Brilliant video I’ve got a snapped axel shaft I’m hoping that now I’ve seen your video I might be able to replace it by myself I just don’t want to remove too many parts incase I forget where they go 😂
I found the videos very useful to refer back to when I was assembling the unit. If you can't record the disassembly take lots of photos, especially when you remove things to confirm orientation and part order.
The link is the solid yellow plastic piece from the ignition barrel to where the screw is inserted. If you look at 0:13 in the video you will see the plastic piece at the tip of my finger, it is the same piece that the screw holds in place.
I like your parts washer. Mine is in the kitchen. You really should install 2 drain plugs (drill and tap in the factory locations) so you can change the oil without having to remove the whole transaxle.
Hello, I have a K 46 transmission. The manufacturer says parts are not available for repair. How did you get yours? I have gears that are throwing metal chips and blending it with the oil which caused excessive where in the hydraulic pump and motor.
Have you tried to purchase parts directly from Tough Torque. I was able to get all the parts I needed as well as the magnet upgrade from them. Failing that why don't you try finding a second hand box that is in good shape?
Mine started slipping and whining after about 450 hours. The fill cap on the top had split and the oil was like chocolate milk. Getting one of the wheel hubs off the axle proved impossible but if you are opening the transmission it is not necessary to remove the hub to replace the axle seals. You can take the axle out, fit new seal and put the axle back in. I Replaced the axle seals and fill cap and resealed it up. I regret not stripping down the oil pump and motors to check for wear but it seems to work ok with new oil.
We considered doing that, however we felt it best to follow the manufacturers recommendation on return. We also wanted the return to supply both sides, the idea that the return helps to provide surface tension enabling the pickup to operate - if you have plumped the return to the open ports please let us know if it works as it would be an elegant solution
Hello, great job. I have toro dh 190 is the same gear box. When is flat land is ok , but when is little bet hill just stop .he thinks a bit and drives again and stops again. Do you know what the problem might be?
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo plein de détails en tout genre et vraiment très bien filmée. Ma transmission n'a plus de puissance, elle arrive à peine à faire avancer le tracteur même à vide. Elle n'a pas de fuite d'huile et je n'ai rien vu de spécial. J'ai fait la vidange une fois mais cela n'a rien changé. Je n'ai pas oser la démonter. Que me conseilles-tu?
I would open the transmission casing to see what's going on inside. If there is lots of metal shavings you have mechanical damage, if there is no oil then you have a leak that you didn't notice. These transmissions are prone to leaking at the wheel seals, so the leak looks like it's a bad wheel seal
I have an issue. How to you find TDC if the harmonic balancer has been replaced and it doesn't have a mark on it? There's no mark on the harmonic balance in order to align with the indicator on the engine. What's the simplest way to get it to TDC?
You can do it without the balancer, use your finger over the spark plug hole to feel for air (compression stroke). Then use a wooden dowel through the plug hole to feel for the piston reaching the highest point and then moving down, rotate backwards and feel for top of stroke.
does the piston come up twice then its the compression stroke? I thought the piston comes up once for first valve to open then down and up again for second valve to open then its the compression stroke. Or is is ok to align the distributor up as long as the piston is at the top at any time?
Delete your fan clutch. Dont waste your time. Install an electric fan fron an old 90's ford taurus. They push 4500CFM. Combine it from a high flow water pimp from FLOWKOOLER, and your jeep becomes cold-blodded. Will never overheat again. Guaranteed...even in the Sahara.
Take a look at one of our earlier videos, we considered going full electric and decided against it just before we installed it. Still have the electric fan shroud on the shelf. We did use electric fans on our CJ and they worked well.
Excellent video. My yth22v46 was barely moving at just 45 hrs. So I dropped the diff to put in 5w50 synthetic. Cracked open to inspect. The inside looked great. Barely anything on any magnet. Put back in mower, purged air and still the same problem. Turns out that I had a build up crap at the clutch linkage under the pedal. Once hosed out and sprayed the linkage, it runs better than brand new.
This video was very helpful as the Tuffy instructions are minimal. Let me add a few comments about installing in a TJ. 1) As Tuffy says, the drawer will fit in a TJ but not with the back seat. You can leave the back seat in, folded up. I chose to leave it in so that I didn't have to store it somewhere, but it is wasted space. There's about 2" space between the folded-up seat and the forward end of the drawer. 2) The back seat aft catches do have to be removed. The bolts will be re-installed through the drawer mount, but the brackets are left out. 3) Remove all the seat belt hardware for the back seat. The Tuffy instructions say the seat belt bolts on each side of the tub will be re-used, but the shoulder on those bolts won't fit through the holes in the drawer mount. Fortunately Tuffy provides replacement bolts that work just fine. Re-install the center buckle bolt, to fill the hole. 4) The Tuffy instructions talk about bolting on the left and right panels before putting it into the jeep. But with both panels on it won't fit in through the back. Turns out you can bolt on one or both of the panels with the drawer enclosure in the jeep, just lift up one side to access the bolts.
