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i wonder, is it possible to transfer white lettering with transparent background? i need repair back or my audio gear which is oxidated and corrode so i must remove everything, repaint and then apply lettering. is it possible to do it? the background is black and lettering is white, like creamy white.
@17:25 witch-king prone? that's only on a 1, but you rolled a 2. just after in the combat Imrahil only rolled a 5 so Witch-king could spend 1 might to win with better fight and then Imrahil can choose to also spend to make witch-king expend his last might.
Not very Mega... I think I use my introductory set and about 12 others I bought as singles... With a basic (40 paint) Vallejo set... My Mega Set sits in its box. I looked at and organized the paints, in the box.
I mean it's good, but it doesn't look dirty enough for a plague marine. Might be how much silver and gold has been used rather than say.... Bronze and dark gray metal
Question about in the ways. I understand good models will not shoot into combat when it would risk another friendly model. But in your examples givin no part of Lurtz was covered by Farmer maggot, making it so there would be no in the way roll. So would I not be able to take the shot?
3 up to hit with all elves except Thranduil and Legolas on his single shot. Or did I miss an FAQ I'd really appreciate? Those rangers need something to make their cost a little more worth it
I used Depths of Moria yesterday, me, a fairly new player against a friend, a more veteran player and he just couldn't get near the balrog ... I won both games quite comfortably against Fellowship and Minas Tirith ... an insane list.
I'm getting back into minis just to paint, and looking at their prices, I'm having trouble convincing myself to buy them. I keep getting this screaming voice in the back of my head that says "it's a 60-80$ plastic toy, and you're an adult!!"
1) Stop buying. If you do buy one mini, then sell 2 minis. If you don't, that means you don't want it enough. 2) Reduce psychological friction: reduce the distance between YOU and the PAINTING. That means: pre-scrape those mold lines, wash your minis, prime them. Then store them in sight. And list the paint colors that you need for each batch. All you need to do now is SIT DOWN AND PAINT. 3) CLEAN WORK PLACE.
Veers is very underrated in a Blizzard force list. With the firepower/distraction from the AT-ST, 2 units of bikes is often enough for me. Snows and HRU rock in support.
great tips. I guess my tip would be; Don't get caught up in doing everything for the gram, sometimes you just gotta move on even if its not perfect just call it done.
Hi Chaps, i want to get back to this game. Is the rulebook the same as the one that cam out for Pelennor Fields? Looking at Rohan, what should I go for?
The second rule is critical! The first game I played in the newer edition was with Isengard. I broke, Saruman needed to test, and I rolled snake eyes. I moved him off the table and lost a close game, but he's a Hero of Legend!
Thank you for your video. Did you ever try to do this on a black surface? I followed your instructions but the result is that the transfer is completely invisible on a black surface. Would you have any advice on that?
I’m opening my 501st Legion box, and for the Arc Troopers, what I see is six copies of the same sprue, sprue 2, which has torsos E, F, and G. For a total of 18 Torsos. I don’t have any copies of Sprue 1, which I think should have torsos A, B, C, and D. Is this a mispack? Is it different than what you got?
This is a great video. I'm too afraid to go to a local meetup and play some MESBG since I don't know a single soul. Building up a small army but no idea how to play :(
I know its an old vid and im hoping someone can chime in, but after buying my first model in 20 or so years i gotta ask, why is everyone making the model first and then painting? Back when i first started we'd paint each part and then assemble the model. Im so out of the loop