If the red light is on, the power supply front end of it is probably working fine. Could there be something wrong with the battery? Or maybe the battery charging contacts that connect to the battery, in the charger are broken.
Great video of complete cleaning and replacing the whole arm to the blade holder. Is there a way to replace just the holder part. Tried to pop just the pin but it must be a hell of a press fit.
Which pin? It would be best to just do what I did, but without taking the motor off and apart, that's where I screwed up. Opening the gearbox is only a few screws.
No idea. This was years ago, and not even my thing, so I can't just check. Tubular glass fuses are typically stamped on the metal ends the voltage and amperage. Might be impossible to read it without snipping it out and inspecting it.
Hi my name is Stuart I sell Caswell products in the UK from my company Surface Monkey Limited I love this video !!! I have found endless emails of problems when it comes to plating and all the videos generally show how there homemade products come out looking amazing bla bla bla but never the problems that everyone has I shall be definitely sharing this video a lot going forward. well done and thank you.
I never actively tried to, because I got that Caswell plating solution. I will say that it did seem to get better the next use and the next, but I kind of stopped there.
i just finished putting the exact same filter on my compressor spent about 35.00 and it was 74 decibels before with old filter and with the new 1 it read the same so it was a waste of time and $$$$
I'd never seen this before, yet I just knew someone had done something like this. I came up with this nearly exact idea independently since I run this thing in the basement, where I live and it is god aweful loud- I've built an enclosure for it and put it behind a tiny wall which has already made a huge difference (it is well ventilated with an air intake with a mini box fan and an exhaust for the enclosure so it stays nice and cool inside). Next is to run the intake out the side of the House so the intake pulls air from outside which should eliminate a lot of sound- then I was going to do this exact thing with the exhaust. I'm glad to see someone has done it and that it works so well! Thanks for doing the testing for me, I feel a lot more confident now!
Well done. As a professional inventor, I give you high marks here. I always tell people, do simple things simply. Simply trying something first, see what happens really works well in these cases.
It's never been a problem. The compressor pulley fan blows the heat away. The bucket has never gotten soft or saggy or anything. And this is in a full time mechanic shop.
Great video. I'd be worried, though, about particles of the foam going into the compressor motor. Consider wrapping air-filter fabric or 100% cheese cloth around the hardware cloth. Edit: I guess I should have read the first pinned comment - but rather than just checking it on a schedule, the filter fabric or cheese cloth, I think, is better.
Hey mine just failed. I don't have any voltage on the secondary side of the BCK2801 transformer. Is the transformer at fault or could a component connected to it be the cause? Every pin on the primary side of the transformer has 172v. On the secondary side they are 0.5v. I tested all the electrolytics and the leaded diodes and caps. All fine.Thanks
A transformer is a simple thing. Unlikely that it's fried, you would see and smell it. Each coil of the transformer should be continuous. Slim chance it just went open circuit, but you should check. On the primary side, is it AC or DC? It should be AC and it should be high frequency. Would be great if you could read the frequency. I would suspect the transistor thingy (it's the one doing all the hard work), but it might be the supporting circuitry.
The video was very helpful. When I got to putting the black front cover I had to cut out a small section of plastic to fit the new blade holder. My old blade holder was smaller. Seeing the hole in the end of the cover showed me the difference between our covers. It was easily to cut out with a dremel making room to slide the blade lock through all the way. I can post a pic if you want..
I like this except this type of foam deteriorates and will clog the air compressor pump after about 5 years. So keep a close eye on the foam, and possibly put a fiberglass filter between the tube and the foam. I think I'm going to make one out of a metal can I have in the shop. Thanks for the nice video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I have read every thing I could find and the one thing that comes up as a problem the most is contamination the first thing I was thinking when when you put the pipe in the nickel was that the alum on the inside of the pipe was going to ruin your solution I’m getting ready to do some nickel plating myself so I am nervous about messing up lol
such a brilliant simple idea....will have a look at mine and see what i can do. just wondering if you lined the interior of the bucket with a rubber mat whether that would help to dampen the vibration and noise further?
My problem was the solution was going cloudy and the parts were going black and green but not coating with nickel, this was after polishing, washing with brake cleaner, then acetone. I changed back solutions from shop bought nickel acetate, to my own white vinegar, and pickling salts electrolyte, then washed the parts in Hydrochloric acid 15% 5v 2amps and it's plating like a champ. (I added a capful of Ethylene Glycol too) I added 500ml of Lactic acid to my gallon of electrolyte too. Someone suggested it somewhere, doesn't seem to have done any harm
Neat. I'm guessing the first solution you were using was contaminated somehow, perhaps from one of your cleaning solvents. I've had no problems with hot degreaser solution as my pre-wash. 2 amps sounds awfully high. I bet you get a lot of bubbling, which leads to an imperfect surface finish. It'll plate real fast, though. I wonder what the glycol and lactic acid are supposed to do?
@@madmanmapper the ethylene glycol is added as a brightener, the lactic acid was just a suggested alternative to white vinegar. I will try again with a lower current and see how it goes
Hello Man, I have a 20V Dewalt Newer Style and I Beat it up pretty bad. Anyway, in place but it is wobbling from left to right like rotating freely. Do you know what I should look at to try and tighten up any bolts or fix it thank you sir.
