This is the worst "right way" video I've ever seen. To crimp a ring terminal, you absolutely need a special crimping tool. Other methods do not provide a secure and permanent connection. With a properly crimped connection, soldering is no longer necessary. In fact, soldering itself can become a risk if the cables get hot: Solder drips and the connection deteriorates rapidly. This can cause a fire because the resistance increases rapidly.
It's usually one or more of the FETs (transistors that bolt to the heatsinks). Take an ohm meter and check for zero resistance across the gate and drain/source pins. If all three leads of the FET read near zero ohms it's bad. Replace with similar/same spec'd part. Fixed. It's obviously not that simple but that's the general idea. Probably 50% of these can be fixed that way without any specific additional knowledge. This one did not work out that way unfortunately. These are very good inverters in my opinion.
Gel batteries are very sensitive to outgassing so I'd guess the battery would be ruined if kept at 15V for an extended period of time. So long as the maximum charge specs for the battery are followed to avoid permanent gas pockets in the gelled electrolyte you'd be OK and the process should work - it would just take a long time since you're limited in how much current you can force through a gelled battery.
Can you test without load resister or something else that has 100 ohm? Like putting the battery inside of (for example tv remote) and then put the multimeter on both ends while its inside the remote?
Yes, perfectly valid so long as the device you are testing it in is the device you intend to use it in. Sometimes a battery will work just fine at a low drain in powering something like a clock, but not work at all powering something like a flashlight. If it doesn't work in the high drain device it's still a 'bad' battery but that matters little if it works well in the application you are using it in.
Yes, I still use this heater and have no major complaints. I think for many people a propane heater like a Buddy heater and a dozen or so 1lb propane tanks might be smaller and simpler to operate. They also don't emit kerosene odor. There's no arguing that a Kerosene heater like this one will give you a LOT more heat though over time. Storing a liquid fuel like Kerosene is trivial compared with propane.
@knurlgnar24 you rarely get them on the market here in Australia. Looks like a decent option thou 👌🏻 thanks for your video. Omg im just watching a video on some of the flooding in the US. Might be a good time for people to start looking for higher elevations in general. According to the Suspicious Observer YT channel Space Weather news with the earth weakening magnetic core, these events will keep coming more frequently and more intense. I know parts of Australia have been getting flooding recently, too. I guess theres other factors, too. Some people won't be affected, and others will.
If you have a power supply that's DC 14.5 bulbs, and you have an inverter. That's supposed to put out a 110 to a 125 bolts. Why is it that the voltage is reading only a sea voltage on a multimeter? You should be reading a 115 to a 125 V, which does not especially when you have constant current, why is that??
I dont get it, charging and cycling your dead battery is supposed to fix it? Isnt that what everyone does with every dead battery, charge it then cycle it when it wont start your thing.
Most people attempt to charge the battery and either it won't take a charge or it doesn't work after charging and they throw it out. It's not as simple as just 'charge the battery' and most battery chargers are not capable of charging sulfated batteries even if the packaging specifically says it can. Controlled overcharge is required to desulfate. The cycling is only a part of it.
4 years ago our Buick had intermittent misfire/no start; local shop charged FORTUNE to replace crank sensor and ignition module. Flash forward today, exact same issues have returned from the grave. Swapped ICM, didn't fix Doing extensive looky loo, have noticed leaking gaskets top and side, the side of block is completely soaked in oil and fluid. Wondering if oils/fluids dripping downwards are shorting out the crank sensor Could that be feasible?
Oil might make the silicone seal swell allowing water intrusion but more likely will just prevent any corrosion because it's covered in oil. I wouldn't worry about the oil leaks unless you don't want stains on your concrete. That said valve cover gaskets are an easy job. Note that a bad crank sensor will NOT cause an intermittent misfire. The car will either run perfectly or randomly shut-off like you turned the key off and may or may not restart. An educated guess is that your issue is elsewhere. The connections between the ICM and the coils are a common cause of misfires on these vehicles but I'm guessing both were replaced as a unit.
I just put 2 old batteries in series so then it's like 1 decent battery. Sure you need to have more space, but it's way cost effective. Even if my batteries get 1/3 capacity I can just add 3 In series than it's gonna be like having 1 good one
I have a one bad cell lead acid battery 150ah. Maybe destroyed due to low acid+distilled water. I am charging it with my power supply set to 14.4V and 5.2A. Battery currently takes in 12.48V and 5.2A. it's bubbling a lot on all cells apart from the dead one. Should I lower the Amperage and keep it for a long time?
As long as the temperature is kept in check and the plates stay covered with electrolyte you can charge at whatever current you're comfortable with, though 5.2A seems on the high side. From what you describe it sounds to me that you have a shorted cell which unfortunately can't be recovered without mechanically repairing the defect. I don't mess with battery internals and wouldn't recommend it outside a laboratory/industrial environment due to the hazards so I can't help you there.
I was interested in the desulfation process. I wanted to look it up because I have a 7-stage charger and was wondering what is the Battery Desulphation mode is. And then, about 09:43 you are openening up some Dragons Milk! Oh wow haha! Nice, I had that before.
