Too much time heating if youre brazing copper on HVAC Brazing copper for hvac you need a bigger flame and do it quick I use to braze like that when I started 4 months ago 😅
You are correct! It's no different for plumbing. Unfortunately it's the only smaller tip I had on hand that day. My A-8 tip would've cooked it up too quickly!
You're correct in that all three fixtures are likely not going to be utilized in unison, but that has nothing to do with wet venting, which is maximizing efficiency of piping. What you're referring to has more to do with fixture unit load - and the Powers That Be also recognise that not all three fixtures will be used in concert - which is why you're allowed to refer to such a configuration as a Bathroom Group, officially valued at only 6 Fixture Units, as opposed to 6.5 Fixture Units if their loads were tallied independently.
Your version is much safer than what I did when I was a plumber and I would recommend it to those watching this short. I didn't remove the residual water after shutting off the supply and flushing. I took 2 thick paper towels and folded them into about a 3x3 inch square so they were even thicker. I would put the washer on the new valve and set it aside, then I removed the retaining nut of the failed valve while pressing down on it. Once the nut was off and while maintaining pressure, I would take the folded towels and place them at the bottom of the old valve and shove it up with the towels. The towels created a seal and then I'd grab the new valve and reverse that process, pushing the towels down and the rubber washer then sealed the tank. Put on the new nut and finish the install. Badda Bing Badda Boom😂😂.
I don't know for copper specifically, but for steel quenching is what makes it super hard, you then need to temper to actually make it strong otherwise it will be quite brittle, but since the rest of the processes are the same, the tempering of the pipe is undone once it's heated past a certain point, and for steel at least that's pretty low, since you can do it in a kitchen oven, so pretty soon after you start blasting the pipe with the torch the temper is ruined. I am unsure what is the state of the material past that point though, but since the rest of the process is so similar to steel I would reckon that if you quench the pipe when it's red hot, but you don´t temper it after, it's probably going to be quite hard and brittle, so the exact opposite of what you want for swageing it. Btw the term for what you're doing, heating it up till it glows and then let it cool slowly, is annealing
I was quoted $3151 yesterday to replace my water heater...decided to go tankless & have a friend who already installs tankless in remodels that is doing the install. It's criminal to uncharge so much on these simple services 😮
Although it's difficult for me to assess your situation as to why the quote may have been so high, the price does sound a little steep for a traditional water tank. Hope you enjoy the tankless heater!
Price depends on the size and type of the water heater. The electric ones are less expensive than gas-fired. If the latter, 50 gallon natural gas have skyrocketed here in Canada...and my wholesale price is no less than CN$1,600, excluding markup, labour, and other materials.
@PlumbingsCool the 50 gal water tanks run under $700 & my garage is full of pipe & all the pieces & accessories necessary, my ex left a garage full of heat & air, plumbing & electrical supplies. My son replaced the water pipe from the main to the house for about $140 in parts....I had an estimate for $7200 & $4800....Ridiculous & this is after the trench was dug up. He was getting ready to go out of state to work & needed the pipe laid & crimped. He went ahead & finished it himself after that nonsense estimate.
Yes, it's alive and well, here in Canada, notably in single residential applications - despite common knowledge that if ignited, its fumes are fatally toxic. What's even worse is that CELL core ABS has become increasingly popular because its half the price of solid core (and half the durability!). However, ABS is typically prohibited for any commercial applications or multiple dwelling units/high rise - which require the installation of PVC System 15 to XFR if opting for plastic materials.
Had a new fridge installed in Nov and now in June this is leaking. Already called a plumber to hopefully be replaced. Only lasted 7 months before water starting shooting out both ends. Called a plumber. Hopefully it can be replaced. How costly is this?
Oh wow...seven months? Even that's a short period of time, even for these trashy valves. I'm wondering if it was an improper installation. In any event, it's hard for me to estimate how much it would be to replace without looking at all the parameters, but I'd shoot for a few hundred dollars, factoring in the service call, labour, and material. Just do make sure they cut out the punctured pipe and install a Tee fitting with a proper 1/2" x 1/4" OD. Compression valve (preferably a ball valve). Good luck!
Alao, you never mention to turn the valves right where the service hoses connect. Your system doesnt have thise but many do. Dont they need to be activated too? My manual mentions to do this.
