A base filosófica woke é a mesma base filosófica revolucionária de esquerda. É humanista, no pior sentido. É humanista pagã. O homem como o corretor da existência confrontando até mesmo Deus. Se o indivíduo acha que o direito individual da mulher justifica o aborto...foda-se. Se a vingança e o rancor dar a alguns negros dignidade. Foda-se! Brancos ,mesmo inocentes, pagarão. O direito ao prazer é sagrado, então ,viva o prazer sexual de todas as formas e dane-se até mesmo Deus. Wokes são assim.
As a previous Yamaha player, on school kits mostly, the UT heads really need to be swapped out for better heads, as I know it would improve the sound greatly! Also, why are the mounted toms in reverse on all of the kits displayed? Was this a personal preferance? Just wonderin". Thanks guys!
Hey mate, yes you are correct the UT are pretty poor heads, all drums come alive when they have quality heads on them. As far as reverse toms, a lot of people do it. Not to copy but because they prefer a larger Tom in front of their snare and use the small Tom to the right, more percussively. In my early days I played 1 up 2down; and three up, and a FT either side. But after 30 years I play all my toms chromatically in reverse, with exception of the floor toms, one each side… my smaller toms now are all reversed from the right to the left: 10, 12, 13 and then 14 on the left of my hi hat above my left hand floor Tom. It’s the oddest thing, but I’m hearing fills and groves more in those terms now, likely more orchestral.
@KillerDrumsTV thanks for responding to my comments! The first drummer I saw with the reverse high toms was Kenny Arnoff, and after your description of why it makes sense! Cheers!
Use quality headphones mate (AirPods or iPhones). The mics are all basically room mics as it’s a John Glyn’s setup, so it sounds exactly as they sound acoustically; pro processing or production.
Neil Peart's famous kit from Permanent Waves and Moving Pictures was a Birch Tama Superstar kit. Back in those days the drum companies didn't tell us birch wasn't a preferred wood so we just assumed we liked the sound. Times are much better now that we understand that we should only buy birch (or luan mahogany) if we can't afford much better sounding maple , except of course when there is a special anniversary or President edition then we know by the price they are much better despite the wood.
Actually I do prefer euro birch to maple in most drums and can hear the difference acoustically or more to the point my ears prick up when it’s birch as I like it more.
Well that was a waste of my time watching this video. Some advanced tune your tom drums higher. Stop trying to tune a small drum too low. It just sounds horrible. A small drum is not going to get a nice low sound ,there are naturally going to have a higher note and fundamental pitch. It’s not worth buying an expensive drum and not tuning them up high enough to allow the heads and shell to vibrate and sustain properly. A proper good sound drum is tuned higher and more tension on the heads than you think. I can’t stand detuned drums that have heads sounding wobbly warpy or buzzy because the heads are not tight enough on the shell and the shell can’t vibrate at its natural tones.
Ha ha… much like reading your comment I guess. I’m sorry if you think you can only tune a small Tom high and a low Tom low, this is not true at all. A jazz 18” bass drum is generally tuned super high, compared to an 18” rock floor purse. Equally a snare can be tuned super high and super low. But by your complaint, a tympani for example should only be tuned to one note, its fundamental most resonate pitch. Technically higher pitches resonate faster and shorter anyways, so a “most resonate” pitch in a small tom won’t be as resonate as the most resonate note in a larger Tom. That produces a problem for your theory. The truth of the matter whether you know it or not, is that drums operate as a set. Furthermore, a head diameter places a drum in a range of pitches, but that drum’s tension can lift or lower the pitch quite a range, with many sounding great. Equally a super thin shell (and also some timbers) can lower the pitch of a drum well below its range, and equally a thick shell, or a shell with re-rings and harder timber will raise it’s pitch. The reality is that any drum has several resonate pitches, not just one; and necessarily a higher pitch. Food for thought. Thanks for you criticism. Happy tuning.
