1967 Chevelle and 1971 GMC Truck build! Edelbrock carb tech. Lots of product reviews and tech tips. Basics of how to tune. I’ve worked in the performance automotive aftermarket most of my adult life and have a unique perspective on how product is engineered and brought to market. I've owned my Chevelle since 1988 so follow along as it gets another engine and trans!
My website - musclecarsolutionscarbs.com/ My Amazon store with product links from the build - www.amazon.com/shop/bonehead Chevelle page - www.67-chevelle.com/
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THANK YOU for supporting me on this journey. Y'all are amazing.
I'll just correct one thing you said at around 5.30 ...you mentioned the vacuum hits the diaphragm which overcomes the spring letting fuel to pass...actually the other way around...vacuum holds the valve closed then when vacuum drops under load the spring opens the valve allowing fuel to flow...when vacuum recovers it overcomes the spring and closes the valve again. I'm guessing that was what you might have meant?
Hey boss man do you any tips on adjusting timing without a timing light. Basically I’m triying to get a sbc running right and somebody before me removed the timing point of reference on the timing cover so a timing light is useless. I appreciate any tips. She’s running in an old cuadrajet but I got my hands on a hollley double pumper with mechanical secondaries. Using your video as a guide to go thru the carb and make sure it’s good
Mixing different oil viscosity? I’m using Valvoline VR1 synthetic. All I can find is 10W30 and 20W50 Can I mix the 2 viscosity’s to make a difference viscosity? I found an on line a viscosity calculator and according to that with my 7 quart system. If I mix 3 quarts of 10W30 with 4 quarts of 20W50 I’ll come up with roughly a 15W40. Is it okay to mix viscosity’s like
@@johnweaver8470 nice to get away for a race. I haven’t gotten the chance to travel as much these past couple years to shows or races. I gotta fix that! 😉 More tuning videos coming soon!
Great vid, very helpful!! I'm going to clock remove and install on my '55 Chevy/350. I need to clock mine opposite side that you just demonstrated on yours.
Hello Muscle Car Solutions, thanks for the great video. I am on the fence right now with my stock 1990 Chevy 2500, I am having TBI issues I thought about swapping it for a Sniper or Etech, there have been more than a couple of guys complaining about the sniper , so I am considering going to a carburetor, I have always liked Quadrajets for stock engines, I have rebuild several back in the 80s and 90s, I never tuned one like you talked about I just figured they were set up for the engine they were put on. If me and my buddies modified our engines Holly was our go to choice. Now Holly has a Quadrajet replacement that has a spread bore base and larger secondary throttle plate. If I convert to carburetor I have to change the intake manifold and the distributor, I am fine with that. You gave me something to think about as far as the Edelbrock option. I need this 90 2500 to travel from the L.A. area to the most northern part of Washington a few times in the next few months for are retirement relocation. Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated . Spindrift
@@spindriff it’s pretty common to have issues with the TBI EFI from that era. It’s like having a flip phone from 1998. The technology is way more advanced and there is no more support left. So switching to a modern EFI will always be the best choice for a cruiser. As far as folks having issues, I can tell you that 95% of the time, it’s user caused. Bad grounds is by far the number one issue. It will fry an ECU QUICKLY. Even the self learning units can be a bit complicated if you’re not used to how to tune. So any issues, people tend to blame the part because they don’t understand how it works. I’ll eventually do a self learning EFI series of videos if I can ever find the time. In the meantime, if you’re more of a novice, using a universal carb like the Edelbrock’s or the Holley is generally not a bad way to go. You’ll need to do some tuning to help match it up with your application, but you’ll have no issue with that commute once you get the carb sorted out AND if you have the right support (fuel system, ignition/timing) to help the carburetor perform the way it should. It’s been awhile, but I’ve made the trip from WA to LA and back a few times in cars equipped with Edelbrock carbs. No issues.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you very much for such a timely response, I think I will go with a Caurb. set up for now, I already have a complete HEI setup intended for a car already sold, I will need a square bore manifold for a modern TBI anyhow so I can go that route next year after I am all moved up north. I can take my time installing and put extra ground straps/cables (good advice) from frame to motor and battery. Best Regards Spindrift.
Do you need the baffle plate on the AVS2 1906? I pulled my electric choke apart and I didn't have one, when I looked up the kit for my model I didn't see the baffle plate in that setup either?
Everything you say is wing with from the very first thing was how they all were 35 years ago. This younger generation really needs their hands held to get things running I see ..lol
I'm no engineer or mechanic, but watching a few of these videos, I can't understand why anyone would go with the flat tappets. I see they are cheaper. But how cheap is tearing an engine down and having to rebuild it? How much is your time and frustration worth? And, correct me if I'm wrong, but don't rollers have less friction and therefore more power?
@@kaddiddlehopper29 it’s the ramp rates that give the roller cam the advantage. Flat tappets are much different in lobe design. The reduced friction is just a benefit. The real HP is in the lobe designs. Like just about everything else, the technology evolved and is better.
