I fix, repair, rebuild just about anything. From Motorcycles, cars, lawn equipment, out board motors, boats, TV's, washing machines, stoves etc.
I am in Sales now, but was a mechanic for 20 years. Motorcycle & maintenance mechanic which means anything & everything. Also renovate homes and built a small house a couple years ago with a friend.
I rebuild on average one motorcycle every year and a half. My last project for 2013/2014 was a 1980 GL1100. A Full dresser to a naked Goldwing. Previous to that was the 1978 KZ1000 A2A. This winter's project is going to be a quite a bit different. My current project is a 1970 Norton Commando 750. It needs a total restoration.
Thanks for this video. I have been resurrecting an abandoned ‘84 VR. It sat for over a decade. This helped me figure out the carbs plan before going in. These ones here were a horrible mess of tank rust dust and green scale. An ultra sonic cleaner Got er done and cleaned up the jets. The Bike runs. After test rides, it feels like I will have to do carbs again. The tank is badly scaled inside. Am on 3rd fuel filter change in just 75 miles of driving. Any ideas about what to do about the tank would be helpful.
I think I would drain & remove the tank. That is no easy task. Then pour about a cup more less of drywall screws into the tank. Shake very vigorously, roll and turn, than do it again and again. Than flush tank out with gasoline or lacquer thinner or cleaners. Than thoroughly dry before using a tank sealer. I use POR 15 tank sealer and have had good luck with is but some people use other tank sealers. Good luck, it's a dirty job. Bruce
@@MOAB Any ideas of how to clean the tank in place? I was looking at draining the tank, removing the level gauge bung, fill with water and perhaps a mild acid, then setup a powerball on the pressure washer or a swirler of some kind on a drill through the bung hole. Vacuum out with a shop vac after a few hours. Repeat as needed until it “looks” better. I am not committed to keeping the bike, yet. So wanting to keep the time investment to a minimum. Tank removal is least desirable option. When I did ride it though, loved it. For a fairly large heavy bike it sure is nimble and easy to handle.
I’ll bet you they stripped the drain plug bolt. Otherwise at that mileage there’s no way it would be off or leak otherwise. The front cavity goes under the front crank case and when I had mine off to replace the water pump mechanical seal it seemed apparent to me that it keeps the clutch bathed in oil as it resides at the front of the engine.
You can still get most parts for them because the used that engine base in the v-max and venture for so many years. They are a pretty bullet proof bike if you keep up with the maintenance.
You should have seen the 550 engine I did a couple of years ago. I had never seen so much corrosion between the cylinder base and the studs. I had to beat the ever loving hell out of them to get them off. Replaced the case and both cylinders because of that.
Thanks for posting, my 98 Ultra rear cylinder rocker box started leaking recently and was trying to figure out if I needed to pull the engine or remove the front mount to gain access to the top cover bolts. Im going to go with a hex bolt to make it easier next time.
I could be wrong but you may have put the damper rod seat on upside down. I've been scouring the internet, however, and i can't quite find a definitive example of how it should go on. In all the diagrams that I have found it shows the opposite of how you did it.
I just double checked that and I thought you were right for a minute. I was checking the online parts diagrams at some sights that showed it the way you were suggesting, than I went out to my garage and checked the factory manual and it showed it the way I installed it. I will try to send you a picture to your RU-vid address.
I don't see your email address on your channel, but you can send me a quick email and I can forward the diagram from my manual. thank you for watching Bruce bowen@cogeco.ca
Nice Video, I was looking at picking up a used one, after the comments, not so sure I will bother Did you do as you said you were and get it running better? Mr Lightfoot was trying to send a message "When you reach the part where the heartaches come The Hyundai would be it But Hyundai's often fail"
15 minutes in & I'm already frustrated 😅 Not you, just the older bikes. I thought about getting one of these for some comfort riding with the wife... but this reminds me why I went to fuel injection 😅
You must be new to keeping chickens. Two nesting boxes is more than enough for three or four hens, it is actually enough for up to 6 or 7 chickens. Most hens share the same nesting box, they like to lay their eggs most of the time in a nesting box where other hens have laid their eggs. I had four nesting boxes for 12 hens and they never used more than 3 of them.
So I have a 06 roadglide drag spec 383141 clutch kit it seems like it always wants to stays engaged even when I have the clutch pulled in when it’s in gear. Do I have to take out the damper spring ? And just leave the concave one in?
They made it. I through a big outdoor double cushion over the whole thing and checked on them and they weren't even bunched up for heat. It was quite toasty in there. Much warmer night now.
I got mine running immediately after rebuilding the carbs, I bought a synching set of gauges to sync the carbs. I have the repair manual to know rpm’s, and what order to sync but not sure why 3/4 are so far off from 1/2 and feel like I’m going back and forth like a weigh scale trying to get them even in range. Can someone give me any pointers to even start in the right spot?
I thought I did a video on syncing them. The one carb is fixed, adjustable. You start there and sync the carb tied to it, than jump over to the other bank and sync the carb adjacent to the 2nd carb once those are synced than the 4th carb is synced to the 3rd one
@@MOAB I have the shop repair manual and yes that is correct. I feel like I’m making it run worse getting them closer to each other and it’s doing a popping thing when you snap the throttle and let off and even when it idles, I’m getting some popping like maybe a little back fire. Carb 2 also has a very tight choke assembly. I took it apart and cleaned it but it seems like it’s still sticky. Does it just need to be replaced? I found one on eBay for $34 and thinking about replacing that one
I am having a struggle with the throttle cables and putting new throttle grip and tube on the handlebar. After taking old one off, the cable closest to you as you’re sitting on the bike is pulled down into the housing with start button and I can’t seem to get enough slack to get it into the tabs of the new throttle grip…trying to describe this best as possible to describe my issue…hopefully it makes sense
On the left side of the bike there is a cable adjustment you can loosen to give you more free play to get the cable in. You would have to take the side cover off to get at it.
When the 2009 came out I bought a new bike.. I was just heading into retirement and I had it for 10 years it was a ultra classic... I enjoyed it.. I've gone back now to shovel heads and evolution motorbikes... But it was interesting....
I went and got me a 1986 Yamaha royal venture for 700 bucks, non running and put so much work into it that i finally got it running, thanks to your videos. I enjoy it And you got your self a loyal subscriber.
Thanks for watching. I will be doing another video on the venture soon. The choke plungers or enrichiners, or starter jet, dry out and leak causing a rich mixture, rough idling, high fuel consumption etc.
I did do the choke plungers in a previous video in the YAMAHA VENTURE playlist. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AJ6TXM7xA14.html This will give you poor gas mileage and fouled plugs, rough idle etc.
Hey man, thanks for the vid. I've been following you for a while. I just took my anti-dives apart and I must say they're a little tricky. I know I should replace the o-rings. I have three different o-ring sets from Harbor Freight and I'm sure I can find the right size but I'm wondering if the quality is decent enough to use. There is a guy in the states who sells anti-dive rebuild kits but he wants over $150 for basically o-rings. Can you recommend where to go to buy a rebuild kit for these things. I'm also curious of the upper portion of the unit where the brake fluid enters. It seems like they can be taken apart given that there's a hex head surrounding the piston. I'm also looking for the diaphragm that fits between the upper and lower portion of the unit. Not much information regarding these things.
A genny often smooths out when you plug something into it. I use an old plug in drill. The other comments about Hyundai are bang on. They are terrible. Mine is electric start. You cant get a battery for it or other parts. When it ran it ran good but it lived for 6 months and then bit the dust. I wont by another Hyundai genny.
