Would like to have seen you stand and bounce on it with one end elevated rather than hitting it with a sedge. Would have been more realistic to what a outboard does . If your hitting the stern of your boat with a sledge hammer , you might need medication
my concern would be what would happen if Jack had jumped in the middle...I suspect the plywood would spring back, but the honey-comb material might collapse. What is the strength of material during impact/impulse vs. slow applied pressure?
Does the compound expand when it is completely dried? In your demonstration it appears that it filled the whole transom? How much would I need to fill the transom of my 1983 Wellcraft V20?
almost imposable to keep paint on it. Special glues required to adhere to it . Have to be careful bolting fixtures to it. It will crush. If uv get into unprotected edges. They crumble.
it would be a great idea to sell this by the qallon or half gallon,, to top off the ransom or to shape the top, or how about pouring rotten stringers? this would be great, but cant buy it unless it is by the 5 gallon
Carbon core is far superior to the Lumpy blue Void e pourable transom compound. It is great. Check some of my vids. I did my transom the same way but with the lumpy stuff. I've switched to carbon core and it's so much easier and friendly. Self leveling. Tip. Always use super fresh product. It dsnt age well on a shelf. In fact if buying in person open the container and inspect.
I wonder what the insulation rating is as well considering it looks like a paper honeycomb loom inside. May be better as well. Curious if it is efficient there as well, if it could be used as an rv floor base material. Does it have a higher water resistance than natural plywood? Lots of other tests to do but really cool product.
That hammer test demonstrated the high density of the marine ply over the foam core. There are specifications that list the equivalent of ply wood verses foam core; 9mm marine ply is equivalent to 34oz (1kg per m2) /20mm foam core/ 34 oz with the foam core weighing approx. 6kg/m2. 9mm ply weighs approx 5.3kg/m2. Even when skinned with 6oz cloth and resin, it still comes around the same 6kg/m2. Foam loses on every score except stiffness. Meaning ply needs more stringers or inbuilt structural support from furniture, cupboards etc, or the addition a carbon skinning. Cheers
I have built several plywood and cedar strip boats over the past 30 yrs. I have also built an all wood jon boat. My question is how does this material hold up to impacts and direct scrapes from, say rocks. I have found that same boats built in plywood covered in fiberglass take impact better than straight strips of wood covered in fiberglass. The plywood boat weighs more but holds up to impacts better. In the case of my jon boats, the planks were 3/4" pine boards and the boat was 22' long and 4' wide. When built in plywood I can use thinner plywood and cover it in fiberglass inside and out. This keeps my weight down, extends the life of the boat and takes impacts and scrapes very well. By far though the all wood boat with no fiberglass has the best sound dampening in my opinion. I have hit huge rocks mid stream just under the surface of the water and only had minor damage. Usually only to the paint. As another gentleman said scarfing is used allot in building boats and this could prove challenging. Butt blocks could be used of course but this is added weight. I can definitely see the benefit of using this on the interior components such as bulk heads, berths furniture and sub decks. I think a good couple of controlled test of scrapes and impacts would be helpful for your buyers. Like I said I would use this product on interiors but I'm not sold for it on the hull. The hull is just one part of a boat so allot of weight could be saved using this product above the waterline. All this is just my opinion based on my experience with building boats over the years. The larger a boat the more damage it causes and receives when on impacts and scrapes. Of course the thickness of materials will increase with size of the boat. Thanks for showing your product. I would like to try some just to compare. I would use a thickness of plywood that had equal deflection as your fiber core product. Of course this is after the plywood has been glassed inside and out. I believe this would give more of an accurate comparison. This is the same as when I build the jon boats . The one with plywood is built with thinner planks. This keeps the weight down but I gained in strength. Just some food for thoughts. I would love to hear your input or anyone else's input who has used your product.
