If the solenoid isn't electrically bad, you don't have to replace it. Just clean the sticky residue off and put a peice of heat shrink tubing over the tab you scraped the goo off of. Cut a thin piece and just cover the end of that. Heat it up so it shrinks and it works great and it will stay on..
Hellow Sir, My Printer HP CP 4025 hs the same problem 59.F0. After doing this process when I tried to Start Printer, its displays work and scanning process started but did not complete. Fans are not running, no noise of printer starting, what should I do?
Thanks for this movie. i have a CM3530 printing fine on USB but cannot connect it via LAN, win10 dose not recognize the LAN. The cable is fine, ip4 is fine. possible the formatter board needs to replace?
Comment to Jerry: Thanks for this. After replacing the whole fuser assembly driver, I now get a 55.01.00 DC Controller memory error. I've replaced the DC Controller board (twice), and using your video (as opposed to the original one I used where you take the whole thing apart) I've been able to look at everything in a reasonable amount of time. Trouble is, I can't find anything that isn't connected. Nothing. It can't be the DC Controller, as I've replaced it twice. HP Support was less than helpful. I've posted to other printer tech forums, nobody has a suggestion I haven't tried (remove toners, remove fuser and transfer belt, check all connections, reset printer). I'm wondering if you've run up against this issue, and if you did, was there a fix? I hate to toss what should be a great printer, especially after all this work!
it wasn't strictly necessary to remove the PSU, btw, but anyway, this video helped me through the fixing process. I had seen another vid a while before, who unscrewed even more parts and almost scared me away from trying, but from there I knew how to fix the solenoid. You definitly helped saving my printer from ending up in a landfill, thanks a lot!
I disassembled the whole damn printer, based on another YT video, where you actually take the whole board out. I confirmed that the gears WERE properly aligned, so that's good. My solenoid didn't have any kind of foam on it - and there was no residue, so I don't think it ever did. Is there any way of testing the solenoid with a VOM while it's out?
I tried testing with a VOM set at 2000 Ohm, it reads 154 when open, jumps up to 248 when closed for a second, then back down to 154 - even if it's still closed. I'm very confused. Everyone is talking about the foam tape, even on other RU-vids and various sites - yet the replacement solenoids look like mine - no foam at all. Any clarification would appreciated. I also used a paperclip to test for magnetism - neither the arm nor the metal "button" it hits seem to be magnetized at all. Also the arm moves freely.
Just fixed one on my second attempt. One thing to watch for: when refitting the solenoid it's possible for the lever to catch alongside the cog instead of fitting between the teeth. I only noticed it because the slotted screw hole on the solenoid wasn't sitting back properly. The fix is to reach in through the top with a flat-blade screwdriver and move the sprung end of the lever, effectively actuating the solenoid. This allowed it to slip into place. This can be accessed from the top once the lid is removed, so no need to strip right down to get at it again, and also potentially an easy way to give the solenoid a nudge if it's caught again. Mine's now got a strip of insulating tape on the metal where the sponge pad strikes.
Too many parts removed to do this job efficiently.. no need to remove LVPS, no need to disassemble DC controller.. this step by step translates to 1.5 hours of work.. too much time to spend on this job..
I am strongly suggesting that no-one does what I have done, but for info only....... I had the grinding sound and the same 59.F0 message. Having watched this great video, I realised I do not have enough time until the weekend to address this properly. When there was talk in the comments of sticky issue and the foam on the solenoid being the issue, as a long shot, with the printer off and cold, I opened the side door and the rear inspection plate, removed the image tray and whatever it is at the top and blew a hairdryer in the direction of the solenoid for five to ten mins on medium heat, then when things were warm, turned the printer on and hey presto, managed to get the fault to go away and get on with my printing. I know it will come back, but I can deal with things at the weekend. Just thought I would share what I did in case anyone is in emergency mode, but obviously I do not recommend this course of action! Great video Jerry, many thanks.
I didnt use my CP3525 for a year and now I get a sharp grinding noise for a few seconds during the startup sequence, or if i try to print, and it aborts with the 59.F0 error. Do you think this will solve it, and do i need to reassemble everything to try, or can i try it while its still disassembled?
This is a brilliant video. Shows you everything you need to know. Well, almost. This is a involved repair, the first time I did it somehow I managed to break the duplex unit. Hopefully, the second time I try this repair I will be successful, it certainly seems to be progressing better... the printer is working again and just needs plastic covers putting back on. Many printers will have been kept out of landfill due to this video. I seriously do not know how anyone could give it a 'thumbs down'!!!
Hi, Jerry video was commendable It solved my problem step by stop without breaking the locks of my printer otherwise in Pakistan the printer should be dumped. thanks for this
Hello man Iam begginer in this work help me with your subscribe and support for sharing data for the whole world ru-vid.com/show-UCFTKpfakZLVJtOLjFuxHxIw
Thankyou mr. Jerry Hence A friend of mine had this problem. It took you 20 minutes. But it took us two days then we forgot where the wires were supposed to go and the sequence of screws. Fixed the solenoid with plastic piece. This proves companies are deliberately making products malfunction so they can throw away and buy new. This is a disgrace. GODBLESS.
Tis why there’s a less involved way to access the transfer solenoid.. no need to disassemble the DC controller and all it’s wires.. can be done in half this time
HP’s solenoid foam pad is rampant throughout all their models.. paper feed solenoids, exit/duplex solenoids.. all are junk. Get shrink wrap tubing to fix.
that same failure this model also if you have the solution to that failure would you help me a lot elgato9_15@hotmail.com if you find a solution let me know
buenos días tengo una pregunta, tengo un hp cp4525 con fallas en el contador de páginas, ella las cuenta cuando las imprimo y después de apagar la impresora y encenderla, resta las páginas ya impresas del contador, sabes qué está pasando eso? ¿Tienes alguna solución para ese falla o error?
good morning I have a question, I have an hp cp4525 with faults in the page counter, she counts them when I print them and after I turn off the printer and turn it on she subtracts the pages already printed from the counter, you know what is happening that? do you have any solution for that failure?
Thank you for saving me considerable amount of time. So many HP printers experience this problem, if only they used a piece of rubber instead of gluing a spongy foam.
Certain rubber compounds can get gooey over time, too. "Ascom feet" were a messy encounter at work, where the rubber feet on Ascom line drivers (and BT Kilostream boxes which used the same case) would melt into a sticky gob. If you were lucky they'd catch your hand. If not so lucky, your sleeve.
@@Okipentv And you don't even have to replace the solenoid. Technicians have many different ways to deal with these sticking solenoids. Some repad them with the same material, some use black tape... I heard of one guy using super glue and tiny pieces of tire innertube. Personally, I don't repad them. But you have to do SOMETHING to them, otherwise the metal plate becomes magnetized, and it sticks down--the same thing it does when the padding gets old. So you can bend the part of the solenoid, as illustrated in the pics below. I've been doing it this way for years, on HP, Dell, Brother, and dozens of other machines. It's always worked, and I've never have to revisit a solenoid that I've fixed.
