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White Rabbit is a chinese candy which has the usual wrapper that's twisted at both ends. Inside is an edible wrapper that looks like wax paper but is likely a kind of rice paper. The candy itself is soft and chewy with a slight buttery caramel taste. It's common in southeast asia and in any chinatown. I always found it fun to eat, a happy memory from childhood.
I went on the web site to find the foaming wheel cleaner what one is it.What tires are them they would look good on my 10 inch lifted f150 Whipple coyote
Dear Mr. Mike I just wanted to say thank you, your experience and continued support of the detailing topics and industry is amazing and worthy of respect on every level. You've answered soo many of my questions without even knowing it, especially on car detailing forums, and the answers where so in depth that it bogged my mind (In a good way) also I'm from Poland - we salute you, deeply thank you for all your dedication, it made me more efficient and calmer in so many of the nerve racking aspects of polishing and detailing in general!
Wow!!! Thank you for the kind words. I've always worked really hard at helping others in this industry and it's very rewarding to read a comment like yours and know that I've had a positive effect. -Mike Phillips
interesting KT shared by Mike. I noticed his arm movement much faster than you normally see with the Rupes on the right side of the hood and still got great results. I have Makita 427 and tend to like the rotary for finishing but feel safer with the Rupes correcting after making a few bobos in the past on body lines with the rotary.
Love your comments. They match my quote here, *If you spend enough time behind any tool - you can make it dance on paint. -Mike Phillips* Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I totally agree. I much prefer known quality over unknown quality. No one ever regrets buying a FLEX tool. Our training center here in Stuart, Florida is FILLED with FLEX tools and I have the confidence to bring in lots of cars and the worst condition boats for my classes to train on because I KNOW the FLEX quality won't let us down and won't disappoint. The flip side of the coin is, some don't have the budget to afford FLEX quality, so other options fill the void. And most of these less costly tools, will get the job done. Some people buy a Yugo and some people buy a Mercedes-Benz. Me? I learned a long time ago to never spend another person's money. Also - what none of us see is what's on the inside. On the outside, tools can look similar, but what's on the inside is more important. In my experience, FLEX tools are the best on the market. No other polishers that I know of, be it an orbital or a rotary, has the *7-Function Microprocessor* that comes from the factory in all FLEX polishers. The FLEX 7-function Microprocessor includes, 1: Provides constant speed control via the tachometer generator. 2: Provides a soft, gradual start of the rotation of the electric motor that powers the drive mechanism. 3: Controls the accelerator trigger switch. 4: Provides restart protection after a power interruption. 5: Provides overload protection. 6: Monitors the temperature of the coil windings and turns the polisher off before damage can occur. 7: Controls speed set by the variable speed dial. One of the most important functions is the heat sensor, which monitors tool temperature. If the tool becomes too hot, the 7-function microprocessor will turn the tool off so no damage can occur. Another key benefit to the 7-function microprocessor is the power interruption function. If power goes off to the tool, when power is restored, the tool will NOT turn back on until you release the speed trigger lock. This prevents the tool from turning on and possibly causing damage to a vehicle or a person. Besides the above, the FLEX PE-150 comes with precision machined stainless steel gears instead of steel stamped gears. The tool is much quieter and smoother. The battery technology used in FLEX tools comes from EGO. 1: Longest battery run-time. 2: Shortest battery recharge time. 3: Longest cycle life - how many times the battery can be recharged. I've been using the *PROTYPE* FLEX sent me in 2017 - as I type in the year 2024 that's 7 years without a single hiccup. Do your own research but like the saying goes, Buy once, cry once Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
if you replace the cheap grease in the HF Hercules it runs more quiet at higher speeds and also runs cooler. I removed all the old cheap grease with some white moly grease and its been great.
You know, sometimes Yancy comes in and gets the close-up and sometimes he doesn't. For this particular instance, we were not showcasing the Paint Coating Builder, but this topic is coming up. Suffice to say, the process I shared created a 100% absolutely flawless finish and the owner was super happy when he saw the results. The paint on this car is on the soft side of medium, and my guess is by now, (it's been months since I detailed this car), it already has new swirls and scratches. Stay tuned, you're going to see some close-ups of Paint Coating Builder on a BLACK C8 Corvette. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Excellent video, thank you for the details. I just picked up HF's for $89 with a coupon yesterday. I'll be using it 2-3 times a month at the most and expecting it to last me a lifetime. If it doesn't I'll just plunk down another $100.
Probably correct. My guess is most people don't own the correct tools or possess the skill or knowledge to remove and replace bearings in tools without also screwing up the tool. Just a guess. -Mike Phillips
@@rotemtomhagbi1937 - Totally agree. Question? Does it take any special tools or skills to remove the bearings out of a tool like the Harbor Freight 6" DA? While I had it apart, it looked like a person might need a hydraulic press and some other special tools. I don't think a person should try to replace bearings using a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. But... I could be wrong. Do you know of a video or have you made a video showing how to replace cheap bearings with premium bearings?
