Welcome to my channel! My videos are about the outdoor (and some indoor) things I do. Outside, it's things like working on the mower, tractor, or cutting up and splitting wood and messing with the chainsaws. My channel is unique because I think I'm like most people who need to make due with what they have or what they can afford. I'm right there with them doing the best I can with what I have! Comments that are to the benefit of all viewers are welcome.
DISCLAIMER: All information, videos, and photos on this channel are for entertainment purposes only and should not be used as a substitute for the advice of an appropriately qualified professional. Attempts are made to present accurate and up-to-date information, but no guarantee is made to that effect.
LOL! very nice video with lots of information on correct spacers and wheel bolts. i have an older GC2300 and am installing wheel spacers. the only part that did make me laugh was your wood "lever and fulcrum" to lift that "giant" wheel onto the wheel bolts. i grew up on a farm in W.Va. and have worked on cars and trucks all my life. generally, I just pick wheels and tires up and place them on the axles for anything smaller than a one ton truck. watching you do all that "stuff" with the wood lever and worrying about not "contacting the bolt threads" did make me laugh out loud. sorry, no offense intended. thanks for the video and the information.
@jimharvard no need to apologize. It's fair game to poke fun at because it is funny to watch. You'd die laughing if you'd see how I do certain things around here while trying to protect the back and also get crap done.
Great video, Ed. I usually have to step on the 3 point to make sure it's all the way down for the deck. I take a crow bar and move the deck at the pin brackets, and the pin will snap in. Please don't hook up the drive shaft when it's running. It takes just a little bump, and it could engage. You know I want to see the shell oil tested. Thanks.
Hey Ed, so a couple of things. Keep in mind that the transmission fan is always running when the tractor is running. It is located right above the PTO shaft and I made the mistake of trying to remove the PTO shaft once with the tractor still running. Luckily, my hand only barely brushed up against the fan blade and scared me more than hurt me. You were lucky to not get hurt doing that with the tractor running. The other thing, if you follow the path of connections on the 3 point lift arms thru all their connection, you'll see how/why the deck & lift arms move in tandem. The dial on the platform by your feel is a mechanical limiter to stop the deck at certain heights while still using the 3 point. That is very handy for keeping your deck from dragging on the ground if you leave it on while using the 3 point. In terms of ensuring the shaft is firmly clicked into the splines, I just push and pull the universal joint a few times to ensure it is engaged, but yes as long as the PTO isn't in gear, the splined shaft moves very easily. The last thing is that you should review the deck instructions, I'm pretty sure they say to unlatch the front lever bracket first, which relieves tension on the rear pins, making them pop right out. Anyway, thanks for the video!
I definitely should have shut the engine off, but I was going for a laxed removal and install which seems to be the norm on the tractor groups. No one reads manuals, so I tried it that way this time, lol. For those pins I had to hammer it on the reinstall even with the front bracket unlatched. I had the same issue on the front bracket lock pin rhe first time where I had to grind paint and a little metal off the tractor to get the pin in the hole. Not sure why they were not fitting well. I'm going to look more closely at the underneath to better understand the mid to 3pt relationship. It does not seem to be 1:1 movement all the way, but maybe it is. I'll try to hit on that in a future video. Thanks for commenting and hitting on these topics. I'm going to pin your comment so others will learn from it.
Just got the deck a few weeks ago, so I've only mowed a little with it so far. I don't foresee a scenario where I'll get to test it out in grass that tall, so not sure. My guess is that it would choke down and not cut well at all.
@@Redneck_Ed my 1725 with a 54" deck will cut anything I put in front of it. Cut quality does drop off in really long grass but it still does a pretty good job. I picked my tractor up used with the 54, wish I had the 60". Anyway who does your oil testing? I had my Cat dealer check the oil and antifreeze on mine.
Nice job, Ed. Those drive-over decks sure make the process much easier! I was wondering about the chain on the lift arms and if it would interfere with the deck. Thanks for shoeing that.
How's she goin'? Great video Ed. You covered the deck on and off real good and explained the issues you may face. Thanks too for the mention on the flexi top link for the rake. I appreciate it! Take 'er easy!!