I admire the slow, careful control you use when dealing with electric & electronic components. Can't be too careful or you'll drop something or break something.
All this would be gratuitous if you just tested the wire ends for volts. Most people would just replace the gas valve. You had to break it to fix it. I thought you were careful. O well. Whatever works!
Yes, but that would only put the noise pollution outside of your garage. Also if you're going to be using a long hose, I would advise going a size bigger than the intake pipe. Also, be sure to use a hose that won't collapse or go soggy.
DO NOT repair any gas valves. If the electrical connections are faulty get a new gas valve, If it look's like it has been exposed to water get a new gas valve. I don't know what is wrong with this guy but never repair a gas valve to save a couple of dollars.
You obviously don't know what you're talking about. A, some people simply cannot afford it. B, not all gas valves are available for purchase (in fact many are obsolete or on backorder). C, the electrical parts are completely isolated from the gas-carrying parts. So repairing the electrical bits is not at all dangerous. At WORST, you fuck it up and it simply doesn't work anymore. If you knew how these valves worked, you wouldn't be parroting whatever nonsense you are. Here's a piece of advice: don't talk about shit you know nothing about.
Is there a way to repair the valve if the valve is stuck? So mechanically if the open and close failed to happen, with 24v and a good solenoid, but no action inside the valve. This is not currently happening, just curious if that level could be repaired.
I don't know for sure. I'm going to say no. I believe they are designed not to be opened, like permanently assembled. However, the valve is just a thing that moved up and down in a tube. It should be possible to wash the valve out with a solvent.
Until I saw you at the end, I imagined a white bearded wizard like old person talking with relaxing voice, then totally surprised to see a young man is the source of that wisdom.
I have two of these both not working. Both failed almost exactly the same way. I was working in my attic and left it there during the week as I had all my tools there and the next weekend it didn't work. Ryobi replaced it once and it did it again. I've been through both of them. One has a circuit board with the r71 and r50 resistors talked about in another P117 repair video. I went through one of them and the high voltage header has 300+v but that is where the voltage stops. There's no voltage on the 2nd header. I've tried to check the 2nd header areas to see if I can find where there's voltage on the high side and none on the 2nd side. I can't find anything nor any evidence of burn or discoloring. I'd love some ideas.
That 300v should be DC, that's like rectified AC. Check for AC voltage coming out of the transformer. If nothing is there, and you have DC power on the high voltage side, it's probably failed in a similar manner to mine. Even mine, which was violently introduced to 240v, did not show any signs of burning. But sure enough, power was going into the switching transistor, but not coming out.
@@madmanmapper Also, do you have a source for the Click 1611 E199817 SB14.2 transformer? I've tried searching but haven't found anything with a similar footprint.
@@MarcMarchioli No, sorry. This type of thing is really not something I do every day. But I kinda doubt the transformer took a dump just being in an attic overnight. It if got too hot up there, I would really recommend looking at the electrolytics, but I doubt you'd get 300vdc if they were dry. Not sure.
@@madmanmapper I'm going to first replace the IC TOP256EN chip. It sits on the midrange header and is very heat sensitive and has a reputation of going bad.
What about actually just using a muffler or like one of those intake air ventilation charcoal canisters that they use for growing weed and stuff they have a big cell phone like that I believe too very dense very heavy very heavy probably not practical
I found this same issue after some diagnosis and troubleshooting. Moving the harness around would cause the solenoids to click. After reflowing the solder joints and while letting the furnace cycle, I found your video confirming this failure point. Thanks for sharing!
If you are concerned about the foam degrading, wrap the wire cage with Scotch Brite pads to catch the little bits before it gets ingested into the compressor. It is porous enough to let air to pass through, yet catch debris
why would the air need to go through the cage though? The air is not taken in via the sides of the cage, the cage is just a tunnel. All that needs to go through the cage and into the foam in the sound waves. So even wrapping the cage in clingwrap will serve the purpose exactly the same without having to bother with weaving scotch brite pads around a mesh.
Does it make a difference which kind of bird feed it is? Maybe a parrot feed bucket is a little louder? 🤔 Either way, great idea and excellent execution of a minimum viable product😉
This looks great. I think I'll be adding some mosquito mesh on the outside of the cage because i'm worried about some of the foam getting sucked on and i doubt my shitty chinese compressor can handle sucking debris
This is not good at all it adds a lot more restriction to the suction side which increases the heat of your compressor just deal with the fucking noise and be done with it
Ok, A: No it doesn't. That's bullshit, and you have absolutely no basis to think that. This compressor is in a mechanic shop, running all the time, and never gets hotter than normal. Been using the resonator for 3 years. There is no 'restriction,' I show it clearly in the video, there's a straight open path through the resonator. B: The fucking noise is a real problem. Hearing loss is not fun, and I have to be concerned for the wellbeing and happiness of my employees, because I run a business. You would know that if you ran a business, so apparently you don't and therefor you're in no position to tell me what to do.
I see the wood support being good, but I would have left the lid skelotonized, and no center opening straight through. Although much air is diffused in and out of the foam, pulling all or through as such would be quiter, but risk sucking in foam
