@@gustavoguzman1314 The US spec is wired differently cause you guys use the brake light as indicators. There are some owners in the US running my mod but not too sure how they overcame the indicator issue. In the U.K. we use a separate circuit for the indicators which flash orange not red

It was so long ago I did this I can’t remember I’m afraid. Since I did these clocks the newer 3D colour dials became available and they are basically a direct swap (coding is needed still obviously but no need for making a Frankenstein unit like I had to) Talk to whoever is going to do the coding for you as most of the people who can code clocks properly will have a supply of dials available for your car

@@MateyGuv Is the color mfd cluster no longer available??!!!

These are the standard rear lenses for a MK5 Golf, the Valeos are a very different unit. I wanted to keep the standard ones but have the quad circles so started to work out this modification. The Valeos look like they were made for the inner units being illuminated because they have the spacing and holders moulded into them as standard. I guess they decided against it just before launching them. The Valeos have the inner circles in clear plastic instead of the standard being either red or dark cherry. Part of the spec of the Edition 30 and R32 were the dark cherry (instead of red) rear lenses and I wanted to keep them looking standard

If you do mean the headlights Valeo did do a Xenon look headlight for the MK5 Golf as a retro fit kit but the ones on my car were OEM Xenon’s - they are identical in appearance though

@@MateyGuv I want to do the skyline mod too, but I'm afraid. I have the original Valeo standard rear light. I heard a rumor that the lens of the valeos does not come off and it breaks, that's right. Hella's lens comes out simple. i have this hurdle in front of me to mod skyline

@@MateyGuv I'm writing from the translation, it doesn't translate very accurately :) . Do you think I should do this mod? In my country, the taillights are expensive and I don't want to buy a new one, how can I remove the lens without breaking it?

@@MateyGuv I'm waiting for an answer from you, I will start doing accordingly

You need to take it easy and kinda feel the plastic so you don’t force it too much. The lens will shatter really easily if you give it too much pressure. On my channel I have another way to do this mod that doesn’t need to open the lens up this way and is a lot safer. Have a look through my videos or there is a link to it in these comments. I hope you try again because once you have opened them up it’s really easy and looks great on the car but do the “full moon” mod on the outer lights for the full effect

It was so long ago I did it I can’t remember. I’m fairly sure I say somewhere in the video or one of the other ones on my channel about the rear light conversation. If you can’t find where I say what I used you could measure the size from the outside of the lens. Just take a measurement in the middle of the circle ⭕️ and that will give you a size that’ll fit. That’s how I measured it anyway - good luck 👍

Hello mate, thanks for the kind words. When I got the wingback front seats I had them along with the rears (deleted the middle seat), armrest and door cards retrimmed. The door cards had Bentley Nappa charcoal leather with red stitching to match the rest of the interior retrim. I added Edition 35 seatbelts as well because they are black with red stripes along each edge. If you have a look at my about section you’ll see a link to the cars build where there is loads of info on the seats and more/better pics 👍

Hello pal, there is a plug on the bottom of it that you can undo to drain it when needed

@@MateyGuv been looking at cans lately and honestly I think forge could have done better. Wiper neck relocate is great.

@@daveperryLXXVII I agree with you tbf. Given the choice now I think I’d like to get a universal APR one and make it fit. The forge one I had was ok for the time and I got it second hand for a steal so made sense but wouldn’t buy one new

@@daveperryLXXVII Here’s a link to the APR universal catch can www.goapr.co.uk/products/catch_can_universal.html

@@MateyGuv I been eyeing out the apr one out for the last week lol. I have the apr stage 1 tune. Might as well get the can too lol

Hello pal, I got loads more info on my channel about how I did this and also in the build blog on the link in my bio. If you need more help message me on here and I’ll try my best to help out 👍

Hello, I’m not sure how to answer that question. It doesn’t make sense to me, could you re-phrase it and I will do my best to help 👍

@@MateyGuv I think he met if the paneles with numbers (MPH and RPM) and the needles will work if they are swsaped from an Mk6 R into a Mk5 gauge cluster. Which asco interest me!