In an exposed environment such as under a car's hood, I would crimp and solder. Crimping makes the electrical connection and solder seals the connection from water and dust intrusion. I've seen exposed crimped battery cable connections almost breaking aprart due to corrosion. I've never had a problem with rosin flux corrosion. Acid flux is a different and corrosive flux. That's why today's battery cable clamps are molded around the cable wires as a single unit. The slighest amount of resistance can drop the battery voltage at the starter to the point tha it can't turn over the engine. That can lead to the misdiagnosis as a bad battery.
Why isn't this battery charger's meter accurate?Can you tell me why is it because the spring-loaded?Or is it because they dials?Have a slight high reading or the meter is not quite so good on some battery chargers?
Why isn't this battery charger's meter accurate?Can you tell me why is it because the spring-loaded?Or is it because they dials?Have a slight high reading or the meter is not quite so good on some battery chargers?
Also, if you're preserving it, you will charge it slow.And yes that is the way to do it and second of all run it down again at ten point five volts and chargers again and see if you get the hours on that battery
I still think that the old battery chargers work better.In my opinion but I did find a battery charger that kim put out decent power and put decent hours into the battery
I also just recover to my optima.Solid electrolyte battery lit acid car battery 2 of them that I purchase for $600.I had a couple of quarters.I exchanged them and got them for less than six hundred dollars
But be advised that this battery charger can only go to. Maybe a 45 to a 50 amper hour battery. Most batteries are a little bit more as far as the emperor hour goes. But after we get the battery in service, go out and drive here vehicle to recharge it to full capacity. You should be able to be able to use it again. Like you said before it may not work as when it was new. That's impossible to do, but you still have some good use on that battery.Good luck read my information and comment.Thank you for other helpful information.I thought I would pass some more information to you
And? I just found out there was a battery charger that works certain batteries and will repair a battery. If you have a should say a battery that is a perfect candidate. I suggest you try this battery. Charger on it and tell me whether it did not repair. This factory, this is a noco genius. 2 battery charger you have to put it in force mode. Hold it down for the button down for 3 seconds. The mode button down for 3 seconds in order to get it into force mode.When you see things light up, go ahead and stick it on your battery and leave it there and see if it'll sense that battery and repair.It may take a few hours, but try that anyway.I will talk with you later.I thought I'd laid pass out a helpful hint for you and I have a new type of battery charger
By the symptoms if you don't know its history, or it's history alone. If it has been sitting uncared for for too long it is definitely sulfated to some extent.
This guy went through what can be the arduous process of making his 'how to' vid. I gotta ask, why did he not do the simple thing of spending a couple of dollars and get the 'appropriate' solder he more than once mentions? Whether you are making vids or making cables, it all starts with preparation.
Have you ever heard of reverse charging a dead battery? Get the battery to 0 volts then charge it backwards. I heard of this but haven't tried it to see if it actually does anything
Have you ever heard of reverse charging a dead battery? Get the battery to 0 volts then charge it backwards. I heard of this but haven't tried it to see if it actually does anything.
Yes, I've tried it a couple of times to reform batteries. It didn't work for me but it also didn't seem to cause any damage to performance. I suspect the life will be affected negatively however. Reverse charging is not a good way to desulfate and while it may be beneficial in other situations I haven't had success with it in the situations I've tried.
To be fair they CAN be charged when cold - they just may fail at any random time afterwards. (Which is even worse!) This is a major problem for RV's in colder climates but not always a problem for other applications.
I have an Optima battery, and I have tried multiple chargers with supposed restoration functions, which have done almost nothing. I am using a similar power supply and it is only taking a charge at 30 Volts. Lower voltages do nothing. I have found Optima batteries are difficult to recover when fully discharged. Some of my fancy chargers leave the battery at a lower voltage after charging or attempting restoration. Battery is only warm not hot, but higher temperatures help to dissolve lead sulfate.
Higher battery temperatures definitely help the process but make thermal runaway more likely which is why I don't recommend it. If after a controlled overcharge for an extended period the battery still won't accept a charge at normal voltages then it's probably time to recycle it and get a new one.
@@knurlgnar24 I suspect what happens to the discharged Optima Batteries during charging is a layer of gas forms over the lead plates and can't escape into the gel. I had one go dead during the COVID lockdown. A dome light was left on, and the battery went dead. I tried every trick to recharge it with no success. It sat in the garage for a few months, and then, long after I had replaced it, It took a charge. Very annoying not fond of Optima batteries after using them.
I’ve got a few rv / marine deep cycle batteries. They are both at 12.3 resting. With them being deep cycle batteries and not crank amp batteries- would these be ok to run in an enclosed trailer with a renogy dc to dc charger that’s connected to my pickup battery through 2GA wire. (Long jumper cables.) I’m trying to have power for 3 makita chargers and led lights inside the trailer. I have them hooked up to a small 2amp charger and I’m going to check them again tomorrow. I also have an old Napa brand charger on wheels that has the low 6/12v 2/4 amp charge, 40 amp, 80 amp/ 225 amp for jump start. Should I hook them up to that charger?
Seem to me you have a good plan. If they're resting at 12.3V after charging they need to be desulfated (you may or may have success depending on their condition). The Napa charger on wheels you have sounds perfect for that task.
So much misinformation in the comments! 1) Solder is a good conductor, that's why it's not replaced with a different alloy on high end electronics! 2) Soldering a crimp is going to have lower resistance and better conductivity than JUST a crimp!