Hi there. Hmmm....I'm not certain which valves you're referring to, other than the three-way service valves demonstrated in the video. If your manual specifies particular instructions, then I'd reason that it would be prudent to stick with their recommendations.
@@PlumbingsCool thanks for your replies! in this video the plumber shows a setup somewhat like mine. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M3WzxW0hv9s.html The hot and cold water lines each have 2 valves on them. One is a shutoff and the other is a service valve. Sorry if i'm using the wrong terms. I wish my setup was like yours with only 1 lever. Unfortunately whoever installed mine put the valves in upside down so I can't isolate the service valve since the cut off is AFTER it! So when i open my service valve, water runs like a faucet.
Ah, I think I see your dilemma! Yes, unfortunately it does sound the installer messed up your configuration. I see no other way to service your system, other than to have the order of those valves switched. To be clear, if you have two sets of valves on yours water lines connecting to your water heater (two on hot and two on cold), then the order should be, in the order of flow: COLD (into your heater): Isolation Valve >> Service Valve >> Water Heater HOT (coming out of your heater): Water Heater >> Service Valve >> Isolation Valve Hope you can sort it out with minimal pain. If you do, you may want to consider having them install the three way service valves like you see in the video...although either method is fine.
How big is your water heater? Mine holds 3 gallons but the manual says to use 4 gallons of cleaning solution. You only used 1 so is 4 way too much? The manual also says to use "cleaning solution diluted with water". Is white vinegar ok to use with this?
Hi there. I'm not sure how much that Bosch water heater shown in the video holds, but it's a lot less than three litres. That said, the amount you use really doesn't matter as long as you put in a volume that's AT LEAST equal to or greater than the volume capacity of your unit, because putting any less will prevent the liquid from circulating through the unit. Which is likely why your three-gallon heater requires four litres by the manufacturer. Don't worry about having TOO MUCH volume, because any excess will distribute into the bucket; it won't harm the unit. The most important thing is that you follow your manufacturer's instructions. I'm not sure what they mean by "cleaning solution", but I'm willing to bet that vinegar would be a lot safer (and healthier) than the likes of CLR or other scale removers. If you're in doubt, I suggest you call the manufacturer directly to ensure that vinegar would be safe for your unit. And also be sure circulate the solution with the heater UNPLUGGED. I once tried to descale an electric tea kettle by filling it with vinegar and boiling it, and it's an understatement to say that things didn't go so well (especially for the tea kettle, may it rest in peace!) 😂
I have found that it's easier to just pump the oil directly onto the die carrier above the number 4 die. This gives you a consistent spot to put the oiler and reduces the amount of oil that sprays off the pipe a bit. Still gets everywhere though.
FYI - You used the word “temper” instead of anneal when discussing heating the pipe. Temper hardens and anneal softens. I used to work in a copper tubing factory. ;-)
thx for the explanation. why the small instant hot water heaters for kitchen require an Open Vent faucet? (what exactly is an open vent faucet?) And is it ok to install a bladder and use a regular faucet?
It's interesting...I've never seen them referred to as "open vent faucets", but I'm pretty sure I know what you mean: The instant water heaters you're referring to are likely those point-of-use models that get installed right underneath the kitchen sink, and are useful for when small volumes of REALLY hot water are required (up to 210F), such as for making tea or Cup-a-Soup. They're often made by Inskerator. If you're referring to those, they often come with their own special faucet that allows water to escape through the faucet itself to relieve pressure in the inevitable event of thermal expansion. I've had those Instant Hot systems myself for several years, and I remember being puzzled the first time I witnessed my faucet sputtering water!...until I figured out what was going on (I don't think the manuals warn you about that!). In any event, I can't verify whether an expansion tank will work in this this case, because there's a possibility that those Instant Hots have check valves built into them (which would negate any upstream protection). But I can't be sure without further investigation or calling the company. It's probably still your best best to use one of the legacy faucets that are designed for the system, which will remove the need for additional protection via an expansion tank. And yes, I'm aware that those Insinkerator faucets are a pretty penny...especially when you start getting into the non-chrome finishes! 🤯 Hope this helpsl
I'm not sure which part of my video you're referring to, but here in Canada, an INDIVIDUAL dry vent can run horizontally on its way up to open air - although it does obscurely state that "all vents shall run as direct as possible to open air". The important thing is that the dry back vent connects to the trap arm ABOVE the drain's horizontal centerline (to minimize water from backing up into the vent). It's also important that any other connecting vents (thereby creating a Branch Vent, connect "above the flood level rim of the highest-connected fixture" (to prevent an unintended bypass). Otherwise, there are times when you'd NEED to run the vent horizontally below the FLR, such as when back-venting a bathtub or an island sink, which has its trap below the floor. The only exception where two vents CAN connect below the fixtures' FLR is for WET vents. Thanks for your feedback!