I’ll say yes but to be honest I’m not 💯. I know the gauges themselves can be coded (with the proper kit) to be calibrated for different dial faces. E.G if the original dials went Upto 180mph and you find the 200mph faces it can be coded to still show the correct figures so I imagine going from kph to mph would also be possible. I had to get a specialist in to code the dials properly cause you can’t do it via vagcom or similar things

Sorry, just re read that…yes defo! My clocks were MK6 colour backs with Mk5 facia trim

@@anfernyaw2645 👍

Yes….if you can find a colour one it will fit. I just found some MK6 colour clusters first so had to use that backing and the scirocco front to fit my MK5. If you do the same as me make sure you get the scirocco colour front as the window is slightly wider for the colour displays so if wrong you will blank out some info. You’ll still need it coded by someone with all the right kit though. Make sure the person you find to do it can also code the immobiliser in cause most will deactivate it cause it needs special kit to do. If the immobiliser is bypassed you obviously won’t have that security but could also void your insurance too if it was ever stolen then recovered

@@MateyGuv thanks mate what’s the difference between colour front and the other one ?

What’s the “non colour” front?

@@user-wl3lm2un5e See above ⬆️

@@user-wl3lm2un5e It’s the front facia from clocks that don’t have a colour MFD. So if the facial comes from the White MFD or the Red MFD

Tbf this video was made almost 8 years ago. The new stuff has DAB as standard

It's a struggle to find a DAB upgrade. Puts me off buying a car without it.

Hyundai dealer wants £40 to upgrade satnav........ what a joke

MK6 VW Golf R Colour MFD and MK3 VW Sirocco

@@MateyGuv thank you brother:) i need one for my mk5, its fire

@@bertelsenmedia2nd it made such a difference to the feel of the car, felt really modern. I had the MK6 GTi steering wheel as well and it was a great combo 😎

@@MateyGuv u also have a mk5?

@@bertelsenmedia2nd I only had a MK5

These dials are a hybrid of a new shape Scirocco front and MK6 Golf R colour MFD back. Here is how I made them.... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kFC5JviTPI8.html

Hello pal, I don’t mod for people but if you search Facebook you will find a guy that is doing it. The wiring for US cars of different as it uses the outer red as the indicator

Yea need and want euro spec have to have lol its a must

@@babybearjoe it’s funny because us Europeans want the US spec and Americans Want the European 😂😂😂😂

It’s just the standard edition 30 rear bumper but I painted the middle bit matte black

@@MateyGuv oh wow its looks great

@@anotherreason thanks pal. I used plastidip so if it didn’t work out nice I could have pulled it off easily. I kept it though cause I really liked it

Hello pal, without supplying and fitting them myself I don’t know what your problem could be. Each person seems to do the wiring slightly different depending on their preferences so best to go to the person you got the modded inners from for help

Sorry for late reply! There is no need to do this method now as it is possible to use the latest “3D” MFD instruments found on the Scirocco. If memory serves right the scirocco 3D instruments are a direct fit but will need coding. I don’t have the knowledge or equipment do code them so you’d need to find someone who knows what they are doing. Basically if they say it’s not possible they probably shouldn’t be let loose on your motor 😱😂😂 Search google for “Doc Caddy 2K” if you are in the U.K. as he is, imho, the best in the U.K. and can usually supply everything you need.

@@MateyGuv Thank for the reply and information mate! Do you no what years I should lookout for mate

@@enhanceduk4642 not sure on model years but any of the 3D colour MFD clusters will work but not the virtual cockpit. Find yourself a good VAG coder and they will be able to help source one and code it all up. Make sure the person you choose to do the coding is able to still have the immobiliser working. There is a bodge coding option that kinda works but you don’t quite have all the right warning lights working (ie handbrake warning light comes on if you put dogs on and stuff like that) If the person can code the immobiliser to work it’s a very good sign that they have the better equipment and everything will work as it should. Worth noting that any upgrade to the MK5 instruments will de activate the options menu on the MFD (like changing the delay on coming home lights and stuff like that) it’s cause the MK5 uses a very different electronics system to the MK6 and above platforms. You can still change all these features through the stereo or Vagcom - just not through the MFD

Long gone now mate 😢

Doc. FunkBlack if you’re just connecting the regular and brake light together you are shorting the circuit. I try to explain what’s needing to happen in this video. You gotta bypass the inner part of the circle’s circuit and run it to a suitable place to put some bulbs so the car doesn’t think a bulb has blown then wire the outer part of the circle to the inner so that both illuminate when the side lights and/or brakes are applied. Hope that makes sense, if not watch the video again and try to follow it with your bulb holder in front of you cause it’s easier to work it out then you’ve got it in front of you 👍

Trelly Productions thanks for watching and commentating. I’m not sure what you mean?

