Brilliant and thanks for trouble shooting our system after chatting at VLF 24 what can I say. You spent possibly 2-3 hrs sorting it and it wasn’t really a blue fix fault it was a van fault. Thank you guys n girls you really do have the best customer service and we have used other well known ones beginning with Fxlcxn. And wouldn’t recommend them at all. You guys top service top product and honest and fab after sales customer service
I interested how much better is a 24 V inverter system my 12 V inverter? When I put the microwave on 700 W? It draws about 100 amp from the batteries how much less amps does a 24 V inverted draw? And where is that place? I didn’t hear you mention where have you moved to? Looks good..
Hi, I was watching your video to help me plan my layout. Just had a few questions. So the main fuse before the disconnect switch is the one rated for the max inverter draw? So the inverter positive can go direct to the busbar with no other fuse? Also, what do you recommend for short circuit protect ion at the battery. I just have two 100ah lithium batteries in parallel. Some people say 125amp MRBF fuse on each positive terminal. I was thinking of using a class T before the switch, but then something seems off about using the MRBF at the terminals since the MPBF has a lower aic rating then the class T. It does not seem like there are any Class T battery post mounted options, so is MRBF the best one can do, at the terminal post for battery short circuit protection?
Very nice--thank you for posting. Quick question: Is it acceptable to connect the small positive wire to the positive bus bar--instead of the battery switch shown in the video?
The reason we don’t do that is for troubleshooting. we feel it’s important to always have power to the shunt. If the main fuse was to ever blow the shunt would loose power if it was on the bus bar. If it was on the battery That would be the first thing to check why the system wasn’t working. If it was the main fuse that blew you could still log into the shunt and see the state of charge on the battery
If you can only connect the negative cable from the shunt to the negative post of the battery how would I get the negative cable coming from my solar controller to the negative post of my battery for the solar controller to be able to charge my battery
Is it ok to run my vehicle chassis grounds (engine block, firewall, and fender) to system minus? I’ve had mine wired this way on my Jeep for several months now, and haven’t had any issues. Someone recently pointed out to me that it might be dangerous and now I’m doubting myself. I have a Jeep TJ with a non-smart alternator and 4.0L engine.
I wondered - is the output of the inverter wired into the back of the consumer unit in the van (and therefore powering all the 240v items)? and if so, is there an ability to switch between hook up power and the off grid inverter/batteries? (like an A/B mains switch)?
The multiplus has an automatic changeover. The hookup feed from the outside of the van first goes through an RCD in the consumer unit then into the multiplus then back into rcbo's in the consumer unit which go off to the sockets and any 230v appliances. The multiplus senses when hook up is attached and allows that to flow through instead of using its in built inverter.
What’s your advice if the roof is real thin glass fiber canopy. The translucent truck type stuff. I’m not really keen on bonding onto that. Mechanical to the internal crossbeams + adhesive sealend with an alu L-bracket?
I would say I'd agree with your idea of fitting it. the fibreglass wouldn't probably be strong enough. so through crossbeams and lots of OB1 or Sika Flex
@@BlueFix yeah, I agree. I’m going to just screw brackets onto the inner wooden framework, through the roof. Plus sikaflex. For bonding, but also to seal it up. Thx
Hi question. On a metal roof Do I need to take all the roof lining / over head lockers etc out of the van or just tech screw it with everything in place ? thanks