@@KillerDrumsTV you’re comment doesn’t really compare apples to apples. A 18” drum can get low frequencies /sound but it’ll never reach low enough like 22” 24” etc… even if the shell was thin I down to drop the pitch down. Now if you look at a piano scale the timpani drum is at the far low end of the scale and no matter what you’ll never tune it to the high note of the other end of the scale because the design and large capacity the of the timpani shell is not design to and is beyond it’s capabilities. It’s very poor example you’re trying to point. The only thing that you mention that makes any kind of sense is a thick shell vs. a thinner shell but that’s only part of it. You forgot that the depth of the drum affects the pitch and as well as a drum having smaller diameter like a 13” vs 14” diameter can changed a note higher too. Then you didn’t mention how type of wood can affect the tone of the drum. Not a very good argumentative point from you. My comment still stands as is. Example you can’t get a 8” diameter drum to sound like a12”/13”/14” drum even if you increase the depth of the drum cause now the drum will sound more like “octabon” drums and you’re not gonna get a 13” drum to sound low like a 16” floor tom ,so just stop doing it that just sounds horrible. I’ve got 40 + yrs playing drums so it’s not an opinion it’s an observation of real application.
Sure it does. As a drum maker I can make a 20x8 sound deeper than a 24x20. I have bass drums here from 30” down to 16”, in a variety of depths and the bass drum that is the lowest pitch by far (not because of the heads) is one of my custom 20” x 8”bass drums. You see there are factors at play here that few even have realised, because most drum makers just assemble and make drums designed for profit. Few make drums for sound. Given that, generally you are listening to only the same limited examples of drum made for profit and not instruments, so I can’t expect you to know of other possibilities even with 100 years experience playing drums. I make drum prototypes to test all these notions, so I can manipulate these “fixed ideas” and know how to master their influence. Here’s one experiment you can try yourself at home to raise many points. 1.Get a length of clear 10mm (approx) pvc tubing and squish it into your floor Tom hole air hole. Make sure it tight. 2. Now place the tubing in your mouth. 3. start to play, keep playing, 4. blow as hard as you can and for as long as you can; tell me what happens to the pitch of your drum and why that’s happening. Now ponder how can a drum maker (not assembler) remove that pitch impact from a shell to lower an 8” Tom to sound like a 12” Tom? Maybe watch a few acoustic violin and guitar making videos as they often are showing you exactly that. Remember we are not talking about the feel of a drum as in the difference between playing an 8” Tom to a 16 or 18” Tom, but pitch shifting with in the bounds of a drum heads range. Also, I have not forgotten about the depth of a drum in relation to pitch, depth does not exclusively lower pitch as my 20 x8 is lower in pitch than my 20 x 18, but do you know why? We all have 40+ years experience these days, and observations galore, but many with little understanding about physics and the elements. but I think you may just like tuning drums your way and being rigid is ok if everyone one else likes that too, but on this video you appear to be one in 50,000 that don’t like the sound of the tuning. That likely suggests something worth pondering before you reply. But if you reply please put up some actual audio examples of what you do and don’t like and I’m happy to consider a challenge that make end up in a video for others to compare and comment on. Have a great day.
Stfu tune your stagg kit the way you want. Some like low dead drums, it’s preference. Gadd often played his top notch kit very low and muffled and you can’t touch his turds.
Can I get a contact number please if that's alright I'm in Darwin and I have an old brady snare that has had a drop and not sure if can be fixed cheers Doug
A&F get a lot of criticism over price, but if it’s out of a person’s price range what’s the complaint? I’m sure most people think luxury cars are overpriced, and/or are outside most people’s budget, but still luxury brands thrive. They just have a niche customer base that support them and A&F are no different, accept that A&F’s retails are based on cost of sales (remebr it’s made in America) plus fair profit and you have to support that. I love A&F drums personally, they have a sound that really like. But I don’t own any atm, but will be saving. Thanks for your comment.
Yeah, it’s a good point. I’m working on a set of teaching videos that are more slick, but you have to pay for the info there. These are free, But I try to make these real and genuine as possible, with diy tools, done in ways that a novice could try with a decent level of success. I have all the high end gear but that’s no fun if you want to have a go and can’t because you don’t have the expert gear to make it so.
Hey mate, a long time ago in Bethlehem, I did an A/B of three methods of wrapping a drum, focused on the seeing if there was a reduction, increase or neutral affect from the method on sustain, tone, and anything else. Tape of any kind had the greatest negative impact as it effectively created an air cavity between the shell and the wrap, much like how it is used in studio walls for sound deadening. The best was a thin film glue film over the entire shell with compression. That said the method I use is contact spray glue on the shell and the wrap. Wait 5 minutes and then bring together and they are glued on contact. In essence I can wrap a drum faster this way than in using tape and you almost can’t tell any tonal difference (in resonance not pitch) between an unwrapped shell of the same thickness and a wrapped shell. There is nothing wrong with tape, but it’s worth noting that wrapped YAMAHA recording custom drums are the most difficult to remove their wraps because of the full contact and type of glue used for drum wraps so to not take away from the shells resonance. Thanks for your comment.
yes I pondered using 3M super 77 all under it all and the 4611 at just the overlap . Looks like that is the winner despite so many that said it would creep in the heat of car in the summer. Bethlehem had a great music store in the 80s called Kempher Music. Bought many Paiste there.
