Running the built in diagnostics post repair will tell you if the camera is still working (if you are doing it for a client and don't have the login password). On this M1 model you turn the computer off then hold the power button down and keep holding it down until it says "loading startup options". Once startup options load, hold down command D to start diagnostics mode. Once the diagnostics run it will tell you if the camera is not recognized.
Incredible! This is the first person from RU-vid who did procedure to replacement lcd display perfect, quality and professionally! Thank you!! Greetings from Russia!!!
@@Elitemactechs yeah, thank you for detailed video, also from Russia) Can't you please share what's the tape you're using here? I can't seem to find such a sticky tape out there other than famous acrylic "pink" M3 which isn't very nice for such applications as it's behaving a little like a jelly having slightly unstable structure.
Same problem buying a display a 13 " MacBook Air from apple South Africa which was used a display one with a warranty for 6 months. 3 months later got a black square on the top right inside of the screen .weird ?Called my contact there to let him know and he was quiet surprise.Then a cracked appeared for the blackspot and crossing the screen to the other side.great so the top of the crack washing an image and the bottom black....brought it there and of course ,my fault and no trace on the body as falling down or impact.actually its like an internal crack and not on the glass and when I brought it there the battery was not working properly and to be changed.Apple is full of crap and specially being a good customer , they did nothing .happy to see that its definetly a defect on the part as they did before with other series....my MacBook Pro 16' a fuck up as well.but the 2014 series are old but still holding on ,except for upgrades.as for usb connection as 2 and faulty , ridiculous and of course they gave me along a Adam adaptor which supposedly a good brand and gone in 2 months as for most of connections .
I could successfully replace the LCD using your method, thank you very much. It is very difficult and time consuming. I have only one thing, when I move the lid back and forward, I can hear a little click on the left side. I moved the black plastic down and it got better. But I can still hear it. If I open the lid to his max, and then when I close it, there is no clicking sound. Do you have an idea, why this happens? My LCD display came preinstalled with the metal bracket, so I did not remove and reinstall it.
I haven't run into clicking sounds on this model after repair so I don't know for sure... but my guess is the under the bezel along the bottom (where it says MacBook Air), the bracket that covers the LCD cables might be the issue (this might be the black plastic piece you are referring to).
My hot air station is old and I don't think the temp settings are accurate... but I am guessing it is around 300 degrees F and about 50% flow setting. I recommend starting low and bumping up slowly... it doesn't require a lot of heat, the heat just helps it lift off easier.
@@sorenr.9396 do note I focus the heat along the edge and try to face the air away from the center of the screen... also note I never stop moving the hot air, if I stopped and let it sit for even a short amount of time it would damage those backlight papers.
Hello, great video! I have succesfully replaced the LCD but now encounter these issues - there is a bright neon green dead pixel, the screen sometimes flashes very slim red lines on dark areas of the LCD (especially noticable on black). Is this a manufacturing defect or have I done something wrong? The LCD cable does have a small ding on it.
That does sound like a bad LCD panel. The bright green dead pixel is an issue with the LCD panel itself for sure, and the red lines on dark areas of the screen is usually the LCD panel.
The video I linked below is for a MacBook Pro, but the process for removing the LCD with cracks in it is what I usually do for the Airs as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f11OKmsUBvA.htmlfeature=shared&t=1170
@@Elitemactechs Super thank you! Then I am going to check those out. Is such a suction machine recommended and may I ask which one you have and where I could buy it?
@@matheokoning4456 The LCD separator machine is not necessary, but it can be helpful as it heats the display and holds it in place with suction. If you are just going to do the repair once I wouldn't recommend buying it as it is over $100 for a decent one, but if you plan on doing a lot of these repairs they are handy to have! I don't remember the model I bought but I will check next week.
@@Elitemactechs If I can do it and get handy with it then the idea is to do more. Have already looked a bit on the well-known chinese site but am not so sure which one I should have.
@@Elitemactechs Good evening. Sorry if I am annoying. Did you happen to check which suction plate you have and is it possible if I email you with another question? I am willing to pay for advice if needed.
I have bought mine from 'XJSCYYCMAC LCD Store’ and it came with dead pixels and a torn LCD cable (screen shows red lines). Thus, I suggest you avoid that store.
I crunched the screen on my Macbook and I was able to change the screen by doing some specific things. First get all the various screw drivers you will need and can find out about on this space. Set up a padded area on which to work.Screws bounce on hard surfaces and are a bitch to find. Third, get a series of small cups and place them exactly where you take screw out and mane notes. Take pictures. And follow a good RU-vid video
just did this replacement. the issue i have is the lower lcd is bulging out keeping the lid from closing. i noticed that when i installed the lcd bezel but hoped it would work. Now i know there's zero tolerance for any bulge lol. So now the lid doesn't stay closed, and because of that the display doesn't come on after trying to close it. i'll be watching through your video again and others looking for any clues to why the lcd didn't mount properly. i also remember when installing the tiny lcd screws, i had to push down a bit to start a couple screws. i know now that is a red flag to stop and check everything
Thank you for coming back to leave this comment! It really helps me know what to focus on when I make version 2 of this video... for anybody reading this comment, check out my A1989 LCD replacement video to see the method I use to make sure that bracket is lined up just right: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f11OKmsUBvA.htmlsi=4nN2uYGk6_ppB9Ma&t=1984
If you purchase the replacement display from Apple's self repair store and complete system configuration after repair, everything will work perfectly including True Tone.
