I am one man on one acre in Pennsylvania that loves Jesus, my family, and my country. Follow along with the randomness that is my life from tree felling and firewood, to chainsaws, to maple syrup, to firearms, to chickens.
Give a Safariland ALS with the prep for a 1911 with a X300 weapon light a try. It’s a retention holster, but it should do the job. It did on one I used several years back. Hopefully this is useful to you.
Awesome. On the 3rd shot of the first session when she was prone, the buttsock slipped below her shoulder and almost scoped her eye. If she shoots prone, have a sandbag Under the gun.
The bigger dogs are also the same as OEM, just a matter of preference. I have a Husqvarna 372XP x torq that came with the large ones and I have a Farmertec, both with the larger dogs. I run 28 inch bars and for bucking up big logs nothing is better than the large ones. My farmertec also came with the small set.
Excited for ya man. Don’t know where yall are or what the date of capture was but in central ky the flow is almost over You may need to feed them to draw alot of that out for you. Don’t let them starve just in the name of natural beekeeping
I'm a Stihl fan pretty much, so I don't know much about Husky saws. But that clone seems to be running pretty good and I like the way you a changing out any parts that are for sure going to be an issue with OEM parts. I haven't looked up the CCs of that saw but it seems to run alot like the Stihl ms361 I use to have and I loved that saw. It was 60 CC range of saw. I put a 25inch bar on mine and I loved the skip tooth chain on it. I think it was better at clearing chips or noodles and cause less drag when cutting through big wood. The one the one thing I would mention is that the chain will never be as sharp as it is brand new and sharpening an unused chain is not going likely to ever make a new unused chain cut better. I would use the new chain as is till it dulled a bit before sharpening it to your preferences if I were you in the future. Great video. I really like your positioning of the camera and your editing. Great job. 😎👍
Thank you for watching and the comment! So Husqvarna makes it simple: a 372 is a 72cc saw. Holzfforma also makes Stihl clones too if you need another saw in your life…who doesn’t?
@@theprofessionalamerican lol I just bought the G111 clone of the Stihl ms200t a top handle saw a bit ago and I'm waiting for it to be delivered later this month. I use to have that Stihl saw and loved it. But im just buying this clone because I enjoy cutting with the Stihl Ms200t, but the OEM saw is just too expensive even used. Besides I have no need for a chainsaw these days, so even if I had the money, paying that high price for a used OEM saw doesn't make sense to do. Lol
West Coast dogs..... I run them but run 24 inch bar ....I have the pro farmtec 372 with 118 tanks no issues yet.....I muffler modded mine in house I have a fab shop so tig welding larger tip in was easy..... Cool video..I enjoy it.
one tip i would give you while working on or around pavement/cement, when setting the saw down while running, it really takes a toll on the bottom of the saw at idle on hard surfaces, soo much so it will even wear into the tank on some saws over the years!
I dunno, that 55 doesnt seem like its running right. My 55 is old and beat up, but does not struggle like that one does. Wondering exactly what piston/ cylinder that kid used? I'm guessing it wasnt OEM. I'd take the 55 any day, simply because injection molded plastic crank cases give me hives.
I found a Para 'PDA' yesterday for $400. It's got a 3" barrel and comes with the hard case and an extra mag. From what I can gather, the PDA is pretty much an earlier version of the LDA. While I usually do my research before buying an unfamiliar gun, I didn't have the time and didn't want to lose the opportunity in case someone else came in after me and bought it. I'm unsure how reliable these are, where I can buy parts (if it all) and how many parts are interchangeable with the standard 1911. *ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!*
Boy they sure roasted the galvanized trash can! Most of the keyboard warriors have no idea what it’s like to be cold because they’re living in moms basement with warm heat pipes around. They have no problem criticizing others who are doing a lot with very little. I believe the only difference for you is the need to trim the amount of wood used and the output. Sticking with the formula for the ratios you said 1,2,4,6 so it really depends on how small or large you are willing to cut the wood. If you wanted to cut the wood to 3” split wood x 1 foot your looking at a 1 foot opening and a two foot drop which would eliminate the need to chop up the wood to very small pieces. The burn tunnel would be 4x2 or eight feet? Then there’s no pre-made bell big enough to cover the distance of 12 feet 6x2 would you gain any benefit from making the stove larger or is there a method of understanding what the output will be if the design is in keeping with the parameters? Once you achieve the temperature requirements for efficiency in burning all the gasses made by burning wood is there something that can predict your performance?
The 55 is a magnesium case saw. Your 455 is a clam shell. Somebody else pointed it out. The 55 will run for ever and the 455 is a run till done and pitch. Watch the tinman and tune your carbs. He's a good friend of bucking.
Great video, glad to see the comparison as well! *side note - Only thing I don't get is when people crank a chainsaw up they immediately rev it up. If the saw is running right and tuned correctly it should idle no problem, you shouldn't have to rev it to keep it going. Second, with any engine, they should be allowed a short time to gradually heat up not instantly go from cold to hot.
I agree and I do tend to let them idle for a bit before using them. This video has some editing for time so that’s not really shown and it was when I was first really getting into saws. If I made that video today, a few things would be different. Sadly, both saws have been sold.
Just picked one of these (blue) with smoked top end for 40.00. Super clean nearly new. Just put hyway 52mm popup top end to it. Visually looked it over for obvious vacuum leaks, yamabond base gasket, installed top end, assembled remainder of saw. Checked jet settings BOOM! high side about 1/8 turn, reset both jets to 1 1/4 as a starti g point. I let the base gasket set up a couple hours, threw bnc on it, gassed/ oiled up, pulled it and it runs AWSOME!! I got strait to some small wood, then right to noodling burying a 24" rig. It was a little doggy i thought a d just about the end of the first tank it woke up!! I reset carb, fattened up H side a touch, n ran another tank thru it. Gonna put couple more tanks thru it as is, muffler mod it, retune n should b a good saw. Its not my 7900 dolmar by any stretch, but with only 2 ta ks thru it it appears noticeably stronger than yours,, but you sound REALLY rich on top also. Have fun..
You've already been blasted for the zinc/galvanizing, so I'll skip that. What I would say is that in my experience, for good combustion and draft, you want a 1:3 or even 1:4 ratio between horizontal and vertical of your J-tube. I cannot stress the importance of the horizontal part of the tube, it is the combustion chamber. It depends on draft speed, of course, but you need a long enough horizontal section to break down the fuel and burn the gasses that result. If set up properly, the barrel should see no unburned hydrocarbons (smoke). I think yours is just a tad too short. This will result in the barrell sooting up (potential creasote fire). Otherwise, great job