If you’re a little ways away, hang in for my wrapping video. I’ve seen all the ridiculous was people advise how to wrap a drum, but if they were cabinetmakers there is really only one method that is professional; and I’ve reduced that to a diy method with 100% success. Subscribe and it will let you know when it’s up.
@@KillerDrumsTV yes still a few days away from heading into the unknown lol. I refrained from super 77 as it now contains acetone. I went for a high heat polymat 797x spray adhesive good for pvc to wood at 220 degree flash point. Delmar solid color wrap being Pvc wrap. Just watched part 3 again for the 10th time going to sand bearing edges again as I used only 120 grit .... going to rub together as you suggest here to up closer to 200 grit
I am working a new raw shell...I know you said penetrol on bearing edges here as well as interior on other videos. How about the exterior with penetrol ? I know that leaves either wrapping or using oil based finishes....I plan to wrap with delmar using only tape on an 8" premier tom . The other toms are lacquer finished....
Penetrol oil dries and can be treated as a primer, meaning you can definitely seal the outer of the shell too. I have a kit here I made back at the millennium (2000) and it’s 100% penetrol inside, outside, edges and also drill holes. It looks almost as good as day one. The byline on the Penetrol can is something like “makes paint stick to anything”. It’s my go to.
Yeah I understand, but a snare stand sucks the tone out of your Tom unless you’re using a snare stand Tom resonance system of sorts or tuning the drum to a resonate pitch. The Tama HTS108W Single Tom Stand is our preferred way.
These days it’s really hard to make a kit that sounds crap. Of all the variables that negatively impact on a drums sound, I think these days, a bad sound is more likely the drummer, their tuning, or their choice of drumsticks even, rather than a brand of drums.
Hey Dylan, yeah it’s a 500w terror bass, it’s so good and was too loud for the room with quad 10’s on top of a 15. Have a Vase head and 6/10 cab there now. Still just as loud but a little less all encompassing, we CAN’T have the bass player louder than the drummer now can we.
Hey mate, a great question. The purpose of my video was to see if I can use the exact reinforcement ring that Pearl installed in the exact place, which we did. Normally, I would cut a reinforcement ring out of the shell offcut, or another shell off cut. But this was more an experiment on the fly to try a few things done differently.
I love these drums.. I sold a DW collectors kit and replaced it with e 5 piece legend series. 8x7 10x7 12x8 14x14 & 20x16.. It's a thing of beauty in looks and sound. I am now 100% BDC.. These set the standard
Quality heads are 70% of the sound and everything else just makes them better or worse, more sustained or more choked. The yammys were a lot of fun. Keen to get some more on the show.
This was a fantastic comparison! What I liked the most about it was that you didn’t do a lot of processing, which made it easier to distinguish the tone of each series. Well done!
That kit sounds better than 99% of all the new,used,old and electronic sets in the entire world today,wow!...the drummer has a huge influence on the sound,but no kit can look and sound as wonderful as that, except THAT bloody drumset,nice and thanks
Nicko McBrain actually left SONOR for british made classic PREMIER drums,then suddenly, on a video seen here on you tube,he is sitting behind a HUGE BRITISH drum COMPANY monster set-up.paiste cymbals of all sizes a nd colors everywhere-and the smile on his face is bigger than his new drumkit!....then he gets up, and beats the bloody hell mout of them,with a "where eagles dare", opening drum fill tutorial,fawkm yeah!......The drums shown here are so nice sounding,and beautiful, but here in west coast of U.S.A.-they fetch a hefty price tag,and i have only seen aluminum shelled snares for sale,which are utterly beyond what anyone could ever expect a 14inch beer can to sing like,perfect and dry,with a crack thatt scares .30-06rifles!
There expensive in the u.s.a but hey,now days everything is.are economy sucks!!!! Praying for better days ahead. I will own a set of these one day.(Founders reserve) I'll take them over anything on the marketplace.!!!!
Those are some seriously nice,well made,and really expensive drums,could you someday do a demo,or video for Australian drum builders CHAOS DRUMS?interseted in the RELIC line and maple snares, not alot of examples in the united states of these products.
