Hi I have very important question but no one else answer yet, u have a built pump on ciss system for white ink and a mixer( 1 hose for put in ink second hose for return circulation?), do u switch on your pump when u printing or before u printing and then off when printing ?? could u show your connection for return hose in the print head do u have a 2x Y connector or 4ways one connector ?, how strong u pun your pump to work its very slow,very fast or just to move constant flow ? I have 4 ways connector and when I starting my prints about 5 min before I switch on mixer and pump but I noticed that's my white ink when pump is on connector sucking different colours from print head and make it grey instead of white. maybe that's 4way connector causing suck. connector looks like ⬅⬆⬆➡ where on left arrow its in white ink,right arrow its out ink and arrows up its head conteiners for white ink. thank u
I didn't use a circulation pump with my 8550. Both white lines just fed the printer. I also quit using the 8550 and I was never able to get more than 6-7 months out of a head. I've since purchased a real dtf printer.
You are correct! We have started laminating them since this video. This is really intended for those who don't have lam or want to control the speed of their boards
I currently have a raw wood board. Before I apply a wrap should I polyurethane to the top of the raw board to help protect it? OR will that action cause the wrap not to adhere properly? Thanks, Kurt
Your vinyl is so flat and doesn’t roll up. How you you get so flat? And we are having trouble with our vinyl lifting on the edges. How do we stop that?
a couple of questions: do you always put down a layer of poly before putting down your wraps? I've seen others put wraps down on plain wood. why might someone use laminated wrap vs. non-laminayed? Are those cutting tools $50 each or for the pair?
www.gopdesign.com for the tools Either put a layer down ( or two) or use UV finished plywood. I do not recommend applying the vinyl to bare wood. Laminated wraps are easier and more durable. It saved you time and money
Hi there...In one of your reply's to a comment you said "...save and buy a printer built for DTF"...now that you have been using a converted printer, is it your opinion that that would be the less headache but more expensive way you would do it if you had to do it all over? I converted an Epson WF7720 ($250) to sublimation and love it 3+ years however, DTF printer packages are around $1500-$1800 on the low end. Honest pro opinion would be worth hearing/reading. Thanks for all the info!
I went through several 8550 printers that all failed due to various reasons. They just aren't meant for dtf. We did invest in a large format DTF printer. It was the best decision we made for our apparel business. Yes, you'll be $5-8k out of pocket minimum...but it's worth it
Slighty unrelated, but I was hoping that you crafty ladies/gents might be able to help me or at least point me in the right direction. We are going to be using corn hole boards as our guest book at the wedding this Summer. I wanted something different, and at least this time, whenever we play we will remember the day. ANYWAY, the board is covered with a customized vinyl wrap with our last name on it. What would be the best to have guests sign with and still be able to seal after (and what would be the best seal that isn't going to degrade when sealer is applied) I thought black and or metalic sharpies, but wasn't sure how they would hold up under a seal coat. Then I thought OOOO A Paint pen, but then do i do water/oil based? I'm so confused
I really want to get my 8550 set up like this. Every CISS w/ white stirrer I see on Aliexpress comes with dampers for like the L805/L1800/15000, and not couplers. Having a hard time finding couplers to connect the CISS. Did your kit come with the elbow style, or the straight barbed type?
I think I might have to replace my 8550, I received the dreaded “paper jam” error with no paper jam, this is after having the printer for 6mos and regular maintenance. I want to buy another 8550 but want to use this CISS system….im on the fence about it
You might try running a few sheets of white paper through the rear tray to see if it will take those. If it will, it might just be a matter of cleaning the rollers. If not, my opinion now is to order bulk transfers from a wholesale printer (us or someone local to you) and save until you can afford a printer built for DTF.
Question! I ordered some cornhole boards off of Amazon, I was going to lay down wallpaper and then a vinyl decal over the top of that. What is the best process for me to do this and have it durable for outside etc
Awesome video thank you. Can you still polycrylic over laminated wraps for added protection and to help the edges stick? Or will it be too built up and soft if you do?
Good day, thank you for your very insightful articles and videos. As you are by far the best informed expert I could find, I hope you can answer my question. I am planning to convert an Epson printer to be able to print on a powder distribution system (spreading thin layers of plaster on top of each other, the Epson prints an image on each layer), thus achieving a full colour 3D powder printer. In my view, the best way to do this is to leave the printer as untouched as possible, and only through hacking the the encoder make it ‘riding’ on two rails above the powder bed. My choice has fallen on the et-8550 to do this with. A system such as this is only possible if the area where the printers operates, can be completely exposed, so only the printhead moves above the powder bed. Because there are no good diy’s for dtg available, this is hard to determine is this is even possible with this model. Do you perhaps know the answer? Kind regards, Eric van Straaten
Hi, I have this same ciss and have it set up almost identical to the way that you do. No matter what I do, within a day or two of clearing them out, air bubbles appear in the ink tubes just after the tubes exit the ciss ink tank. I've even installed a one way valve in the tubing but that hasn't fixed it. Did you ever have this problem and if so, how did you fix it? Thanks.
You do very well answering questions. I’ve been getting bubbles in my polyacrylic when it’s dry. How do I stop that from happening on my final coat so I don’t have to keep sanding them out?
I'm trying to take my tanks out, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how it all comes apart. When you get time, you think you could show video of how to get those damn things out of there! ---LOL!
