Fuses, Switches, Bus bars, What goes where? 

Very informative information presented in a clear, easy to understand format. Keep up the good work!

Hi, Luke! Where do you get your bus-bars? What do you need to look for in them? What Amp rating or anything? Thank you!

Good info.

Hi, I was watching your video to help me plan my layout. Just had a few questions. So the main fuse before the disconnect switch is the one rated for the max inverter draw? So the inverter positive can go direct to the busbar with no other fuse? Also, what do you recommend for short circuit protect ion at the battery. I just have two 100ah lithium batteries in parallel. Some people say 125amp MRBF fuse on each positive terminal. I was thinking of using a class T before the switch, but then something seems off about using the MRBF at the terminals since the MPBF has a lower aic rating then the class T. It does not seem like there are any Class T battery post mounted options, so is MRBF the best one can do, at the terminal post for battery short circuit protection?

Looking forward to the other videos. Hope you also add the 12v fuse box to the circuit 👍

Great work, love the content. Two questions 1. What is that bare copper wire from the DC/DC converter to the shunt and isolator switch? I looked through the smart shunt and DC to DC charger and could not find a reference to it. 2nd question is going to sound very noob, my wire calculation for the alternator wire feed to the DC to DC charger is for 4AWG, but the specification on the DC to DC charger calls for 6AWG max. Am I supposed to just use a bus bar at the end and reduce the wire for the final connection? It doesn't sound right to me, but I'm not sure how else to solve it. Thanks in advance.

Im conFUSEd! So you are going to run the cables to the MPPT and DC-DC unfused?

Hi. Just found this video. What brand of bus bar did you use?

Hi such clean work! Does the cabling need to be exactly the same length between the battery and the positive side bus bar (including fuse and switch added in) and the negative side battery and the shunt (also on negative side) … or the negative side battery to the negative side bus bar (including the shunt added in). Thanks so much!

Hi Lads love your videos very informative. I've a query and wounding if you can help? I replaced the sergent solar controler on my bessacarr with a victron mppt 75/15. Solar panel 100w all sergent factory fitted. Issue once the solar panel sends in power the whole electrical system shuts down even with mains plug in any ideas what's happening? Thanks for your help if possible

Do you have a video of wiring up the DC DC CHARGER on the display board Cheers Dave

Nice 👍

Silly question but doesn’t that display board conduct electricity ? As in if the live shorts to the board it makes that full board live ??

Cables in a series connection do not have to be the same length. Cables connecting things in parallel should be.

Isnt the fuse for the battery supposed to be as close as possible to the battery? Ive seen them coming right off the terminal. And why not use a fuse that matches the wire max amperage, which you said was 300 but you only used a 200 lamp fuse?

This may sound ridiculous, and you'll probably not see this as this video is 8 months old, but here we go anyways: Your shutoff switch is between the batteries and the positive buss bar. I understand the need for that. However, if the Charge Controller runs to the positive buss bar, then shouldn't there be a shut off switch between there as well? Help me understand. Appreciate you, bro. - Ryan

Exzellent.

Ok may be a silly question but why do the cables need to be the same length?

why no Lynx Distribution instead of busbar+fuses?