It's a simple technique that keeps you safe or keeps you from having to apply touch-up paint to edges and raised body lines. Or worse, repainting an entire panel. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I've seen other videos from Dr. Beasley's Chris Racana that say you shouldn't prime your pad. Just getting contradiction information about the use of NSPs For example: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LHyWpNgSLdM.html
Technically you don't need to prime a FOAM pad as continuing to use the same pad you'll be priming the pad by using it. With microfiber pads, the detailing world consensus, lead by RUPES is that you should/must prime MICROFIBER pads to ensure each fiber is coated with abrasive technology BEFORE using the pad to remove defects. And with rotary polishers, I never prime them, but some people do. In fact, when I worked for Meguiar's in Irvine, California, we taught priming foam pads on rotary polishers with M34 Final Inspection. That was the official Meguiar's recommendation, but I never did this as a practice for the last 40+ years. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Gentleman please please .. when you are showing us something and teaching us zoom in so we can see, the camera is way way to far!! Thank you for all you do 🙏
Will try harder to do a better job. I agree, when "showing" stuff, it helps for the camera person to move in or zoom in and capture the results so the audience can see what we're seeing. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Hi, I just wet sanded a black vehicle today as well! However I noticed that I introduced finer scratches which I can't seem to remove! I sanded with 2000 grit followed by 3000 grit followed by da polisher with short microfiber pad. i did 4 passes 2 times!
The trick is with each grit of paper you go up in to double the amount of passes to ensure you remove the previous grit scratch. If you do 15 passes with 2,000 do 30 passes with 3,000. Seems to me you didnt remove the 2000 grit scratch
Following 2000 grit with 3000 grit can be done, this is a pretty large jump for a newbie. The key is to completely replace the 2000 grit sanding marks with 3000 grit sanding marks and this takes both practice and extreme focus on the task at hand. Don't feel bad if you didn't do this, most people can't. Also, get a rotary polisher and a wool pad to remove the sanding marks, it's not only FASTER - but a wool pad also spinning on a rotary polisher is much more effective at removing 100% of the sanding marks as compared to ANY brand or type of orbital polisher. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Ok so on just cleaning the rubber its 8 min per wheel not including the rims. So its approx 50 min or more for complete rim and tire cleaning b4 dressing. Thats not efficient enough for being a professional profitable detailer.
So you're saying, you can scrub tires FASTER by hand and get the rubber CLEANER by hand with sometime of tire brush? If that works for you then do it. The simple fact is, to sit down in front of one wheel and tire, (normally you're sitting on the ground in front of the wheel and tire), to properly clean the tire and the wheel, including the barrel and behind the spokes, plus the caliper, you know a pro-grade job, then YES - it's going to take approximately 15 minutes per wheel and tire and thus an entire hour to clean all 4 wheels and tires. This is an average and based upon the fact that MOST of the cars I detail are NEGLECTED - not brand new. This means the tires have tire blooming and some kind of crappy tire dressing and the portions of the wheel behind the wheel face have never or rarely been cleaned. I've cleaned more wheels and tires in my life than I can remember and I'm pretty good at this and I know I'm accurate with my times. So again, if cleaning tires by hand and getting the entire wheel and tire clean in around 10 minutes total is you SOP - then more power to you. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
so 2ith the Z1 can Instill apply a differnt ceramic coating after using Z1? My other question is eince Z1 has that range of .45 to about .95 micor spheres.Could you then go from a NSP 150 to a Z1 . So going from removing heavy defects using thr 150 down to lets say 4emoving holograms or swirlsnysing the Z1?
Yes to the first question and yes to the second question assuming the paint isn't hard. And all of this depends on what you're using with the NSP 150 as well as what you're trying to do? Are you using a Porter Cable with a foam pad to remove deep scratches? Give me an example of what you're working on and what you're trying to accomplish. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Hello Mike. I have use a DA before but not a rotary per day unless you can call using a Drill with q oad in it as A Rotary. I am looking at wanting to aquure more oractice, becaur I do want to get into opening a detail business. I am trying to decide which tool to purchase. one that can if need be remove deeper defects. I am trying to decide between an Rotary,15mm, 21mm or even a 25mm( ie DIY 25mm DA.I was watching your video which you say the only tool that can remove R.I D.S is a Rotary with a wool pad. ehats even more confusing is that you have 1 famous oerson thar says the DA is for Cutting and the Rotary is for finishing. I am so confused and would like your proffesional optionin on what tool I should stet with and can eve a longer throw polisher like a 25mm DA in anyway can remove those deeper scractches. is ther anyway I can call and have a conversation about this topic?;
