I just did a transom get a 5000psi pressure washer and a turbo tip it was the easiest way to get the rotted wood out and with the poor in transoms are alot easier
Great stuff. Great for a DIY with some glassing experience. I used it on my V20. V20 doesn't have a flat transom. There are three angles. Truly "pourable" made it match the shape and fill the space. No air gaps. no need to vacuum bag.
How much did you use to fill your V20 Transom? I have a 1983 V20. Did you hallow out your transom or did you cut out one wall to take all the wood out?
This looks like a great product for transom repair. With such little flex, wouldn't any stress be redirected to the borders of the transom? I'm wondering if that might cause issues down the road. I just bought a 17' jon boat that needs a new transom core. The transom aluminum is welded to the sides and has angle aluminum braces riveted to the transom. I'm wanting to not make any mistakes that would compromise the integrity over the long term. Looks like a great product!
New Customer here!!! I have seen others adding fiber (size unknown but looks like 1/2" chop) to the product. Please elaborate if that is a good idea or not?
You guys should maybe emphasize the how much catalyst to use per the chart according to atmospheric temperature in this video. I wasted a bucket not understanding the purpose of the enclosed temperature catalyst chart. It hardened before I could even pour it.
This stuff looks great! How does it hold up and how much would i need for a 17'run about with a 115 outboard anynother recommendations to the fibreglass after the set time?
Mine worked great accept for one difference, I put in a 3/8" 7570 aluminum plate as additional streght and filled the carbon on both sides. Transom is stronger than a freight train now.
Been thinking of useing that on my hydra sport bass boat transom not rottenjust some one didn't do it right way has some flex I fixed it some what no flex but still like it to be done right
Dennis, This is Jack from Carbon-Core, let us know if we can help, there is more information available at our website: www.carbon-core.com. My direct phone # is 434-227 0839
i had lag bolts in my old wood stringers .can i use lag bolts in carbon core? they hold motor mounts down for 350 v8 engines .my stringers are 3 inches wide or should i make mounts that hold engines with 4 inch bolts that go threw stringers horizontal thanks
If you USE this AS a surface materiale only like you would do if you laid fiberglassmaterial on the outside of transom......will IT still increase the strenght of the transom? And if so....How much stronger will the transom be compared to the transom itself .....if you put it on that way?Tord from Norway
Does the compound expand when it is completely dried? In your demonstration it appears that it filled the whole transom? How much would I need to fill the transom of my 1983 Wellcraft V20?
Love to see a way to thicken this stuff up, and then make it trowellable onto a foam substrate vertical position. Kinda like a plaster material but so much stronger. Maybe 1/2" thick applies in 2-3 layers with trowel. Why not? Like add a silica to it or something.
Before applying this to aluminum, does the aluminum need to be coated or protected first? Does this compound have any corrosive properties that might enhance aluminum oxidation or corrosion?
Fair question. I’m disappointed that you were not given a response. This much speaks volumes. People that work with aluminum on a finite level understand that oxidation with this alloy can be very different and cause difficulties to arise with no known solution.
The fiberglass process relies on the porosity of the substrate so non porous substrates can delaminate because it was never laminated in the first place. Fiberglass boat builders use fiberglass not aluminum for this reason.
Id like to use this to repare my stringers on my fiberglass boat but don't need 5 gal of it will you guys start selling smaller amounts? Also with the flex of the wood on the stringers would this flex just as well? Basically I need to dig out the rotten wood and just poor it in since there is fiberglass on both sides then just fiberglass new stuff over the top of the repared stringers its conecting to the transom so it will have the strength and also stick to all the old fiberglass?
Would like to know, I need 6 ,5 gallon pails for my Dusky 23 footer. Gentleman on video instructs, "mix one pail at a time", but can I mix and pour in rapid succession ? Or do I need for each pour to set first? Thanks (leaning towards using your product rather than Seacast).
Yes you can , only reason to mix one at a time is that you would have enough time to pour them without stressing that the other buckets start hardening
Peak exotherm is the highest temp it will reach. Good practice is to pour one five gallon at a time and watch peak exotherm then pour when temp is cooled down sum. This product has a low peak exotherm compared to other types of resins and epoxys
Jeff, Great question, and no it does not absorb water. Our tests indicate less than 1% per volume can be absorbed on its own , just like any closed cell foams. Since it will be encapsulated by composite skins, you will see zero water absorption.
I have a 1974 wellcraft i have to redo the transom on, i put a newer 4 stroke motor on and transom is cracking and leaking water. Is this product strong enough to take an old boat and make the transom strong enough for a newer 4 stroke motor ?
How do I determine how much of your compound I need for my transom repair I was told it was on your website by this RU-vid video or in your video but I can’t find it anywhere
You guys need to get the boat manufacturers to use your product to mold transoms that could be glassed over just as ply is. Runners could also be molded. When you consider how much a new boat costs it seems as though they should be built better
I'm trying to get a famous boat company to use this and they are super weird about jinx ING the jou jou that makes there boats not fail but yet they famously rot out just like every other boat.
