The biggest thing to remember about a compact tractor is to know its limitations . If wood is too big or heavy cut it . That's what we do make the biggest pieces manageable
Thanks man, they’re actually just harbor freight floor pads - the jigsaw puzzle lookin foam things, cut to fit. And in true tractor fashion, they’re held on with zip ties :) lasted about 5 years so far so and still goin :)
Yep, 6 footer and it handles it just fine - only problem I’ve had with the mower is if I let the grass get too high (above 6-8 inches) it can’t eject it fast enough and the tractor will spin the belts. More my problem than the mowers for letting it get too tall. Welded some extra height on the wheels to handle that. No issues with power even though it’s only rated for 5ft mower.
I used your idea and had some scrap iron and made one out of scrap iron. Worked great. 60 " across front, 30" across back, made it about 5 ft from front to rear. Welded angle across the front for the tines to rest on, welded angle across for the blade to rest on and to pull the row maker, then welded angle across the back to finish the top off,,,wrapped chain across back and front and under the row maker so the maker would lift with the box blade.
Lots of talk and not mush substance. I get it, but more time on the tractor would have been helpful. Meaning didn't learn much I didn't already know. Just FYI.................
Nope, worked great while I had the car - I think it’s mainly picking out metal magnetically more than filtering but I’ve never cut one open to see what the filter media looks like
Hi there, wondering if you have a torque spec for the high pressure 14mm bolt in the front. I seem to have fluid leaking from that end and am trying to trouble shoot but cant find a spec. Thanks in advance!
what do you mean you need weight on the back to pick things up with the loader? Can it not lift and drive around with the full 1200 pound capacity without weight on the back?
Sure, you can pick it up, but tractors (the ones I’m familiar with) aren’t weighted like a full time loader is to compensate. Trying to drive a tractor around with 1200 lbs stuck out 10 foot or so from center of mass of the tractor, and it’s going to be super tippy. Even with weighted tires. All about leverage. You need weight on the other end to compensate. Also, look at the axles of a tractor - rear is way bigger. You load up the front axle too much and I think you’re asking for trouble.
It's interesting that people buy these, expecting to use them to do the things large equipment does. Look at it it's a compact tractor compact means small so it does small jobs. Wow are people really that ignorant?
I think the engine was closer to like 33hp in the older models but they derated the rpm to 2200 so it would only hit 25hp since this class doesn't have a dpf or anything like that. I could be wrong, hopefully someone could verify.
I hear many people complain about the 'left side only entry and exit' , but I honestly never really used a tractor of any brand that didn't have the same concept. Anyway, great video brother! You helped make up my mind except I'll be going with the gear drive unit.
Why did you choose to use the shorter pot as the base? I would think the taller one would better serve as you have more distance and room for the smoke to expand in before exiting.
I bought mine new in 2015,250 hrs on it.No issues,performs as a 25 hp tractor should with all the tasks on a hobby farm.Great little tractors,store them inside and maintain,good for life.
Just bought the same unit and options on Friday. Waiting on a grapple to deliver to shop/dealer to get MSNs recorded and it will deliver next week. Can’t wait, it will get a lot of use on some property we purchased and moved to about 7 months ago. If it’s like the commercial zero turn I bought...I’ll show my wife how to use it and I’ll never see the Kubota agin. Funny she was never that interested in running the self propelled walk behind Snapper for the last 28 years...but the zero turn and this tractor has her wanting to use both.
great review of the L2501. I have the gear drive version with the ag tires. It has served me well and I love it. I feature it in several of the videos that I have on my channel. I recently built a chain saw holder for mine and did a video of that. Thanks for sharing.
Sweet, I’ll check that out actually, I usually just stick mine in the bucket but I won’t say I’ve never forgotten it was there and dumped it out. Holder sounds like a better idea :)
with all the free things thrown in I am curious at the total price? I have seen many peoples deals on facebook and mine was thousands lowers but they got "free" stuff.
@@dailejc I'd love to duplicate that setup, Im geeky enough for it! Either that or start a full KickStarter for the ultimate smoker that connects to your phone! :-D
Good idea. Thanks. Any chance of zeroing in on the wood, it's position relative to the wheels or showing it in action for us to see how the blade of the box cutter flattens the top of the beds? The innovation deserves a detail followup.
0% financing never happens, they work the interest into the vehicle price so you think your paying 0% financing. The loan companies get their money no matter what!
Leatt46 I mean yeah, there’s a cost baked into 0 APR for sure, but it’s still 0 APR. Best would be save up the money and pay cash, but it’d have taken me 5 or more years to do that. That would be time without the use of the tractor (can look at that as cost - having to hire/rent for all the road work and things a tractor is used for, which ain’t cheap), and not counting inflation in the cost of the tractor over that 5 years. There is a cost associated with that too. So yep, agree there is markup for 0% but I still say it’s worth it to be able to have the tractor now vs later :)
0% financing never happens?... Well I asked for the cash price and they gave me one and then they offered 60 months 0% and they just divided the sales price by 60, so...
@@josemsolis7167 I've been pricing Kubota L series tractors at dealers all over the place. I'm planning on buying cash but I've been asking for cash price and finance price with each quote. It varies on the models but the cash price is always $500 - $1400 cheaper. On top of that when you finance you get charged a $250 or more "doc fee". On top of that if you finance you have to buy KTAC insurance through Kubota which costs about $20/month which comes out to $1680 for 84 months or $1200 for 60 months. At a minimum you're looking at an extra $2000 added to the price if you finance for 60 months with the potential for up to $3300 more added to the price depending on which L series you buy and how long you finance so the devil is in the details. For that reason the answer is 0% financing never happens. That's why I'm paying cash and I'm considering an L2501 or one of the bigger standard L's.
I have the same rig. It is built to do anything that it should be able to do comfortably. In other words it is a light tractor and with enough ballast it will lift all that it is safe to lift. It lifts higher than some that are rated for a higher weight but the higher you go reduces the amount of weight you can lift to get it that high. Sometimes those numbers mean nothing especially when those tractors are lighter and more unsafe to haul a heavier load. I hope that makes a little sense. If one has a need for picking up more weight and it's important to they need to purchase a larger tractor that weighs more and has more power. The L2501 can do everything I need in a tractor and most people need. More tractor is a lot more money the L2501 is the most bang for the buck in the tractor world.
I have some pretty steep hills on my farm. My local Kabota dealer doesn't even sell this tractor because they say it doesnt have enough power to bush hog up the steep inclines. Have u experienced this?
Andrew Burress well, I’d say I have steep hills too, but I think it handles em fine - I run a 6ft finish mower which I’m gonna take a stab and say is harder on the tractor than a bush hog (and technically is a foot bigger that what’s recommended for the L). Yeah it whines up the hills and I may slow down some but it’s not really a problem, I think the extra displacement gives enough torque to handle hills fine. That said I don’t have anything to compare to, so I can’t say what more HP would feel like I just know I don’t need to go any faster than I do already.
HighTech Farm curious where you live. I am looking at the L2501 HST and need to be able to box blade up my gravel drive and snow plus up it. Love the idea of no DPF filter on the engine but want to make sure I have enough power. Just sold my B2601 with the 25 horse engine but the L2501 has a bigger cubic inch 25 horse!