@GrampiesWorkshop thanks. Hopefully the info card with a link to your video popped up at that point in my video. I also linked your video in the description.
Questions I have are: 1- how was your wood stacked? 2- how were the stacks positioned in relation to the sun, air-flow, etc? I have just recently split and cleaved the bark off of a cord of white oak mixed with black locust, two of the densest firewoods there are. I split the initial chunks that were delivered further into pieces roughly 2” thick On top of pallets I then cross-stacked the oak into levels 4 pieces across, 25 levels high against which I then stacked the black locust the usual way leaving lots of space in between each piece. The wood is facing south so it gets max sun, and max air circulation. It will all be dried to at least 20% moisture or less within 4 months guaranteed: been drying green wood like this for 30 years. That said, when dealing with the denser firewoods you have to be willing to process it in this or a similar manner if you want to achieve a faster drying time: Split small Remove the bark Cross-stack Off the ground Facing south for plenty of sun/air. Cover - along the top only. PS - All bark is dried and makes for excellent kindling!
I guess you didn't watch the whole video because I talked about some of that at the end. I live in the woods, so trying to position my stacks strategically to get sun makes minimal impact. Top cover does impact it and stacking in single (ideally) or no more than double rows with a little space between rows helps, and of course smaller splits, but smaller splits burn faster too so it makes more sense to just stay ahead of your wood seasoning and split to the sized pieces you want/need. In the mid-Atlantic region of the US, there is absolutely no way any oak species will dry to 20% in 4 months. Maybe in the south, but not here. When you say you'll hit 20%, you're talking about 20% in the center of the piece? So you take a split/stacked/dried piece, split it again, and measure the fresh split edge at 20%? That's an important point because the outer layer will hit 20% no problem but that doesn't mean it will burn right because the center will be wet and you'll see moisture sizzle out of the ends when you burn it. In general though, the real goal is go get a supply of wood that burns well in your stove. All stoves burn a little differently, so there is quite a bit of variation out there which is why this is such a hot topic.
@@Redneck_Ed it’s all a fun science to grok and figure out through research and experience. One point I thought I got across but didn’t clearly enough perhaps is that the hardest of hardwoods dry faster cut smaller AND I find also burn just as long as bigger pieces of other less dense woods. Yer gonna get higher btu too. The trick is to set the draft just right after the oak or what have you catches a steady burn. It’s a subjective call/preference on what works for folks. Removing bark, splitting smaller pieces (smaller than 5” ), cross-stacking in a sunny location cuts yer drying time way down for very dense woods. Zero smoke out the chimney once the kindling gets the 🔥 going - then turn the damper down to a low even burn/re-burn till the thermometer reads in the sweet too hot for creosote zone. 🙏🏻 for your videos! ✌🏻 😎
Do you feel that loading the tires would have given you enough stability without the spacers ? also do you like the 2" or do you think 1 1/2 or 3" would have been better ? Also, what about the warranty ? I know filling the tires won't void your warranty, but will the spacers ? trying to decide which one to do or both ? Thanks !!!!!!
Spacers seem to be a lot about feeling more stable and less about actually being more stable. They seem to give a very small additional margin of error. Weight is really the answer for stability and safety. Fill the tires and run low centered weight on the 3 point hitch. I added spacers mostly for some additional clearance for tire chains. I wouldn't run 3" and I'm not sure I'd run any spacers at all if I had a backhoe because that's going to be putting a lot of stress on the axle all the time due to the weight (>600lbs) and length of the backhoe. Not sure about warranty. Focus most of your attention on ballast weight and operating slowly and safely. Spacers are only a small additional margin for last line of defense.
The sweeps took the weight out because it's in the way when they go to roto from the bottom. Can be difficult to re-install. Engineers who make these stoves should make it easier for sweeps to get to the liner. Amount of creosote you got out was typical for 3 cords of dry wood. You saved money and did a good job. I always tell homeowners to try it themselves if I think they can do it.
I installed the weight and didn't think it was too hard. Definitely not any more difficult than the rest of the process they had to go through like removing the heat baffles and blanket. You're right about making these things easier. It's such an important thing to do. Should be as easy as possible.