Marc, Great question. It weighs about the same, no obvious weight savings. Coosa (26 lb /ft3) weighs a little less without the necessary bonding putties, so overall w eight should be close. Our material is 35 lb/ft3 and plywood about 35-45, depending on grade.
Is this a similar material that they use to bond the top half of a bass boat with all of its storage units to the bottom half of the hull think they call it "mud" in the fiberglass boat building industry and so what I'm asking is this a so-called mud stuff they used the top part of the boat to the bottom half of the boat
Boat halves are bonded with what is called Hull and Deck putty or MMA adhesive, and it is a different material. On our website CarbonBond GPC is the material you are looking for.
@@CarbonCoreCorp I am seeing it used more and more. But I also see others adding a unknown weight/size of chop strand to the product. Could you elaborate if this is a change in product a year on from this video, a whole different product the video maker mislabeled as your product, or just something Joe down the road did one day that has caught on?
@@socialexperimentgaming4808 We do not ad any chop strand to this product. Simply do not believe in this idea and think it is a faulty and misleading technology to put recycled and dirty contaminated filler in this product. Ours is made for over 25 years with ceramics, and has proven to outperform in real world with real resources available to average to expert installers.
You should remove all wet rotted wood completely and dry out Void. I use many different kinda tools. Burrs rasps air scrapers die grinders flap disks 16 and 24 grit. augers chainsaws Yada Yada yada
I just received my carbon-core 5 gals. I'm using it to reinforce and fill in some rotten places in my boat stringers. My question is can I mix half the bucket at a time. My pour will be a little awkward, so I would like to do two sections, one at a time. Thanks for a great video.
@@michaelfaulkner5994 It did work for me. I dug out the stringers down to the bottom or to solid wood. I used pt 1 x 4 or 6 to form up the parts that were missing and gave me a level top surface to pour and level too. Pouring it I split into two parts. Something that worked really well was a sheet rock mud tray from Home Depot apx $5. I cut apx 1 inch out of a bottom corner then set the tray in the form . The angle and tray proved to be perfect to pour into.
You say it’s more durable and stronger than Coosa board. I’ve found compression and tensile numbers, but I can’t find shear or flex numbers for your product. Could you provide those?
Karl, This product has not been tested for shear or flex. Shear numbers should show proportionate increase as compared to the compression rating, which for this product is by far the most important attribute. The safety margin for the product is greater than 10X required by most calculations.
Seacast was tested by a lab years ago when Wolf was alive. If you call them they have this data. CC is stronger than seacast because it has zero voids. Seacast is stronger than plywood even with the voids. The ceramic spheres is what makes this product superior.
I purchased this and mixed 10.5 catalyst into the 5 gal. mixed it 5 minutes and started pouring it into my transom. It fired off before I could get a 1/2 of a gallon in. The whole 5 gal bucket harden up and l was out $297.00 From the moment I pulled out the drill it began to harden. I don't see how you got away with the whole 10.5 It was in the 60 to ,70s temperature. Either this can was bad or it was super cool in that building you mixed that up. But that's My loss.
Sorry for your troubles. I've never had anything like that happen. A 1 2 3 percent ratio is sophisticated for any mek reaction.. so 1 percent of 100 ml is 1 ml. Even at 3 percent it gives you 25 min working time. Don't give up this stuff is great. Learning curve to everything
Its somewhat porous, and essentially a core material, which means it should be encapsulated fully to fully take advantage of its mechanical properties. Its like a web in I beam, without one of the flanges, it would not function like an I beam. Bridge without a bridge deck?
@@CarbonCoreCorp I guess I'm unsure of whether this would be good to pour into an aluminum transom cavity or not. Do I have to have fiberglass surrounding the entire surface of the transom cavity? Not sure how this looks in use
Carbon core is far superior to the Lumpy blue Void e pourable transom compound. It is great. Check some of my vids. I did my transom the same way but with the lumpy stuff. I've switched to carbon core and it's so much easier and friendly. Self leveling. Tip. Always use super fresh product. It dsnt age well on a shelf. In fact if buying in person open the container and inspect.
www.carbon-core.com/products/carbonbond/transom-compound/ This link will allow you to determine the amount of material needed, access link from PC only
it would be a great idea to sell this by the qallon or half gallon,, to top off the ransom or to shape the top, or how about pouring rotten stringers? this would be great, but cant buy it unless it is by the 5 gallon
My kid can swing a sledge better then this guy and he’s a bit vague... If the product is this great might get a better actor because this ad does not leave me with trust.
If you need a transom that will withstand more force than what he's exhibited here, then you probably should only be a passenger and not permitted to drive anything. 🤣🤣🤣 So he didn't take theatre in college.... I'd rather see someone that's uncomfortable on camera, that knows the product, demonstrating it, than a convincing actor selling crap with a convincing pitch.
