The focus of this channel is to discuss things that are interesting to me, such as precious metals, numismatics, watches, collectibles, as well as politics, current events, pop culture and the like, with the hope of connecting with like-minded people. I am a Christian, so I don't shy away from religion and will discuss the theology behind my thinking process without fear or shame. If you enjoy what I do, please subscribe, click the like button on the videos you enjoy, and share the ones that impact you the most.
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Man it is 2024. I can't hear most of what you guys are talking about. I've got my phone volume on high and with all of our technology this is a crap video.
The ideas you presented in this video not only would've made a better sequel, they would've actually enhanced the philosophical debate proposed in the previous films. What drive is there to seek truth and freedom when a comfortable lie provides everything you could ever want? A story that details the power of love overriding traditional ideas of success in life align perfectly with the original trilogy's theme of defying an inherently corrupt system in spite of all apparent rational self-interest (i.e. capitalism, patriarchy, systemic racism, imperialism, etc.).
I saw how you manhandled the watch that caused the Chrono hand to stuck at the 7 min. You need to stop the chrono first by pressing the Start/Stop button before reaching for the restart button at the other end. You’ll jam the mechanism if you press the reset button while it’s running. Hope that helps with the explanations.
In a free market, people can sell whatever they want for whatever they want. If prices are too high then likely they won’t sell, which in turn causes the seller to reduce their prices if they want to move product. We don’t know how much they paid for things or any emotional investment in the items. Sometimes we sell things out of desperation too. If he’s an antique dealer like he claims, then it’s possible he overpaid and is trying to recoup his losses and he can’t ruin the hobby because he’s not a coin dealer. Too many flaws with calling out people and their prices. As long as what he is selling is real and not fake, there are no issues trying to get lots of money for items, that’s the point of selling…
NEVER SELL MORE THAN ONE COIN ON A TRANSACTION, DO NOT HAVE THE SECOND COIN WITH YOU EVERRRRRRRR. THE PRICES ARE GOING TO BE VERY HIGH SO YO DO NOT WANT TO MAKE DOUBLE OR TRIPLE THE SAME MISTAKE BY SELLING TO LOW. kNOW THE COIN VALUE BEFORE YOU AE OUT SELLING IT. VERY CRITICAL, THE COINS RE NOT JUST LOW VALUE NOW DAYS AND THE HAVE PROMISE OF GOING VERY VERY HIGH. SELL ONE COIN AT A TIME EACH TRANSACTION SHOULD BE ONE, YES ONE COIN.
AFTER YOU GET A FEEL FOR THE MARKET OR YOU FING YOUR DEALING WITH A HONES DEALER, MAYBE 2 OR 3 COINS BUT NOT UNTIL YOU KNOW PRICES AND THE PERSON YOUR DELING WITH.
Having owned an Omega Speedmaster Professional (which I absolutely adore), I can say that chronographs are nothing but problems waiting to happen. That's just the nature of the beast I think. I'm sure QC is a factor with these Seagulls, but just because it's a Rolex or Omega doesn't mean reliability won't be an issue. I don't own this watch, but at least I could buy 4 of them for the cost just to SERVICE my Speedmaster.
There is some good, but also a lot of bad information in this video, and the comments section. I own a Red Star 1963. 38MM case, acrylic crystal, 19 Jewel ST1901 (w/the swan neck) that came with 3 bands (NATO, Leather, SS Bracelet) and it only cost me $118.79 w/tax. I purposely chose that model over the 40mm, sapphire, 21 jewel version as it is more accurate to the original model. Why not right? You do not buy a manual wind, column wheel mechanical chronograph that started life in 1942 (as the Venus 175) and treat like its a Casio G-Shock. Buy what YOU like. But if your debating if you should buy a SEA-GULL mechanical chronograph or a Seiko quartz VK chronograph, just buy the Seiko. Mechanical movements have come a long way, but are still extremely tiny, extremely complex, and extremely adverse to shock pieces of machinery. Sea-Gull is the "Official" maker of the ST19 mechanical chronograph movement formally known as the Venus 175 Swiss movement. Other brands such as Seagull, Red Star, Seakoss, Sugess all use the same Sea-Gull ST1901 movement. Saying a "SEA-GULL" ST1901 movement is real and the others are fake is like saying a Seiko 4R35 is a real movement and the Seiko NH35 is a fake. Is a SEA-GULL 1963 watch better then a watch made by Seagull, Red Star, Seakoss, Sugess? Maybe? But, is a SEA-GULL made 1963 watch (Current retail $580 website $664 AliExpress) worth the extra $450+ over the other guys? Probably not. **Also, the official SEA-GULL 1963 has pretty much doubled in price over the last few years, they used to be in $300 range. EASIEST WAY to identify an "Official" SEA-GULL 1963 from the other guys. SEA-GULL watches have two lines of text above the 6 and a solid case back. All the others have one line and an exhibition (see thru) case back. The other brands are not fakes, or knock offs, or rip offs as they all use the same SEA-GULL movement. If you're still here......... China does NOT make "100's of millions of watches per year". That is just absurd. That would be 1 watch for every 78 people, on the planet, every year. Not every watch factory in china uses child and/or slave labor. I'm not so sure about Apple thou? Ha ha, J/K, Apple. Still enjoying that $2000 I-Phone 15 now?
For the price, I consider it a throwaway endeavor. Have one on order ($175)... I'd love it to last for 5-10 years, but realistically, if I get 2 years out of it--for the money--I'll be happy.
6:00 Words of wisdom... NOBODY CARES ABOUT YOUR COIN COLLECTION- ITS VALUE -WHAT YOU HAVE- RARE PIECES -AND WHAT IT'S WORTH. NOBODY. EXCEPT OTHER COIN NERDS
@@LenHere sorry if this is a little bit of a beginner question but at far as date, there is key date, semi key date, and better date. Would you stack all three or just key and semi key? And as far as condition, what condition would you consider to draw the line? Is Is just anything above uncirculated that you focus on or is it specific to each year and coin?
He's overpricing his coins. That's not a scam. He can charge what he likes. If you don't trust his sales talk, go and buy somewhere else. Caveat emptor!
Only a couple of key dates i want lol 1.) 1909 S indian cent in nice bu red 2.) 1921 d or s walking liberty (dont matter the condition lol) 3.) and just a nice ms66 or higher with fullsteps 1950-D Jefferson nickel 🙂
