After suggestions from my wife and friends I decided to share with you all here what I'm doing with my cars. Working on them isn't really as hard as many "techs" describes it! ;) And I also got angry that so many people are greedy on theirs knowledge and not willing to share it with anyone at any cost, well here is different and whatever I do, I'm going to share here!
See my Instagram for more Mazda/track content if you got not enough yet 😁
How is the engine rebuild holding out? Did the MLS head gaskets work good? Just about to put my engine back together, but I did not have it machined as it was just a spun bearing. Just got a bit worried as I heard that MLS head gaskets need a special machine shop finish.. I just cleaned mine with razor blade... did you do anything more?
Was it reliable in the end? What did you use to clean your head gasket surfaces - do you need to do anything special for these MLS headgaskets in the Mazda engines?
These videos are awesome thanks for sharing I'm thinking of having a go at rebuilding an st170 and your video has helped or at least got me thinking I can do it instead of me thinking I'm not sure, a great visual representation to follow, thanks a lot mate :-)
Hej oglądam twój filmik i tak się zastanawiam czym jest sterowane koło zmiennej fazy rozrządu? Żywcem brakuje ci elektrozaworu na głowicy który wystaje z pokrywy zaworów ? Nawet teraz robię rozrząd w takim 😁
Hej, niczym bo stosowałem w tym silniku blok i tłoki z durateca. Blok Forda nie ma magistrali do zasilania VVT a tłoki nie mają podcięć pod zawory, nie było eiec jsk vvt odpalić. Taki eksperyment 😉
Is that the master cylinder? Because I thought that was the slave. The master cylinder is the one that the clutch pedal piston pushes into, higher up on the firewall next to the brake booster
Fantastic video! I’m going to be rebuilding my head soon due to failed valve seals. This is very well done and gave me confidence to do the job and get the timing right in car instead of on the bench.
I used to teach honing as part of a course at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute in Orlando Florida. Nothing wrong with using a drill for honing but you need a rigid hone, that one is just a glaze buster (and all those cylinders needed) A rigid hone can hold 0.0001" tolerance with just a bit of practice even with a hand drill motor, particularly if it's yours and not a 'training aid' Looks like a 'shadow' at top of cylinder? (5:09 mins) You need to match rpm with stroke length for best cross hatch, you slowed down too much on # 3 cyl at top of stroke. Aim for 45 degree, by hand it's about easiest to do, your look a bit 'flat' in later shots?
They're very similar but there are very few differences. H beam rods fits both but the pistons on these won't work with aftermarket rods anyways due push fit piston pin design.
Increíble circuito tenéis por allí!!! Qué suerte!!! Una pena el incidente del Miata por el fallo de Misha... Cosas que pasan, incluso a profesionales como él. Un saludo desde España!!!
Hello sir very good job!! I'm going to rebuild a Ford focus HXDA 1.600 ti-vct 2006 year engine for my client and at the Ford manuals or at HaynesPro or at autodata says don't loose crankshaft or conrods bolts because the engine block is not serviceable or repairable and they don't give any specs of oil clearance, journals specs etc or the option to buy new crankshaft bearing bolts or conrods bolts... and I don't know what to do we don't want to just buy a used engine. Have you ever repair this kind of engine and what specs or parts do you use?? Optical is like this engine you repair. If you can't infor me I would be grateful! Thanks in advance! Best regards!!
Love these videos and very informative. Just one question as I’ve read in the comments you’ve boosted this engine and you’ve mentioned the st / ecoboost oil pump is this what you are running? And if so how’s it holding up?
great job! thank you for all the information provided. First question, how many miles had the engine run before the rebuilding?, second, till today, does it works with no oil burning? third, and most important, the cylinders had signs of wear that needed honing or need for rectify ? this is the main position for my mecanics who deny to open my engine only for piston rings, they say that its not possible for an engine of 165.000 kms , or 100.000 miles to need only piston rings...
Great video but my only critic is that you should have gotten the crank and crank gear machined to accept a keyway. In the UK its around £150 to have done. Much more reliable. I have a spare ST150 Duratec in my shed I will be stripping down soon, that will be my plan. My ST is supercharged with a rotrex C30 94. So it makes sense.
Thank you! I will be totally honest, it was my first ever Duratec engine I've been through (I did BMWs only for past 10 years), and so I was learning on it here. As of today I've been through 3 of these, and the one from video being currently boosted with gt2871, however it did great job and rev up to 8k with no tiny hiccups over this year being N/A. I do have two MZRs ready for rebuildanx these will be where Im going to put all goodness available on the market. Hopefully will be able to get more time for videoing and editing as I do now, to share it with you here too
@@davidleal923 crankshaft casing bolts have stretch limits and must be checked and measured before installation a shown on video, I've used old ones but in the toleration and been fine. I had feedback about using ARP bolts here as they're applying higher torque and force at the crank crate and might interfere with the bearing clearances, that's why I've remained with OEM bolt there.
Great rebuild series! You mentioned you wouldn’t lap the valves again (because of need to resize the buckets). And you would send to machine shop instead. What would they do differently?
