Cars, Creations and Comedy, All things you'll find here! I'm James Mayer and I have a passion for all things building and cars! Some videos you might find are "The Free Rover Restoration" which is a project car I got off my grandad, and the "Shifter Kart" build, Both are some of my favourite projects. Hope you enjoy the videos I make and choose to stick around!!
Great video buddy. You definitely have a talent when it comes to the narration of the video. I laughed at how you described your welds 😂. I’m keen to watch a few more videos and thanks for the subscription on my page… I also subscribed to your channel 🙏 🇦🇺
Im on to my second VZ, both '05. First one was written off a couple years ago but had 260k on her, current one i got a year ago and shes sitting on just over 100k now. Realised this means I'll be coming across all the big replacements and mechanics hate working on them. If you've still got yours, would absolutely love and appreciate more videos like this one. I've been diagnosing issues using the holden forum which is great, but I'm a visual learner. Much prefer to learn how to do it myself without having to travel the countryside and forking out money better spent elsewhere.
I noticed the solenoid had one side going to the starter and the other to the battery and another wire but what did the other wire go to ? The ignition switch?
can somoene please help me, i bought a motor off facebook marketplace, its a 125cc lifan engine and it only hase one 6 pin connector with only 4 pins attached. How the f do i wire it ??
I picked up what is effectively the same unit from a garage sale, it was a Herless RF-114 (the model number paying homage to the original Taiwanese RongFu 114) which was manufactured in Taiwan in the early 90s (so >30 years old when I got it). My garage sale find was $60, which I knew was an absolute bargain (I would have been happy to pay $200). I was going to buy one that came up at an auction, but the price got over $500, so I figured it was probably better off at that point to buy new. So, you can probably safely assume that this tool holds its value quite well. Despite being 30 years old, it was still in excellent order and after a little TLC, a new blade and some fiddling with the blade guides it was running pretty well. There are heaps of mods you can make to them. Depending on what tools you have available, I'd recommend: - a custom nut for the bottom of the fixed jaw angle adjustment, so you don't need to be reaching under the machine with a spanner to adjust the angle. - a stop bolt for the angle adjust to easily return it to a precise 90degree cut - Replacing the standard bolts for tightening the angle adjust with more accurately fitted bolts with handles for easy tightening - Squaring up the vice jaws (mine were significantly out of square with the lower face of the fixed jaw having a shallow spot at the pivot end). For this, you'll need a milling machine though, or an adventurous lathe setup (mount a fly cutter or lathe tool in the chuck and the work piece on the cross slide to create a makeshift milling machine). - Take a file or flap wheel to all the rough edges on the castings. Your issues with the moving jaw flapping about look to be that the bolt holding the vice jaw to the nut is very loose. There should only be a small amount of play in the moving jaw, less than a millimeter. This bolt can also be replaced with a better fitting one that has a handle for quick adjustment.
Nice one mate, I've had the BS-5V for a few years, it's been a good little saw, this should do what you need👍👌🇦🇺( I think not a machinist channel just got a BS-6V too recently)
Great work James. I recommend you use an oil versus WD-40 for lubrication. WD-40 is technically a solvent, and it cooks off at a fairly low temperature.
Thanks for the suggestion! I have recently bought proper cutting fluid. That we just all I had at the time. Not the greatest but better then nothing haha.
Taking a look at the vevor. This one is a bit bigger and the top is a little thicker. The base on the vevor doesn’t look the sturdiest. But it doesn’t seem like a bad buy for the price
Great Informative vid mate. To be said, the original stereo really needs 2 ppl to remove it easier. Mine was an absolute bastard to get out. Ended up just ripping the whole unit face off and prying it out. My Iso Kit has the front and rear speakers confused which is an easy enough fix, but just so some are aware you can run into a few issues with the balance and fader settings. On my other Commy I have the Iso+Aeropro unit and if I hit vol+ too fast or hold volume+ it skips tracks and or skips to radio, if i double tap the mode button too fast it can also do some crazy stuff! But If i use the buttons slower it all works fine. Do you know how to get steering wheel controls working without the Aeropro dongle? Some units have it built in (So I've read) But I'm having no joy with a JVC That's meant to have it built in. Trying to save $100 but looking more like the Aeropro kit will be needed. Keep up the good work mate. Cheers.
New viewer here! I'm watching tons of different workbench build videos to decide what is best for my own workshop. I'm a new woodworker and I appreciate all the insight here. One question, what kind of corner clamps are those? I've never seen that style before. Cheers!
Quality job too. The pride you take in whats just a workbench - filling, rubbing down, varnishing - does you credit. Do you build things like this for a living?
Hey got a vy and got a headunit but wanting to connect headunit to steering wheel have the aeropro black unit but that's it, from the video sounds like I need another lead