I see that you left the black rubber seal in position while you removed the old panel whereas everyone else seems to remove it straight after removing the bezel. Interesting, I might try that next time. Thanks for the video, it's good to see how others do this repair.
hi!! outstanding job, dude! please, tell me: which temperature and air flow you're using at 18:23? (I'm scared to kill the backlight layers). Your method is very impressive: you prevent from damage the light sensor and web camera! thanks in advance! <3
My heat station is getting a little cranky in its old age so I think it is running cooler than what the settings say... I have it set to around 300-350C with airflow of 5 out of 10. I would start cooler and slowly work your way up to something around those numbers if necessary. It doesn't require a lot of heat and as you see in the video I spread the heat a lot and don't let it sit in one area.
@@Elitemactechs Do you think that 3M VHB tape would work fine? I can't seem to find any store that would carry these exact Tesa tapes in my country even though they do have some from that brand. Thanks in advance.
@@Elitemactechs Thanks for the blazing fast response. Sourcing the proper tape will likely be a challenge on its own. Having real trouble finding a 5 or 7 mm ones that I like. Might resort to cutting down the VHB. Edit: Okay, at least found someone that has 6 mm VHB in stock. That'll have to do.
I was told if I just buy the LCD and replace it on a a2337 it wont work because of software (MacOS) similar to on iPhones. Is that true? I am capable of this repair but idk if it will work if I just replace the LCD panel
Hey thank you for this video! This might be a noobie question but what type of tape did you use? Would you have a brand name or a link to recommend? I am trying this repair on an m1 macbook pro 13" Thanks in advance
I like Tesa Tape 7mm 5907 for the metal along the bottom. For around the sides and top of the LCD panel I like Tesa 5mm 61395. The M1 Pro A2338 is very similar to the A2159 that I have a video of here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f11OKmsUBvA.html
Hello! Love your videos! I just ordered an LCD display and can't wait to get into the repair! Can I ask what the name and size is of the green roll tape you used at 38:01, and what tesa tape you are using at 1:13:36? And what should I look for to find a light similar to yours that you used to test the LCD before installing at 39:15? Thanks alot!
Green roll is Tesa Tape 7mm 5907. Tesa tape for bezel I use 5mm and 7mm 61395. I am not sure where that LED light I use came from... but this is similar and should work nicely amzn.to/3LWCrGe
@@Elitemactechs Thanks! I find the 7mm 5907 tape to be hard to source from europe, do you think the 7mm 61395 tape can be used instead for the iron bar?
I do not recommend using a suction cup... you could try of course, but I believe the LCD panel will fracture rather than pulling loose using that method.
That depends on the LCD panel that is used during the replacement. I use the same model Apple uses when they make these assemblies, so true tone does work after the repair.
@@Nowokas I like the method I show in this video at the 39 minute mark: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f11OKmsUBvA.htmlsi=G0s2hrUASPIf89ss&t=2351
I use double-sided, square, rounded-edge business cards in glossy stock. You can purchase tools designed for this process online, but I like the business cards better personally.
While I am all for right to repair. I don't think it will automatically make pricing for repair better. I mean apple technically has a self service repair for the display on certain macbooks. That has not brough the price down since they are technically allowing you to repair your own stuff. They just happen to be the only supplier.
It will all depend on what kind of right to repair laws are enacted. In the display assembly scenario, the law would have to allow people to purchase components of the display assembly from Apple's suppliers to really help bring pricing down.
If I wanted to get an lcd replacement on my macbook air m1 it would cost me 299 + the 25 for shipping? So I just mail-in at your website and I'll be good to go?
Thanks, this helped me with my iBook G3. I got a bit confused about slotting the Airport card back in afterwards and your video showed me where I was going wrong. :)
Look at that old layout, with the description to the *right* of the video! I remember *always* reading the description before watching videos at the time, since it was right there. Then youtube fucked everything up.
hi i really need somebody to help me ,i got recently ibook 2003 in 10.3 ,it fully working ,i changed i internet provider to wep ,i fully loading pages and all but youtube videos and sites really badly scripted ,what can i do to my ibook to upgrade really ,that it can fully function in our day ,is that possible ,please assist thank you
Fatih Kan I believe this model is made of plastic. At any rate the "aluminum" MacBook pros usually refer to the "aluminum unibody." It's just a suggestion, but I felt misled
android41 it's partially made of plastic but it deserves to be called aluminum unibody because its middle case fully aluminum. I've never heard it's called silverkey anyway ;)