Thank you! Well I would send it away just to save myself time also having not big machining tools background and doing everything by hand you have to put much more work into checking everything few times and adding corrections. There are three ways of setting valve gaps there, one is getting lifter in right size, other is skimming oversized lifter, or skimming the valve itself.
I'm now over 2k miles on that engine, including two heavy trackdays and have zero issues so far. I'm going to test them even further with boost over winter.
Haha you got me mate 😂 what happens on the track stay on the track especially when adrenaline rises, no offences made just good memories and lot of fun! How was your day there mate?
@@ColdieGarage Great day with fantastic weather although when these madmen in the beemers come up behind you and blip the throttle and their engine barks like a dog ! You realise the the wee MX5 is severely underpowered 183.5 bhp at the flywheel, although it does not detract from the enjoyment and gets the adrenaline flowing.
Worst engine design I have ever seen. None of the bearings have tabs to stop bearings from rotating. As soon as the rod bearing start to wear, the bearings spin and trash the crank. Never seen this in any imported car. Ford sucks
I must disagree here, all these bearings being hold in place by the torque of the rod bolt crushing the bearing into the bore of the rod, regardless they're with tangs or not. Tangs on these are only for correct orientation during instalation, in case of bearings without tangs like in my video here bearings must be placed and spaced accordingly to manual values, that's the only difference. Duratec is Mazda design so kinda "import" motor too. I did work at Nissan's RBs and VQs and SRs, all these have tangs, and all of them spun bearings even sooner than Duratecs. Bearings does wear only in poorly maintained or extremely abused engines where oil and it's pressure doesn't do it's job anymore. In properly built and working motor there is no physical contact between crank and rod bearings, if it is there is nothing that can stop failure especially tangs on bearings.
Can't see why not, it's not something unusual and seen it being done many times in other brands, so the Mazda did same in later facelifted engine. I'm going to see over the winter how these will handle boost, however now, everything is sweet so far 👌
Part list for the timing with link I've used, I'm not sponsored but I've been happy with all suppliers in here so can recommend. For the entire engine, I'm planning doing episode where I will do summary and total cost of rebuild, as I'm having bit of laugh seeing refurbished/rebuilt engines for £1k, where to do job properly you need to spend much more in the parts only. The full list 👇 Crank pulley Febi Bilstein www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334731672814?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yi1ojZncSxy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8HyVoAgvQga&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Camshaft bolts x2, genuine Mazda from Bofi bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/engine-fasteners/genuine-camshaft-pulley-bolt-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Crankshaft bolt genuine Mazda www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401728517358?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WpJywXikSIO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8HyVoAgvQga&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Ford Duratec timing kit, much cheaper with no Mazda price tag, i have VVT deleted so was fine for my 2.0, however if it goes at MZR engines i would highly advice to replace VVT gear at same time too. www.eurocarparts.com/p/fai-timing-chain-kit-352590060 Camshaft diamond washers X2 Genuine Mazda from Bofi bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/gaskets-seals/genuine-camshaft-pulley-friction-washer-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Crankshaft diamond washers x2 genuine Mazda from Bofi bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/gaskets-seals/genuine-crankshaft-friction-washer-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Crank pulley seal, i've bought full gasket set from Elring, however Bofi also sells them separately bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/gaskets-seals/genuine-front-main-crankshaft-seal-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Dirko sealant, my personal preference, using it for years with no issues and it's grey so it looks nice and clean on w done, not like disgusting red 🤮 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184396370125?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lURu03rFT4e&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8HyVoAgvQga&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hey mate, glad I’ve stumbled across your videos as I’m beginning to build a forged st150 turbo conversion, I want to be able to run high boost and my cylinders have been rebored to 88.5, would you be able to give some guidance to ring gap sizes for the medium/high boost? Thanks
I would stick with the chart provided by your piston manufacturers. I have no experience in boosting Duratec yet to say what worked best for me, but on BMW where i ran Wiseco pistons I've gapped rings accordingly to their provided chart depending on application and level of boost. It's simply, cylinder bore x value provided for specific application in inches.
Using factory cam gears there is not much to adjust I'm afraid. To have some play in timing you will need to install vernier pulleys or run VVT. You have enough room to loose cam gear bolt with just rocker cover off BTW. And last part coming out very soon, finishing car was my main priority in past few days, didn't have much time to work on videos
What size pistons and rings did you use? Are they standard or oversized? And also what grit honing tool did you use? Only asking as I'm stripping my duratec down the weekend out of my st150
I've used 220 grit i believe, it's absolutely not the correct way of doing it but just for adding bit of roughness for new rings to seat faster worked well. I went with standard pistons, but they've measured very close to standard size. Piston rings for that particular engine was Hepotile 87.50mm, standard size for 2.0 Duratec, and I did still have to grind them slightly down to get them up to spec
@@ColdieGarage thank you for reply, cylinder 2 and 3 have 10-15psi whereas 1 and 4 were alot better, should I hone the cylinder's then measure with dial gauge or the other way round? Also, did you check/adjust valve clearances?