I would recommend figuring out which guru to follow. I never argue with others and their opinions. As long as they get to shiny, that's what's most important. Here's the deal with rotary versus ANY type of orbital. A rotary polisher with a wool pad and a great compound will out cut any type, orbit stroke of dual action polishers. It's simple physics. A spinning wool pad, spinning in a single rotational direction has a shit ton of cutting power. Sure an orbital can get the job done, it will always be slower and less effective. I just had a class that hand and machine sanded a 1949 Chevy Fleetline. They cut the paint, that is they removed the sanding marks using wool pads on rotary polishers with Dr. Beasley's NSP 150. Like in ALL MY CLASSES - at some point, I go around the entire car, top to bottom and remove all the sanding marks they missed. This is normal, these people tend to be NEW to sanding and buffing and removing 100% of the sanding marks is challenging. And the sanding marks they miss are always along edges and body lines where it's the MOST DIFFICULT to buff. If any of these people were using an orbital polisher, it would take DAYS to remove all the sanding marks. So listen to all the gurus you can find but at some point, you should be able to figure out who speaks from real-world experience and their word is accurate and endures the test of time. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Yup - gear-driven orbital trumps free spinning orbital any day of the week when it comes to speed and effectiveness. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@rongamble9884 - I would say "yes" legit polishers. I have not counted lately how many FLEX polishers I have here in our Training Garage, but a LOT and they always perform as expected and as advertised. Mike
I don't believe any random orbital polisher can cut better, more efficient or faster than a rotary polisher with a great wool pad and great abrasive technology. To take a deeper dive into this topic, most people that will make the claim that an orbital can cut faster than a rotary will say this and demonstrate this in the context of a smooth flat section of paint like in the middle of a hood or trunk lid. In the REAL WORLD - in the context of sanding down an entire car, there's simply no way any orbital can compete with a rotary when it comes to removing 100% of the sanding marks out of the ENTIRE car - and this means along all the edges, raised body lines, emblems, trim, etc. A free spinning random orbital will simply suffer from pad stalling when trying to remove sanding marks around edges and raised body lines and a gear-driven orbital will be to slow and awkward. Any bodyman knows the rotary is the right tool for the job and this is why for the first car on the FIRST day, first thing in the morning, I teach how to correctly use a rotary polisher in our classes. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@08yfz450buck - No problemo. I have actually sanded and buffed out a lot of cars besides the normal stuff most detailers do - that is use orbitals to buff out cars. Sanding takes everything involved to a higher level. -Mike
Agree. Too many of us in the detailing world, tend to take something that should be very simple and turn it into Rocket Science. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Wow, lots of great tips and tricks in this video. Just what I am looking for as I research before doing my first car which is a dark Inca Blue Metallic. Jut the little things like how to remove the tape, don't use tape.. etc.. Thanks
Using the thicker core wire cords or lower gauge power cords is the best thing you can do to get the best performance out of a tool plus prevent any damage. Thank you for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
so if your detailing a lerson vehicle and you apply this to there seats. Being that it takes 24-48 hours; eill it affect the cure time if the customer does use the seats?!Should you cover them up for that amount os time after application if the customer does end up using his vehicle in that time frame?
In a perfect world, you leave the seats undisturbed for a window of time between 24 and 48 hours for the product to fully cure and setup. Things like this are best discussed with the owner of the car so they are aware that there's some down time after the Microsuede Protection is installed. -Mike Phillips
My son-in-law and myself sanded down the entire truck, right up to the edges as he sprayed 6 layers of paint. Came out freaking amazing. The most difficult thing he has to do now is KEEP IT THIS NICE. I wish him luck, black shows everything. Thank you for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
No, not normally. I start out with a dry but clean wool cutting pad and then using the 10@10 Technique, pick-up my bead or strip of product and start buffing. Normally with a dry wool pad, the pad will absorb some of the strip of product you picked-up, so I don't buff to long before adding a fresh strip of product. At some point, the working area of the wool pad is primved. I know some guys mist some pad conditioner, water or spray detailer onto a dry wool and foam pad when using a rotary, but this has never been my practice. At the end of the day, as long as everyone is getting to shiny - that's what's most important. Thank you for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
I feel like such a dumb***. I have had the tools you are using for years and never thought to use them on the tires! I also have a truck with big off-road tires, and I now know I've been wasting so much time. Thank you for this.
Totally understand. I started machine scrubbing tires back in 2013 when I wanted to get my 40" Toyos surgically clean so I could apply the Tuf Shine Tire Coating. Never looked back. I also show this for machine scrubbing floor mats, exterior plastic cladding, like running boards, bumpers, Chevy Avalanche, etc. And in my boat classes, I show this with Comet or Soft Scrub to machine clean molded-in non-skid inside boats. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Bought a challenger recently that has the satin top. Ive been stressed because i keep hearing how much of a pain matte paints are. This brought some comfort that its not as dramatic as people on the internet make it sound.
Definitely no PPF available “right from the factory”. You can get it from a couple Tesla service centers in the whole country, but that’s far from being a factory applied PPF.
It's just a normal business practice for any company that want's to compete in the social media platforms and stay in business. You have the complete freedom to NOT subscribe and thus not get notified when we post new content. That said, Thanks for watching and commenting -Mike Phillips
Hey Juan, to clarify, we don't have a paid subscription for our content, it's all free. Chris was just asking you to hit "subscribe" on our RU-vid channel so you get notified when new videos drop.
Yeah this isn't the best approach or low-profile or THIN sidewall tires. I just use a normal, short bristle tire cleaning brush for these types of tires. BUT for NORMAL tires, this works great. Most of all, thank you for watching and commenting @YingYangStang -Mike Phillips
