for Offshore Use. I got a very Prompt reply, with extremely useful extra information, that went above and beyond anything I expected. Do you Troll for A N Other Sailmaking Loft, by any Chance ? 🤔
@@brownnoise357, now who’s Odd and Suspicious? I really like your ‘…provisional enquiry concerning something a bit different and special, specifically an important non standard…blah blah blah’ sentence. A Simultaneously pretentious, redundant and run on the sentence that lacks any relation to my post.
Good Morning Stathis, Thank you for your question. The Velcro strap is used to reduce the amount of force acting on the clew slug or clew car (depending on your set up). By reducing the force acting on the this point you can manipulate the out haul more easily and effectively it will also eliminate the possibility of the clew slug damaging the track in your boom if you are sailing in heavy wind conditions.
@@PrecisionSailLoftVictoria Thanks for responding ! So if I understand well I should use both, the clew car and the Velcro strap in order to reduce forces on the car. Is that correct?
Doesn't sail shape matter? Like fat head vs traditional? Those percentages don't apply to all shapes right or am I thinking of this incorrectly. Also BTW thanks so much for your info on adding reffing points to laminate sails. You posted the only info I could find on it. Much appreciated!
You bet, every sail is unique. During the design phase of a new mainsail project, your designer will work with you to calculate where your reef points will be most effective for you, your boat and the area that your are sailing in.
My C30 has three bails along the length of the mid-section of the boom with mid-boom sheeting. With the loose footed main the upward load on the boom is near the end at the clew so this distance between the upward load at the clew and the downward load on the bail for the mainsheet creates a significant bending moment in the boom. Is there any concern about breaking the boom with a loose foot over that would have been in the original design with the fixed footed main that the boat was designed for?
Same question for midboom mainsheet here. On me 1960 Daysailer, Maon sheet pulley- mudroom is mounted atop centerboard case. Moveing Boom sheet attachment to Clew at end of Boom necessitates experiment. On 'Pirates of Caribean' Jack Sparrow enters onto an Engish ship. He stands by steering wheel. Over his head is double Mainsheet Pulleys or blocks leading down to port & starboard deck. Can mainsheet be attached to Clew and down away from Centerline ?
