Interestingly enough, I owned these two bikes simultaneously myself. I found the Madura to be softer and more laid back, like the comparison between a fast Cadillac and a muscle car.
Well, that Madura's engine is a lot more sorted and clean looking with their orientation of the cylinders. The Magna, you look at it and your not sure what you're looking at. Is that an industrial compressor motor stuck inside of a motorcycle frame? Wtf? I mean I literally, recently look at an ad for a used Magna and had a hard time figuring what the freakin motor was, especially when the seller called it a Nighthawk, HIP...
Interstingly, it's not the modern Fireblade that continues the 900RR legacy but rather the modern GSX-R750. Lightweight, nimble and powerful, the GSX-R750 is the closest one to original idea of the Fireblade. Even more impressive it's got the same 150hp as the last true Fireblade 954RR but from the 750cc engine and it's even lighter.
Hello adikxx, im having problems with my Suzuki rf 900 engine cutting out when i put it into gear. I have bypassed the sidstand switch with a bypass plug and still its cutting out. Ive checked the clutch switch but there isn't one on it. Could this be a neutral light censor a problem.
The two things i would normally go to first is what you've already done - side stand switch and clutch switch on the handlebar. Are you sure your clutch isn't dragging drastically? Engine can stall when clutch release is faulty.
@@Adikxx yes I think it's air in the hydraulic clutch line. So I bleed with the bike tilted on the side stand I've been told it needs to be upright so I'll rebleed it upright. I've also got a problem with no spark to the plugs and it was suggested I've blown the diode in the ignition barrel. Which I'm hoping is the reason why there's no spark
As info: The spring goes between the oil filter and the filter housing, not between the filter and engine. Also, the oil filter has a side with a center recess. That is the side that faces the spring. Cheers.
hey bud!I was wondering if you had to replace the carb piston diaphragms when you rebuilt your carbs? I am running into trouble sourcing aftermarket ones or new oem ones.
I bought my VF1000F new in Tweed heads NSW back in the mid 80s it was the blue 💙 colour it was one of my favourite bike's very smooth and quick for a sports tourer i road it regularly to Cairns and Townsville nth Queensland i regret selling her for the GPZ900 87 which I really didn't like so traded it on an FJ1200 later 80s which was very smooth reliable and fast im still riding an FJR Yamaha 1300 2012 which will probably outlive me i have many great memories of riding and cruising around Queensland and Australia on her
I know this video is allready 5 years old. But i wanna know if your bike (in case you still have it) runs still on E5 95 octan or 98 octan bensin? Greedings from Norway
Yep i still have it (1146cc engine though). Yes it will run fine on E10 95 octane gas but it's better not to let the bike sit for a long time with E10 in the fuel system as it has a tendency to degrade rubber seals and hoses. In other words, if you're constantly using the bike and burn off that fuel it will be fine. If the bike sits through winter put premium fuel in and ideally use some fuel stabiliser too.
I installed brand new clutch plates but it still keeps slipping. Soaked it in oil and measured the plates. Unfortunately i didn't have any plates with white marks so i think that is where the problem lies. It's the 3rd time now that i disassembled my clutch and i don't really want to do it a 4th time. Do you have any idea what i'm doing wrong?
1st question. What type of clutch do you have? The one with big 50mm nut holding the pressure plate? Or the one with classic 5 springs in the pressure plate?
@@KevinvN96 ok so here is what comes to mind: 1- did you replace the friction plates, steel plates and 2 diaphragm plates also? Ideally all those components should be replaced. It's recommended to use EBC harder diaohragm plates. That can help. 2- did you use quality parts? Cheap Ebay knock offs are known to be shit. Friction plates for example are slightly thinner which which means the whole pack of plates will be slimmer. This means that diaphragm springs will have harder job clamping the pack which in return means slipping of clutch. 3-friction plates should be soaked in oil for a few hours before installation 4-clutch slave cylinder can cause problems. Make sure that it operates faultlessly. If the spring inside it doesn't fully push the piston away your clutch will not be fully "released" which will lead to slipping. That spring must be strong and cylinder's surface should be smooth so the seal can freely slide on it without catching. 5.Did you torque up the pressure plate to correct torque? 6.Do you have the 2 large washers there ? One flat and other concave. Flat one first and concave one after pointing towards the engine. 7. Correct oil for wet clutch?