Thank YOU!!! So very generous of you! 🙏 Only please do be sure to REAM the pipe before flaring...which I forgot to demonstrate in the video! 😔 All the best!
@@PlumbingsCool Yeah, this isn't my first trip around the hardware store. Being autistic, I just needed some visual images to reorient myself. But regardless, I wanted to show my appreciation for the otherwise direct and concise information. Being an expert in a number of different realms, it's always a challenge to convey all of the information one knows about a topic because it's so habitual.
Thanks for the refresher. I need to flare for the first time (and probably last time) since I helped my Dad about 65 years ago (I'm 78 now). Based on other YTs , I will deburr and use a drop of Nylog. I might skip using a torque wrench, as the cheapest I could find is $134. My Dad never used. Those who do it regularly develop a feel for how much to tighten the futting, I guess. Thanks again, and cheers.
Oh wow!...thanks so much! 🙏🙏 🙏 . Yes, absolutely, wholeheartedly agree on the deburring prior to flaring. Unfortunately, in this early video, I was so focused on getting accustomed to capturing it on camera, I forgot to debur! 😔 I've heard of the Nylog stuff, which HVAC folks swear by, although I'm not too sure it's approved for potable water lines. Thank you again so much for your generosity...humbly appreciated!
Wholeheartedly agree with you about deburring (which I forgot to demonstrate!). 3/16th is awfully close to 1/8th when eyeballing it. As long as that nut can slip past the flare, you're golden!
@@PlumbingsCool It was still a good video . I also like to put a small amount of Nylog blue on the pipe before I flare it as it makes for a better flare.
Thanks very much! Yes, I've heard of the Nylon Blue from the HVAC crowd, who all swear by it. However, not sure it's approved for plumbing (particularly potable water applications). Thanks for the feedback!
Sure thing: It's not UPC or IPC, but rather Ontario and Canadian National Building Code. Specifically: 7.5.2.1.(1): A. Soil or Waste pipe may serve as a wet vet provided that: (b) the number of wet vented water closets does not exceed two, (c) when two water closets are installed, they are connected at the same level to a vertical part of the stack by means of a double fitting in accordance with Table 7.2.4.5., (d) the water closets are installed downstream of all other fixtures. Hope this helps!
@@PlumbingsCool I am extremely thankful for your quick and informative reply. I would really appreciate it if you can lend me two more minutes of your expertise and teach me the logical reason for connecting it on downstream?
My pleasure...that's exactly why this channel exists! ☺️ So the logic with toilets needing to be downstream of every other fixture is because they're often the biggest disrupters in the plumbing system, due to the large volume of water they discharge into the drainage system (typically around 6 litres per flush these days). This is why I often refer to them as "the big elephants in the room"... Because there are always special code rules for toilets, and they are often handled differently than other fixtures. Many people think that toilets are vented to protection of their own sake. Although a properly vented toilet DOES certainly help with proper flushing, the REAL benefit of venting toilets is for the protection of OTHER fixture traps! In the case of a wet vent for example, having a toilet UPSTREAM (or before) the connection of other traps means that the toilet's discharge will be passing by those traps. And the aforementioned high volume runs the risk of creating enough negative pressure to suck out the downstream fixtures' trap seals as it passes by. So placing toilets as the last fixture in a wet vented group minimizes the likelihood of interfering with other respective fixtures (and also why any wet-vented toilets in the group must is limited to a maximum of two, and must be connected symmetrically: so each toilet doesn't disrupt the other one.) That's a very brief short answer, but I hope it gives you a general idea of the requirements!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks once again. This explanation really helped. I have one more question though. Why isn't the double pipe system used, one pipe for soil and one separate system for waste?