Never seen it take somebody so long to figure out why they didn't like something but no real reason not to like it except for the fact that it's not what you used to seeing on a car repeatedly it's not what you're used to doesn't mean doesn't work or that it's not as good I don't care either way it would have just been nice to actually hear oh you can't do this because of this instead of... I don't know maybe I don't know nah probably not lmao..... At least we know now that we can buy one and it'll work.... With possibly easier tuning on the back.... THERE'S NOT GOING TO BE A LOT OF CHALLENGES AND THE FACT OF THE PATENT RAN OUT IS EXACTLY WHAT THAT MEANS GO GET IT CHEAPER SOMEWHERE ELSE BECAUSE IT'S ALLOWED NOW OTHERWISE WHAT WOULD PATTONS BE USEFUL FOR....., EXCUSE ME WHILE I GO SHOP AT 7-ELEVEN TO HURT WALMART ARE YOU SERIOUS DUDE SOUNDS A LITTLE BIT MORE LIKE.... WELL I WON'T SAY IT, BUT IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN THEN IT'S OBVIOUS ENOUGH. As far as deserving respect is the most hilarious remark I think., everyday everybody in America 95%, choose to go the cheaper route then the more expensive route for example landscaping roofing thanks for a laugh though... Einstein said if you cannot explain it simply you not understand it well enough....
My 1406 choke plate is fully closed and won't seem to engage at all. 12v is verified. The only way to get the choke to have the required opening is to rotate the cap CCW until it is at least a half inch past the scale. It's brand new, only run long enough to break in the engine. Any thoughts? Love the videos, very informative and no fluff!
Hey there, anyone who has knowledge. I am having a miss while giving throttle,in park with no load. It sputters and Boggs down , sometime it dies. Engine has good even compression. Brand new plugs, wires and distributor. I replaced the whole ignition system three times. So I highly doubt that’s the issue. Car runs perfectly fine at idle 20 inches of vacuum but as soon as the throttle opens 15-20% that’s it. Vacuum drops down. And the problem starts. I overhauled a 1405 and 1406 I see no difference between both of them. Fuel pump also has been changed multiple times. At this point, I’m wondering if it’fuel starvation or something else. Any ideas for me?
@@maxweber2675 with time (and good dyno data logging) the data shows the lowest hole on the lever isn’t enough fuel shot for even the smallest of V8 engines. Maybe it worked ok on the low power mopar stuff? 😆
It’s a rebuilt 390 Ford with what my engine builder called a RV cam. It doesn’t seem to matter where I hook the gauge up to it still does it. Had it hooked up at the brake booster port and then the front large carb port on the same carb as in your video. I’m going to check for a manifold vacuum leak tomorrow.
i'm going to have to look and see what springs are in mine. I should probably order the kit first. I did add a fuel pressure regulator and gauge. gauge showed 7psi, but regulator is supposedly calibrated to 6.5psi at the factory so i assumed my gauge is 1/2psi high and set it to 6. Before adding the regulator it was showing 7.5psi, so probably a little high for my carb.
My 440 stumbles transitioning into power mode, it got better with the heaviest spring but still there, fuel ratio is good according to the plugs. So what should i do?
You should do a video on setting ignition timing, I’ve done it multiple ways and I don’t know what’s right but what I think works the best is sitting at idle with a vacuum gauge hooked up I just turned it till the gauge was the smoothest reading
I don’t see the issue with phillips head screws, my factory original carter afb on my 66 Cadillac has phillips screws all around so i don’t get the problem there. Otherwise, for most of it, it seems like its just an edelbrock rebuild kit away from being good. Of course the ill fitted plugs thats not great, that rod that is pinched on both ends really is a detail to me. I also would like to know what you mean by one way screws ? I’m fairly new to this and i looked it up and couldn’t find what you ment.
@@simonw2631 there’s a reason why they all moved away from the Phillips head screws. Less chance of stripping out that engagement area. No, the Edelbrock rebuild kit won’t work with it. Staked hardware is honestly one of those details that they just haven’t realized yet. Why is it important? Staked hardware doesn’t loosen and head down the intake and into a chamber. Or get hung up on a valve. I honestly don’t understand people so willing to talk themselves into supporting a thief just to save a few dollars. In this case, to buy something clearly not up to the standard of an American made product.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok thank you for the explanation. I’m german, i value quality too 😂 i’ll buy the edelbrock if i even want to upgrade from my carter AFB. I was just interested in how good or bad these chinese carbs were. That pretty much gave me my answer. Plus, i’m gonna have to pay 8000 for a full engine rebuild in germany so i don’t want shitty screws to go mess my brand new everything up😂 thanks again !
Great review, thank you. I already have a small Vevor unit for doing motorbike carbs. Considering the 30l so I can do bike engine cases. On a side note and I am sure you are aware of this- water takes a tremendous amount of energy to heat. Even with a 2000w heating element it would take nearly 1 hr to heat 30lts to from 18 to 60 degrees c (taking into account some losses). Thanks again for the detailed review.
@@redgum78 on a review of a type of unit I’ve used hundreds of times, I know it can take forever. The viewer didn’t and it’s an important factor to point out. I always add boiling water to shorten that process. 😉
@@Doug-b4p Delphi and Topline are the two biggest. There’s three others that are much smaller but produce some automotive flat tappets. All made in the US.