I’d say Taiwan, but a tama guy may be able to confirm. These days I’m not so concerned with where drums are made but how they are made and what the quality of the materials are used to make them. MIT 2020 and beyond is not the same as MIT decades ago.
Hey mate, I use two products. 1. Penetrol oil, which is the best thing for this, also great for chrome as well. www.ppgpaints.com/products/specialty/flood-penetrol-oil-based-paint-additive 2. High grade Paraffin wax: first rubbed on, then using a small cotton piece of cloth rubbing back and forth and around the bearing edge to heat up the wax and coat the edge. This alone, causes the heads to float when played and increases the perception of sustain, because it removes traction of the head on the bearing edge. As such paraffin wax alone improve your drums tone. A great bearing edge brings the best out of your shells and heads. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraffin_wax Hope this helps. Kind regards Tony
one of his videos said it was penetrol ... Apparently it is a wood sealer waterproofing element not just an additive to oil paint . Wonder if there is a special formula or if it is only one type product. Also was interested in his statement about Premier nailing in there beechwood rings instead of glueing also if that were the case were the 45 degree edges already filed as well ? Perhaps they were one piece perfectly fitted no need to bang them into place.
@@KillerDrumsTV I got to thinking that penetrol might be good on the whole inner shell .... this one particular Premier is only 1/8" thick while all the others are 1/4" thick hence the beech re ring add ons . Also considering adding a double sided 3M tape to beef up the fundamental tone too match the other thicker shells. should it be applied to the whole inner shell or just the rings
Yes! I use Penetrol on inside, outside (timber shells) and also it is a metal sealer. People think that metal is non porous, but it is porous and so penetrol seals and protects metal too. I have vintage drums that I penetrol decades ago, and still look great. You can built up coats after dry and use it as a shell finish. It’s seriously the best product around.
I have been very interested in this one, really felt is a cool design, but other reviewers say is cheaply made and not good like other Ludwig kits... Now I am confused.. is this made in Asia or the USA? Did they make this a cheaper-made kit than other Ludwig kits? It was 2300 Euros here in Sweden and now they have one for me at 1700 euro.. Shall I go with this one or am I wasting my money and am I better off to look into other kits in this price range? please advice? I used to play drums from 7-19 and we had a fun band playing funk, rock and blues. But 30 years later I wanna take up my drumming happiness again and my old best friend, the guitarist of our band wrote to me and asked if I still play and wanna go on tour in the Alps... But what kit shall I re-set myself with now in 2024? there are so many out there today, I am also thinking of getting the Evans Sensory Hybrid System and adding to an acoustic kit to mix up the sounds with each other... Please advise some interesting kits to look into! thanks :)
Hey mate, many options are just that. I own this kit and love playing it. I’ve also owned or played nearly every production kit out there. These shells are great, the cherry actually impacts the tone, sound and feel. It’s brighter than maple, as articulate as birch, but has a warmth like mahogany that comes after the initial hit. The lug chrome work is not as good as their higher end kits, and their first edition bass drum legs I didt like; but I love playing this kit and I have every option to select from. So except for the chrome work and bd legs, at this price point there’s not much more that compares considering the shell combination that you get. But let me do a quick sweep in 2024 and see what’s good value for money and best performance. I’ll get back to you. Cheers tony
Thanks, seems like my reply got lost? Yes, please let me know what you happen to know might be better. I got a deal this weekend on the Neo Sonic Black Digital Oyster for 1700 euros instead of 2300 euros... But as I wanted to connect the Evans Sensory Hybrid System a lot of stores told me to just get the cheapest kit I could find and that it would not matter at all as the Evans electronic triggers would not care about the quality of the drums.. But I heard drummers using the Evans hybrid system saying that it does matter a lot how well-tuned the drums are and how they resonate with the Evans sensory Hybrid System... So, really not sure what drums to choose right now... Evans told me over Instagram that what matters most as they see it is to have wide enough drums so that all the 10 zones per drum head will be easy to hit accurately as some zones are pretty small, and a wider drum will make it easier for the drummer to hit them with good accuracy when playing quickly... Have you tested the Evans Sensory Hybrid System on any drumkit? what is your take on this? thanks for getting back! @@KillerDrumsTV
Hey mate, all examples are mixed as genuinely as possible with minimal eq/compression (if at all) and no effects. So what you hear is what they sound like out of the box, no tricks. But thanks for the complement.
Yes! Correct. Formica laminate, which is far more sonic than plastic wrap or nitro wrap, which is dead. Formica is highly compressed paper impregnated with phenolic resin.