@@MateyGuv it's like the golf passat

Trelly Productions yeah kind of, the Passat used LED’s like the MK5 Golf Valeo read light kit does

@@MateyGuv (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N4juGC6Rx_0.html) you see how they move in circles? They are for the Volkswagen Passat, but can they fit on the golf mk5?

Trelly Productions that’s really cool. The passats have separate LED’s in the lens where as the golf (standard) uses a filament bulb, when I did this I used a standard LED ring due to cost but if you have wallets deep enough anything is possible. I’m not sure if the optional Valeo lenses have the same led pattern as the passats but they look close enough so may be worth having a go if you have the Valeo read lights

Damien Ward once you got the parts and some one who knows how to code them and the immobiliser in its a straightforward swap. The newer 3D colour dash’s will work too - I had one ready to replace this one but ended up selling the car before I was able to have it coded in. It makes such a difference to the feel of the car, really brings it upto date from the old red FIS 👍

@@MateyGuv really enjoyed your Forum thread on your mighty ED30 build. I hope all is well with you now. Thanks so much for the inspiration. Will look for the parts for the colour MFD dials. Also great to know they will will work fine with my Polar fis screen. All the best.

Damien Ward thanks pal, your kind words really mean a lot 😊 I miss my ED everyday 😢 If you do what I did in my video where I swap the fronts over with the colour rear cluster make sure you have the correct face. If the face is from a red/white MFD they are a couple of mm too small so it cuts the edges of the colour screen from view. It’s one of those things that you can live with but it drove me crazy! To make the swap even more of a pain you need to find the correct front part (the clear plastic that you look through and it’s surround. If you struggle get in touch cause I think Iv got a spare somewhere in the depths of my garage 👍

@@MateyGuv thank you so much for that comprehensive answer and tips. :-) They are such wonderful machines. I am a bit ocd with my car, which I completely appreciated you were too, with your beautiful example. I loved your attention to detail. Every step I make with my GTI is carefully planned. lol. Again thank you, you are a true gent.

Damien Ward cheers buddy, youv made me remember all the fun and sense of achievement that car gave me. Happy time’s 😊. If I can be any help to you and your build please message me 👍

paddeemusio I’m fairly sure it will physically fit but best to check with your coder that they can code and fit ok 👍

Nice thanks also the adapter you have for the plug in the back do you have a part number for it?

paddeemusio I can’t remember where I got it from to be honest - was years ago now. It was a polish company, do a google search for mk6 dials in mk 5 golf cable and I’m sure it’ll come up. Your probably better off asking your coder as they should be able to make one up or give you better advice about the right cable to get for the dials you have. Sorry I can’t be much more help pal

Don’t worry about it I’ve found a few that look right but it says for b6 Passat

paddeemusio hello pal, I couldn’t code the clocks on VAGCOM as it needs a specialist tool to read and code the clock. You’ll need to find a specialist near you that can do it - make sure they can code the immobiliser too! I did get the colour 3D scirocco clocks in the end but didn’t do a video of them and sold the car a long time ago now

Jigsjigz I wish that stuff worked! The glue only has about half a mm to bond so even JB Weld fails fairly quickly. The lens unit is under tension on the cut line going through the back of the lens when installed back onto the car and with the vibrations of day to day driving a stronger mechanical solution is needed to stop the two lens half’s from splitting over time

@@MateyGuv really? ive seen amazing things with jb holding strong after years, i did my polo back in 2008 (broken brackets on the headlights, worked a charm. but yeah awesome mod, i send this link to a mate as he wants to do his golf mk5 up a bit.

