The solenoid has a tendency to age and start sticking thus causing the 59.F0 error code. This is the 20 minute tear-down to show you how to get to that solenoid.
Thank you for saving me considerable amount of time. So many HP printers experience this problem, if only they used a piece of rubber instead of gluing a spongy foam.
Certain rubber compounds can get gooey over time, too. "Ascom feet" were a messy encounter at work, where the rubber feet on Ascom line drivers (and BT Kilostream boxes which used the same case) would melt into a sticky gob. If you were lucky they'd catch your hand. If not so lucky, your sleeve.
This is a brilliant video. Shows you everything you need to know. Well, almost. This is a involved repair, the first time I did it somehow I managed to break the duplex unit. Hopefully, the second time I try this repair I will be successful, it certainly seems to be progressing better... the printer is working again and just needs plastic covers putting back on. Many printers will have been kept out of landfill due to this video. I seriously do not know how anyone could give it a 'thumbs down'!!!
I am strongly suggesting that no-one does what I have done, but for info only....... I had the grinding sound and the same 59.F0 message. Having watched this great video, I realised I do not have enough time until the weekend to address this properly. When there was talk in the comments of sticky issue and the foam on the solenoid being the issue, as a long shot, with the printer off and cold, I opened the side door and the rear inspection plate, removed the image tray and whatever it is at the top and blew a hairdryer in the direction of the solenoid for five to ten mins on medium heat, then when things were warm, turned the printer on and hey presto, managed to get the fault to go away and get on with my printing. I know it will come back, but I can deal with things at the weekend. Just thought I would share what I did in case anyone is in emergency mode, but obviously I do not recommend this course of action! Great video Jerry, many thanks.
Thankyou mr. Jerry Hence A friend of mine had this problem. It took you 20 minutes. But it took us two days then we forgot where the wires were supposed to go and the sequence of screws. Fixed the solenoid with plastic piece. This proves companies are deliberately making products malfunction so they can throw away and buy new. This is a disgrace. GODBLESS.
Tis why there’s a less involved way to access the transfer solenoid.. no need to disassemble the DC controller and all it’s wires.. can be done in half this time
it wasn't strictly necessary to remove the PSU, btw, but anyway, this video helped me through the fixing process. I had seen another vid a while before, who unscrewed even more parts and almost scared me away from trying, but from there I knew how to fix the solenoid. You definitly helped saving my printer from ending up in a landfill, thanks a lot!
Just fixed one on my second attempt. One thing to watch for: when refitting the solenoid it's possible for the lever to catch alongside the cog instead of fitting between the teeth. I only noticed it because the slotted screw hole on the solenoid wasn't sitting back properly. The fix is to reach in through the top with a flat-blade screwdriver and move the sprung end of the lever, effectively actuating the solenoid. This allowed it to slip into place. This can be accessed from the top once the lid is removed, so no need to strip right down to get at it again, and also potentially an easy way to give the solenoid a nudge if it's caught again. Mine's now got a strip of insulating tape on the metal where the sponge pad strikes.
Hi, Jerry video was commendable It solved my problem step by stop without breaking the locks of my printer otherwise in Pakistan the printer should be dumped. thanks for this
good morning I have a question, I have an hp cp4525 with faults in the page counter, she counts them when I print them and after I turn off the printer and turn it on she subtracts the pages already printed from the counter, you know what is happening that? do you have any solution for that failure?
buenos días tengo una pregunta, tengo un hp cp4525 con fallas en el contador de páginas, ella las cuenta cuando las imprimo y después de apagar la impresora y encenderla, resta las páginas ya impresas del contador, sabes qué está pasando eso? ¿Tienes alguna solución para ese falla o error?
Thanks for this movie. i have a CM3530 printing fine on USB but cannot connect it via LAN, win10 dose not recognize the LAN. The cable is fine, ip4 is fine. possible the formatter board needs to replace?
HP’s solenoid foam pad is rampant throughout all their models.. paper feed solenoids, exit/duplex solenoids.. all are junk. Get shrink wrap tubing to fix.
Hellow Sir, My Printer HP CP 4025 hs the same problem 59.F0. After doing this process when I tried to Start Printer, its displays work and scanning process started but did not complete. Fans are not running, no noise of printer starting, what should I do?
Comment to Jerry: Thanks for this. After replacing the whole fuser assembly driver, I now get a 55.01.00 DC Controller memory error. I've replaced the DC Controller board (twice), and using your video (as opposed to the original one I used where you take the whole thing apart) I've been able to look at everything in a reasonable amount of time. Trouble is, I can't find anything that isn't connected. Nothing. It can't be the DC Controller, as I've replaced it twice. HP Support was less than helpful. I've posted to other printer tech forums, nobody has a suggestion I haven't tried (remove toners, remove fuser and transfer belt, check all connections, reset printer). I'm wondering if you've run up against this issue, and if you did, was there a fix? I hate to toss what should be a great printer, especially after all this work!