I'm aware that some parts of the world separate their sanitary drainage between one which emits human waste (toilet, bidets, urinals, etc.) and others which are not designed to. However, here in Canada, any fixture or collection that is NOT storm water (rainfall, snowfall, snow melt, or ground water) is deemed to be SANITARY waste. The sanitary waste is delivered either to the water treatment plant (in municipalities) or to a septic system and leaching (in rural areas, such as farmland). Any storm water may discharge into the building's STORM drainage system, which will discharge either onto the property itself or into a nearby body of water such as a lake or river, because it's considered relatively-harmless clear water waste. Therefore, in effect we too have a "two-pipe" system, except we discern them to be SANITARY and STORM. And the two MUST be kept separate...and the discharge of sanitary into storm is a huge no-no for obvious reasons. Personally, it never made sense to me to have a separate two-pipe system for sanitary systems, because although toilets are definitely made for human waste, it's completely unknown what may be discharging into those "non-sanitary" fixtures, which I'd argue can sometimes be nastier than what a toilet discharges (think: a kitchen sink being exposed to salmonella or e-coli when preparing meats.) Therefore, in my opinion, it should ALL be sanitary, whether there are human solids or otherwise.
It probably won't leak if you don't touch it...the problem is they it may be ceased up and not shut when you most need it. But who knows; maybe you'll be one of the lucky few! 🤞
Hello, I was wondering if you can answer my question. I had an outside bib that needed to be replaced. When I cut it, the pipe retracted into the wall. Just my luck. I can pull it out with my finger (it's a 2 inch hole in the wall). I want to hold the pipe or clamp it for a few seconds to solder on a fitting. Is there a product that does this? I don't want to use regular clamps because they might mess up the pipe. The other option I guess is to break a little bit of the concrete. I would appreciate any tips!
Hi there, and thanks for inquiring. Hopefully I can help you out with your dilemma. In that situation, I often to using Vise Grip locking pliers (preferably the mini ones, which are smaller and thus take up less space) to lock onto the pipe and stop it from slipping into the wall once you pull it out, and as you attempt to solder it (it will also free up your other hand! 😊). I acknowledge that you don't want to damage the pipe, but if you open the vise grip wide enough so that it squeezes the pipe ever so snugly, you shouldn't have a problem with the pipe becoming damaged. You don't want to apply so much pressure so that the pipe becomes oval when you squeeze it; you only want it snug enough so that when you let go of pulling the pipe, there is enough resistance from the vise grip to stop the pipe from slipping into the wall. If purchasing mini Vise Grips, try to find rounded Jaws as opposed to the straight ones, which will do a better job at holding the pipe more uniformly and minimize potential pipe damage. Here's an example of the mini Vise Grips I'm referring to: images.app.goo.gl/Mx9PYLFJXuGZexL68 (and next time, don't cut off the pipe unless necessary; that's the beauty of copper pipe compared to plastic pipe: Copper fittings can be sweat off and easily replaces, whereas with the latter, you're stuck with cutting off portion of pipe.) 😉
@@PlumbingsCool Thank you very much. I hope I can pull it off. I didn't know it would slip back into the wall to be honest. I won't do something like that ever again. I'll try the vice grip. Appreciate your advice.
Awesome. Let me know how it goes. Another perhaps quicker option might be to pull it out and temporarily wedge a piece of wood between the wall and the pipe. Just make sure the torch flame doesn't come into contact with the wood wedge to prevent it from catching fire. Good luck! 👍
LOL! I've never gotten that one before!...I'll take it, and I'll wear it as a badge of honour...I absolutely LOVE Jordan Peterson! I refer to him as my spiritual father! 🦞
After connecting some copper propane lines with compression fittings that leaked, I learned yesterday that flare connections are required. So I had to cut everything off and start over. Glad I had extra soft copper tubing! That’s my MO… do it wrong the first time, research, then do it right. Unfortunately, even when I did it right, on one fitting I forgot to put the fitting on before flaring.
LOL...happens to to the best of us. One note I should add is, is to debur the pipe before flaring...which I outright forgot to demonstrate in this early video! 😔
You're not wrong about deburring ...to be honest, I forgot to demonstrate it because I was too distracted with the recording components of these early videos. 🤷
Hi there! Unfortunately, I don't typically do one-on-one consultations. Please feel free to share your challenge or concern and we'll see if we can help out!
