Building my 2.0 Duratec / MZR engine, PART 1 Bottom End prep and assembly 

Thank you, I have no experience with these turboed yet, all I've done in past were older BMWs which engine Internals were far more beefier and more forgiving on a bad tune. If you're worried about bottom end, Mazda 3 and most of cars with transverse mounted engines have much more room to work at them from underneath, so pulling sump and peeking at the rod bearings is way much easier than for example in my case where engine is placed longitudinally for RWD and covered with subframe. First and easiest place to spot that's something going wrong is oil filter Internals, cut it open and look for potential metal shavings 👌

It's always needed! I've done that off camera and stated my measurements in the end of previous video, sorry if that's confusing

@@ColdieGarage oh, gotcha! Thanks for the info. Are you able to use the same bolts twice?

@@davidleal923 crankshaft casing bolts have stretch limits and must be checked and measured before installation a shown on video, I've used old ones but in the toleration and been fine. I had feedback about using ARP bolts here as they're applying higher torque and force at the crank crate and might interfere with the bearing clearances, that's why I've remained with OEM bolt there.

Im very sorry but have no experience with these to advise anything

From the Ford manuals mate

Wszystkie te silniki to jedna rodzina więc nie sugeruj się opisem przy zakupie , ARP 251-6202, pozdrawiam 😉

@@ColdieGarage a do panewek głównych?

Hi, my engine is combination of Fiesta ST150 Duratec, Mazda MZR/L3, and Ford ST 2.3 Ecoboost. They're all very similar but not same and have some differences.

@@ColdieGarage that’s cool. What are you using, the ST 2.0 block or the MZR? And what parts are you using from the Fiesta? I’m building a turbo Duartec 2.0 with 2.3 heads.

@@mr.nobody42 well, my build is more like "why not" than max performace, however i do plan turbo it over next winter. Im using fiesta ST bottom end as its cheap and accesible compared to MZR one, together with MZR 6M8G head with VVT delete from sport MX5 NC for its great flow, and ecoboost oil pump for more efficiency. However keep in mind, the blocks are slightly different, and Duratec one is missing oil gallery thats feeds VVT on MZR 2.0 in mazda mx5 for example. What is your engine going into?

Can a 2.0 duratec engine go straight into an mx5?

@@mtb1342 Sorry for late reply, yes it does however there are few differences and it won't run straight away as Ford uses different camshaft triggers than Mazda do. ST150 block does not support VVT as its missing oil gallery thats feeds it, also pistons doesnt have valve reliefs, so its not ideal to use as Mazda 2.0 MZR replacement but will be still great upgrade over Mazda 1.8 MZR engine, and in that case will run just fine only with cams replaced as both doesn't come with VVT.

Tak, aż tak widać? 😁

I must disagree here, all these bearings being hold in place by the torque of the rod bolt crushing the bearing into the bore of the rod, regardless they're with tangs or not. Tangs on these are only for correct orientation during instalation, in case of bearings without tangs like in my video here bearings must be placed and spaced accordingly to manual values, that's the only difference. Duratec is Mazda design so kinda "import" motor too. I did work at Nissan's RBs and VQs and SRs, all these have tangs, and all of them spun bearings even sooner than Duratecs. Bearings does wear only in poorly maintained or extremely abused engines where oil and it's pressure doesn't do it's job anymore. In properly built and working motor there is no physical contact between crank and rod bearings, if it is there is nothing that can stop failure especially tangs on bearings.