hi chris have done this conversion, but have a very rich problem. Tunning doesn't make much of a difference. Black smoke at idle and chogging like the coke is out black smoke with throttle. Possible wrong jets? maybe. How sensitive are they to fuel pressure? i'm running the SU pump. Thanks Russell.
Better in what way, isn't that a lot of unnecessary work? And no Stag parts are harmed in the stagweber conversion which has now been going strong for well over 12 years.
So, in summary, the original shoe adjuster was fitted the wrong way, which is why it slipped. The larger plate should indeed be reversed as pointed out by Milothedog. Since the BL Rom manual does not show detail of the adjuster fitting, there is no way to detect incorrect fitting. I have now corrected the adjuster, and the rear brakes are working better than ever. At least this video has shown how to do the whole job as when I looked for help on youtube there was no other video that does that.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in EU :-( In Germany the Green party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing petrol stations to only one state operated peoples gas station per city. From 2027 on the will even stop the production and the import of certain car parts as exhaust systems, catalysts and even stop selling engine lubricants!
As well as the top spring being incorrectly fitted which cause the shoes to spring forward, like you have trouble with in the video, the bottom part of the adjuster (the bigger bit) is the wrong way round. the curved inwards part should be facing the shoe lining. At the moment the wrongly fitted part is held forward a little by the bottom springs hook, meaning the adjuster can't return to the fully off position when refitting and setting the shoes auto adjustment, this also means the cutout in the adjuster part for the peg of the handbrake lever is orientated wrongly I also believe that the adjuster kit is for the Rover SD1 rear breaks which is very similar. Are these being supplied now as an alternative part ?. The SOC remanufactured ones are identical to the originals. Both errors are common mistakes that you often see on Stag rear brakes.
Thanks for your comments, there's a lot to take in there. Do you mean it is wrong in both old and new shoes? But as it is now all fitted together, it seems a pretty bad design if it can be fitted incorrectly especially as the ROM doesn't show the detail. I watched the Church House Classics video but Richard didnt seem to have a clue, so no help there!
@@stagweberVMad Just trying to help by pointing out that the adjuster is fitted other than triumph intended for correct operation. It does show it in the ROM but unfortunately the graphics are not that clear but it is shown.
@@stagweberVMad Yes, the curved part which is facing away from the shoe lining on both is wrong. the curve (cut out) gives the adjuster room to move backward while still allowing the spring to hold the shoe in place, and as I said the shaped hole is then reversed for the hand brake lever peg. If the adjuster is fitted correctly you will see that the spring hole is not partially obscured in the fully off position. as it is at the moment it would cover some of the hole until the spring is fitted and pulls it forward which is wrong.
@@milodog1100 OK I can see now that plate looks much better fitted the other way. As for the adjuster kit, I bought it from James Paddock assuming it was the SOCTFL sponsored kit. If this kit is available from the Rover, and fits and works (hopefully!) then a bit of a puzzle why SOCTFL would go to all the trouble.
How on earth they mass produced these brakes I don't know.I had similar probs as everything is a faff.BTW the manual says the top spring should go to the back of the brake shoes.I put the spring located retainers on with snipe nose pliers,but very awkward.
Hi Bill. The aim was to be able to offer a Stag EFI for well under £1k and this still looks possible. I road tested the 1st prototype myself a few times, just to see if there were any obvious problems. As I said, performance was very good from impressions on the road test. Because it still uses all the standard inlet system, but fuel is now injected accurately under pressure, with no venturi restiction, then you will be able to get more power and torque than before. What can be said about reliability? Well all I can say is that eliminating the unreliable parts of the Strombergs (float valves, air valves, vent valves) must be a big improvement! Contact me at stagweber if you want to know more or join our discussions on our Facebook forum.
Chris at stagweber (VMad) , thanks for that, sounds encouraging! Can’t join you on Facebook, but will follow your progress. Insurance cover and as I live in France the technical side of converting things get up the nose of burocrasy.
This system was installed on my own Stag and road tested last year. I was really pleased with the power and acceleration. Heres a short clip of it running (apologies for the rough video). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sbyQm2rGmrI.html
Have bought a stag with this conversion works fine but once the engine is hot on releasing the throttle the idle races and I have to blip the throttle to get the revs back to normal has anyone got any ideas ? It's a series 2 stag 1973 with a manual choke.
This is easy to resolve. Just email me at stagweber and I will get it sorted. Thanks for your feedback. Note we are closed for a few days so will reply when we re-open.
Best thing I ever done to my Stag, it drives, starts hot and cold perfectly and also better on Petrol than my old Strombergs, and no more dangerous leaks. If you are still debating whether to recon your SU,s or get the Stagweber, for me it's a no brainer.
I would not be selling them if I did not think they were a big improvement over Strombergs. But the proof is in what customers think of it, and you can read all those comments on the website in 'Testimonial'.