@@Adikxx 1. Yes I did replace the all the plates and the diaphragm plates. They are not ECB plates but they're genuine OEM parts 2. All OEM parts I've ordered 3. Yes I've soaked the plates for at least a day in oil 4. I redid the slave cylinder last year since I thought that was the root of the problem at first and I replaced the rubber and spring in there 5. I don't have a torque wrench for this kind of nut because it's too big so I just tightened it as hard as I could. It's also a bitch to keep the nut on the bolt because it likes to slip off. 6. they're still in there, I didn't touch those washers 7. Yes I do
@@KevinvN96 hmm that's damn weird to be honest as you did everything correctly. Check the thickness of steel plates , i think there should be 7 × 1.6mm plates and 2 x2mm plates. You can buy 2.5mm plates on Ebay to thicken the pack if needed. Finally i think it's beneficial to go for EBC harder diaphragm plates as they provide extra 15-20 % clamp. They're cheap on Ebay(maybe 15-20euros) It won't harm to properly bleed the clucth system. I hope you get it sorted. Shame we don't live closely, if we did i would remove my clutch basket and sent it to you for a test. If bike worked fine on mine we would know something is not right on yours. Sadly we're far away.. :(
Hi, if you lift the front (jack under the engine) you'll be able to feel if the bars move left to right freely without any catching/resistance. If you don't know how long those bearings were there and want to have piece of mind then just replace them. They're cheap as chips and it can be done with very basic tools.
@@Adikxx No, no. It isn't fine if you review a bike that is not in original condition and spout about it. . Ride one that is! You can try mine if you like.
@@Adikxx maybe. But if you change the exhaust on a bike you change its character entirely. Especially 80s/90s models. This is more true of the CBR100f than perhaps any other bike. The CBR1000f silencers are unique. Without the original exhausts you are not experiencing the bike as it should be.
@@Adikxx Thanks men oh and another question what is the best you can do (in terms of power torque you know) change camshafts with a gsxr's or put racing stage dyno jets, change advancer ignition, filter, exhaust, and ignition coils? i mean what gives more power and torque in the whole range ??? (im asking you cuz you seem like you ve done both on this 900) maybe you ve measured the diffrencies
@@user-vc6sq6ms8b yes i've done all possible mods in RF. I even built 1074cc engine, 1146cc engine and put 6 speed gearbox in it. All of those projects filmed on this channel so if you're inyerested in RF have a look in the playlist called "RF videos" yoo'll find full series of video there with step by step commentary. If you want to stay on tight budget just use gsxr cams, ignition advancer and maybe exhaust can.
Did you have a notch in the middle of your old bearings that's where I'm at and been dreading doing this however I know it needs done lol watching you do it by hand gives me hope lol vs all the special tools the book requires
I don't agree with the ergonomic criticism nor the higher bars. I'm 6'1" and think they are comfortable, you just have to accept the the riding position, not try to ride it like a touring bike. Had my 91' for many many years, and now own several others 91-95, both 750's and 1100's. If you want a touring bike, just buy a touring bike. : )
they are top heavy and prone to falling over when maneuvering on the sidewalk or in the garage. Because of this i bougt a cbr 900rr. All aluminium and lightweight.
So I put brand new clutch and drive plates and at random when riding and when I'm in 3rd I think if I accelerate at a higher rpm the bike will buck or jerk then take off as I'm riding but if I ride nice and com no ripping on it you wouldn't think anything is wrong do u have any idea what this is ??is it transmission but it only jerks in that one gear at higher rpm??
That sounds literally like the transmission slipping. I bought a project RF recently with faulty gearbox and it has identical symptoms. Usually (almost always actually) it's the 2nd gear that slips but if shift forks are worn this can happen in other gears too. To fix this you need to remove the engine and split it in half to get to the gearbox. Once you have the gearbox out you have three options: 1-replace worn cogs and shift forks , 2 -send the transmission to machine shop to have worn cogs undercut(and replace the shift forks), 3- buy another used transmission and hope it's good enough to last. I'll be rebuilding my bike's tranny this summer and will put a step by step video guide for everything on my channel so it might be useful to you. Regards
@@Adikxx thanks man that's what I figured I just wanted ur opinion first so long as I don't ripp on it to much it doesn't do it so I'll take it easy and do it this winter
@@user-gp3mz5dd1r Yep, bike can ridden no probs. Just be aware that whenever it slips it shreds gears and drops swarf into the oil pan so try to avoid the slip.
Question: I am now a proud owner of a ‘97 Suzuki rf900r. It was garage kept for 10 years. Hasn’t been started since. 15,000 miles never been red lined or dropped. What are my first steps to getting that thing road ready??
Strip carbs for PROPER cleaning and rebuild them with new seals and orings. Then all new fluids (engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, clutch fluid). New filters and tires. New spark plugs - NGK CR9E. That's a good start.
For three years in a row this bike was listed in the Guinness book of world records as the fastest production bike in the market. Top end speed was 173 mph. 0 to 100 mph in 8.3 seconds