This video provided me with the information and confidence to service my own tankless (Rheem brand) unit. I watched another video first and the tankless unit in that video had service valves with separate contols for the cold water inlet/ hot water outlet and the service hose connection. I started to worry I wouldn't be able to self-service my unit and would need to contact a plumber. Luckily I came across this video and you have the exact valves that I have (which I now know as a 3-way valve), down to the yellow tags. Armed with the proper instructions on how to use this 3-way service valve I plan to descale my unit this week. Thanks for the knowledge I hope I can pay it forward. 👏🏿👏🏿
First of all, thanks for the awesome detailed video and for taking the time to share your knowledge. After watching this, I feel confident I can perform this procedure on my girlfriends tankless water heater. Second, I have watched countless how-to videos on RU-vid over the years and your video is the first one I have ever commented on. After watching the video, and reading most of your replies to the comments, it was obviously clear that you have a heart to help others, you have a positive attitude toward difficult situations and life in general, you accept where you are at with your skill level and give confident answers when you know something, but are humble enough to admit when you don't know something, you are very kind and respectful in your comments/answers and never put anyone down, and you are blessed with the gift of encouraging others. You stood out from all the others and this is why I had to comment on this video. If this is who you are in your private life, I know your family and friends are very blessed to know you. If you are a follower of Jesus Christ, your actions show much fruit of the Spirit. If you are not a follower of Jesus Christ, I pray you would have an open heart to seek Him. 🙏 Either way, I pray many blessings to you. Thanks again for the video and comments!!
WOW! All I can say is THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, for what is undoubtedly one of the kindest, most generous comments I've ever received! ♥ 🙏 (I kid you not!) A the end of the day, bettering and lifting others in whatever way possible is what really matters (plumbing or otherwise), and it's reception such as yours which is really what drives me to make these videos. All that matters is that you find them useful, and I can't express how grateful I am to know that. God bless you! 🙏
Have spent the day watching brazing videos and must say yours is the most discrptive and informative. And first ive seen mute the sound of the turbo torch and narrated the acrual brasing. A++ for that
Thanks so very much...too kind! 🙏 Only please do yourself a favour by using a large enough tip if you're brazing larger pipe, such as the 1-1/4" manifold I demonstrated in the video - which will save you TONS of time. That tip was the largest I had on hand that day, and had a hard time keeping the pipe hot enough. Thanks again for watching!
Hello, I somewhat understand. I'm looking to install a tankless water heater for my home. It's a navienA2 series (with a recric in it) no dedicated recirculating line (going to install a bypass under sink). No check valve on line. Only for domestic water. Do I need an expansion tank for the water heater? (Sorry for all the info, I figured it would help).
Hi, it's interesting, as someone else reached out to me last week with a very similar question, and what I think is the same model water heater. Therefore, I'm going to repost the response I gave them. (however, the short answer is: Always check with the manufacturer's instructions!): It's difficult for me to assess your situation. Traditional check valves are usually noticeable by following the water lines and looking for them that way. Some recirculation pumps have built-in check valves which may be hidden in the pump's outlet. Your best bet is probably to check your unit's and equipment's owner's manual, to get a clearer idea of the requirements. The bottom line is that if the heating water is getting trapped in any way (there is no avenue for expansion), then you will need an expansion tank to accommodate the expansion. Some signs might be intermittently-leaking temperature & pressure relief valves, as I demonstrated in this Short: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pGCPExUvxLs.htmlsi=vLhq8Wx_vt0PVUfn Hope this helps!
Yes, it absolutely does, depending on two factors: the Fixture Unit load imposed onto the continuous vent, as well as the continuous vent's Total Developed Length, measured from the most upstream fixture (the Lavatory, in this case), to a greater source of air (Vent Stack, Stack Vent, Header, or Open Air). This is done using Table 7.5.8.3. in Ontario Code, and 2.5.8.3. in Canadian National Code. For example, an 1-1/2" Continuous Vent can range between as little as 8 Fixture Units up to a maximum length of 30 meters ( ~100 feet), or a maximum of 60 FU's up to 4.5 meters (~15 feet). If that 1-1/2" Continuous Vent pipe is carrying no more than 2 FU's, then there is NO LIMIT on length. Hope this helps!
