Not with this one. It's a simple analog circuit.

Excellent question. Think of amperage as a supply and voltage as pressure. You can connect one pedal to a 500mA supply, and have energy left over, so long as that supply doesn't push out more than 9 volts. Each pedal will only draw as much power as it needs. So if a pedal draws 35 mA, that's all it gets. The volts refers to how much gets pushed OUT...so connecting a 9V pedal (which these all are) to an 18V supply will fry your pedal. Connecting an 18V pedal to a 9V supply won't give it enough to work. As long as you connect 9V to 9V, you can connect as many pedals to that supply as it can handle. You can probably even daisy chain a couple to the 100 mA supplies, as these all run well under 100 mA each. The setup in the video is just the cleanest way to do it.

@@woodsnstrings Thank you so very much for the kind and very clear explanation. Your help is most appreciated and you HAVE helped me tremendously. Best wishes!

@@camdix3250 my pleasure. Keep us posted on how it goes!

I can't speak to yours specifically, but any new guitar should get a setup. Try checking the neck relief first before going after the saddle. 4mm is really high, but that screams neck bow to me.

Yeah I find it sounds better as a preamp, although you can get it sounding good through the amp if you put the time into dialing in both sets of EQs. Generally if you get a distortion that sounds kind of flubby, try it in the FX return as a pre and you'll fall in love with it.

Donner is a company based in China.

Glad you enjoyed it, and welcome to your next addiction! I'm not far from you. If you need help setting it up let me know.

@@woodsnstrings Thank you so much!

I...don't even know how to answer this question or if it's even a real question at all. Pedals are powered by electricity. Most, like this one, use a 9V battery (I don't use batteries) or a pedal power supply. In this case, as in the majority of cases, it's a 9V adapter with a center negative pin and a minimum of 100mA of available power. You plug it in.

I've been running these guitars for about two years now with no issues, so this is the first I've heard of it. That said, depending on how long you've had them, you might be able to get some warranty help from Donner -- I'd contact their support team first. If you do want new tuners, you can usually get a good set of Gotoh or Graph Tech tuners for around $100 (sometimes less in the US).

As far as the color, yes it's more of a graphite, it's really beautiful.

That sucks. I'd definitely say you got a bad batch or something -- contact the company. I'm not their support division...I just demo what I get. But in almost 40 years of playing guitar, I've never had a guitar's paint start chipping off. I don't mean after a day of playing...I mean EVER. The only time chipping has ever been an issue is if I've banged it on something and chipped the paint myself. Then sometimes the crack and chip will grow over time. (For the fans of relic finishes...I've also never worn through the paint on a guitar either LOL. I've had some guys come through my shop with mid-70s Strats and Les Pauls that have been played for longer than I've been alive...they might be scratched and have bad buckle rash, but I have yet to see a worn finish that looks like a custom shop relic.) I've got over 20 guitars in my studio. Most are budget instruments from Donner and Eart. None of them have paint randomly falling off of them. And they get played A LOT. If this was something you painted I might be able to guess at why you didn't get good adhesion, but I've never heard of this happening on a factory guitar, so you might want to bring it up with their support team.

Probably the same as any other guitar. It's just an acoustic configuration without a resonating chamber. Did fine in standard tuning with a slide for my Eagles set.

Thanks. The prices go up and down all the time. People can just set a price drop alert.

Not that I've experienced. The only thing I can suggest is make sure the power supply is only putting out 9V, as higher voltages can cause overheating and damage. Try contacting Donner support (I don't work for them...I just demo the gear).

You mean the gauge of the strings. It ships with acoustic light strings (11's), but you can put any strings on it you like as long as they have a ball end.

That is one of my custom models, "Luonnotar," built from a Solo PRK-10 kit, hand-finished, and upgraded with Graph Tech hardware, Iron Age accessories, and a pair of Pegcity Pickups Superclutch humbuckers. You can check it out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W9vaRtDIgfI.htmlsi=HTvqEeIPyv2zIcoR It's on an A-frame stand by the way, not just leaning against the wall 😉

@@woodsnstrings wow! Beautiful guitar!!

Haha right?! Thing is, you don't always have control of the backline at the gig, and those brights can be brutal. I try to make a habit of dialing in my tones with the tone at about 7 so I have some headroom for solos. I do like things wide open for sure though :)

​@@woodsnstrings each to his own. I don't use tone knobs. I feel guitars sound better without them. More lively. :)

It can be, although using the key makes tuning fairly quick work. I tend to set my acoustics up for one tuning and leave it there.

Honestly either will do fine. I think the 152 is better built and more flexible, and comes set up a little better out of the box (you should take it to someone local and have them do a setup though -- that goes for any guitar). It will perform better and be worth keeping as you progress.

The scale is pretty standard. I haven't had any issues.

@@woodsnstrings based on what I heard… strat length neck.. that’s cool

You could try but the bridge is compensated for intonation so you'll likely run into issues there.

Thanks! Just practice.

It really is. Check it out in a mix: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xkME3SmUzp0.html

It is quite a good drum.

@@woodsnstrings good to know. i'm considering tongue drum instead of full handpan. i don't have the budget yet 🙂

100% your choice my friend.

Man, you do have a lot of questions. Alrighty then... How sharp are the frets? Not very. How many frets are sharp? That would be different from one guitar to the next, so it's not a very helpful question. But I wouldn't call them "sharp" at all. Nothing uncomfortable out of the box, and nothing you couldn't tackle with a $5 sanding block. Is there any bevel on the frets like the Squire Affinity? Yes. Did you play every note and test for fret buzz? Yes. Did you use a fret rocker? Not for this demo, but for the post-setup shootout video I did. Neither the 152 nor the 400 needed fretwork. The 100 did. How low is the action? The action out of the box was slightly high, but not in any way unplayable. After setup I set it at 1.6mm, which is my go-to for Fender spec and it works just fine. Is the nut cut low or too high? No. Do the tuners work well? Yes. Is the fingerboard edge really sharp, or is it slightly rounded? There's a good enough roundover to it. It's comfortable and I use this guitar all the time. Do the frets need polish? No, this one didn't need anything. What about the neck depth and width? w 43mm at the first fret, 52mm at the 12th. Thickness is about 24mm at the first fret (strings on though, because I don't care) tapering to about 25mm at the 12th in about a D shaped profile. Understand two things: first, this is a sub-$250 guitar, and you get a lot of guitar for that price. Second, I only get paid in gear, so crap gear isn't worth my time to review. If the frets were sharp or the nut all fucked up, I would have either mentioned it, or I would have sent it back. As a professional, I use this guitar all the time, having done a fairly light setup (which, let's be honest, if you're paying $250 for a guitar and you don't do a setup you're your own worst enemy), and after a year have had no performance issues with it at all. I MIGHT look at changing some pots and dropping in a Freeway switch, but that's for mods, not fixes. Hope this helps.