Felix Techno Aid is a tech review channel created to help customers or end users of electronic & electrical products to know more how to use those products in proper manner, How to service them, How to clean them, it also help technicians who invested in home appliances or home entertainment products repair workshops to gain much technical knowledge on How to repair, How to install, How to service, washing machines, Fridges, TVs, Microwave ovens, Gas cookers, Blenders, kitchen hoods, Home theaters, our video will also cover DIY (Do it yourself) technical projects to help technical school students to sharpen theirs mind, watch , subscribe, comment, share, our video for mutual and shared benefits ,thank you
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the solution is for people who need to do washing now. My wife couldn't wait for the part to arrive while the washing is piling up. As long as you don't have children this solution works well for grown ups.
Hello great video exactly what i was looking for and well explained. I have one that has stopped working, red light remains on and never goes to green. There are some resistors under the big capacitor but they are all burned and I do not know the values. Measuring with a meter ready various values from 409 Ohm to 470 Ohms but the first colour looks to be brown. Please could you tell me what value these should be? On an unrelated question. Ever since learning electronics I was told there should be a transformer to drop the voltage from 220v AC to the lower voltage. After passing the 4 diode brigde the 5.24V comes from 78L05 but where does the 12/24V DC to switch the relay come from?
Hello, I need your help. I bypassed the switch just by adding some thick tape inside the internal part of switch to remain pressed and make contact all the time. I did not remove the thermal sensor nor the spring mechanism. Now the door is permanently locked and unable to open😅. Even when i try mechanical force bypass by pressing the lock with haxo blade it doesnt work. Please guide to solve this thanks
looks like you forgot to remove the lock part. Felix didn't show this step in the video. He only said to do it. I'm glad I watch it a few times to make sure.
Thank you and your video, I was able to replace my motor rotor position sensor easily and avoided throwing away a good washer (8 years old), $700 for a new one, not to mention the damage to the environment. I want to share my experience so that it will help the other readers. My washer is Kenmore, front load, Model 41162 installed inside the house laundry room. Bought in 2015 and in 2023 it flashed the “LE” code. I called the Sears Parts & Repair service and I had to pay $40 for the consultation which was “motor problem, better off buying a new washer”. I ordered a new washer at the Home depo. While waiting for the delivery, I came across the “LE” code reset video (unplug the washer power cord, push the power button and then the start button for 10 seconds each). I tried that, it worked and I cancelled the order for the new washer. But, 2 months later “LE” code flashed again. I saw your video and tried to order the sensor from sears Parts Direct. I used their chat to make sure I am getting the right part. Their recommendation was to buy the complete stator assembly for ~$200, as the sensor comes with it. I searched with my washer model# myself and found a sensor #6501KW2001A from their online catalog for $37. I ordered it and it came after a week. The package was dirty, labels torn as if it was a returned item. I measured the resistances on the connector to see if it is a good part. The video from Felix Techno Aid showed this. Hold the part with the connector to the left, then the first pin from left is 1, the gnd. Followed by 2,3,4,5. The resistance between pins 1 and 4, 1 and 5 should be in the range 10-12 KOhms. The part from Sears Parts Direct had values ~8.8KOhms. So, it was a bad part and I returned it. I removed the sensor from my washer (rotor is held by one bolt that needs 17 mm socket, stator is held by 6 bolts, that need 10mm socket) and found it had the part#6501KW2002A. It had pin 1-5, 10.3 KOhms, but 1-4 was open. Then I ordered the exact sensor part from Amazon/LG part store for ~$32 and not the $10 ones to make sure I got the good part. When the part came, the package and the part looked new, and the measured values were ~11.2KOhms. So, it was a good part and I installed it. Viola! Success. The washer is working like it is new. I want to acknowledge other good videos on this subject, Appliance Parts Pros.com, Repair Clinic.com and IFixit by Bill Gilbert. Thank you all for your videos.
Anyone helpppppp. I replaced the sensor but still getting the le error. The drum is locked up. It tries to turn it but gets stuck. If I try and force the drum to rotor it sounds real grindy
I just replaced my hub tub and the main gear drive shaft, the gears were worn down and making terrible grinder noises, should of bought a new washer.. now it's giving me the LE error
Adjusting the screw can cause the lock not to unlock. You then have to remove the top of the machine and remove the switch from the body. I just removed the red latch protuding from the switch with a grinder so it no long latches.
see how you can test H.V capacitor for microwave oven, how do you know if H.V capacitor is fauly? find more in this video👇👇 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dxaK2u2JaTM.htmlsi=3rC1v5UZXr6i79ah
what about the electronic door latch with doors unable to open and without possibility to release them manually from the filter becausw some dick ripped that plastic thing and ita not even possible to get there from inside because no space to put hand in there. fck
I respect and appreciate the video either way. I'll buy a new one but it never hurts to know how to fix if you can't buy one or they stop making the parts.
This video helped me diagnose and replace only the sensor as opposed to the stator. The sensor cost me $8 and about an hours worth of time. The stator was going to cost $125 or up to $200 dollars depending on where I purchased it. I liked and subscribed. Th al you again!
@@felixtechnoaid2044 , I was just thinking you could use a diode and then put a resistor to simulate the lock exactly, you just need to know how much resistance the thermal material produces cold vs hot. But if a direct connection works, then 👍