Thank you Jerry! Our HP CP3525N works again after this dreaded 59.F0 error. I followed your video forwards and backwards to get at the solenoid and then put everything back. For the solenoid repair, I followed Jay Groh's video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KvXO8MymNh0.html I used a toothpick to remove the sponge. Then I used a wet paper towel to wipe away the sticky residue. I used black vinyl electrical tape to wrap around the area of the metal plate that hits what used to be the sponge area of the solenoid. I actually saw Csavar Nyúzó's video first: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ak8hkSuRyOk.html I was about a quarter of the way through but switched gears to Jerry's method because it didn't involve removing so many components especially all the printer parts on the right side when facing the printer's display panel. Some suggestions for the folks out there: 1. Take lots of pix before ripping out cables, wires, connections, etc. This came in very handy when putting back all the connections for the boards above the power supply. 2. I did not leave the metal plate for the square board hanging to the side. I carefully removed the wire mess from the black plastic wire management system so that I can remove the metal plate. I left the black plastic wire management system attached to the metal plate. 3. I documented where all the screws go. I poked them through paper and then wrote and drew diagrams.
I disassembled the whole damn printer, based on another YT video, where you actually take the whole board out. I confirmed that the gears WERE properly aligned, so that's good. My solenoid didn't have any kind of foam on it - and there was no residue, so I don't think it ever did. Is there any way of testing the solenoid with a VOM while it's out?
I tried testing with a VOM set at 2000 Ohm, it reads 154 when open, jumps up to 248 when closed for a second, then back down to 154 - even if it's still closed. I'm very confused. Everyone is talking about the foam tape, even on other RU-vids and various sites - yet the replacement solenoids look like mine - no foam at all. Any clarification would appreciated. I also used a paperclip to test for magnetism - neither the arm nor the metal "button" it hits seem to be magnetized at all. Also the arm moves freely.
@@Okipentv And you don't even have to replace the solenoid. Technicians have many different ways to deal with these sticking solenoids. Some repad them with the same material, some use black tape... I heard of one guy using super glue and tiny pieces of tire innertube. Personally, I don't repad them. But you have to do SOMETHING to them, otherwise the metal plate becomes magnetized, and it sticks down--the same thing it does when the padding gets old. So you can bend the part of the solenoid, as illustrated in the pics below. I've been doing it this way for years, on HP, Dell, Brother, and dozens of other machines. It's always worked, and I've never have to revisit a solenoid that I've fixed.
Just fix the solenoid by taking off the arm with it's spring & clean off all the sticky quiet pad that has turned to mush & either leave nothing in its place which will only have it make a slight clicking sound as the arm hits the magnet or, replace the quiet pad with a small piece of cotton from a q-tip spread out thinly where the old pad was & a 2 inch piece of clear tape going from the round magnet head & over the cotton & past it & to the back side of the metal L shape. The tape will then stay there as long as the printer lasts. I have never had a bad solenoid, just hundreds of sticky quiet pads from getting old & disintegrating.
Thanks alot this was a nice tutorial, we need you, am more into this job with a passion. And the screw driver, nice we need it together with the touch. Thank you once more.
If the solenoid isn't electrically bad, you don't have to replace it. Just clean the sticky residue off and put a peice of heat shrink tubing over the tab you scraped the goo off of. Cut a thin piece and just cover the end of that. Heat it up so it shrinks and it works great and it will stay on..
You do not have to replace the solenoid, just clean the sticky foam and left over glue off of it, the deteriorating piece of foam designed to damp the tap noise when solenoid engages, that have been a common problem in printers and copiers for several decades.
I didnt use my CP3525 for a year and now I get a sharp grinding noise for a few seconds during the startup sequence, or if i try to print, and it aborts with the 59.F0 error. Do you think this will solve it, and do i need to reassemble everything to try, or can i try it while its still disassembled?
Sir. I can't thank you enough. I was able to take my old printer apart and fix the solenoid myself. I actually repaired it by watching ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KvXO8MymNh0.html @2:29. I had to take it apart twice because I had put to much tape the first time. Great job with the camera angles everything was easy to understand.
Too many parts removed to do this job efficiently.. no need to remove LVPS, no need to disassemble DC controller.. this step by step translates to 1.5 hours of work.. too much time to spend on this job..