Möchte an meinem Anhänger die Räder selbst lenkend umbauen. Dazu habe ich mir eine zweite Stange als Verbindung angebracht. Damit komme ich dann besser mit dem Anhänger um die Bäume, weil er genau nachläuft. Grüße aus Berlin /germany.
lol, really helpful there. Appreciate the cryptic feedback. If you're referring to them breaking off, this is not uncommon for anyone using even the stock 1725 arm rests to support their entire body weight. Especially true for large people. They are arm rests, and that's how I use them.
@PowDRider how is that different from doing a copy and paste of the page into Word? A hyperlink to the original text isn't really needed in this situation.
I upgraded from a 2009 50" cub cadet to a 54" cub cadet last year the deck on the new one is a lot nicer more heavy duty cut like 15 minutes off my mow time for 3 acres. A 60 inch would be nice probably cut another 20 minutes off if I had that .
It sounds like you're talking about a model not from the box box stores? I looked at the Cub Cadet models at Home Depot a few years back and the decks on those things are thin compared to my little 2004 LT1018. My neighbor mentioned that he can actually get closer to things with the larger deck because of clearance from the wheels which does seem to make sense. Down side of larger decks will be in tighter spots where you might need to turn around and avoid obstacles at the same time.
I purchased my GC1725M new from the dealer, in May of last year and currently have 120 hrs on it. I got the M version since it has arm rests on the seat, and I have absolutely no regrets about buying this tractor and knowing what I do now would do it again. I have the 60-inch drive over mower deck as well. I did not get the backhoe as it is a very expensive attachment that I don't have enough work to justify. This is my only mower now. I mow my yard every 1-2 weeks as the grass and weeds require. When removed from the tractor I set the gauge wheels, so the deck is in the lowest position. When using I set the gauge wheels to the height I want my grass to be cut at and lower the mower deck and mow. I let the deck ride on the wheels just like a 3-point finish mower would do. That gives a good even and consistent cut. I have the RetailRems sentinel skid plate also and I haven't noticed any problems with interference. I will specifically check for this next time I use the mower. I also have the step for both sides of the tractor, and the handle, all from RetailRems.
Good point, I forgot to mention that the step also clears the deck. How smooth is your yard? I ran around a little on the gauge wheels and it did seem like they were taking a beating, but my yard is rough, sparse with grass in areas, and I do have roots sticking up in some places. A smooth yard with lush grass seems like the ideal situation for having the gauge wheels guide the way.
I have found the heigh cut control knob will vibrate during cutting, thus allowing the mowing deck to lower itself on to the gauge wheels. I have nothing flat to mow and primarily use my older GC2300 (no FEL) to mow open areas and my zero turn for everything else. Bought the same mirrors for my GC1715 with FEL. Took the drive over deck off the 1715 and stored it in the barn for further use. DO NOT use the steering wheel as leverage when getting on the mower! Yes, I added a step and a grab handle.
The 2300 should have the knob that I've seen referred to as infinite adjustment. The 1715 should have knob that clicks into fixed positions 1 through 5 and lock. Wondering if you're seeing both of them vibrate during cutting or just the 2300's knob?
@@Redneck_Ed 2300 has a pointer on a worm type adjustment. You are correct for the 1715. However, I took the deck, and the frame work off just after I bought the tractor. wanted more ground clearance when using the FEL. Have you explored the telescopic stabilizer kit for a Kubota BX series (Merssick's)?
@@retpsp I looked at it but instead I jst got a quick hitch and never really need to adjust the turnbuckles. If I do need to spread the 3 point arms for hookup of an implement, I'd remove the quick hitch and I have a removable D shackles on the turnbuckles so I can spread them apart very easily.
Nice review, Ed! You might be right on the purpose of the wheels. I remember reading somewhere that they should not roll on the ground, they are only for anti-scalp purposes. But I just re-read my manual and it states that they should be set for proper cutting height. I've always set mine so they are just barely off the ground. Oh well! And yes, I have to shave the RetailRems skid plate. I've removed it in the past (for various reasons) while I had the mowing deck on. But I kept it on this years and it does interfere just a tad. But, I believe the shaft is hitting the plate, not the bolt.