Jigsjigz Jigsjigz yeah, I tried basically everything and it comes down to the available plastic to stick is so thin even JB Weld failed after a few weeks. When the lens goes back in the car (if you choose to use my method where I open the rear of the lens up) the cut line is under constant stress - I try to describe it some where in this video. This tension with the vibrations of daily driving (for me on not the best maintained roads) makes any glues fail fairly quickly. I even tried professional plastic welding and even that failed! Have to seal them up with a mechanical bond - I keep meaning to do an full update video but can’t find the time at the moment. Thanks for watching and sharing my vids pal, it is appreciated 👍

@@MateyGuv yeah i saw the rest of your videos! awesome stuff man.

RedSun hello pal, like I said in the video I don’t have a clue about it coding of the clocks and left that to docCaddy2k. You need specialist equipment as well as vagcom to make it all work together

Hello mate, I think the saw I used is called a Japanese saw. Get the thinnest one you can find so that you remove as little as possible plastic to cut the backs off the lens. Tbf no glue I used did what I wanted it to, the plastic that needs gluing is so thin glue doesn’t really have enough meat to do it’s job. I ended up plastic welding the two parts back together - there’s another video on my channel or it’s part of one of the videos where I go through what I did 👍

MateyGuv Thank you very much for info mate! 👍 can i use anything else beside plastic welding? as i dont have that tools :/.

1MAC1 all the glues I tried just weren’t good enough as the plastic area is so think it can’t really get a good area to bond onto. Try the strongest glue you can get hold of but over time the lens will pop out around the cut line. You could do the mod with my original method (one of the early vids on my channel) where I open them up from the front but I wasn’t happy with the effect around the outside of the lens once glued back together. That method left a crackle effect where I separated the two parts and it drove me mad. That’s why I kept going and worked out this way of opening them up from the back

paddeemusio I honestly can’t remember pal, it was a long time ago I did this. You can now get the 3D colour Fis dials to work on the mk5 and getting those dials is loads easier as all Mk3.5 scirocco has these dials and the fit. You just need someone with the right equipment to hack into the dials to make them work. It’s only the R that goes upto 200mph though - not that our golfs will ever to this but it’s scene points to have 200mph showing 🙈😂

Haha fair enough I just st want the colour display and blue needles

paddeemusio I got a gti(I think) colour 3D dash with correct front face somewhere if you need. Think it goes Upto 180 and got red needles. Getting the blue needles is easy enough but unless you know someone who can code the dials it’s not easy/possible to do the swap. The newer platform VW’s use very different software that is very hard to play around with so specialist stuff is needed. If you want the dials (and I can find them) let me know and I’ll sort you out a good deal 👍

Nice thanks. They’re not the blue light ones are they? I like the white light dials as they look so much cleaner

paddeemusio I don’t know to be honest 😂 I think they are red lights but not sure 🤔 Defo red needles but not sure about back lights

paddeemusio the back part came from a MK6 Golf R with colour fis then the front housing was from a MK3 Scirocco with larger fis frame (standard one cuts off about 2mm in height so total mileage isn’t displayed quite right)

Cliff Crabtree nah, that ain’t a good idea 😱

Hello mate, I did all the hardware stuff but haven’t a clue on how to do the coding so left it to a specialist to do for me. The immobiliser chip in the key needed to be replaced and coded to the cluster and immobiliser but it all worked in the end

Adrian Shoemark switch back led bulbs and modified bulb holder to accept the switchbacks. Also needs to rewire the indicators to run into the boot

Murat Akçamur I got the cable from www.carsystems.eu/ I cant find the exact cable I used listed anymore so guess they have updated it. If you contact them directly they will be able to help. They are really helpful and have always helped me out when I needed 👍

@@MateyGuv Dou you know how can i name it? Thanks for help

Instrument cluster connector converter?

Murat Akçamur I think that’s the one, you need to talk to them though. Just make sure it’s the right cable for your instrument cluster

Only a roll up.....unfortunately 😬

Doc. FunkBlack if wired right same rings will do side and break light light - have a look at my other videos to see how I wired the cluster to do it

This video is how I wired it - if your USA your lamp holders are different so be carful. You guys don’t have amber indicators do you? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jSzAZsj2JWc.html

Doc. FunkBlack search eBay for led dimmer 12v and you’ll find them 👍

@@MateyGuv Thanks mate, I was searching for keyword 'variable potentiometer' and nothing like that showed up.