The sound test didn’t use acoustic sensors. Fail. The deflection tests showed weakness of the advertised panel. Fail. No serious head to head tests were performed in this video. Fail. #facts
DO NOT PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT,,,,,,,,, HERE IS WHY !!!!! 👎👎☹☹ Unfortunately for me, I read the good reviews and decided this was the best product. I ordered 10 gallons. I called the distributor to make sure my calculations for the catalyst were Correct. He told me I should try 1 gallon first and see what happens. I mixed it as directed and it didn't set up. 3 days later it was still gooey. I called him again to discuss the problem. He said he would get back to me. 1 week later I called him and we discussed the problem. I explained it had hardened but was still a little sticky. I mentioned maybe it was weather conditions or bad catalyst. Either way I told him I would try the next 4 gallons. Well it did the same thing but this time since I had taped the inside holes, it again wasn't hardening. It pushed through the inside tape and filled up the inside drain cavity about 2 inches. So I removed the outside plywood so it would drain out. I couldn't leave it in if it wasn't going to dry and leak out. So back on the phone with him and was told I needed to fill out this page long questionnaire about the facts of the matter. I waited a week and no response. It the meantime the product that dripped out got hard finally after a week. I got on the phone again and asked for 2 gallons to replace what I needed to complete the job. 2 weeks and no reply. So I finally got him on the phone again and imagine that,,, this reputable company said it will not replace only 2 gallons of the product said failed to properly work. He said I should not have poured it since it didn't work the first time,,,, yet I had discussed this with him on the phone. I am really dissatisfied and would warn anyone that is considering Carbon Core "NOT" to by this product because they will not stand behind it. I would think that 2 gallons is a minimal amount to keep from getting bad Reviews. If I hadn't done my due diligence and spoke with them numerous times, I could understand not replacing the faulty product. BUT THIS WAS NOT THE CASE BY ANY MEANS....I don't know what to do now and am trying to not get really pissed.
I come past your shop in Troy on way home from work, Could I stop by and pick up order instead of shipping all the way to the Chesapeake Bay? It's just two 4' 4" x 10' 2" x 1/2"panels and a couple smaller ones.
Not that scientific. Your hammer test on the honeycomb you had the plywood behind the honeycomb. Deflection test would have been better if you would have done that. Not That Scientific Cheers enjoy your day
Mine worked great accept for one difference, I put in a 3/8" 7570 aluminum plate as additional streght and filled the carbon on both sides. Transom is stronger than a freight train now.
Greetings and thanks for the video, Listen, this product seems great despite the cost (especially with shipping). But that being the case, now we potential customers who are seriously considering the product need some direct clear answers to our concerns which throughout the comments section have been vaguely replied to if at all by Carbon-Core Corp. (for the record, visiting the website or after calling the technicians/representatives some questions still haven't been definitively answered). Can you all perhaps make an updated video on using fasteners such as screws, bolts, nails, threaded inserts (ATR pins etc.)...and which will and will not work and the stress limitations of each? Also, any suggestions on best way to deal with the cut edges if one wants to make a panel or lid with hinges (i.e., should we carve out the honeycomb edge and epoxy in a strip of wood or pvc, or use construction adhesive to glue on a section of aluminum c-channel over the edge, or just fill in some epoxy or bondo the edge, sand, and then place the screwed hinges in directly)?? My longwinded point is, PLEASE HELP US OUT by making a updated video addressing how to overcome these issues. You will definitely be compensated/rewarded well for making said new video....from all of the business you will gain from the multitude of us whose only hesitation is what was covered in this lecture i just wrote. lol!
I just received my carbon-core 5 gals. I'm using it to reinforce and fill in some rotten places in my boat stringers. My question is can I mix half the bucket at a time. My pour will be a little awkward, so I would like to do two sections, one at a time. Thanks for a great video.
@@michaelfaulkner5994 It did work for me. I dug out the stringers down to the bottom or to solid wood. I used pt 1 x 4 or 6 to form up the parts that were missing and gave me a level top surface to pour and level too. Pouring it I split into two parts. Something that worked really well was a sheet rock mud tray from Home Depot apx $5. I cut apx 1 inch out of a bottom corner then set the tray in the form . The angle and tray proved to be perfect to pour into.
You compare deflection with a bare piece of ply claiming the honeycomb has only a tiny bit more deflection, but with a ply covered in fiberglass will deflect nearly nothing at all. Yes the ply with fiberglass is 3 times heavier but 10 times stronger. But i like those panels, but you speak of the ply when it is covered in fiberglass, but you test a bare piece.