Thanks! I'm going to investigate the skid plate a little more with respect to adjusting the lift arms and front mount because my deck is also not level. For those wheels, I ran a few laps around the yard, and I can see where having them ride on the ground heavy all the time might beat them up pretty quickly unless your yard is super smooth and lush with grass. I tried your approach, and barely touching seems like the better way to go. I'll show more on that in a later video.
@@twinbrookacres Yes, I have the paper copy which is the M1 version from 2014 and I also purchased the soft copy, M2 dated 2022. Only differences appear to be related to safety warnings.
NOTE: Both iBrightstar bulbs installed in my Cub Cadet LT1018 mower DIED in 6-months with virtually no use. Definitely do not recommend purchasing this brand.
@@markhammersmith8361 I don't make a whole lot of youtube revenue to pay for this testing, and Schaeffers is not readily available here locally. I had to draw a line. Maybe I'll test it in the future.
-6 try -40 I live in western Canada and I don’t mean Vancouver B C. We usually have a solid week of -35 to -40 in midwinter! With our average temp of -15 to -25 for two to three months morning temps.
Nope. I tried it later with all 4 wheels on the concrete and no difference. I did this because I wanted to try the jacks instead and needed a solid surface. I jacked the rear axle up on both sides as high as my floor jacks will go and both front wheels still were on the ground. The issue is that the tandem axle leaf springs are tied together in the middle with a piece that pivots which you can see around 0:26. I think it's called an equalizer, and there is no way you're getting the left side tires off the ground without placing one jack on the left side rear axle and one jack on the left side front axle. Same for right side.
Yeah, but in the winter when I need firewood, I also need the bucket to move snow, so it is easier for my to not switch out attachments or have to plow open a path to where I store the pallet forks.
I used a metal file. For the cheap screwdriver tip I modified, it was only a swipe or two with the file. The duration will depend on the exact brand screw driver you try to modify. Go small. You can always run it over the file more but you can't put material back once you've filed it off.
How about leave bucket outside? It's black and low to the ground and slips off easy. The bucket is indestructible (if set on a treated board). A bit of touch up paint and it's new.
Yeah, the bucket should be totally fine. That's why I included the 106" measurement. The bucket is even light enough to move around without the tractor (only about 135lbs) if needed.
I had reached the yearly mark, so I changed it per the manual's statement of "yearly or every 250 hours." I later did a video with a lab analysis of hydraulic fluid after 15 months of use to see if yearly even made sense based primarily on TAN, moisture, and contaminants. Those results are all explained in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZvKXcIloIms.html so everyone can sort of make their own determination whether the time-based requirement of yearly really makes sense or if it's just a waste of good hydraulic fluid.
not sure if I had same problem my xt1 starting pouting fuel out carb actually hytrolocked cleared plug ordered new rb but even if I replace can you unplug
Not following all of what you're saying in the comment/question (typos?), but I think you're asking if you can just replace the solenoid with a new one and operate with the solenoid unplugged. The answer is no because when it's unplugged, the plunger defaults to closed and cuts off fuel. When voltage is applied (key turned to start/run positions), the plunger retracts and allows fuel to flow. That's why I cut the plunger off of my old one. It's the only way you can operate in an unplugged state.
if an oil filter has only a "tension spring", and no bypass valve, that spring is being used for tension up until bypass is needed. It may activate during a cold start or if the filter media is clogged. If it didn't bypass and the engine has no oil, there is no longer a working engine. Better to have dirty oil than no oil.
The only "bypass" you'd get would be at a certain point where the filter would start to burst and leak through in an uncontrolled "bypass." Think about all of the pressure forces in that outer vessel of unfiltered oil if the pleats are clogged...the pressure is acting in all directions, not in a controlled manner for creating tension spring compression. You can look up numerous Wix models (e.g. Wix WL10079) and they will indeed be listed as having "none" for a bypass. A filter with no bypass is intended for systems that have a secondary method of bypass. Engine filters normally do have bypass for the reasons you stated. Hydraulic systems might not per the pinned comment.
Location conditions are in the video description but the water is in part coming from lots of human sources of moisture inside the home that are independent of geographic location. Do you have data on other locations to compare? The one other video I saw had results very similar to mine.
