While the weight is interesting, it does not show the rotational inertia (mass moment). That's what matters. The scale can (and does) totally mislead one as to which will have a bigger affect on acceleration.
Ive always used T400s in all my drag cars. Better to just start with a beefier unit designed for heavy duty use. Good, simple, strong transmission. Bolt right into a G-body with a 200R4 crossmember. Even stock shift linkage bolts right up. Easy swap.
GM used T400s behind big blocks, T350s behind small blocks & six cylinder engines. T400 strongest auto trans made. 36 ft 454 RV that weighed around 18,000lbs had a T400 in it. I wonder how long a T350 would last in that application.
Have a th350 been built has a Hughes manual valve body trans brake when i hit the button can hear the solenoid activating and see the plunger drop but only getting a slight engage. No reverse. When I put it in first it just blows through the foot brake so it's not holding on the trans brake but the solenoid seems to be functioning what would you recommend i look for thank
Man i didn’t realize that about you buddy but it explains how you’re structured and discipline has carried into your business. I’m sure you hear it alot but Jake thank your for your service 1st of all and thank you for all of the information you give idiots like myself on here. My 80E and 400 capabilities wouldn’t be near where they are if it wasn’t for you sharing all you do. And please show some more jump videos and tell us some more stories. Thanks
I have a couple of friends that saw action in the first Gulf war. One of them was a Diesel Mechanic/Top Side Gunner on an A1 Abrams tank. He was at the battle where the Iraq tanks faked a surrender, and turn their tank turrets around when the A1's came into range. The A1's obliterated the Iraq tanks. My younger sisters husband was a nose gunner Marine Core officer in a Cobra Helo at the first Gulf war. He got 32 confirmed kills of Saddam's elite guard when they lit the "mother of all fires" in that ditch that was supposed to win the war. LOL. P.S. I rebuilt a 4L80E with your Stage II kit that will probably live longer than I will.
No way man, unless that plane is crashing! I bet it was a blast. Also got my level 6 and D3 transbrake. Nice kit, can't wait to test it in a few weeks. Videos coming soon
I installed mine and then it was rough while spinning it. Turns out the pump bushing was pushed too far into the pump rotor so I had to press it down a little and then i tightened the bolts for the pump as it was on the converter so I knew it was good and spun free
I’m starting to get reverse delay on my th400 and I feel like it’s loosing power in the beginning of first and third is it just toast? Or is there a way to save it
I currently run a holley terminator X without transmission control and I am in the process of switching to 4L80. Would I be better off going with a US shift guick 4 over a holley terminator, X that can control my transmission as the one I have currently does not. I ask this question because you mentioned in the video that the holley Terminator X shift strategy leaves some to be desired. Is the shift strategy better in the US shift quick 4? For context my set up makes around 1000 hp in a 3200 pound truck.
I would really like to see a auto trans tuning(Holley) discussion. Cameron Powers has been a huge help the past few years, but it would still be great to hear tuning tech. Thanks for sharing knowledge
Jake taught a bunch of the stuff I know about 4L80es. I might try and put a "how to tune your 4L80e" video together with all the pertinent stuff in one place
I recently rebuilt my early model 4L80E with your stage II kit for a crew cab 4X4 truck. The mistake I made with my 1-2 shift was when I did the TransGo AFL valve bore modification, before I did a full rebuild on my trans, that comes with a spool valve that has an inner and outer spring. I removed the inner spring for a firmer 1-2 shift...that was a mistake on a heavy duty application with a stock torque converter. When I did a complete rebuild on my trans I installed that inner spring back in. That did the trick, and now it shifts right for a truck application. I took that TransGo 3-layer plate and trashed it. I did the internal dual feed, and installed a stock plate that I drilled out all the shift holes to the smallest .031 diameter. I also did all the mods that your stage II kit comes with such as the output roller bearing. My 4L80e will probably live longer than I will.
I ran a turbo 350 with a Hughes kit trans break two extra reverse clutches a .060 thick also two two extra direct clutches the stock input drum and input shaft A HD spray in my methanol powered small block 427 NO power adder . The car with me weighed 2720 it made 660 hp it ran 1.25 to 1.30 short times 9.28 in the 1/4 mile for six years never a problem . Launched it at 3500 to 4000 off the trans break . I took it out to inspect it it was like I just put it together. It was tied in to a 8.5 GM diff with a 33 Moser spline spool and axels .
I put a new band in my trans and it seems that it's applying all of the way at the top where you're supposed to start measuring. Is that a common thing that can happen? If I put it together as-is the output shaft doesn't spin, which I know isn't going to be a good thing.
Yeah I'm going to grind mine down about .070" and see if it works. I have a few pins and they are all the same length so I can always start over with the dang thing in the car if I don't have reverse.
My converter sits flush against the flexplate when gearbox is on. I need to machine the pads or flexplate or a spacer between the block and gearbox to get the proper clearance?
Excellent video with extremely useful info. I appreciated the explanation of the needed measurements to validate you have the approximately 1/8" space needed behind the converter. Also, validating the piloting of the converter and alignment to the flex mounting holes is a very good tip.
